Bahir Dar
Get in
By plane
Bahir Dar Ginbot Haya AirportEthiopian Airlines operates scheduled flights every day from Addis Ababa () and Lalibela (). There are three to five direct 1-hour flights per day from and to Addis Ababa. Multi-stops flights to Lalibela connect to Gondar () and Axum () in the north.
In September 2015, adult 1-way direct trip from Addis Ababa were around 3091 birr ($148) for foreigners, or 1163 birr ($56) for Ethiopians and residents (or those who have flown Ethiopian internationally - note that you can get the discounted prices by simply booking a ticket, for instance a refundable Nairobi to Addis fare, for the near future).
By car
- Cairo ← Gondar ← N TAH 4 S → Addis Ababa → Cape Town
It's 170 km south of Gondar via road 3, and 314 km east of Lalibela via Woleta.
By bus
The city is connected by daily buses from Addis Ababa and Gondar. Many private minibuses also run from Gondar and Addis Ababa. They often do not leave from the bus station but are instead arranged through your hotel or by local touts (who will find you before you find them!). The minibuses are more expensive but faster, especially from Addis Ababa. Try Selam bus or Sky bus for a more comfortable (and potentially safer) ride.From Gondar, minibuses leave from a bus station near Azezo (July 2019) in the south of the town. You can take a local minibus to reach Azezo (10 birr) or a bajaj (200 birr). From Gondar to Bahir Dar, a bus should cost 85 birr and take around 3 hours.
To get to Bahir Dar from Lalibela by bus, take a dawn bus to Gashina (about two hours south of Lalibela) and change there to the Woldia - Bahir Dar bus, which passes through Gashina around 10:00. To get from Bahir Dar to Lalibela, take the dawn Bahir Dar - Woldia bus and catch the last Lalibela bus at Gashena, which passes through around 15:00.
By boat
A ferry service runs between Bahir Dar and Gorgora via Dek Island and villages on the lakeside.Get around
Bajajs (three-wheel rick-shaws) are the most common form of transportation in the city. There are also blue minibuses, but few still exist as means to get around town. Bajajs are inexpensive and cost no more than two birr per line of road and 30-50 birr for a private charter.
See
Lake Tana MonasteriesSome of the world's oldest churches and monasteries are on islands in Lake Tana. There are plenty of boat tours available to the monasteries (entrance at every monastery is 100 birr as of 2016); these range from 2 to 12 hours in length and can be booked through your hotel, by contacting a guide directly on WhatsApp, or by one of the many touts in the city. They can organise a boat tour for half day and the other half a trip to the Blue Nile Falls. It should cost no more than 400 birr per person, however you can have it much cheaper by chartering your own boat and only visit the islands you want to see and also getting a local minibus to the waterfall (as of 2019, 1500 birr seems like a good price for a custom, private half-day tour for 2 on Lake Tana with a well-rated guide). In some of these monasteries, women are not allowed to enter. Be cautious and aware of the traditions and rules of the Ethiopian Orthodox church when you visit. These churches are unique to Ethiopia, but they tend to be expensive and the tours are overrated. The boat trip on the lake is nice, but there are better examples of rural churches elsewhere in Ethiopia in a more pleasant and less touristy environment. As part of a boat tour, you may also swing by the 'Head of the Blue Nile', where the river flows out of the lake. There's a good chance of spotting a hippo or two pop up their heads. Otherwise, it's nothing too spectacular.
Blue Nile FallsA portion of the river is diverted to a hydro-power dam, and the flow is not as huge as it once was - the falls used to get up to 400 m wide in the rainy season - but it's a very nice sight, no less – smaller than Niagara or Victoria Falls, but amazingly scenic (late in the dry season, it might be less impressive). The drive from Bahir Dar is about 60-90 mins, much of it on a bad gravel road through scattered villages. If you take the bus, ignore anyone in the village who insists that the last bus back to Bahir Dar will be full and wants you to pay them to hold a seat, or that the last bus has already left but they can offer you an amazingly expensive taxi ride. There are plenty of buses back to Bahir Dar, the last one leaves at 17:00 or later, and the bus conductor will find a seat for you! You can also arrange for a tour to the falls through your hotel. Also ignore anyone insisting you need a guide to find your way. Take a sneak peak on a map before you go and you will be fine. Plenty of locals along the way will also gladly point you in the right direction. If you decide to visit during rainy season, be aware that paths are very muddy (deep mud) and bring adequate shoes. A nice alternative to the standard day trip, especially if you'd like to experience sunset and sunrise at the falls, is an overnight stay at Blue Nile Camping, right at the top of the waterfall.
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address: Gonder RoadHuge monument with waterfalls going to Blue Nile. Include a museum with pictures.
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Palace of Emperor Haile Selassie & Viewpoint over Bahir Dar/Blue Nile
address: Bezawit RoadBahir Dar grew around a Jesuit settlement, founded in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, from which time the Pedro Páez building dates. One of Emperor Haile Selassie's palaces is near the city, and the Emperor considered moving the national capital to the town. The palace is an impressive architectural work of its time. Facing Lake Tana it provides a beautiful, picturesque scene of the Blue Nile.
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Kidus Giorgis church
address: Giorgis Road crossing Lake Street
Hornbill TreesIn the center of town, there is a small row of trees that attracts around 30 or so hornbills every night. Grab a drink or dinner at one of the places on the first floor across the street and enjoy the view.
Do
- Cycling Bikes can be rented at Ghion Hotel.
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Buy
The local speciality is small footstools covered in goat hide. Find them along the road that runs from Ghion hotel to the main highway. They can apparently be "unstuffed" for travel.
There are ATMs that accept Mastercards & Visa cards are at Dashen Bank.
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Market
address: Giorgis roadA big and colorful market. The second largest in Ethiopia, after Mercato in Addis Ababa. -
Goat skin handicraft products shops
address: Giorgis roadAround twenty shops selling goat skin seats and other things.
Eat
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Checheho Cultural Restaurant
address: Lake RdNot just a restaurant, an excellent cultural club with azmari music and dance performances, one of the best nightspots in town. -
Lake Shore Resort
address: Lake StreetIt has good food and amazing views of the lake from the garden. The foiled fish has a good reputation. -
Desset Restaurant
address: Lake StreetA new restaurant that has OK food and a beautiful view of the lake. Highly recommended to enjoy a beer here while watching the sun set. - Azewa Hotel has some of the best fish goulash in the country and is inexpensive.
- Tana Restaurant serves fabulous fish dishes cheaply.
- Al-Hanan Muslim Restaurant, near the Dalot Pension, serves huge and tasty mutton dishes, even during Lent. Also a good place for an Ethiopian coffee ceremony. The owners are exceedingly nice and don't charge tourists extra.
Hotel Bahir DarCosy outdoor area and inexpensive food.
WaWi Pizzeria & RestaurantSecond floor restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Serves pretty good Western food.
Drink
Balageru Cultural ClubMeals, tej and azmari music.
- There are many cultural night clubs throughout the city center.
- There are a few Western music clubs, with Dream House and a bar above Friendship Cafe the most popular.
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Wude Coffee
address: Lake StreetWood and stone building. Nice for a quiet drink. Also serves Ethiopian food. -
Hot Spot
address: inside the big tower “Grand Resort and Spa”
Sleep
- Koriftu Resort is a nice getaway after roughing it around Ethiopia. One of the nicest resorts in Ethiopia with a complimentary massage for every night's stay. Good, but expensive, restaurant and a nice pool.
- Dalot Pension, near the bus station, singles from 20 birr, modern, clean and convenient, best value in town.
- Tana Pension. Rooms from US$2.50, the food is marvelous.
Hotel Bahir DarBackpacker hotel with a terrace in the middle and a good restaurant attached. Beware of Muhammed, a nice boy who hangs there and tries to hustle you overpriced tours.
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Bin Anbessa Hotel
address: Lake StreetLarge hotel with restaurant. Was being renovated in 2013. Friendly staff. Very good, by Ethiopian standards, free Wi-Fi. -
phone: +251 58 226 4094 (reception), +251 58 220 20 28 (office), +251 91 834 1189 (mobile)address: Beg TeraOK with old rooms. View on the lake on the 3-5th flood. Free Wi-Fi. They can organize for you the boat trip and car trip to the Blue Nile Falls. Festive area (noise). Not to be confused with “Blue Nile Resort Hotel”.
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address: Lake Street, next to Stadium
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Papyrus Hotel
address: Giorgis road crossing Arba Meter roadMid-range hotel with swimming pool. -
phone: +251 58 222 2206, +251 58 222 2207, +251 58 220 0554, +251 93 598 1950 (mobile)address: Lake StreetA luxury resort on the shore of the lake. Not to be confused with “Blue Nile Hotel”.
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Ours Guest House
address: Gioris RdClean place with hot shower and double rooms. You will need to add extra 50 birr for the breakfast for a second person, as of July 2019.
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Blue Nile Camping
phone: +251 97 760 5050Great option if you'd like to see the falls at sunset and/or sunrise. Don't expect anything super clean or comfortable. Freshly cooked meals served upon request – dinner was very delicious – as well as beer, coffee, etc., so you don't have to prepare very much. They can also arrange for luggage transfer, so you don't have to carry everything from the park entrance (15 min walk + short boat ride).
Stay safe
You may encounter some hustlers around the shore of Lake Tana to get you rent a boat they may get a kick-back for. The boats on Lake Tana that take you to visit the monasteries have fixed rates. Make sure the self-appointed "brokers" won't get you charged a jacked up fee for the boats.