AncudChiloé Island from Puerto Montt. It's a relatively nice town with a port and the usual small town attractions.
All buses to Ancud from the mainland stop in Puerto Montt. The bus from Puerto Montt crosses over to Chiloé by ferry and costs CLP$4000-5000. The journey takes about 2 hours. Buses depart frequently from Puerto Montt until around 21:00.
Fort San AntonioA small Spanish fort with a nice lookout over the Bay of Ancud.
address: Errázuriz 227A small museum introducing Chiloé's churches. There are displays demonstrating the various joins used in building the wood churches without nails, as well as cutaway models of many of the island's churches.
Museum of Ancudaddress: Libertad 370Informative displays about the history of Chiloé. Relatively small but worth a visit.
Penguin toursThe most popular excursion from Ancud is a visit to the nearby penguin colony, where in the right time of year it is possible to see Magellanic and Humboldt penguins nesting side by side. They begin returning to the islands to nest around September, with numbers peaking in December-January. They begin to leave once the chicks are hatched in late fall. The colony is 28 km from the town and can be reached by the public bus (Mar Brava). It leaves from the garage at 06:45 and 11:45, returning at 13:00 and 17:00. From there you can hire a boat to take you to the islands just offshore where the penguins nest. There are many tour agencies and hostels offering tours from Ancud. These tours generally include only transport and the boat trip, but sometimes add in hikes and other scenic stops. Make sure you know what you're getting.
phone: +56 9 93792481address: Camino a Chepu Km 13,2Eco Tourism Chepu Adventures. Kayak while visiting the charming Valley of the Dead Trees at Chepu Wetlands, an overwhelming landscape of sunken dead logs and nature. Kayak at dawn. Trek to penguin colony. Eco-camping with alternative energy (wind) and solar hot showers. Hosting in suites for 2 persons (cabin type) with private bathroom and bathroom included. Adults only. Ecofriendly activities as kayak at dawn, trekking, bird & mammal watching.
Quepucaaddress: Pudeto 277A women's cooperative that sells local handicrafts. Mostly knitwear and yarn, but somewhat different than what you'll find at the local markets.
- retro's pub at Maipú 615 is the best place for completos (sandwiches, try the ones with palta = guacamole), lunch, pizza, tea/coffee, dinner (tasty meat and fish, and great desserts and kuchen made by Marcela) and a drink with friends. Very frequented by the local population of all ages. Open from 11:00 until 02:00. The owners also organize curanto (native chilote meal baked under the earth) for groups on weekends at the beach.
- Casamar is a superb restaurant and bar of modern architecture overviewing the sea, at night with a big video screen, good music and fantastic food and drinks.
- La Candela across from the Plaza de Armas at Libertad 599 is a fantastic restaurant. Don't visit Ancud without stopping in for either lunch or dinner or dessert (or all three).
- Pedersen Salon de Te Down the road from La Candela there is a small cafe which also serves sandwiches and desserts. The native dessert derived from European influences called "Kuchen" (also the word for cake in German) can be sampled at its best here. Inexpensive.
- Kuranton At the port, nice and inexpensive local where you can eat the famous Curanto meal.
Close to the mole in Arturo Prat street (red-white entrance, second house behind the big blue one) is a fisherman's pub. It looks a bit shabby but the fish dish with potatoes, salad and bread for CLP$2000 was good. (Feb 2012)
El Chilote Menaphone: +56065625835address: Pudeto 318Decent Chilean food and drink.
Retro's Pubphone: +56 65 626410The place for Pisco Sour or other cocktails at night. And for the next morning a good address for black coffee. Open from 11:00-02:00. Good music and TV screen.
CasaMarphone: +56 65 655670A local restaurant, pub and event center (dance floor). It's the place to celebrate weddings or New Year's Eve. At the corner between Errazuriz and Costanera.
Cafe Arte Nerudianophone: +56 65620820address: calle Maipu 650, second floorCosy and arty coffeeshop/bar with balcony on the second floor of a wooden gallery in the centre of town. Wifi is available and the owners, a Chilean/Belgian couple speak a variety of languages. The cafe has a permanent art exhibition. Specialities are the delicious pisco sour and several other cocktails, sandwiches and cakes. The atmosphere is very intimate and romantic at night.
- Hostel TerraMar, downtown and up a steep hill. No breakfast.
Hostal LluhayNear the docks at 458 Lord Cochrane Ave. Sits high from the road to provide wonderful views of the quaint city and harbor. Breakfast included. There is internet and a sitting room with a grand piano and traditional decoration. Many lodging options. Inexpensive.
Hostal Mundo NuevoCostanera (S. Allende) 748. A very nice and clean hostel with a views at the sea. they speak English, German and Spanish.
phone: +56 65 624847address: Anibal Pinto 1318Cabin-esque single/double rooms with simple breakfast and kitchen is available at request in the owner’s place downstairs. The owners are really lovely (and Lorenzo the dog is quite friendly), and can recommend you good places to visit. Wifi included. From CLP$7,000 pp (July 2012). It's a bit removed from the center but it’s only 3 houses down from the bus terminal Municipal (ask the driver).
Hospedaje Kreiselphone: +56 65 628015address: Prat 350Family run; no WiFi.
Hospedaje Kristianphone: +56 84579209address: Pudeto 450Run by a lady, friendly, clean, with breakfast. Price for a single room CLP$8000. With TV, no WiFi. (Feb 2012)
phone: +56 65 622106address: Los Carrera 855Backpacker hostel located across the street from the Cruz del Sur bus station. Clean dorms with comfortable beds and shared bathrooms, free WiFi, breakfast included, laundry service (CLP$1500 per kilo), friendly English-speaking staff.