A Taste of Coastal Texas

Texas State Highway 35 runs from Houston to Corpus Christi, keeping a slight distance from the Gulf of Mexico. A short trip along the highway can reveal scenes and character that you can't get along the interstate. Expect to see skyscrapers and shacks, sprawl and space, and everything in between - and this is only a small slice of what there is to see in Texas.
This itinerary is written for a three-day weekend trip, Friday through Sunday, especially about the second Saturday in June. Several of the listed attractions are available only about that time. Of course, by picking only a few of the listed items, a traveller can follow the full route in under a day.

While some locations are fairly remote, you'll never be too far from civilization. You'll need to use a private car (there are plenty of rental locations at either endpoint), so just make sure to stop for gas when you near a quarter tank. Aside from a basic road safety kit, you'll be able to meet any need that comes up with roadside resources. The most remote place on SH-35 is less so than some places on Route 66.

If you aren't already in the Houston area, it's closer to fly into Houston Hobby Airport (HOU) - it borders SH-35.

While the "headwaters" of SH-35 are in Mason Park, on Bray's Bayou, safety, sprawl, standards, and one-way streets limit the practical starting point to SH-35 (Telephone Rd.) at I-45 (Gulf Freeway).

Houston to Pearland

Begin by heading south on SH-35 (here known as Telephone Rd.) from I-45. You'll quickly pass IH-610 and through Houston's Golfcrest neighborhood. This area was considered posh in the 1920s, but has since fallen and is beginning to gentrify. While there is little of specific historical merit along the road, the sights are worth seeing.

See

After you pass Hobby Airport and the urbanization fades, you'll pass pastures and feed stores before you even reach BW-8 (the Beltway). You will notice an abrupt rising of buildings again as you enter Pearland.

• William P. Hobby Airport

  address: Airport Blvd.
  Home of Southwest Airlines, the second largest airport in Houston.

• Old Settlers Cemetery

• Rice DryerNow-defunct facility where rice was dried and hulled, a standing homage to one of the three staple crops of the area (the other two being sugar and cotton).

Eat

If you started in the morning, you might already be ready for something to eat. Among many great places to breakfast are the Busy Bee Cafe, if you have time to sit down and enjoy yourself, or Sonic if you're in a hurry.

• Busy Bee Cafe

  phone: +1 281-485-3335
  address: 4009 Broadway St, Pearland
  Homestyle country cookin' & the best pies in Pearland.

• Sonic Drive-in

  phone: +1 281-485-4427
  address: 2519 S Main St, Pearland
  Generic fast food, but if you must stop here, try a vanilla Dr. Pepper.

Pearland to Brazoria

Take 521 after Angelton, cross the Brazos.

See

• Brazos RiverOne of Texas' most important rivers, lending its name to one of the first state capitals, Washington-on-the-Brazos.

• Brazoria Public School Building

  phone: +1 979-798-1414
  address: 214 W Smith St, Brazoria
  Depression-era school building, recovered and rebuilt into a community center. Houses some museum exhibits, classrooms, and community theater.

• Brazoria County Historical Museum

  phone: +1 979-864-1208
  address: 100 E. Cedar St., Angleton
  Housed in the 1897 Brazoria County Courthouse, there are wonderful exhibits from across the county.

Brazoria to Bay City

Take SH-36 north to West Columbia, then SH-35 South (left) to Bay City.

See

• West Columbia Museum

  phone: +1 979-345-6125
  address: 247 East Brazos, West Columbia
  West Columbia was the first capital of the Republic of Texas. See related exhibits at this branch of the museum.

• Varner-Hogg Plantation State Historic Site

  phone: +1 979-345-4656
  address: 1702 N. 13th St., West Columbia
  The historic plantation site of the Hogg family. Activities include an interpretive tour, picnicking, walking, and seasonal festivals.

• South Texas Project

  phone: +1 361-972-3611
  address: Wadsworth
  Tours are not available, and it's a ways off SH-35, but how many times do you get to see an operating nuclear plant?

• Matagorda County Birding Nature Center

  phone: +1 979-245-3336
  See a vast number of birds and variety of wildlife in nature. Bring sunscreen and bug spray!

• Riverside Park

  phone: +1 979-245-0340
  address: 7330 FM-2668, Bay City
  park on the Colorado River.

Eat

If you didn't catch lunch in Brazoria, there's a couple more places not far down the road in Old Ocean.

• Hickory Barn

  phone: +1 979-647-2276
  address: 6836 S FM 524, Old Ocean
  Local barbecue, makes a great lunch.

• Fresh Catch

  phone: +1 979-647-1062
  address: 6836 S FM 524, Old Ocean
  Tolerable seafood.

Bay City has several decent places too.

• Diamond S Restaurant

  phone: +1 979-245-4846
  address: 3608 Avenue F, Bay City
  Family-style eating.

• Tk's

  phone: +1 979-244-8833
  address: 1601 7th St, Bay City
  Family dining.

• Main Street Coffee Bar

  phone: +1 979-245-4105
  address: 1822 7th St, Bay City
  Coffee and snacks.

Bay City to Palacios

Take SH-35 South to Palacios. Stay on Business 35 (1st St., then Main St., then follow it right). If you've been visiting most of the listed attractions, it will probably be coming up on dinner time. Take a couple of hours for a good meal, walk along the water, and look around at some of the history.

See

• City by the Sea Museum

  phone: +1 361-972-1148
  address: 401 Commerce St., Palacios
  Housed in the R. J. Hill building,

• Luther Hotel

  address: 408 S. Bay Blvd., Palacios
  "The Palace of Palacios", originally the Bay View Hotel, has been a fixture of the community since 1903. Check in to see its history, including movie stars, war heroes, and the pier.

• Tres Palacios Bay Shrimping Fleet

  phone: +1 361-972-5556
  address: 1602 Main St., Palacios
  Palacios is known as the "Shrimp Capital of Texas," see the fleet that gives this reputation.

• Texas Baptist Encampment

  phone: +1 361-972-2717
  address: Main St. at Welch Ave.
  Founded in 1906 as the "Baptist Young Peoples Union," this camp is still in operation.

Eat

• Hotel Blessing Coffee Shop

  phone: +1 361-588-6623
  address: 128 10th St, Blessing
  The restaurant entrance is on the side, if you come in the front you'll find the hotel lobby. While you'll pass Blessing before you get to Palacios, the breakfast might be worth the fifteen minute backtrack.

• Outrigger Restaurant

  phone: +1 361-972-1479
  address: 515 Commerce St, Palacios
  Local seafood and more. They'll probably have live music on Thursdays and Fridays, and most Saturdays, out back in the barn.

• Lighthouse Seafood

  phone: +1 361-972-1231
  address: 9 8th St, Palacios
  Local seafood on the water.

• Marisela's Cafe

  phone: +1 361-972-0734
  address: 906 Main St, Palacios

Sleep

• Courtyard Houston Pearland

  phone: +1 713 413-0500
  address: 112000 Broadway Suite 2000
  Ideal place for meetings, weddings, and banquets. Within walking distance to food, grocery, and public transit including transit across the bay to Palo Alto and Menlo Park.

• Luther Hotel

  phone: +1 361-972-2312
  address: 408 S. Bay Blvd., Palacios
  While there are several places to get a room in town, you won't get a better local feel than the Luther.

• Hotel Blessing

  phone: +1 361-588-9579
  address: 128 10th St, Blessing
  A restored hotel. It's about 15 minutes back north on SH-35. The front door is the hotel lobby.

• Moonlight Bay Bed & Breakfast

  phone: +1 361-972-2232
  address: 506 S. Bay Blvd., Palacios
  Waterfront rooms in a hundred year old home.

• Peaceful Pelican Bed & Breakfast

  address: 317 East Bay Blvd., Palacios
  Upscale, restored 1910 waterfront home, bay views, luxury rooms, wireless Internet, opened 2008.

Palacios to Seadrift

Get up, grab breakfast (you might consider heading back up north to Blessing to eat at the Hotel), and get on the road. The Half Moon Reef Lighthouse was moved from Palacios to Port Lavaca several years ago for preservation. It's appropriate that you'll pass right by it.
Seadrift is well worth the detour, though getting there can be an adventure. Follow SH-35 south again. FM-185 makes a staggered cross of SH-35 a few miles down the road. Take FM-185 south (left). You'll pass through Long Mott (if you even notice it), and find yourself deep in the middle of nowhere. Press on! You'll eventually pass The Captain's Quarters on the left, and come up Main St. Take it south (right) to reach the water.
If you happen to come into town on the weekend of the second Saturday in June, you're in for a treat. Shrimpfest is held on Friday and Saturday night, and the Texas Water Safari finishers begin to come in Sunday evening. Both of these events are at the pavilion in Bayfront Park. If you stay for the festivities, you might need to spend a second night on the road. Be aware that lodgings in Seadrift on that weekend are usually completely booked a year in advance, and plan accordingly.
You might otherwise consider chartering a fishing trip on the bay.

See

• Half Moon Reef Lighthouse

  address: SH-35, Port Lavaca

• Seadrift Bayfront Park

  address: Bay St.
  Explore Seadrift's Bayfront Park, go fishing, or just sit under the pavilion in the breeze.

• Seadrift MuralsScattered about town, though several are in Bayfront Park.

• Shrimpfest

  phone: +1 361-785-2251 (ext 21)
  address: Bayfront Park
  Seadrift's annual festival commemorating one of the biggest industries of the area. June.

• Texas Water Safari finish

  address: Bayfront Park
  Billed as the world's toughest boat race, it finishes at the flagpole in Seadrift. June.

Eat

• Harbor Inn Restaurant

  phone: +1 361-785-2397
  address: 102 W. Bay Ave., Seadrift
  Great spot for a local lunch. The chicken fried steak comes recommended, along with the seafood.

• Kookies Cafe

  phone: +1 361-785-4720
  address: 416 S Main St, Seadrift

• El Comal

  phone: +1 361-785-5083
  address: 322 S. Main St., Seadrift
  Mexican fare, breakfast served all day.

• Barkett's

  phone: +1 361-785-2441
  address: 321 W. Broadway, Seadrift

Do

• Bay Flats Guide Services

  address: 391 Bayside Drive Seadrift
  Fishing and waterfowl hunting.

• Bay Rat Guide Service

  phone: +1 361-785-6708
  address: Seadrift

• Redfish Roundup Guide Service

  phone: +1 361-785-4038
  Capt. Ranier Brigham

• Fishin' Tales Guide Service

  phone: +1 281-313-3474
  address: 602 N 4th St Seadrift

Sleep

• Seadrifter Inn

  phone: +1 361-785-2031
  address: 106 W Bay Ave, Seadrift
  A local inn on the bay. All rooms tend to be booked a year in advance on the weekend of the second Saturday in June (Shrimpfest and Water Safari weekend), so call ahead.

• Captain's Quarters

  phone: +1 361-785-4982
  address: 201 SH-185 N.
  All rooms tend to be booked a year in advance on the weekend of the second Saturday in June (Shrimpfest and Water Safari weekend), so call ahead.

Seadrift to Rockport

Get out of Seadrift in the morning (unless you dally and get some morning fishing in). Take FM-185 north (left) to SH-35, Then SH-35 south (right) through Tivoli (don't blink, you might miss it!) to Rockport. Rockport began as a cattle packing town about the time of the civil war, but became a fishing village in the 1920s. Its primary industries now are fishing (and shrimping) and tourism (and recreation). You'll be able to rent a jetski or sailboat, swim, and explore the town.

See

• Guadalupe RiverYou'll cross this river just before Tivoli. You can hop out and look at the river, but beware of gators!

• Aransas National Wildlife Refuge

  phone: +1 361-286-3559
  address: 1 Wildlife Circle, Austwell
  See a huge variety of wildlife, including the Texas Whooping Cranes (at least in the early spring).

• Rockport Seafair

  address: 404 Broadway, Rockport
  If you come through Rockport at the right time (early October), you'll catch the Seafair. There's a whole mess of food, dancing, boat races of all sorts, and even a crab race.

• Rockport Beach Park

  phone: +1 361-729-2213 ext 134
  These beaches have a reputation for being clean and safe.

Eat

• Duck Inn Restaurant

  phone: +1 361-729-6663
  address: 701 Broadway, Rockport

• Boiling Pot Restaurant

  phone: +1 361-729-6972
  address: 201 S. Fulton Beach Rd., Fulton
  Seafood.

• Waffle Cone Company

  phone: +1 361-729-3613
  address: 2722 SH-35 North
  Dessert!

• Los Comales Mexican Restaurant

  phone: +1 361-729-3952
  address: 431 SH-35, Rockport

Rockport to Corpus Christi

Follow SH-35 South one last time. It will take you to straight to Corpus (which, despite being Latin for "body", is regularly used as the city's nickname).

See

• Texas State Aquarium

  phone: +1 361-881-1200
  address: 2710 N. Shoreline Blvd., Corpus Christi
  See water-related exhibits and creatures. You can even work with a dolphin trainer if you contact them ahead of time (and spend a lot of money).

• USS Lexington

  address: 2914 N. Shoreline, Corpus Christi
  World War II aircraft carrier become museum. See naval life, the ship, and aircraft complement.

• Corpus Christi HooksMinor league baseball team play during the season. They are the AA affiliate of the Houston Astros.

Eat

• Water Street Oyster Bar

  phone: +1 361-881-9448
  address: 309 N Water St
  Gulf seafood fresh daily. Nice place to eat in the marina area of CC. Kind of loud.

Sleep

You might need to catch up on sleep after seeing the sights in town.

• Best Western Marina Grand Hotel

  phone: +1 361-883-5111
  address: 300 North Shoreline Blvd., Corpus Christi
  This 12-story tower on the marina is out-of-the-ordinary for the Best Western chain. Nice views up and down the coast from most rooms, easy access to CC downtown. Free breakfast in roof restaurant.

• Omni Corpus Christi Hotel Bayfront Tower

  address: 900 North Shoreline Blvd., Corpus Christi
  In Corpus Christi's downtown Marina District. The AAA Four-Diamond hotel offers sweeping views of the Corpus Christi Bay, award-winning dining at the Republic of Texas Bar and Grill and complimentary high speed wireless Internet access.

• Omni Corpus Christi Hotel Marina Tower

  address: 707 North Shoreline Blvd., Corpus Christi
  In Corpus Christi's downtown Marina District. This luxurious hotel is the perfect location for a vacation getaway. The hotel is ideally located near the Texas State Aquarium, the USS Lexington and offers easy access to deep sea fishing, sailing and jet skiing.

• Christy Estates SuitesFeaturing long term lodging and spa rooms.

• Hawthorn Suites by Wyndham Corpus Christi

  phone: +1 361-854-3400
  address: 1442 South Padre Island Dr.

• Las Brisas Condominiums

  phone: +1 361-883-4371
  address: 4000 Surfside Blvd, Corpus Christi
  Right on the beach, with a breath-taking view of the bay and the city. Tennis courts, a swimming pool. Close to downtown and the marina, next to the South Texas Aquarium and the Lexington Aircraft Carrier. One-, two-, and three-bedroom condos for a lease of at least three months.

You can fly out of the airport, or take I-35 north to San Antonio, then I-10 back to Houston. Or go back north on SH-35 and see what you missed the first time.