Baltimore/Inner Harbor
The Inner Harbor is the heart of Baltimore, and the standard-bearer of its industrial and maritime heritage. In the 1950s, the area became an industrial wasteland and the buildings were eventually replaced with parkland for public uses and events. In the decades that followed continued investment in the area has renewed the harbor. It now is home to the lion's share of Baltimore's tourist attractions, and accordingly, its tourists.
Understand
The Inner Harbor's relatively shallow waters have long played second fiddle to Baltimore's deep water harbors in the south of the city. Unable to accommodate large freighters, the port received light freight and passenger traffic, but even in these categories, the Inner Harbor lagged behind the busier docks at Fell's Point. Consequently, despite its central location, the Inner Harbor always remained underdeveloped, and more than a little seedy.
In the 1960s, particularly after the 1968 riots following the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr that devastated the city, the Inner Harbor sunk into decline with the rest of the city, leaving the waterfront dominated by abandoned warehouses, deteriorating industrial buildings, and open grassy areas for the occasional festival.
In 1980, in what was considered nothing but hopeless folly, Mayor D'Alesandro Jr. came up with an expensive plan to revitalize the Inner Harbor, starting with the construction of the waterfront Harborplace, a big, attractive, indoor mall filled with shops and cafeteria dining. Shortly thereafter the city built the National Aquarium and Maryland Science Center, and lo and behold, the plan was a spectacular success, and the Inner Harbor took off and hasn't looked back.
Today, the Inner Harbor is the city centerpiece, Maryland's number one tourist destination, and the single biggest economic boon for the city. The views across the harbor and its ships towards the old Domino Sugar Factory in the south and the skyscrapers, including the Maryland World Trade Center, in the north are the icons of the city. Restaurants and big hotels line the waterfront, and tourists fill the streets, promenade, and piers. The Inner Harbor is less popular with locals, however, so you would do well to get out a bit to other neighborhoods like Fell's Point and Midtown to get a better feel for the local culture!
Get in
By car
The most direct route to the Inner Harbor area from outside the city would be from I-95. Take exit 53, which dumps you on to Howard St. Parking can be messy and/or expensive, and garages will be the only option available. If you want to park on-street, you could try Fells Point to the east, which will leave you with about a 15-20 minute walk to the Aquarium.
By light rail
Light rail lines stop at Camden Yards, running north through Downtown and Lexington Market, and on to Penn Station; south to BWI airport.
By Circulator bus
The Circulator has two relevant routes. The orange line will take you east on Pratt almost to the edge of Fells Point, with a quick stop in Little Italy, before returning west on Lombard and running to the University of Maryland, Baltimore. The purple line runs south on Light St to Federal Hill and north on Calvert St to reach Charles St through Mt Vernon and Midtown.
By water taxi
Ed Kane's Water Taxi, +1 410 563-3901, stops at the Rusty Scupper, the Science Center, Harbor Place, the Aquarium, Pier 5, and Harbor East, with connections to popular tourist stops in South Baltimore, like Fort McHenry, as wells piers in Fells Point and Canton to the east. Day passes, adults: $9.00, kids under 10: $4.00. May–December only.
By bus
Visitors to the city don't really use the bus system, but if you are feeling intrepid, there are a handful of useful routes.
#11, if you pick it up on Pratt St on the harbor, will take you east to the heart of Fells Point, and then on to Canton. If you take it from Lombard St (one block north of the harbor), it will take you north up Charles St through the heart of Midtown and on to Johns Hopkins' main campus. The northern route returns to the Inner Harbor from Midtown via Cathedral Ave.
#1 runs south on Light St through Federal Hill and on to Fort McHenry via Fort Ave.
See
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phone: +1 410 244-1900address: 800 Key HighwayThe most eclectic and interesting collection of contemporary art from non-professional artists, with many works of beauty, some of paranoia, and a fair share of sheer obsessive personality disorder!
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phone: +1 410 385-5188address: 601 President StHoused in the historic President Street Station, the Civil War Museum is a look at Baltimore's vibrant and important role in the mid-19th-century American Civil War. The museum is staffed solely by volunteers. It is part of the national park system.
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phone: +1 410 396-3453At the piers of Inner Harbor are a collection of four different historic ships from Baltimore's maritime legacy, which have been decommissioned and converted into museums that you can tour on your own. Ticket prices range from $8-16 and are based on how many ships you want to tour (one, two or four), with discounts available for seniors and children. Admission to the lighthouse is always free.
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USS Constellation
phone: +1 410 539-1797The last all-sail warship built by the U.S. Navy and the only Civil War-era vessel still afloat. Pay attention to the ship's schedule for the day; Civil War reenactors may be on hand to demonstrate shooting a cannon! USS TorskA World War II-era submarine.
Lightship ChesapeakeA floating, mobile lighthouse painted in a vibrant red color; it was refitted for combat duty during World War II before returning to lighthouse purposes.
USCGC TaneyA Coast Guard cutter that survived the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor.
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Seven Foot Knoll LighthouseThe oldest surviving screw-pile lighthouse on the Chesapeake Bay.
Ice Rink at Baltimore's Inner Harbor
Christmas Village in Baltimore
Do
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phone: +1 443 514-5900Guided and self-guided three-mile tours departing from the city's Visitor Center, and covering territory through Downtown, and historic Jonestown, Little Italy, and Fells Point. Free guided tours, 1 May-2 November, departing 10AM.
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phone: +1 410-327-8378address: S Ann StA swashbuckling adventure on a pirate ship in the Inner Harbor! As you might expect, this is very popular with younger kids.
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Port Discovery Children's Museum
phone: +1 410-727-8120address: 35 Market Pl
Events
Baltimore Book Festival3-day book festival with over 100 exhibitors/booksellers, author signings, cooking demos and other events and activities held in late September at the Inner Harbor in downtown Baltimore (it used to in Mt Vernon) to celebrate reading.
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address: Baltimore Convention CenterNot quite as big as the Comic-Con held in San Diego, this comic book convention has grown since its humbler beginnings in 2000. It hosts the Harvey Awards presentation ceremony, honoring the best comic book professionals as voted by their peers.
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address: 1 West Pratt St, Baltimore Convention CenterA fandom convention first held in 2013. BronyCon is a convention dedicated to the fandom of the TV series My Little Pony: Friendship is Magic. It attracts thousands of people every summer and its attendance has grown ever since it first was held in Baltimore from 8,400 in 2013 to 10,011 in 2015. This convention is similar to Otakon in that people dress up as various characters (known as cosplaying) from not just My Little Pony: Friendship is Magic but from various other pop culture such as anime, comic books, movies, TV shows.
Light City BaltimoreAnnual festival featuring light art installations and free concerts, held in late March/early April. Free admission. Check website for exact dates.
Maryland DeathfestFor those who enjoy a good headbang, this annual metal festival is held at the end of May. Concerts take place at Rams Head Live! and the Baltimore Soundstage.
Music
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address: 20 Market PlConcert venue for rock bands, comedians, and many more.
Film
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Landmark Theatre
phone: +1 410 244-6636address: 645 S President StThis is a really nice movie theater for independent and foreign films, with things like comfy leather seats, no cell phone reception in the theater, wine, cocktails, crab cakes. Since they are serving liquor, they are able to keep the ticket prices down: $10.50, matinee: $8.
Buy
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phone: +1 410 323-1000address: 200 E Pratt StBroken up into 3 nearby buildings. Essentially the same stuff that you would find in a normal big mall, but still decent. Expects chain shops and the occasional restaurant such as: Ann Taylor, Aldo Shoes, Levi's, Banana Republic, Bath & Body Works, Brooks Brothers, Cheesecake Factory, Nine West, Coach, Five Guys Burgers, Foot Locker, Gamestop, Gap and Gap Kids, Godiva, H&M, Urban Outfitters, Victoria Secret, etc. Nice view of the harbor from some of the restaurants.
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The Flag Shop
phone: +1 410 625-2212address: 301 Light StFlags, flag poles, and flag accessories. Yes, this is a flag shop, and it has flags both modern and historical from virtually every country in the world, military flags, state flags, sports pennants, etc. A really fun place to stop and browse.
Eat
The majority of the really good options will be east of the Aquarium in the burgeoning and uber-yuppie neighborhood of "Harbor East." Further north in the Downtown district, you'll find more local fare at Lexington Market, and one terrific local steakhouse. Going east to Fells Point and Little Italy is without a doubt the best option for dinner if you don't fancy the options here.
Budget
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phone: +1 410 605-0444address: 1006 Fleet StA small, brick-walled, local pizza place, serving extra thin crust gourmet pizzas and pastas that could rival most anything you would find in Little Italy!
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phone: +1 410 528-5373address: 750 E Pratt StA sunny little diner-esque eatery where you won't have trouble filling up on hearty Southern/Mid-Atlantic breakfasts and lunches. The menu is quite long, so anyone will find something they like.
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phone: +1 410 244-1885address: 300 E Lombard StSmack dab in the most touristy section of town, this sandwich shop is all-localgeared towards people who work in the area, with really high quality ingredients at low prices. Great cheap, quick breakfast or lunch option.
Mid-range
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phone: +1 410 837-9903address: 1325 Key HwyThis is the place in the Inner Harbor to partake of the Baltimore tradition of bottomless mimosas and bloody marys at Sunday brunch ($17). The nuevo Cubano-style dinner menu (which is new--the older, more boring menu is gone) is intriguing as well, if a bit hit or miss, but this is always a fun place to dine, with great atmosphere and Inner Harbor views.
Splurge
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phone: +1 410 332-7373address: 1000 Lancaster StAn elegant Charleston-style restaurant serving a seafood-heavy menu of Southern fine dining. Dressy, traditional, and impeccable service. Prix fixe menus run from three to eight courses.
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phone: +1 410 752-9666address: 608 S Exeter StThis sushi house has stylish atmosphere, high quality sushi by the touristy part of town, and inventive sushi rolls. For a bit of local flavor, look to the crab, lobster, and shrimp roll, which packs in a bit of spicy Maryland Old Bay seasoning!
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phone: +1 410 528-9292address: 600 E Pratt StThe Baltimore location of the national chain of Brazilian Charcuterie restaurants is big, and will serve you copious quantities of high-quality Brazilian meat. The gimmick consists of an all-you-can-eat fixed price dinner, where you raise a flag at your table to invite the server to come bring more meat, and lower it when you want to simply eat in peace. Knowing full well that not everyone in a group is going to want meat, Fogo also has an excellent salad bar at a reduced price.
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phone: +1 410 659-0099address: 720B Aliceanna StRoy's is a trendy Hawaiian fusion restaurant, with a focus on seafood and local ingredients. Yes, it is a chain, but the food is too excellent to ignore.
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phone: +1 410 727-3678address: 401 Key HwyThis seafood restaurant is easily one of Baltimore's most high-profile dining establishments, with heavy tourist traffic, and regarded highly for its seafood, but most of all for the magnificent views of the Baltimore skyline—the best views are indeed from this angle. The seafood is very good, but not on the level you will find at other top-notch Baltimore seafood restaurants, be they upscale or on a picnic bench. The service is another step down, occasionally quite bad. But, that's not to say that you shouldn't come here—the seafood is indeed some of the best you will find right on the Inner Harbor, and, again, the views are easily up there with the best in the city. And no one would deny that the Sunday brunch is a great time.
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Watertable
phone: +1 410 685-8439The service and food are both excellent, if not the best in downtown Baltimore, but the clear reason to come is the magnificent view over the Inner Harbor. Great cheap deal on the lunch buffet!
Drink
The Inner Harbor is the worst place in Baltimore for nightlife, barring the barren and dangerous neighborhoods of East and West Baltimore. It's safe here, and within easy striking distance of the big hotels, but the nightlife is almost completely manufactured for tourism, and is accordingly overpriced, plagued by poor service, and won't give you much any idea of what local nightlife is actually about. Nonetheless there are a handful of decent options, and while a tourist trap, Power Plant Live can still be a good time if you know what to expect, and don't mind it being a bit touristy. The one real standout option that does bring in locals from other parts of the city is the wine bar in Harbor East, listed above, Vino Rosina.
If the nightlife here is not to your liking, it is easy enough to go local and leave the Harbor. Just east is Fell's Point, which is arguably the city's party central, absolutely full of bars and locals out for a good time. From the west end of the Inner Harbor, it's a short walk to Federal Hill, with another big concentration of bars.
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phone: +1 410 872-0058address: 621 E Pratt StThere is a lot to dislike about Houlihan's, which is a very much touristy spot right on the water, but it's a great stop for a weekday happy hour (M-F 4PM-7PM), when the bar offers stiff Long Island-style cocktails for $5 a pop.
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phone: +1 410 727-5107address: 616 President StA fairly typical and large Irish pub, but a particularly nice one, and just off the Inner Harbor. The beer list is standard, but the Irish food menu is surprisingly good. Frequent live music.
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phone: +1 410 867-5309address: 500 Harborview DrOn a nice summer day, this is one of the most fun options in Baltimore. A Tiki bar on a barge floating in the Inner Harbor, with a swimming pool! Easily the best overall view of Baltimore's downtown skyscrapers and the famous Domino Sugar neon sign to boot.
Power Plant Live
Watch your dress code here—panicky about Baltimore's more dangerous side spilling into tourist areas, the staff rigidly enforce the general no baggy clothing rules, and even sports apparel can cause problems here and there. Women can wear whatever they want. Men, aim for something preppy/classic.
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phone: +1 410 528-1999address: 10 Market PlDon't Stop Believing that the set list will be a little cheesy, but this rock club is regardless one of the better stops within the complex. The clientele is a little skewed towards the male gender, though (because they are sick of the house music at the other clubs). $5-10, free for ladies.
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phone: +1 410 547-7798address: 6 Market PlThe Comedy Factory transcends its plastic surroundings—it has a 30 year history (at a former location) and is the city's main, and only, comedy venue. Big names are commonplace.
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phone: +1 410 468-0022address: 600 Water StThis is the one cigar bar anywhere in the area. It's actually kind of horrible, charging patrons a $10, only to deny them a seat on which to smoke their expensive cigars, unless they are willing to fork over a considerable sum more for VIP seating. But if you are up for a big splurge, book yourself a private room with friends and sit down for a fine smoking session.
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phone: +1 410 783-5111address: 22 Market PlA "dueling piano bar" is apparently a kind of corny, but raucous experience where two piano players do requests all night (for $), while the drunk crowd (trying hard with the weak drinks) dances and sings along loudly. As with much of the entertainment in these parts, this can be a lot of fun with the right attitude (and especially with a large group). Pre-gaming at a cheaper place is suggested!
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phone: +1 410 244-8854address: 20 Market PlA two level indoor music venue, which is a nice clean, accessible place to see live music.
Sleep
Mid-range
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phone: +1 410 625-1300address: 120 E Lombard StAll suites, and aimed at business travelers.
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phone: +1 443 923-4000address: 1000 Aliceanna StOne block from the waterfront and right between the National Aquarium, Fells Point, and Little Italy.
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phone: +1 410 234-0065address: 625 S President StRight by the Courtyard. It's in the extreme east of the district, but that does make it convenient for the same attractions listed for the Courtyard.
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phone: +1 410-234-0999address: 625 S President StPet-friendly, all-suite hotel at the same address as the Hilton.
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phone: +1 410 528-1234address: 300 Light StSome great deals to be had at the big Hyatt, especially if you book far in advance, and even more especially if you forgo the harbor views.
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phone: +1 410 539-2000address: 711 Eastern AvePier 5 Hotel has a fabulous pier location with impressive harbor views (if facing west/southwest), and modern decor. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse on site.
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phone: +1 410 685-3362address: 300 S Charles StConnected to the Convention Center and two blocks east of the Inner Harbor and west of Camden Yards.
Splurge
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phone: +1 410 234-0550address: 550 Light StGreat views over the harbor (on the east side).
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phone: +1 410 385-3000address: 700 Aliceanna StHas the largest meeting room in Baltimore and located in Harbor East.
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phone: +1 410 547-1200address: 202 East Pratt StArguably the most luxurious big hotel in the city, and about as centrally located as a hotel can get in Baltimore.
Connect
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phone: +1 410 385-1709address: 601 E Pratt StThe one option for internet (outside of your hotel) will be the giant store in the historic Power Plant Building, Free public Wi-Fi. If you need a terminal, though, you are out of luck.
Go next
- Fort McHenry, in South Baltimore, is the city's most important attraction outside the Inner Harbor, and is not to be missed. The best way to go is to either take a taxi, be it by land or by sea, or for the more intrepid to take Bus #1.
- Little Italy and Fell's Point are just east of the Inner Harbor, and no trip to Baltimore would be complete without a visit to walk the neighborhood's historic harbor and to get a nice dinner at a Maryland seafood house or Italian restaurant.
- Lexington Market is just north of the Inner Harbor Downtown, and is the most efficient way to plunge yourself into the real culture of the city. Ignore people who tell you the market is unsafe (that's nonsense), and start browsing the food stalls and be sure to try some incredible crab cakes or soul food.
- Charles Street and Mount Vernon are north of Downtown in Midtown, an area very often overlooked by visitors, but are great for at least a half day visit to see the Washington Monument, the excellent Walters Art Museum, to see the opera, and to spend an evening at a great restaurant or bar, mixing it up with the locals in one of the coolest parts of the city.