Berlin/Treptow-Köpenick
Understand
Adlershof is notable mostly for two things, these days: It contains quite a bit of TV (e.g. the popular political Talk Show "Anne Will" is shot there) and it contains the sprawling and expanding
WISTA Science and Technology Park
Der Hauptmann von Köpenick
These days, Köpenick is not exactly a household name among Germans, as the quiet outlying district of Berlin is not exactly famous for much. If Germans do know it, then for a bizarre episode in local history turned into multiple works of theater, film and literature by big names of German cultural production of the 20th century. The down on his luck shoemaker and small-time criminal Friedrich Wilhelm Voigt (born 1849), who by the year 1906 had tried to make an honest living but faced the bizarre regulations of his day that barred an ex-con from living basically anywhere (in the most famous play, he is presented as being unable to get a residence permit because he has no job and unable to get a job because he has no residence permit - a Catch 22 avant la lettre). Thus, he decided to run his most famous con of them all, with a used military uniform and his acquired knowledge of military customs and forms he stopped a group of Prussian soldiers, ordering them to follow him before he took them by train to (the then independent city of) Köpenick. There, he had the mayor arrested "on highest orders", and "confiscated" the municipal treasury - a value of some 4000 mark - duly noted with a receipt exact to the last pfennig, which Voigt signed in the name of his former jail director. While Voigt escaped with no-one the wiser, he was ultimately caught and sentenced to four years in prison. However, the German press loved his exploits, and even Kaiser Wilhelm II is said to have been sympathetic, so he was pardoned. Voigt would manage to capitalize on his fame, and lived a mostly uneventful (and non-criminal) life until his death in Luxembourg in 1922. German playwright Carl Zuckmayer would turn the story into a play in 1931, which was, of course, much more than just a "funny story", given the rise of the uniformed Nazis and his treatment of the Catch-22 that led Voigt to his act. It is this treatment that many subsequent movie adaptations, including a 1956 one with Heinz Rühmann and a 1997 one with Harald Juhnke, are based on. Today, a statue of the Hauptmann stands in front of the Rathaus (city hall) of Köpenick, the site of his most famous exploit.The play, as well as subsequent discussions, but also foreign (particularly English) press at the time, like to emphasize the militaristic element of the story and the "unquestioning obedience" that a mere uniform commands. One line, repeated over and over in different contexts in the play, is "(Wo) hamse jedient?" - "(Where) did you serve?" (i.e. in the military), with the implication that a man's social station depends on nothing more than on their military service and career. Every retelling also made Voigt out to be more of a "tragic hero" and "noble thief" than the actual events would indicate.
Get in
This area is one of the largest in Berlin entirely devoid of U-Bahn service. However, there is (as is common in the former East) quite a bit of S-Bahn and an extensive Tram network.
By S-Bahn
Treptow is best accessed by S-Bahn lines , , , and . The most important station isTo get into Köpenick take the to or the to and consider taking one of the many trams to the old town and the old palace.
To get to the Müggelsee take the to or to and if you want to round it you will have to use the of the BVG and ferry line F23 or F24.
To get to the Langer See lake take the S8,9,45,46 or 85 to and then Tram 68.
To get from to the Treptow-Köpenick area, and are most likely your best bet.
By tram
Perhaps the most picturesque line in the city, known to transit system officials as "the most beloved tram line in Germany" due to its customers' passionate opposition to reducing service, is Line 68. In off-seasons it has more scenery than people, but when hot weather comes its lakeshore meanderings and the tiny, "gemütlich" village of Alt-Schmöckwitz at the line's outer terminal draw so many customers that extra trams are pressed into service. Line 68 may be best accessed at the Berlin-Grünau S-Bahn station, where all types of convenience food and shopping are available.
Beyond the village center and tram terminal, a large forested area of lakefront parkland offers hiking and bicycling possibilities. This was once the home neighborhood for expatriate American, international music and film star Dean Reed. The Line 68 tram had one brief moment of glory, in 1936. In its former incarnation as Line 86 it was the best route to the Olympic rowing events and some structures, street names, etc., still reflect that high point.
By bicycle
The German Bicycle Route D3 (which runs along the European Bicycle Route R1) runs directly through this district. It goes through Treptower Park, the old town of Köpenick and near the southern side of Müggelsee.See
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address: Rudower Chausee/Newtonstraße, 12489 BerlinThis aeronautical experimental park on the grounds of Germany's first air field Johannisthal consists of a group of several individual technical monuments such as the walkable Großer Windkanal (High-speed wind channel, 1932–34), the Trudelturm (Fatty tower), a vertical wind tunnel for spinning tests (1934–36), the Schallgedämpfter Motorenprüfstand (Sound-insulated engine test bed, 1933–35) and the Isothermische Kugellabore (Adlershofer Busen, Isothermal spheric laboratories, 1959–1961), which are about 500 metres away from the other monuments.
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address: Regattastraße 211, 12527 BerlinThe 2000 meters long regatta course at the Langer See lake in Grünau was an official site of the Olympic Games 1936. The first rowing regatta took place here on 27 June 1880.
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phone: +49 30 651 7171address: Möllhausenufer 30, 12555 BerlinThis public lido at Langer See which opened in 1915 offers a pleasant sand beach, an art exhibition, beach volleyball courts and a fantastic view onto the regatta course on the other shore.
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Nazi Forced Labor Documentation Center
phone: +49 30 6390 2880address: Britzer Straße 5, 12439 BerlinThe Schöneweide forced labor camp (GBI-Lager 75/76) on Britzer Straße is a complete ensemble, which makes it a rather unusual site in Berlin. Of the original thirteen housing barracks erected between 1943 and 1945, eleven are still standing today. Six barracks on the western part of the former camp grounds belong to the Documentation Center on Nazi Forced Labor.
Treptow
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phone: +49 30 536 063 719address: Alt-Treptow 1The longest moving refracting telescope is 21 meters long with a lens diameter of 68 centimetres. This giant telescope was built in 1896 by Dr. Freidrich Simon Archenhold but is now part of the Deutsches Technikmuseum Berlin. It was the place where Albert Einstein presented his Theory of Relativity to the public in 1915.
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Soviet War Memorial
phone: +49 30 25002333address: PuschkinalleeIn Treptower Park, a huge memorial and the surrounding war cemetery for 5,000 of the Red Army soldiers fallen during the Battle of Berlin. Distinctive Soviet realism features, with its iconic statue of a Red Army soldier standing proudly over a broken Nazi swastika. -
address: Wasserweg, 12435 BerlinThis abandoned amusement park with its iconic large Ferris wheel openend in the German Democratic Republic in 1969. After its closing in 2002 the rotting theme park and its apocalyptic atmosphere became a target of international media coverage, amongst others by the New York Times. In 2016 it was announced that the venue will be restored an reopen as an art and culture park.
Köpenick
Altstadt KöpenickThe old town of Köpenick is surrounded by water. Especially noteworthy are the Köpenick Palace which houses a museum of applied art and the Neogothic town hall.
Schloss KöpenickThe charming Baroque water palace of the Hohenzollern electors surrounded by the Dahme river and an English garden.
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phone: +49 30 6 55 73 61address: Schloßinsel 1, 12557 BerlinIn the Köpenick Palace.
Müggelsee
Berliner BürgerbräuThe building of one of Berlin’s oldest breweries is a ravishingly beautiful and heritage-protected industrial monument.
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address: Josef-Nawrocki-Straße, 12587 BerlinThis heritage-protected 120 meters long pedestrian tunnel below the river Spree was the first ferro-concrete tunnel in Germany that has been built using pneumatic caissons. Two beaches can be accessed via the tunnel which are not far from its south entrance.
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address: Hinter der Düne 8, 12559 BerlinThe "Small Müggelsee" is southeast of the "Large Müggelsee". Its sloping sand beach, which is called Strandbad Kleiner Müggelsee is one of the most popular bathing beaches in this southeast corner of Berlin, if not the most popular.
MüggelseeBerlin's biggest lake and popular resort for bathing and watersports. You can also travel there by tram, which is an experience by itself.
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phone: +49 30 94380701address: Straße zum Müggelturm 1An observation tower without an elevator in Southeast Berlin, from which you can see that there is a great deal of forest around Berlin. There is a cafe at the tower.
NeuvenedigA beautiful landscape of water canals and vegetation with charming little fish restaurants.
Do
Treptower ParkNice and clean park next to the Spree. Famous for the Insel der Jugend (Isle of Youth) and its numerous boat rentals and boat trips.
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address: Strasse zum FEZ 2, 12459 Berlin-OberschöneweideWhile the former Palast der Republik in Berlin-Mitte has been demolished in favor of the reconstruction of the Berliner Schloss, its counterpart for kids, pupils and "young pioneers", the Pionierpalast Ernst Thälmann can still be seen at the Volkspark Wuhlheide. The large building complex which was built from 1976 to 1979 is a contemporary testimony for architecture in the socialist German Democratic Republic and of the 1970s. It included a cosmonaut training center, a large indoor swimming pool, a theater, restaurants, event locations, and a launch site for model rockets. Today it is called FEZ Berlin and the usage as a center for kids, the youth and families remains the same, with most of the original facilities such as the indoor swimming pool and the space flight training center still in place.
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phone: +49 30 8871 60770address: Strasse zum FEZ 4 (An der Wuhlheide), 12459 Berlin-OberschöneweideThe Kindl-Bühne Wuhlheide is a cultural heritage site and of Berlin's largest and most popular open-air stages for rock, pop and electronic concerts in the shape of an ancient amphitheater.
- Watch association football i.e. soccer at FC Union Berlin. They were promoted in 2019 and now play in Bundesliga, the top tier of German association football. Their home ground is the Stadion An der Alten Försterei ("stadium at the old forester's house"), capacity 22,000. It's southeast of city centre near Berlin-Köpenick S-bahn station.
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Badeschiff
address: Eichenstraße 4An old cargo ship hull converted to a fresh-water swimming pool, anchored permanently on the river Spree. Provides a nice opportunity to swim on the Spree, without actually swimming in the river itself, which is far too polluted. A bar with disco DJ music is situated just next to the pool. In winter time, the pool is covered against the weather. -
phone: +49 30 65013141This is an ancient cinema which opened in 1913 in a former ballroom. After WWII it was repaired improvisationally and only had one cinema hall, but today it has 3 modernized halls and also offers a bar, a bistro and a bookable dance hall for parties. Independent and kid's movies.
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address: Ferry Terminal Kruggasse, 12589 BerlinMake a crossing with the only human-powered ferry run by Berlin's public transport company BVG. The F24 is operated with a rowing boat, and you can use your valid BVG ticket or buy a ticket on site. It needs 12 strokes of an oar to cross the Müggelspree river.
Go on the waterRent a motor boat, rowing boat, canoe or kayak and explore the Müggelspree, Dahme, Müggelsee, Langer See, Seddinsee or Dämeritzsee and the various channels which connect these waters.
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phone: +49 30 2217 1647address: Fürstenwalder Damm 838, 12589 BerlinThe history of this heritage-protected public bathing beach at Müggelsee traces back to the 1910s. It has a more than 500 meters long beach and a capacity for 25,000 guests.
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phone: +49 30 6559192An open-air event in the old town of Köpenick that takes place every year for a weekend once in spring (around end of April) and once in summer (around August). Wineries from (mostly) Germany bring their wine which you get to enjoy at a moderate price. There are also food stalls.
Buy
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phone: +49 30 6566 840address: Bahnhofstraße 33–38, 12555 BerlinLarge and modern shopping center which houses 140 shops as well as restaurants, dentists and a post office.
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phone: +49 30 8182990address: Rudower Chaussee 12, 12489 BerlinWhile Adlershof is no tourist destination per se, you might arrive at Germany's largest science and business compound WISTA when you are a student, visiting researcher or businessman. This large supermarket on two floors is a good place to buy food supplies for your trips and excursions to southern Berlin.
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phone: +49 30 53633900address: Am Treptower Park 14, 12435 BerlinShopping center which houses about 50 shops, services and a pharmacy.
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phone: +49 172 3035775address: Eichenstraße 4, 12435 BerlinHuge indoor flea market
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phone: +49 30 6322 3260address: Schnellerstraße 21, 12439 BerlinShopping center right at the S-Bahn station Schöneweide which houses about 30 shops, services, a pharmacy, a Media Markt consumer electronics discounter and some restaurants and bistros.
Eat
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phone: +49 30 6364729address: Sterndamm 65A coffeeshop/restaurant where you can have great coffee, house-made excellent ice cream and cakes, and great food from a short but just as excellent menu, and all that in a wonderful ambiente. Nestled in a corner of Johannisthal, part of Schoeneweide, which is a subsection of Treptow.
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phone: +49 30 53216 490address: Bulgarische Str., 12435 BerlinThis firmly anchored restaurant ship is certainly one of the most beautiful venues for having dinner in Treptow and Berlin.
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phone: +49 30 64329777address: Alt-Köpenick 20Friendly service, delicious German/Italian food and a great view over the Dahme and the Spree both from inside and outside on the big wooden terrace.
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address: Dorfstraße 13, 12589 BerlinThis fishery right next to the ferry terminal offers fresh and smoked fish catched in Müggelsee since more than 35 years.
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phone: +49 30 659 82 47address: Neuhelgoländer-Weg 1, 12559 BerlinOne of Berlin's most beautiful waterside restaurants with over 100 years of tradition. Regular events such as concerts and comedy, often with popular East German bands. Locals usually arrive by boat.
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phone: +49 30 65661688-0address: Müggelheimer Damm 143, 12559 BerlinThis waterside restaurant with beer garden named after the folklore mountain spirit is one of the best-known and oldest at Müggelsee and offers delicious meals, dinner events, weddings and an ice skating rink in winter.
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phone: +49 30 674 9817address: Zum Schmetterlingshorst 2, 12559 BerlinThis history of this cozy pub for hikers, sportsmen and day-trippers at Langer See and its butterfly collection can be traced back to the year 1898.
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Westernrestaurant Richtershorn am See
phone: +49 30 6759924address: Sportpromenade 15, 12527 BerlinOld style Western restaurant at the waterside with a log cabin, outdoor terrace, dancehall, wharf, zoo and winter garden as well as a beautiful view over the Langer See lake.
Drink
Cafés
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phone: +49 30 6452454address: Bölschestraße 89This tradition-rich confectionery and café which was founded in 1906 offers backed goods, cookies and cakes from Saxony as well as coffee. Regular events such as readings take place at the café.
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phone: +49 30 65018585address: Schlossinsel 1Both inside and outside are beautiful places to have a glass of wine or beer or a cup of coffee with a whipped cream cake. Also have menus for lunch and dinner.
Clubs & bars
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phone: +49 30 533 2030address: Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 BerlinThis techno club is located within a raw and run-down old boiler room of 500 square meters which provides the perfect atmosphere for hard industrial techno. It has one dance floor and two bars and an impressive light installation at the ceiling. Next to the club, the huge Arena Berlin compound also includes a larger multipurpose hall of 6,500 square meters which hosts events such as concerts, fashion shows and conventions, a glass house for further events and a bar.
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phone: +49 30 695 18942address: Am Flutgraben 1, 12435 BerlinAtmospheric club at the waterside well-known for minimal techno, house and techno-house and high-grade DJ bookings. Originally only a summer venue, it now also has an indoor winter location at the MS Hoppetosse excursion ship which is docked nearby.
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phone: +49 030 25041426address: An den Treptowers 10Open-air techno club and beer garden right at the Elsenbrücke bridge which is made out of shipping containers and has a wooden floor and stage and a large sound system. Subsidiary of the Wilde Renate club.
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phone: +49 030 65887825address: Freiheit 15, 12555 BerlinClub location and beautiful beer garden at the waterside in Köpenick. The party area also includes a concert location on a former cargo ship on the water, a dance club called Pop.arty and a bar called Duke bar.
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phone: +49 30-61 07 43 09address: Schlesischen Tor 2Bar directly located at the river on a ponton with good food and drinks, good for chilling.
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phone: +49 30 533 7370address: Alt-Treptow 14–17, 12435 BerlinRestaurant with beer garden and live music venue where Jazz and Swing bands perform regularly. It is one of the successors of the legendary Eierschale Jazz club which was located in Berlin-Dahlem from 1956 to 2000.
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phone: +49 30 695 18942address: Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 BerlinThis is a club for minimal techno and house located on a permanently docked excursion ship on the Spree river, the MS Hoppetosse. It is the winter venue for the Club der Visionäre. It has one dance floor and a Martion Bullfrog sound system.
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address: Alt-Treptow 6Club on the Insel der Jugend island on the Spree river with three floors, music varies from reggae to techno to indie to gothic.
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address: Rummelsburger Landstraße 2–12Techno festivals, raves and beach bars right at the waterside and the old Rummelsburg power plant.
Sleep
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phone: +49 30 67822-0address: Rudower Chaussee 15This hotel is recommended for researchers and businessmen visiting the science and business compound WISTA in Adlershof. But note that it usually takes around 45 minutes from here to the inner city (Berlin East) by using public transport.
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phone: +49 30 97 80 88 88address: Müggelheimer Damm 145, 12559 BerlinThis conference and wellness hotel with 172 rooms at the Müggelsee is embedded by woodland and parks. This hotel is recommended for nature lovers and sports fans who want to discover the Müggelsee and the surrounding lakes and take time out from the trouble of the city.