Bangkok/Sukhumvit

Sukhumvit Road is not only one of the longest roads in Thailand, but one of the longest roads in the world. Towards the west end it changes name to Phloen Chit Road and Rama I Road as it enters the Siam Square area, but to the east it runs most of the way to the Cambodia border. The sois are numbered from west to east, with odd numbers north and even numbers south of Sukhumvit Road. The sois on the north and south sides of Sukhumvit don't line up; for example, Soi 33 is opposite Soi 24. Confusing is that these sois also have names of their own (for example, Soi 55 is better known as Soi Thong Lo) and these sois can also have sois of their own (such as Thong Lo Soi 1).
Looking at the high-rise apartment buildings, the Skytrain and the perennial traffic jam on Sukhumvit Road, it is hard to believe that this area used to consist of rice fields until World War II. After the war, this area became developed with large contemporary villas catering to the upper class. As property values kept rising, developers have been buying more and more land and cashed them in by constructing big apartment high-rises. The construction of the BTS Skytrain in 1999, covering most of Sukhumvit Road, has increased the popularity of this district even more.
The lower-numbered sois (roughly between Soi 1 and 63) are a popular residential area for western expatriates and affluent Thais. It is densely packed with shopping centres, restaurants and hotels. The fleshpots of Nana Entertainment Plaza (in Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (between Soi 21 and 23) are also in this area, as are plenty of more (and less) salubrious bars. Also, the pavement of Sukhumvit itself has become a huge market carrying everything from luggage to fake Rolex watches, and after midnight they turn into roadside bars and pubs. Sukhumvit offers the best dining in Bangkok, from five-star dining to street stands, the variety of choices and tastes are almost overwhelming. Japanese nationals can be found in the area Soi 21 and upwards, but most tend to congregate around Soi 55. Indians have settled around Soi 12, while Arabs are grouped at Soi 3/1, which informally is known as Soi Arab. After Soi 63, Thais take over again, though this might change when the Skytrain extension is completed in late 2011.
South of Sukhumvit's sois lies Khlong Toei, known to foreigners for Thai Port FC and for the Khlong Toei Market. Khlong Toei is a borough, a market and a port, all named after the canal that flows through the area. It means "canal of pandan" as that plant used to grow along the southern bank of the canal. A large part of it was filled up to make way for Rama IV Road in 1947. South (and under) the Chalerm Maha Nakhon Expressway are the infamous Khlong Toei slums, generally unexplored by even the most adventurous travellers. At the banks of the Chao Phraya river is the Khlong Toei Port, which has a history dating back to the ninth century, when it connected Bangkok with the cities upstream the river. Since 1981, it has lost most of its economic relevance when the larger Laem Chabang Port near Pattaya took over business.

By public transit

Skytrain

The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs, as the name suggests, over Sukhumvit Road from west to east. Sukhumvit can directly be reached by Skytrain from Siam Square or Phahonyothin. The journey from Mo Chit takes about 25 minutes to reach Asok station, while from Siam station takes about 10 minutes. If you're coming from Silom, you'll need to take the Silom Line north and change onto the Sukhumvit Line at Siam station. It takes about 20 minutes for a ride from Saphan Taksin station to reach Asok station, including the transfer at Siam. Trains leave every 5–10 minutes for a fare of about 15-40 baht.
The most important BTS stations are (from west to east) Nana, Asok, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo, Ekkamai, Phra Khanong, On Nut, Udom Suk, Bang Na and Bearing. Each station serves the neighbourhood of the same name. Asok is the most convenient station as it is in the centre of Sukhumvit and has a direct transfer with Bangkok's MRT metro system. In the following years, the Sukhumvit Line will be extended southwards to Samut Prakan and eastwards to Suvarnabhumi Airport's proposed second terminal. Samrong, the first station in Samut Prakan, opened in April 2017.

Metro

If you're coming from Silom or Ratchadaphisek, you can directly reach Sukhumvit by Bangkok's MRT metro system. The most convenient station is Sukhumvit, which is right in the middle of the district and you can transfer onto the BTS Sukhumvit Line. The other stations in the district are Khlong Toei and QSNCC. The metro ride from Silom takes about 10 minutes, while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about 15 minutes. Trains leave every 5–10 minutes for a fare of about 15-40 baht.

Airport Rail Link

The Airport Rail Link provides a direct connection between Suvarnabhumi Airport and Phaya Thai station, a ride that takes 26 minutes. At Phaya Thai, you have to switch onto the BTS Skytrain. As the systems are not integrated, you will have to buy a new ticket. Take a train in the direction of Bearing and get out at the station of your choice — Nana and Asok are the most widely used stations.

By boat

The Saen Saep Express Boat service is a rough, but entertaining way of getting in and around Sukhumvit. The Saen Saeb canal forms the northern boundary of Sukhumvit's sois and is a cheap alternative means of escaping the traffic jams if you're coming from Khao San Road, the eastern side of Rattanakosin or Ramkhamhaeng.
There are two lines: The Golden Mount Line runs from Panfa Leelard near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin east to Pratunam near Ratchaprasong intersection. The NIDA Line runs from Pratunam all the way northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road to Wat Sriboonreung. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Nana Nua takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 baht. You must switch boats at Pratunam. Other stops along Sukhumvit's northern sois (from west to east) are Nana Chard, Asoke-Petchaburi, Prasanmit, Italthai, Wat Mai Chonglom, Baan Don Mosque, Soi Thonglor, Charn Issara and Vijit School.
If you're coming from the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, there are two ways to get into Sukhumvit. The fastest way is to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn pier in Silom. From there, continue your way north using the BTS Skytrain Silom Line. You'll need to switch trains at Siam BTS station and continue your way east onto the Sukhumvit Line. The whole journey from Rattanakosin takes about 40 minutes. Alternatively walk for about 30 minutes, or a 5 minute taxi journey, to Panfa Leelard pier and continue your journey using the Saen Saep Express Boat.

By bus

This first tip on bus travel is one to remember: do not do it! Sukhumvit Road is probably the most congested road of Bangkok and traffic jams exist the whole day until late in the evening. Also, it is difficult to find out which bus goes where or where to get out. Better take the Skytrain, metro or express boat, even if it costs a little more.
If you insist, there are many bus routes through the Sukhumvit area. The most important one is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25, which starts far southeast of Sukhumvit Road. From there, it goes all the way northwest along Sukhumvit Road and then rides over Ratchadamri Road and Rama IV Road to Silom. It then continues its way to Hualamphong Train Station, through either Charoen Krung Road or Yaowarat Road (depending on direction) and finally on to Tha Chang in Rattanakosin (for the Grand Palace).
From the new Suvarnabhumi Airport, you can take bus AE3 for 150 baht to Sukhumvit. It runs up the Bang Na-Trat Expressway and along Sukhumvit all the way up to Siam Square. It then loops back around to Nana and then back out to the airport. Another option is bus 552, which heads on to On Nut, where you can continue your way with the Skytrain. There are many stops and depending on traffic the ride can take from 1 to 2 hours.

Parks

• Benchasiri Park

  address: Sukhumvit Rd
  This compact park was built to commemorate the 60th birthday of HM Queen Sirikit in 1992. It features a huge sculpture of a commemorative coin illustrating an image of HM Queen Sirikit and 12 pieces of contemporary sculptures including children's works.

• Benjakiti Park

  address: Ratchadaphisek Rd
  When the Thailand Tobacco Monopoly moved all its factory operations to Chiang Rai in 2008, the lake and some adjoining land that were part of its compound, previously enjoying semi-wild vegetation, were turned into a public park. Many splendid old rain trees were cut down in order to landscape the park, in which young trees were planted instead. Adjoining the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, it is a neat park with dedicated cycling and walking paths, fixed exercise equipment and several monuments.

Museums

• Green Lantern Cafe and Sex Museum

  address: 1045 Sukhumvit (cafe)
  A coffee shop with a Museum of Sex, devoted to the history of eroticism and the sex industry in Thailand. The proprietor's father, a wealthy property developer, has a larger sex museum, Kamavijitra, on Sukhumvit Soi 38.

• Kamavijitra: The Art of Lovemaking

  phone: +66 80 994 6683
  address: 25/14 Soi Sukhumvit 38
  According to its website: "Massive collections of Siam erotic art that will blow your eyes." Make reservation one day in advance. The founder's son has a more modest exhibition at his Green Lantern Cafe on Soi 55.

• Kamthieng House Museum

  phone: +66 2 661-6470
  address: 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asok Rd)
  Ban Kamthieng is a 19th-century ancient Thai stilted teak house where you definitely wouldn't expect it: right in the middle of Bangkok's high-rises. It was transported from Chiang Mai in pieces and assembled in Bangkok in 1964 to function as the headquarters of the Siam Society, an organisation that has the goal of preserving the cultural heritage of Thailand. Beside the house itself, on display are traditional tools, arts and crafts used by Lanna farmers and fishermen from northern Thailand in olden times, as well as a large selection of Thai flora in its yard. There is a heavy focus on the cultural heritage of northern Thailand, as that's where the house and most of the tools on display came from. The only downside of the museum is that it's quite small, so don't expect to spend here longer than 30 minutes (or even 15 minutes if you're quick).

• Museum of Thai Pharmacy

  phone: +66 2 391-6243
  address: 40 Sukhumvit Soi 38
  The museum is on the third floor of the Pharmaceutical Association of Thailand under Royal Patronage Building. It was established to publicise about traditional Thai medicine from past to present, so that later generations would learn and treasure it. The exhibition features various topics, such as the birth of pharmacy, the evolution of oriental pharmacy and basic wisdom, the evolution of western Thai pharmacy and the evolution of herbs and natural products. Make contact in advance if you are visiting with a group.

• National Science Centre for Education

  phone: +66 2 391-0544
  address: 928 Sukhumvit Rd
  This is an exhibition centre about the variety of scientific knowledge. Among the attractions are a planetarium, an aquarium as well as a permanent exhibition on sports science, communication technology and natural environments. One-hour shows at the planetarium start at 11:00 and at 14:30 with additional shows on Saturdays and Sundays at 10:00 and 13:30.

• Thailand Creative and Design Center

  phone: +66 2 664-8448
  address: 6F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd
  There couldn't have been a better place for this design gallery, at the Emporium, the most fashionable shopping mall of Bangkok. The TCDC, as abbreviation-loving Bangkokians call it, seeks to show and promote Thailand's design innovations. There is a permanent exhibition addressing the question, "What is design, and how it is influenced by factors like society, history, politics, economics, geography and religion?" There is also a temporary exhibition that often changes. If you want to enter the resource centre and the library, you can get a free one-day pass. You can only do this once and you must carry your passport with you. Spend the day reading amazing design books, or just using the Internet. If you want to visit the resource centre and library again later, you'll need to pay for a subscription.

Neighborhoods

• Soi Arab

  address: Sukhumvit Soi 3/1
  See the mingling of Arab and Thai cultures in this dense Arab neighborhood by Nana station. The area is flush with tourists from across the Arab world. It's interestingly filled with shops for two things: agarwood, an expensive wood burned as incense in the Middle East, and Arab sandals.

Focus on yourself and get pampered at one of the many massage establishments around Sukhumvit. If you want a more upmarket experience, you could head for a spa. Some of the better ones include:

• Bliss Massage & Spa

  phone: +66 2 258-5018
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 33
  Offers traditional Thai massage, head and foot massage along with a "fish spa" — wherein you immerse your feet in a tank of water and little fish nibble away at the dead skin.

• Center Point Boutique Spa

  phone: +66 2 663-6696
  address: 2/16 Sukhumvit Soi 24
  Offers excellent traditional massage in a soothing environment.

• Happy Feet

  phone: +66 2 650-3517
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 7
  This massage parlour offers excellent traditional Thai massage, oil massage, aromatherapy, foot massage and nail care.

• Hatthai Massage

  address: Sukhumvit Rd
  A traditional two hour Thai massage is given upstairs, where patrons are separated by curtains, which are often opened up so masseuses can chit chat. A 90 minute reflexology foot massage is done at ground level, opposite a large television; try not to doze off. It is popular with Japanese businessmen staying at the nearby Grand Tower Inn. Beware when searching for it, as there are now two places across the street with exactly the same name.

• Health Land Asoke

  phone: +66 2 2261-1110
  address: 55/5 Sukhumvit 21 Rd
  Part of the reputable Health Land spa chain. Offers foot reflexology, traditional Thai, therapeutic and aromatherapy body massage.

• Leyana Day Spa and Garden

  phone: +66 2 874-4461
  address: Soi To Sak, 33 Thong Lo Soi 13
  This spa is specialised in half-day packages designed for couples. Getting there is quite a hike, but you can get a free transfer from the BTS station if you request this beforehand.

• Praiphana

  phone: +66 2 392-6518
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 55
  Another massage parlour, this one offers a traditional Thai massage, oil massage and aromatherapy, manicures and pedicures. For 15 baht, you can get a 15 minute neck and shoulder massage.

If you are one of the more sporty types who like to keep active on your vacation, the national sport of Muay Thai or Thai Boxing is a great way to stay in shape. Other learning activities include cooking and meditating.

• Chacrit Muay Thai School

  phone: +66 8 9499-2052
  address: 15/2 Sukhumvit Soi 39
  Accredited Muay Thai school teaching Muay Thai to novices and professionals. Academic visas can be arranged for long term foreign students.

• Cooking with Poo and Friends

  phone: +66 80 434-8686
  address: Khlong Toei slum
  A Thai cooking school operating in the middle of Khlong Toei slum. Each day has one class which includes shopping for ingredient at Khlong Toei wet market for the daily changing menu. Tranfers included. Payment when booking.

• World Fellowship of Buddhists

  phone: +66 2 661-1284(-90)
  address: 2F, 616 Benchasiri Park, Soi Methi Niwet
  Offers meditation classes in English every afternoon on the first Sunday of every month. The office also provides information on places to learn and practice meditation in Thailand. Classes and information are free of charge.

As Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok's main thoroughfares, the long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shopping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Soi Nana Nuea) up to Soi 63 (Soi Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asok Rd) and along shortcuts between Asok and Ekkamai.

Markets

The pavement of Sukhumvit Rd was for years cramped with endless roadside stalls offering many of the same items as the Patpong Night Market, such as souvenirs, accessories, knock-off clothes, pornographic DVDs, pirated films and other junk with prices somewhat better than in Patpong. However, in 2016 city officials started enforcing old regulations prohibiting street vending and only few vendors renting space at shopfronts remain. Haggling is generally expected, but it'll only save you a few more baht. This change has made the sidewalk much easier to use even with a stroller. However, Thailand is infamous for bouts of enforcement which do not last so it remains to be seen if the stalls return making the section from Soi 3 to Soi 15 tough going, again.

• Khlong Toei Market

  address: Rama IV Rd
  Huge and surprisingly central, this market is definitely off the tourist trail. The stalls sell goods for Thais, at Thai prices. It is basically a food market with meat, seafood and farm products on sale, accompanied by the usual second hand clothes stalls. It is always open, but best experienced in the early hours of the evening.

Malls and department stores

There are plenty of malls and department stores throughout Sukhumvit Road. The best ones are Emporium and the recently opened Terminal 21, but you might as well hop on the Skytrain to Siam Square. At Thong Lo, all things are cool, be it clothing, gadgets or interior design. It could be called the "Siam Square of Sukhumvit" with its hip fashion boutiques, trendy designer stores and overall swanky appearance.

• Emporium

  phone: +66 2 269-1000
  address: 622 Sukhumvit Rd
  This upmarket mall, with selections of everything in design, including watches, cosmetics and clothes, is the top competitor to Ratchaprasong's Gaysorn Plaza. The lower floors are dedicated to brands like Louis Vuitton and Rolex, but (unlike Gaysorn) it has more affordably priced goods on the upper levels. Kinokunyia book store has a large selection of English language books, including travel-related ones. The top floor is home to one of the nicest cinemas in the city after Siam Paragon (and somewhat less pricey than that one) and the Thailand Creative and Design Center. Emporium also has a popular food court and a good selection of restaurants on the fifth floor. A very upscale happening (and crowd), this place challenges the idea of food courts as being simple places to have a snack after shopping. Park Food Hall serves an extensive three-course meal with wine in a dimly-lit atmosphere. You can also go to the regular food court, which is comparatively small and hidden behind the other restaurants, but cheap and often packed. At peak hours it's difficult to get a seat if you're alone. The prices have been increasing over the past years though.

• EmQuartier

  phone: +66 2 269-1000
  address: 637 Sukhumvit Rd
  After opening in 2015 EmQuartier remains the newest upmarket mall in Bangkok after the plans for EmSphere have been shelved. The mall uses unusual architectural features to differentiate itself: there is a 40 m waterfall, an indoor tropical garden, the SkyCliff view point on the 45th floor, and a hanging garden enclosed in a spiral walkway that connects 9 floors of restaurants topped with a Japanese one with a rooftop terrace. Otherwise the mall has the usual stuff: restaurants, shops with hundreds of foreign and Thai brands and an IMAX cinema.

• Gateway Ekamai

  phone: +66 2 108-2888
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 42
  This mall is the southernmost one on Sukhumvit Rd before the border with Samut Prakan. It titles itself as a Japanese lifestyle mall and houses some peculiar businesses like a weird maid cafe with a concept imported from Japan and Snow Town theme park where you can play with snow and even get downhill skiing lessons.

• J Avenue

  address: 323/1 Thong Lo Soi 15
  Opened in 2004, this four-story upscale "lifestyle mall" that is typical for the swanky Thong Lo neighbourhood. It is an open-air mall with giant rain trees inside. Its modern architecture and hip designer shops are catering to Thong Lo's Japanese crowd (that's what the J stands for).

• K-Village

  phone: +66 2 258-9919
  address: 93-95 Sukhumvit Soi 26
  The so-called "lifestyle malls" are the new hype in Bangkok, and the newest one is K-Village, which has been around since 2009. Touted as a "neighbourhood lifestyle mall", apparently this should be a small village where you can meet and know people. In practice, it's just another upscale mall with supermarkets, restaurants, cafés, spas and (of course) a lot of fashion stores.

• Nana Square

  phone: +66 2 253-0192
  address: 49 Sukhumvit Rd
  Quite a generic shopping mall, but at a convenient location. It has everything you would expect from a typical Bangkokian mall, including a food court, Starbucks, Watsons and dry cleaner.

• Ploenchit Center

  phone: +66 2 656-8600
  address: 2 Sukhumvit Rd
  Although the name might suggest otherwise, this shopping centre is not on Phloen Chit Road, but can be found at the western edge of Sukhumvit Road. The ground floor has the typical chain stores (Starbucks, McDonald's, Boots), as well as lower-priced clothing outlets, jewellery shops and a supermarket. Most tourists don't make it out this far, so most of the visitors are local office workers from surrounding buildings. The sixth floor is one of the cheaper food courts in the area with a good selection of Thai dishes. It uses with a coupon system.

• Robinson

  phone: +66 2 651-1533
  address: 259 Sukhumvit Rd
  Robinson is the well-known department store that is spread all over Bangkok. Its food court, while still decent, is a bit more expensive than the others, and you may need to order twice to get full. It's in the basement floor of the building.

• Terminal 21

  phone: +66 2 108-0888
  address: 288 Sukhumvit Soi 19
  The curvilinear glass-and-steel façade resembles a 21st-century airport. The basement level has a Caribbean theme and is where you will find the gourmet market, take-away food outlets, market-style food vendors as well as banks and bookstores. The ground floor is named Rome, with international and local fashion labels such as Kipling, Fox, CC:OO, Nike, Jaspal, Adidas and Levi's. Paris on M floor takes you to a faux Champs-Élysées. The 1st to 3rd floors are home to smaller shops by local independent labels. Women's fashion is on the 1st floor (Tokyo) and men's fashion is on the 2nd floor (London). The 3rd floor (Istanbul) is for gifts, jewellery, fashion accessories, toys, beauty products and home décor. San Francisco is on the 4th and 5th floors, with more than 50 restaurants and cafés. If you like food courts, head up to Pier 21 on the 5th floor. This is perhaps one of the best food courts in Bangkok for price, taste and variety: dim sum, grilled seafood (fast food style), Hainanese chicken rice, delicious pad thai, roast duck noodles and vegetarian options. Desserts include mango sticky rice, shaved ice dessert and ice creams. SF Cinema City operates an eight screen cineplex on the 6th floor. Two screens have digital 3D capabilities.

Tailors

If you know where to go, Sukhumvit offers some of the best bespoke tailoring in Bangkok. Never go to custom tailor shops that get your suits and shirts ready in 24 hours or less. If you want good quality, go to a reliable tailor which will ask for two to five sittings. The entire process will take about a week. For more information on bespoke tailoring, see the Buy section of the main Bangkok article.

• Crown Tailor

  phone: +66 2 2535541
  address: 13 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  Highly regarded as one of the best places to get a suit on Sukhumvit Rd. It is definitely worth the visit for good quality material at affordable prices.

• Jhasper Fashion

  phone: +66 2 6512522
  address: 155/32 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  Good tailoring store for men's and women's suits, trousers, shirts, dresses and more.

• New Landmark Boutique

  phone: +66 2 6568190
  address: 102 Sukhumvit Rd
  A favourite among European flight crews. The owner visits Europe about once a year for orders. Very good advice, high quality and fair prices. Across Sukhumvit there is another "Landmark Tailor" not affiliated with this one.

• Rajawongse Clothier

  phone: +66 2 2553714
  address: 130 Sukhumvit Rd
  To quote Denis Gray, from The Associated Press: "A stop at Rajawongse Clothier has over the years become a must for visiting statesmen, ambassadors and generals, along with some of the world's top spies and secret service agents."The changing room walls are filled with business cards of customers over the years: American embassy employees from across Asia are common. The back wall also has photos of Jesse, the owner, with George H. Bush who stopped by.

• Savile Row Tailor

  phone: +66 22354427
  address: 625 Sukhumvit Soi 22
  Savile Row fabrics range from cottons and linens, to cashmere and merino wool. They can also can use kid mohair for suits, and Egyptian cottons and Oxford for shirts. Overcoats can be sewn from Italian cashmere.

• Fashion Galleria Bangkok

  phone: +66816250606
  address: Suite 108, River City Shopping Complex Yotha Road, Next To Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel Bangkok 10100 Thailand
  Fashion Galleria offers true bespoke tailoring experience at competitive pricing in Bangkok.

• Tailor On Ten

  phone: +66 8 01439447
  address: 93 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  Good quality tailor, owned and managed by a Canadian who produces beautiful suits, shirts and more. Their prices are competitive and they carry a wide range of fabrics.

Book stores

Sukhumvit has a number of specialty stores frequented by tourists.

• Asia Books

  phone: +66 2 651-0428(-9)
  address: 221 Sukhumvit Rd
  Every nook and cranny is packed with books in this Sukhumvit branch of Bangkok's oldest English-language bookstore. It remains a good source of maps and books on Thailand and Southeast Asia although the original shop has grown to a chain that seems to have an outlet in every big shopping mall in addition to online sales.

• Dasa Book Cafe

  address: 714/4 Sukhumvit Rd
  Great collection of used English, French, German, Scandinavian, and Finnish books, 15,000 in all. General fiction and guidebooks can be found on the ground floor; mystery, children’s, history, politics and non-fiction are on the first floor; horror, true crime, sports, philosophy, psychology, nature, and language books are found on the third floor. Prices range from 50 to 3,000 baht, although most books are priced around 200 baht. Used books are usually priced at half the price of new books. Owners are Kaweewut Wuttiwibhu and Donald Gilliland.

• Sun Books

  phone: +66 81-751-2659
  address: 593/5 Sukhumvit Rd
  If you don't have time to go to Khao San Rd, Elite Book House is a worthy alternative for buying second-hand English-language books. They have a small selection of English fiction books but mostly store Japanese books.

Art

Sombat Permpoon Gallery

Sells both paintings and sculptures by established artists and those of the new generation. There are more than 10,000 artworks by Thai artists on sale.

There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in the world represented, this is the place to break your pad thai diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese or Indian food you will ever eat.

Budget

While not as much an institution as in Siam Square, the food courts in any mall or department store are a good option if you're trying to survive Sukhumvit on budget and want air-conditioning. Just like in Siam Square, food courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to more upscale dining. The Emporium Mall, Ploenchit Center and Robinson all have decent food courts (see Buy). Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded.
There are some cheapie sois with excellent street food if you know where to go:

• Soi 38 Night Market

  address: Sukhumvit Soi 38
  Soi 38 gives you some of the better street food in Bangkok. Not a restaurant in itself, just sit at a table and order whatever you like from the numerous foodstalls (they'll figure out the bill for you). You can find the most delicious mango and sticky rice (ข้าวเหนียวมะม่วง khao niow ma muang) in town. Also try the herbal fish ball noodles.

• Talat Na Sukhumvit Soi 1

  address: Sukhumvit Rd
  Between Soi 1 and Soi 3 is a set of street food stalls with the best one furthest from the street. It is called Oowan Im (literally 'fatty is full'), but is sign-posted in English with just the word "Seafood" on an otherwise Thai sign. Seafood is their specialty — good things to order include the "crispy fish in chili sauce", tom yum soup and any of their Thai salads (such as mixed seafood salad). The Chinese-style fried vegetables are also delicious.

• Roong Roeng

  address: 10/3 Sukhumvit Soi 26
  No frills place selling tom yum pork noodles or Sen Lek Hang Tom Yum in Thai. Popular among the local office workers. Does not see many Western tourists, though staff can communicate in basic English.

Budget restaurants are generally hard to find, but the following are favorites among Bangkok's large expat population:

• Ramen Ichiban

  phone: +66 2 258-6314
  address: 3/7-9 Sukhumvit Soi 24
  An authentically Japanese greasy-spoon noodle joint specializing in ramen soup. For less than 100 baht, the large bowl is a good value.

Mid-range

• Nam Bliss

  address: 189/1 Sukhumvit
  Unpretentious and inconspicuous Thai cafe with wide range of local fare. Little English spoken but a picture menu to help you. Warning and/or endorsement: They do not tone down the taste for the Western palate.

Fusion

Thai food with a modern twist has become particularly popular the last years. Fusion restaurants are centred around the H1 complex on Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo).

• Be your Guest' Café

  phone: +66 8 1637-9047
  address: 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53
  Delicious diverse cooking experience with dishes from all around the world. Soup, salad, sandwich, mains, as well as a selection of typical French, Thai and fusion food are served. The café also provides a large choice of food for take away and delivery. The Villa is also a three-bedroom guest house in a relaxing tropical garden with private pool.

• Greyhound Café

  phone: +66 2 255-6964
  address: 2F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd
  An extremely modern restaurant of concrete and brushed steel, offering a fusionesque menu of food ranging from authentic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains are around 300 baht, although the lunch sets are cheaper.

• Minibar Royale

  phone: +66 2 261-5533
  address: Citadines Bldg, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 23
  If you're looking for a hip New York or Paris-style brasserie, this is definitely the place. The French decor is well done, and service is OK. On the menu are a mix of French and American comfort food. Drink it down with one of their cocktails and you'll have a fun night out. Prices are at the upper mid-range end.

• Thyme Bistro & Martini Bar

  phone: +66 2 120-8288
  address: 1F, Kingston Suites Bldg, 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15
  A restaurant located in Kingston Suites Bangkok, its dishes could be described as "fusion", as it offers local, international and some popular Mediterranean dishes. The asparagus rolls are recommended, as are the Martinis.

Thai

• Cabbages and Condoms

  phone: +66 2 229-4610
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 12, Khlong Toei
  Run by Thailand's Population and Community Development Association, the odd name refers to the fact that the NGO promotes agricultural production as well as condom use; and no prizes for guessing what you'll get after dinner instead of an after-dinner mint. The food is competent but toned down for the foreign palate. A bit expensive for what you get but it's for an excellent cause.

• Check Inn 99

  phone: +66 8 7073-7989
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 5
  Previous reviews said this place was straight out of a James Bond film. However, it's closer to Rick's Café in Casablanca. Check Inn Garden (no longer 99) is an oasis amidst the chaos of the Nana area. Good Western and Thai menu, a friendly and attentive staff, and terrific entertainment every night courtesy of three delightful Philippine singers and a backing musician. At 20:45, the music starts — often light and relaxed — but the band then gradually winds up the tempo throughout the evening. Happy hour is from 18:00-20:00. The steakhouse style restaurant, while small, serves both European and Thai food, and has pretty good steaks. The new management throw in theme parties on most Saturdays—so don't be surprised if you come in finding the staff in pyjamas or Hawaiian grass skirts.

• Kinnaree

  phone: +66 2 256-0328
  address: 43 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  Very nice Thai ambience and decoration, great in the evening. Lounge bar and private rooms upstairs. The different sets of lunch menus are reasonably priced. The food is excellent and includes dishes hard to find elsewhere. Some dishes could be more spicy by Thai standards though.

• Lemongrass

  phone: +66 2 258-8637
  address: 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24
  This is a very good if slightly expat-oriented Thai restaurant. Located in an old tea house, the ambience is very charming and eclectic. The pomelo salad and tom yam kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง) are both excellent. As is usual with popular expat places, the spiciness has been toned down somewhat. Also, the service can be a bit hasty.

• Ruen Mallika

  phone: +66 2 663-3211
  address: 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22
  A very good restaurant in an "antique" Thai house with a leafy outdoor section. The menu is a huge picture book which should help in ordering. The staff are very friendly and wear traditional Thai outfits to complete the ambience.

Asian

Finding your way around the mindblowing variety in Sukhumvit might feel a bit daunting at first. One way to approach the area is to visit its ethnic food neighbourhoods. Little Japan is located near Sukhumvit Soi 33 and across the street at Sukhumvit Soi 24, with Phrom Phong BTS station straddling the two. There is also a smaller concentration of Japanese restaurants along Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), notably the Nihonmura ("Japan Village") in Thong Lo Soi 13.

• Akiyoshi

  phone: +66 2 714-0791
  address: 2F, Taksin Square Bldg, 1521/1 Sukhumvit Rd
  The two must-tries here are the Japanese-style sukiyaki and the shabu shabu. The employees will light up a burning pan on your table and you can just throw in the ingredients yourself. The food is really delicious, and they will serve until you're full. The ambience is best-suited for a group of people. But better make a reservation if you're coming after 18:00, as it's often packed.

• Grande Teppanyaki and Grande Ramen

  phone: +66 2 714-1020
  address: 25/17-19 Sukhumvit Soi 55
  Two small Japanese restaurants facing each other, popular with Thais and Japanese. Sub-100 baht lunch menus are particularly good value.

• Le Dalat

  phone: +66 2 258-4192
  address: 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23
  Two Vietnamese restaurants, two locations about a block apart and across the street from each other. When it's a nice day outside, take a seat in the beautiful tropical garden which is wonderful. The traditional interior You can get lunch for about 250 baht, which is a good value. Service can be rough, be especially wary for the overcharge at the end.

• Nihonmura

  address: 87 Soi Thong Lo 13
  Nihonmura, commonly known as Japan Village, is a dining complex with about a dozen quality Japanese restaurants.

• Uomasa

  phone: +66 2 392-6575
  The best in the area for sashimi (raw fish). You can order the "Iso" menu, a plate full of sashimi priced at 1,600 baht. It seems expensive, but it's similarly priced to the generic Japanese chain restaurants, but the sashimi here is much fresher and of better quality.

Nobu

phone: +66 2 392-5297

address: 414 Sukhumvit Soi 55

This is a nice local restaurant. They are very good for lunch with a large selection of Bento (boxed lunch) specials. Getting dinner here is a lot more expensive than lunch. It is focused on fresh seafood and dishes from the Osaka region of Japan. It's always crowded with Japanese expats that live in the area.

Tenderloins

phone: +66 2 258-4529

address: 9 Sukhumvit Soi 33

This Australian barbecue restaurant calls itself a "contemporary upmarket sports bar and steak house", and even they have to admit that it is a weird combination. They serve up a good grill, although a bit on the pricey side. Their 250-baht lunch sets might be a better idea. Reserving a table is recommended, especially at weekends.

Xuan Mai

phone: +66 2 185-2619

address: 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55

Excellent and varied Vietnamese menu, served by the owner, a charming lady who was a former Vietnamese beauty queen and FBI operative before moving to Bangkok to open a restaurant. It has an open kitchen, so you can see the cooking in action.

Vientiane Kitchen

phone: +66 2 258-6171

address: 8 Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1, Sukhumvit Soi 36

This relaxed-looking Lao restaurant serves very good Lao food. It has a nice ambience featuring a band playing music from Laos.

Indian and Middle Eastern

Soi 3 and Soi 3/1, a short walk from Nana BTS station, are known as Soi Arab for the heavy concentration of Middle Eastern businesses in the area; in some spots you will see more signs in Arabic than in Thai! Thanks to a demanding clientele and heavy competition, the food here is some of the best this side of Lebanon.

• Akbar

  phone: +66 2 255-6935
  address: 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 3
  Being two decades old, this mid-sized Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurant is one of the most established restaurants in Bangkok. It serves good quality food at reasonable prices. Its location next to Soi Arab is ideal as you can compare with other restaurants in the area. Try the Akbari Chicken.

• Al Ferdoss

  phone: +66 2 255-8200
  address: 1F, Schiller's Inn, 77/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1
  This Lebanese restaurant may have the ambience of a motel lobby, which it pretty much is, but the food is amazing. Dips and salads (hummus, tabbouleh, falafel, etc) 80 baht each, kebabs from 130 baht, and best of all is the excellent oven-fresh naan. Air-conditioned indoors, but move outside for mint tea and some puffs of the shisha (water pipe).

• Beirut Restaurant

  phone: +66 2 656-7377
  address: B1, Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd
  In an unlikely location, next to a supermarket in an otherwise nearly desolate shopping mall, Beirut gets negative points for ambience but serves up very good Middle Eastern fare. The basic shawarma in a pita is a nice simple snack. Don't confuse this one with the Lebanese restaurant on the ground floor (Café de Beyrouth), which is much more expensive.

• Indian Host

  phone: +66 2 260-1115
  address: 30 Soi Sukhumvit 22
  This restaurant has contemporary North Indian cuisine and Indo-Chinese fusion dishes. Its food is authentic and much like you'd taste in India. The tender lamb Raan is their signature dish.

• Khana Khazana

  phone: +66 2 255-2289
  address: 153 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1
  Pure Indian vegetarian restaurant with North Indian, South Indian and Gujarati food.

• Masala Art

  phone: +66 2 713-8357
  address: Unit-L 205, 2F, Thonglor Eight Building, 88 Thong Lo Soi 8
  This is a luxury North Indian restaurant with its own philosophy. Masala is the Indian word for spice, and the "art of spices" means that there should be a natural balance of spices to get healthy, herbal and delicious food. This restaurant offers a fixed lunch and dinner special. It boasts a great decor, as well as authentic (and spicy) Indian food. Prices can be steep though, especially if you opt for a three-course meal.

• Mrs Balbir's

  phone: +66 2 651-0498
  address: 155/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1
  After 35 years of operation, the restaurant has moved to a new location only a few doors away. The curries are still some of the best in all of Bangkok, and a good value compared to other Indian restaurants along Sukhumvit. It has less than ten tables, but that just gives it a cosy and personal feeling. Try the chicken tikka, it's delicious.

• Namuskaar

  phone: +66 2 255-1869
  address: 9 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  This restaurant is known among ex-pats as providing one of the closest approximations of British-style Indian food. It is definitely worth it to venture out here as the curries simply are delicious. It doesn't look super fancy or romantic, but it is clean and comparatively cheap. Try the chicken korma, or ask Tony, the owner, for advice. He can make anything you request.

• Shahrazad

  phone: +66 2 251-3666
  address: 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1
  Great Middle Eastern, Malaysian and Indian food. Its dishes are well-served by hijab-clad Thai waitresses with many Arab expats hanging out here. It's been open since 1983 and one of Soi Arab's oldest and most respected restaurants. Its decor is very basic, but the food is amazing.

European

• Crepes & Co.

  phone: +66 2 015 3388
  address: 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1
  French-Mediterranean crepes place. Extensive selection of crepes, both sweet and savoury.

• Heidelberg Restaurant and Bar

  phone: +66 2 252-3584
  address: 21-21/1 Sukhumvit Soi 4
  A Swiss-German restaurant. Pricey but food is good and ample. Drink elsewhere, except if you want a drink at 04:00. The Thai offerings can be had much cheaper, but some of the European offerings are difficult to find elsewhere. Free Wi-Fi. Also has a few nicely appointed rooms from 1,850 baht.

• Limoncello

  phone: +66 2 651-0707
  address: 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  A bright, airy pizzeria; the best Italian-style pizza in Bangkok, very thin and crispy with a great range of toppings. Amazing desserts too (try the profiteroles!). Avoid the house wine, though. As is usual in Thailand, wine is very pricey, and at 1,300 baht it is not worth it.

• Stable Lodge

  phone: +66 2 653-0017
  address: 39 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  Unlike other places, this restaurant (and hotel) focuses on traditional Danish and Scandinavian food, though some Thai and international cuisine is available. There's a Scandinavian all-you-can-eat lunch buffet with open sandwich selection on Saturdays and Sundays between 12:00 and 15:00. Every evening from 18:00 is an all-you-can-eat international barbecue buffet. Aside from these discount offerings, a la carte is overpriced and not worth it. The hotel is a well-known meeting spot among Scandinavians with a nice family atmosphere. It costs about 1,800 baht for a clean and quiet room with swimming pool.

• Pala Pizza Romana

  address: Asok BTS/Terminal 21
  Busy casual Italian diner hiding under Asok BTS with pizza by the slice, pastas, and many others. Great for good-value Italian and the crowds passing by.

American and Tex-Mex

• Bourbon St

  phone: +66 2 381-6801
  address: 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit Soi 63
  This place serves some surprisingly authentic Cajun food. Premium prices are charged for dinner but the two or three-course lunches at 230-290 baht are a good value. On Tuesday evenings they have a Mexican buffet starting at 18:00 which is somewhat cheaper than regular prices. The original location at Washington Square off Sukhumvit Soi 22 has closed.

• Charley Browns Mexicana

  phone: +66 2 044 2553
  address: 19/9-10 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Rd
  Certainly the oldest Mexican restaurant in Bangkok and probably one of the best. They have special offers on most days, including half priced margaritas and sangrias on Tuesdays and Cheap Charley Brown's night on Sundays (they match the cheap prices at Cheap Charlies who is closed that night). A tip are the 150-baht lunch sets, which is a steal. Free WiFi.

• The Duke's

  phone: +66 8 7002-9214
  address: 5F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd
  Recently re-branded making it similar to the popular The Duke's restaurant in Chiang Mai. It is a popular place for American food, like "falling off the bone" ribs, fresh crisp salads, gourmet burgers and home baked pizzas with excellent value for money.

• Great American Rib Company

  phone: +66 2 661-3801
  address: 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36
  Great American Southern-style ribs, steaks and seafood. Probably the most authentic ribs in town, smoked on low heat for 5 hours. Some menus are moderately priced, but others are very pricey, especially the steaks that don't cost more than 600 baht.

• Ronny's New York Pizza

  phone: +66 2 255-2626
  address: Sukhumvit Soi 4
  Self-proclaimed as the first New York-style pizza place in Bangkok. It's open till late, so that's good, but generally the place is not special. The staff are pleasant, but the quality of the pizzas leave much to be desired. Serve only full pies until 17:00, then slices also. Bring your laptop for free Wi-Fi.

• Mexicano

  phone: +66 2 261-7100
  address: 1F, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18
  One of Bangkok's few Mexican restaurants. It is on the expensive side, but every day of the week (except Mondays) there is a live Latin American band playing.

• Sunrise Tacos

  phone: +66 2 229-4851
  address: 236/3-4 Sukhumvit Rd
  Mexican grill with traditional favorites like nachos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and satisfying salads. The meals are fresh and they have 24 hours delivery available. It is a popular expat place. They have another branch in Emporium.

Splurge

• Baan Khanitha

  phone: +66 2 258-4181
  address: 36/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23
  Well-known if mildly touristy restaurant in an old Thai house, the primary concession to Western tastes being the lack of chili. It is on the expensive side with most mains (especially seafood), but the food is generally excellent and the presentation spot-on. Best known for their pomelo salad (ยำส้มโอ yam som-o) and red curry with duck (แกงแดงเป็ด kaeng daeng pet).

• Basil

  phone: +66 2 649-8366
  address: 1F, Sheraton Grande Hotel, 250 Sukhumvit Rd
  Exceptional traditional Thai food with a twist in this trendy and sophisticated restaurant. It is definitely expensive, but the food is very good and there's a romantic ambience. Try the massaman curry, a delicious dish from southern Thailand. Bring your wallet though.

• Face

  phone: +66 2 713-6048
  address: 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38
  Face has established itself as one of Thailand's leading dining venues. It is actually three restaurants in one: Hazara for Indian, Lan Na Thai for Thai and Misaki for Japanese. The interior of these restaurants look nothing less than stunning. Especially Lan Na Thai is a treat, as it has cultural artifacts all over and is surrounded by wooden Lanna-style teak houses that rival Jim Thompson's House. The complex also has a chic cocktail bar, a spa and cooking classes. The spa is particularly is well-loved, a Thai massage or "royal" massage cost 900 baht/hr. Cooking classes are 3,000 baht for two hours, you must book at least one week in advance.

• Indus

  phone: +66 2 258-4900
  address: 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26
  The food is mainly authentic north Indian with a wide range of spicy Indian tastes. An impressive list of vegetarian dishes is also available, as well as wines from around the world. Its impressive sandstone walls and wood carvings make a great interior. Or go outside, experiencing an amazing world of your own, not even noticing it is right here in downtown Bangkok. It is recommended to make a reservation by phone.

• L'Opera

  phone: +66 2 258-5606
  address: 53/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39
  Established 1984, this is the oldest genuine Italian restaurant in Bangkok, and most likely also in Thailand. Though long established as the Italian place to eat amongst the Thai stars, politicians and local business elite, the atmosphere is relaxed and caters to tourists and middle class as well. The food prepared by the Italian chef is top class and they stock a wine selection to match. It is expensive by any means, 1,500 baht is a normal price for a bottle of wine.

• La Buca

  phone: +66 2 253-3190
  address: 220/4 Sukhumvit Soi 1
  This little Italian restaurant is possibly one of the most authentic in Bangkok. The Italian owner changes the menu weekly, and a good selection of wine is available. Romantic, but on the expensive side, even without wine.

• Le Beaulieu

  phone: +66 2 204-2004
  address: 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19
  This French restaurant is probably one of the best in the city. The chef cares about quality and is willing to make changes to the menus at the customer's request. The atmosphere feels welcome and relaxed at the same time. This all goes for a high price though. The lunch sets are a lot cheaper, about 525 baht for a three-course menu and coffee.

• Maru

  phone: +66 2 712-5001
  address: 95/5-6 Thong Lo Soi 3
  A highly praised Japanese restaurant. Prices are extremely high although between 17:00-19:00, they offer reasonably priced dinner sets for around 500 baht.

• LukKaiThong Royal Cooking @ The EmQuartier District

  phone: +66 2 003-6301, +66 2 003-6302
  address: Room No. 6A04-05, 6th Floor, The EmQuartier Department Store, No. 693, Sukhumvit Road
  An upmarket restaurant that serves Thai-Chinese cuisine. Popular dishes include the river prawns, stewed pork belly and Thai tea shaved ice.

• The Gardens of Dinsor Palace

  phone: +66 2-714-2112
  address: Soi Chumbala, Sukhumvit Rd
  Set in the grounds of a former royal mansion in Ekkamai, this restaurant is surprisingly affordable for its luxurious setting. There is a large variety of dishes, their sophisticated French mains are particularly worth it. While not very well known among individual visitors, it does attract tour groups, which could negatively affect the otherwise splendid atmosphere.

The Sukhumvit area contains more watering holes than can easily be counted, and touts are not as big of a problem here as in Patpong. However, the scene is oriented towards Western ex-pats and wealthy high-society Thais, for more of a local ambience (and local prices) head a bit north to Ratchadaphisek instead.

Go-go and beer bars

Soi Cowboy (off Asok Road) and Nana Entertainment Plaza (Soi 4) are packed full of go-go bars much like those in Patpong. Soi 33 is packed with hostess bars, which are more upscale than the Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza bars and do not feature go-go dancing. Since the establishments are jammed side by side on the streets (or along the interior courtyard, in Nana Plaza), it's easy to go go-go bar hopping: they all come in different sizes, music, lighting and dancer physiques. You'll probably find one to fit your preferences.
While the places all operate with more or less the same concept, the following have been around for a while and are unlikely to rip you off:

• Angel Witch

  address: 2F, Nana Entertainment Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 4
  A single stage, with choreographed shows most evening at 22:00 until 00:00. Not as heavily packed outside of showtimes, nor the best place for a single man on the hunt, but an excellent "gentler" introduction for couples and those merely curious to see the sights.

• Beer Garden Soi 7

  phone: +66 2 255-7858
  address: 15 Sukhumvit Soi 7
  Not a go-go bar, but basically a pick-up joint where men easily get numerous young and not so young ladies for a night, particularly at weekends. It is popular as there is no "barfine" here. It can also be a nice place to relax with moderate Western music, if you tell the ladies to go away. They serve German and other beers, including wheat beer (Franziskaner). You can eat European food at the tables or just have a drink at the bar.

• Long Gun

  address: Soi Cowboy
  Not the largest or flashiest bar — indeed, it has seen better days — but is reputed to be the oldest bar in the Soi and by extension the oldest go-go bar outside of Patpong. It's got a somewhat less frenetic atmosphere than some of the bigger bars, and may be worth a visit as well as a piece of (possibly apocryphal) history.

• Rainbow 4

  address: 2F, Nana Entertainment Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 4
  Squeezes two stages into a small space, and is always packed with girls and punters.

• Suzie Wong

  address: Soi Cowboy
  Small and unprepossessing at first sight, the only hint of a Chinese theme are the cheongsams of the waitresses, but this go go and its sister operation Sheba's across the street are famed for putting on some of the best shows in Bangkok.

Bars and pubs

Looking for a place to watch your favorite sport on the big screen? Sukhumvit from Soi 2 to 33 offers plenty of choices. The stereotypic bars here are British pubs with rugby on, selling lots of beer and pub grub (be it grill menus or other simple snacks). The workers are young Thai hostesses in tight outfits who serve Western ex-pats that generally are older than 40.

• The Australian

  phone: +66 2 651-0800
  address: 38 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  Good food; excellent but expensive wine, and attractive waitresses. Aussie Rules football on various TVs.

• Bradman's Sports Bistro

  phone: +66 8 6807-1384
  address: 4/6 Sukhumvit Soi 23
  An Australian bar and bistro with many TVs everywhere for watching different kind of sports. There are several sound rooms, so customers can watch different sports at different parts of the bar. The owner is actively involved in the business, and sometimes asks his customers which sport should be on.

• Bully's

  phone: +66 2 656-4609
  address: Sukhumvit Rd
  A typical Sukhumvit-style bar with drinks, food, pool table and football screens. Beer is averagely priced and always cold, but a bottle of water is expensive at 80 baht. They recently changed management and employed a new chef. Excellent pub-style food.

• Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern

  phone: +66 2 655-5340(-42)
  address: 6/1 Sukhumvit Soi 5
  A large, western sports bar with English-speaking staff serving Western and Thai food and drinks. There are large flat screen TVs all around, so a variety of sports are shown simultaneously (baseball, football, rugby, golf, etc). Plenty of pool tables are in the rear, with female Thai players ready beat you. Unusually for Thailand, children are not admitted, making this place no good for families.

• Old German Beerhouse

  phone: +66 2 651-3838
  address: Grand President Tower III, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  The only place that looks like a German Brauhaus. The beers served are Warsteiner and Erdinger, but they also have the Frankfurter Apfelwein (a sort of German cider). Along with the beer go their simple Thai or European dishes for 120-200 baht. Free WiFi is also available.

• Singha Beer Park

  phone: +66 2 644-4146
  address: Asok Rd
  This is a modern open-air beer garden. If you choose to sit inside, you'll see its flashy interior and its laid-back couches on which you can enjoy a cold beer. Also have the usual Thai dishes.

• The Robin Hood

  phone: +66 2 662-3390
  address: P.B Building, 597-597/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1
  English pub with pub grub and daily happy hour specials. Australian and British sports on large flat screen TVs. Popular with ex-pats.

• The Sport Corner

  phone: +66 8 708-45490
  address: 394/2 Sukhumvit Soi 20
  The Sport Corner offers numerous big flat-screen TVs, both indoors and outdoors, showing sports from around the world. Friendly, hassle-free hostesses, along with affordable drinks, Thai and Western food, make it a fun place to cheer your favourite team on.

Wine bars

With a growing interest in foreign as well as local wines, there is a growing number of wine bars in Bangkok and many of these are in the Sukhumvit area. Most of these are trendy establishments with selections of exclusive French, Italian, Spanish and other international wines.

• Opera Riserva

  phone: +66 2 258-5606
  address: 53/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39
  Opera Riserva can be a bit difficult to find for the first time visitor, however those who do are rewarded with a large selection of wine. They range from the affordable to the very exclusive. Mainly Italian and French wines, but they also offer a selection from other countries. The Opera Riserva wine bar is set on two levels. There are a dozen or so tables and a large bar on the ground floor. The second floor has a more relaxed setting with several groups of leather sofas and some private rooms — one with a separate entrance for those who prefer to come and go unnoticed. Clientèle is equally local and foreign and local stars are often spotted here.

Superhip

Soi 11 and 23 have some of the trendiest clubs in town. These venues are all about seeing and being seen, popular among the well-to-do Thai and expat crowd. Soi 55 (Thong Lo) and Soi 63 (Ekkamai) also have their fair share of places to spend the night, but these are somewhat more modest and have more in common with traditional bars.
Fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to the following listings, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts. Always bring your passport as club owners must (and will) check it upon entry.

• BASH

  address: 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  This recently opened "Upscale Late Nightclub" gives after hours parties a fresh alternative to Narz. The first two floors consist of a mostly electronic dance floor and a balcony level that overlooks it. The third floor usually has a DJ playing a mix of hip-hop and pop music.

• Club Nove

  phone: +66 2 712-9991
  address: 131 Sukhumvit Soi 53
  Club Nove is a hip club that fits perfectly in the quirky Thong Lo area. There is a dance floor in the middle where you can dance on lounge music surrounded by nice lighting effects. Saturdays have been dubbed "Cristal Night". The crowd consists mostly of upper class Thais.

• Glow

  phone: +66 2 261-4446
  address: 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23
  Glow is Bangkok's top spot for underground house music. The crowd is usually less posey and more fun than at the other 'top' clubs. This place is popular with international visitors looking for a funky "European-style" clubbing night. Thursday nights are dubbed "No Problem Disco", while on weekends their parties have different themes on rotation.

• Long Table

  phone: +66 2 302-2557
  address: 25F, Column Bldg, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16
  A swanky superhip bar and restaurant, one of the "see and be seen" venues of Bangkok. Its interior design is very impressive. Located on the 25th floor, it has an excellent view of Bangkok's skyline. If you're coming for dinner, all visitors dine at one long table that is touted as the longest dining table in the world. The food could best be described as fusion, an interesting mix of Thai and international cuisine.

• Narz

  phone: +66 2 258-4805
  address: 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23
  Catering mostly to moneyed Thais, this funky dance club is most reminiscent of the clubs in Ibiza. There is a whole lot going on with on-stage-performances, shiny disco balls and light shows. It is one of Bangkok's top clubbing spots, and a place to see and be seen, especially if you're into trance or house music. It is renowned DJ Paul Oakenfold's venue of choice. Narz is also known for staying open far later than most other places that close at 02:00.

• Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

  phone: +66-2-7970000
  address: 2 Sukhumvit Road Soi 57
  While far off from the city center, the 360 degrees views on the top floor remain nothing short of spectacular. Three floors with beautiful lighting and a wide selection of beers and cocktails. This all comes with a price though.

Property values in Sukhumvit are among the highest in Bangkok, and accommodation is priced to match. There are plenty of four and five-star hotels that cater to those with a lot of money (including business travellers). Guest houses à la Khao San Road are hard to find, and will set you back at least twice as much.
Another market is the sex industry. Some hotels nearby Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy offer "short time" stays. This short term option is cheaper, but can only be used for a couple of hours. It is meant for sex tourists and locals who want to spend a couple of hours with their "date". These hotels generally are quite cheap, but they can feel seedy and are not recommended for overnight stays.
Many other hotels explicitly hang up signs banning sex tourists; many of these don't allow you to bring in any Thai lady (which can lead to an awkward situation if you just want to bring a friend or your Thai girlfriend), while others will allow them only if they are present with an ID card at the time of initial registration.

Budget

• De Talak Hostel

  phone: +66 8 6887-4028
  address: 14/33 Soi Phai Sing To
  A beautiful space in a converted house. It is about a 5 min walk from Khlong Toei Market. The rooms are bright and airy, and the beds are comfortable and clean. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel, and there are three computer units in the common room on the second floor. Other amenities include lockers, luggage storage, air-conditioning, big-screen TV, basic kitchen, hot showers and an outdoor dining area. Bicycles and towels for rent. The owner, Rata, and her staff are friendly and knowledgeable.

• HI-Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 3919-338
  address: 23 Sukhumvit Soi 38
  A clean hostel with a nice chill-out area and friendly staff. You can choose to sleep in a dorm or in a private room. All rooms have air-conditioning, and breakfast is included in the price.

• Pridi Hostel

  phone: +66 8 9103-1388
  address: 71 Pridi Soi 35
  Pridi Hostel is a new family-run establishment in a recently renovated building in central Sukhumvit. It is clean, has bathroom and shower facilities, and serves a nice breakfast of fruit and toast. There is a small convenience store with snacks and smoothies on the ground floor, and a lounge area with cable TV, internet terminals and a sofa. There are private rooms and dorms available. Nalin, a Thai woman who speaks English, runs the day-to-day business and happily advises where to go.

• Royal Express Inn Bangkok

  phone: +66 2 251-5615
  address: 4/3, Soi Sukhumvit 8, Sukhumvit Rd
  New inn with 19 cheerful, modern, & cozy rooms, with all rooms featuring a comfy king size-bed, wall-mounted flat screen TV, en suite bathroom & Wi-Fi.

• Soi 1 Guesthouse

  phone: +66 2 655-0604
  address: 220/7 Sukhumvit Soi 1
  This is one of the best backpacker hostels in the Sukhumvit area. There are 4-bed and 8-bed mixed and female-only dorm rooms, as well as 3- or 4-bed private rooms with shared baths. All rooms have air-conditioning. The dorms have a very social atmosphere, so this is not just a place to sleep, but to meet and hang out with other travellers (and the owner, an American called David who has lived in Bangkok for 15 years). Don't expect to sleep: people will turn on the light and ask you to come along with them to party. If that's not for you, then you're best off at another hotel. There is a 24-hour reception, common room, bar with food served, pool table, Internet (1 baht/minute). The Wi-Fi, lockers and long-term storage are free of charge. The owner arranges, on request, pub crawls and enjoys taking groups of guys out to Soi Cowboy. His advice is sage. Read his 4-page treatise on how to spot a ladyboy, which is pinned in the bar toilet. A downside is the price of the beer, which is three times the price paid at the 7-Eleven 10 m away, and bringing outside drinks in is forbidden.

• Som's Guesthouse

  phone: +66 2 259-1043
  address: 295/13-14 Sukhumvit Soi 22
  A basic guest house with nine rooms that have cable TV, fridge and hot shower. Six of them have air-conditioning, while the other three only have a fan. Furniture looks shabby and old, but it suffices if you're on a budget.

• Star Inn Hotel

  phone: +66 2 651-0761
  address: 131/40-41 Sukhumvit Soi 7/1
  A "short time" or "long time" hotel with friendly staff. Rooms are simple, but equipped with a DVD player, air-conditioning, double to king-size bed and mini-fridge. There is a well-equipped bar in the lobby and the restaurant offers barbecue dinners every night with good chefs. Lots of drunk foreigners get dragged in and out by their Thai "dates" here all-day. The bar next door has live music until about 04:00, which can make sleeping a challenge.

• Star Light Hotel

  phone: +66 2 258-2272
  address: 81 Sukhumvit Soi 22
  This is an old, no-frills Thai-Chinese hotel near Washington Square. As is usual, there are "short time" and overnight options. Rooms for both these types have air-conditioning. Don't expect anything more than just a cheap room.

• Royal Asia Lodge

  phone: +66 2 251-5514
  address: 91 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  This is quite a simple hotel that just gets the job done for a lower mid-range price. Furniture looks old, the faucet needs to be fixed and the swimming pool is small. As it is about 800 metres from the main road, it is quieter and cheaper than other hotels. To make up for the distance, there is a complimentary tuk-tuk service that runs to Sukhumvit Road 24 hours a day.

• Royal Ivory

  phone: +66 2 656-7517
  address: 73 Sukhumvit Soi 4
  This hotel is mid-way along Soi 4, but still a 10-15 minutes walk from the main road: if you're too lazy than there is a free shuttle service. The rooms are surprisingly spacious and quiet, which given its location is a plus, but they look a little run down. air-conditioning and TV with satellite TV channels. The pool is small, but OK for a quick dip. The restaurant has a large TV screen, a pool table and serves good local food. Near the sleazy Nana Entertainment Plaza, so there are lots of Western men with bar girls around.

Mid-range

There is plenty of good quality, mid-range accommodation on Sukhumvit. It is possible to book on a weekly basis and get a large discount at many places.

• Ambassador Hotel

  phone: +66 2 254-0444
  address: 171 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  The hotel is very big with 750 rooms. Rooms in the tower wing (2,400 baht) has a better view, but the rooms in the main wing are cheaper (1,600 baht). Rooms look a bit worn, but it seems renovation is in progress. No in-room safe. The pool on the roof is especially nice.

• The Davis

  phone: +66 2 260-8000
  address: 88 Sukhumvit Soi 24
  Run by massage parlour magnate-cum-politician Chuwit Kamolsivit, this is one of the best deals in Bangkok. A new boutique hotel at lower splurge prices (1,400 baht/night for a month's stay). Each room is furnished differently yet tastefully. The primary negative is the location very deep down Soi 24, quite a hike (15-20 minutes) from Sukhumvit itself.

• Dynasty Inn

  phone: +66 2 252-4522
  address: 5/4-5 Nanatai
  A few metres from the better known Nana Hotel. Free Wi-Fi, excellent coffee shop, on-site travel agent and beauty salon.

• Ever Rich Inn

  phone: +66 2 253-4250
  address: 113 Sukhumvit Rd
  A nice, small, quiet and clean hotel only metres from the Nana BTS station escalator. The best and largest rooms are at either end of the building (either facing Sukhumvit or facing north) as these have windows. Rooms without a window are 200 baht cheaper.

• Kingston Suites

  phone: +66 2 120-8288
  address: 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15
  Classic looking rooms and very spacious with all the mod-cons expected. As it is off the main road, it makes for a quiet stay. There's limited choice for breakfast, but the buffet is good.

• Legacy Express

  phone: +66 2 655-7474
  address: 29 Sukhumvit Rd
  This luxury hotel has 63 big rooms with jazzy colours, an LCD TV and a bathroom. There is a 7-Eleven on the ground floor as well as a small restaurant. "Short stay" also available.

• Majestic Suites

  phone: +66 2 656-8220
  address: 110-110/1 Sukhumvit Rd
  This hotel is directly around the corner from Nana Entertainment Plaza and close to the BTS station. The rooms are modern and well-maintained, but some people may find the "single studio" rooms for 1,350 baht small. There is ample space for 100 baht more in the "single superior" rooms. Free internet. Not to be confused with the newer, larger and pricier Majestic Grande nearby on Soi 2, although they share ownership and guests at the Suites can get a pass to use the pool and health club at the Grande.

• Nana Hotel

  phone: +66 2 255-2525
  address: 21/4 Sukhumvit Soi 4
  A relic of the past. The kind of place that still has sand-filled ashtrays dotted around the entrance, the lobby, at each elevator. The rooms are quiet, clean, pleasantly decorated, and serviced daily. There's an antiquated bathroom with atrocious plumbing, refrigerator, in-room safe and TV. In-house bar and disco. It is a decent lower-end option, if you are not bothered by the nearby hotspots for sex tourism, and staying in a hotel that also offers an hourly rate. Very good breakfast buffet free with room and great swimming pool. Wi-Fi is 300 baht for a 24 hr, 60 baht for 1 hr.

• On8 Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 254-8866
  address: 160/1-162 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  The staff are friendly, almost like a small family. Decent breakfast and the menu whilst small is varied. Plenty to keep you busy around the hotel with a night market, spas, local restaurants and pubs. Free internet.

• Salil Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 8

  phone: +66 2 253-2474)
  address: 50, 50/1 Sukhumvit Soi 8
  This is a small and stylish boutique hotel in the Nana area of Sukhumvit. It has all the modern room facilities you'd expect, including TV, air-conditioning and a water boiler for noodles or tea. There's no lift, so good luck carrying your luggage upstairs. Breakfast is included.

• Salil Hotel Thonglor Soi 1

  phone: +66 2 662-5480
  address: 44/14-17 Sukhumvit Soi 53
  A boutique hotel in the Thong Lo area with 40 rooms that are decorated in colour-vintage style. Air-conditioning, fridge, free WiFi, LCD TV, DVD player, hairdryer, mini bar and safe. It is close to Thong Lo's BTS station and the party areas of Soi 55 and 63. Inclusive of breakfast.

• Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn

  phone: +66 2 714-0703
  address: 123 Sukhumvit Soi 57
  Sawasdee has many different discount offers, it's quite a trouble to figure it out, but you might save a bit. It is a basic no-frills hotel on the lower end of the mid-range price category. It has 44 decent rooms with air-conditioning, a large bed and windows. They offer good service and the atmosphere overall is relaxed. The coin-operated internet terminals in the lobby cost 10 baht for 15 minutes.

• Swiss Park Hotel

  phone: +66 2 254-0228
  address: 155/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  This is a well-managed hotel with clean and comfortable rooms. Rooms numbered up to 6 on each floor are more desirable as they have a view, while the others look out onto a building site that seems to have ground to a halt. Free WiFi in the lobby.

• Woraburi Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 656-7029
  address: 128/1 Sukhumvit Soi 4
  This is a decent and clean lower-end hotel with a swimming pool. It is at the end of the soi, but that's actually a good thing as it's quieter than other hotels in the area. If you order more night at once, they give you a discount. Also, if you order from Booking.com, you can save 200 baht per night compared to booking from the hotel's own website.

• Omni Tower Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 656-8300
  address: 69 Sukhuvmit Soi 4
  100 studios and suites with TV with satellite channels, Internet and a kitchenette.

• Maitria Hotel Sukhumvit 18

  phone: +66 2302 5777
  address: 26 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey
  This is a boutique hotel with 1- and 2-bedrooms and suites. The hotel also provides high-speed internet, satellite TV, a rooftop plunge pool, fitness centre and dining. A coin-operated launderette is available in the basement level.

Splurge

Several of Bangkok's luxury hotels are concentrated on and near Sukhumvit. To splurge in Bangkok is cheaper than you initially think. Your options include:

• Amari Boulevard (now known as the Boulevard Hotel)

  phone: +66 2 255-2930
  address: 2 Sukhumvit Soi 5
  A distinctively triangle-shaped and conveniently located four-star hotel with two wings, the Krung Thep wing being newer, better and pricier than the older musty Siam wing. Service is not great and every time you exit the hotel you are assaulted by taxi cab drivers and prostitutes. There may be better choices on Sukhumvit Road, but assuming that you've not come to this part of Bangkok for a quiet 'get away from it all' break, the location is great. It is right in the thick of the action, with many of Sukhumvit's attractions a short stroll away.

• The Continent Hotel

  phone: +66 2 686-7000
  address: 413 Sukhumvit Rd

• JW Marriott Hotel

  phone: +66 2 656-7700
  address: 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2
  Marriott's flagship in Bangkok, a very short block from Nana Plaza (which explains the colourful clientele). Opened in 1997 and decorated in Thai style, complete with bellboys wearing pith helmets and funny trousers.

• Park Plaza Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 263-5000
  address: 16 Ratchadaphisek Rd
  The rooms are nice, clean and spacious. There's a swimming pool at the top of the hotel, from which you have stunning views of Bangkok. Free WiFi throughout the hotel and an extensive breakfast is included in the price.

• President Palace Hotel

  phone: +66 2 120-8888
  address: 18 Sukhumvit Soi 11
  A new modern hotel on the trendy Sukhumvit Soi 11, close to all the action, shopping and nightlife. Spacious, comfy and clean rooms, generally with a good view. There's an excellent poolside area with plenty of deck chairs for lounging, although the sun is blocked by a large building most of the day. The Splash Bar by the pool serves nice drinks and the breakfasts are varied. If you're a football fan, there is a Manchester United Restaurant and Bar at the hotel, but if not, plenty of restaurants and bars are within walking distance.

• Solitaire Hotel

  phone: +66 2 081 3999
  address: 75/23 Klongtoey-Nua Sukhumvit Soi 11
  A splendidly quiet and luxury retreat. It has spacious rooms with extremely comfy beds along with large 42" TVs and a kitchenette. You can treat yourself to a massage at the Ananda Spa. Free WiFi throughout the hotel. There's also a free tuk-tuk shuttle service to Nana and Asok BTS stations. A downer if that it's often not possible to book just one night (must be two or more).

• S15 Sukhumvit Hotel

  phone: +66 2 651-2000
  address: 217 Sukhumvit Soi 15
  This boutique hotel is right in the middle of Sukhumvit. It's not particularly big, but looks very good. It has a professional atmosphere in an informal way, friendly and relaxing. The restaurant is good too, although choice is a little limited. No pool, but offers a compact gym with steam and sauna.

• Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 649-8888
  address: 250 Sukhumvit Rd
  High rise five-star hotel ideally located right by Asok BTS station with a walkway connecting the station directly to the hotel. Expect all the usual five-star facilities, including some superb restaurants such as the renowned Italian restaurant Rossini's.

• Westin Grande Sukhumvit

  phone: +66 2 207-8000
  address: 259 Sukhumvit Rd
  Like the Sheraton, the Westin is part of the prestigious Starwood group of hotels. Probably not quite as opulent as the Sheraton, but also noted for some fine dining at the excellent Japanese restaurant, Kisso.

• Emporium Suites by Chatrium

  phone: +66 2664-9999
  address: 622, Sukhumvit Soi24, Klongton, Klongtoey
  This hotel is located above Emporium shopping complex with 378 rooms and suites and provides separate kitchenettes or kitchens. Chinese cuisine is served at the Emporia restaurant, The pool bar provides a variety of cocktails.The hotel also feature a business centre, fitness centre, lobby lounge, swimming pool, spa and event spaces.

Sukhumvit is packed with Internet cafés, pubs and bars offering free Wi-Fi and computer access at rates as low as 0.5 baht/minute. Trying to print something will probably shed a whole new light on your experience. Be wary of key loggers which reputedly are epidemic at Thai Internet cafés. There have also been cases where memory cards get infected with a virus when plugged into an Internet café computer.

• If you came here for Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza, Soi Patpong in Silom offers more of the same. If you just came out of Long Table and want to continue your night the superhip way, Silom is also the way to go.
• Unlike most foreign travellers, the locals tend to go out in Ratchadaphisek. You might want to check out Royal City Avenue (often abbreviated as RCA), an entertainment paradise with bars, clubs and theatres, or one of Ratchada's popular sois.
• Quite similar to Sukhumvit and right next to it is Siam Square, Bangkok's hippest shopping and entertainment district. It is only 10 minutes away by Skytrain.
• Going east on Sukhumvit Road (Hwy 3) will take you across the town border to Samut Prakan with sights like Erawan Museum and Ancient Siam only 100 m off the highway. If you push onward you will end up in Pattaya and finally in Trat near the border of Cambodia.