Bonavista

Bonavista is where modern North America began. On June 24th 1497, Giovani Caboto (John Cabot), an Italian explorer sailing under the British flag for King Henry VII, made landfall in the New World. "O Buona Vista," meaning "Oh Happy Sight," he was said to exclaim after nearly two months at sea. News of the existence of this New Found Land—and the riches of the Grand Bank fishery—spread throughout Europe after Cabot's return journey across the Atlantic.
In the last decade of the 19th century, Bonavista was a booming town that serviced the 20,000 people living on the peninsula. Long a regional centre for the cod fishing industry, the closure of the fishery in 1992 saw Bonavista's population of approximately 6,500 cut in half to its present population of 3,500.
Today Bonavista is experiencing a resurgence thanks to a sustainable snow crab fishery and a booming tourism sector. It is home to some of the friendliest folk in Newfoundland, and boasts several of the province's most important historic sites. Be prepared to get engaged in long and wide-ranging conversations. As tourism is a major industry, and wanes during the winter, many businesses are closed November–April, or longer. But in July and August, things are in full swing.

Many visitors travel to Newfoundland via the ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia to either the Town of Port aux Basques on Newfoundland's southwest coast, or to the terminus in Argentia (Seasonal) near St John's. You can also travel here via a number of international airlines which travel to St. John's International Airport, or a few regional airlines that fly to Gander.

By car

There are three access points to the Bonavista Peninsula in order to get to the Town of Bonavista. The most western access junction is at Port Blandford (Route 233), the Bonavista Overpass (Route 230), or at the Town of Clarenville (Route 230-A). St John's is about 3½ hr away, while Gander is about 3h away.

By public transport

• Shirran's TaxiOperates the only public transport to Bonavista. With advance reservation you can be picked up or dropped off anywhere in either city or along the route.

By thumb

Hitchhiking in rural Newfoundland is relatively easy, though of questionable legality. It is pleasant when the weather is nice. Friendly locals and eager tourists often cover long distances. Be prepared to wait if stopping in an area with little traffic.See Hitchwiki for more.

Bonavista is a pedestrian's delight. The gentle topography is appealing but it is the rich cultural landscape which makes for enjoyable walking in the community.
There is a complex network of roads and laneways connecting the central area of the town known as the Harbour and Church Street to various sections of the community bearing age old names such as Canaille, Mockbeggar, Rolling Cove, Red Point, Bayley's Cove and Bakeapple Marsh. This all makes Bonavista a superb place to wander.
As the topography is relatively flat, traffic is light, drivers are courteous, and even more distant sites are seldom more than a few kilometres apart, travel by bicycle is also pleasant.

Most visitors to Bonavista come for the scenery, the cultural history, and the chance to view rare North Atlantic wildlife:
Iceberg season begins as the arctic sea ice melts, and winds and currents blow broken glacier chunks south along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts. Since Bonavista is a north-facing town on a long peninsula, icebergs are easily trapped in its vicinity. At peak iceberg season in May and June, dozens of icebergs can be spotted from shore or from nearly any scenic viewpoint (see below).
Puffins can theoretically be found all along the coast, though in practice, they're rather elusive. A marine bird, they only come to shore to breed and raise their young, which they do in earthen burrows. This tends to take place between roughly mid-April and mid-August. Since they also go back to sea to fish, the best time to spot them on the Bonavista cape is in the evenings, beginning a few hours before sunset, when they come back to feed their young and rest.
Twenty-two species of whale call Newfoundland home at various points in the year, returning in cyclical migrations to fish its rich fish stocks. With a little bit of patience and a lot of luck, they can be spotted from any vantage point with a view of the sea. In Bonavista, they've even been known to come right into the inner harbour! In practice though, it's exceptionally rare to spot them without a boat.

Scenic viewpoints

• The Dungeon Provincial ParkOne of Newfoundland's smallest provincial parks, the highlight is an oceanside sinkhole penetrated by waves that pass through two openings in a gigantic archway. A frequent stop for tour busses, but otherwise you generally have the place to yourself.

• White Rock Lookout

  address: 18 White Rock Rd
  Visible from basically everywhere, the highest point in town is punctuated by a large silo that was painted with a blue mural in preparation for Queen Elizabeth II's arrival in 1997 in honour of the 500th anniversary of Cabot's voyage. A good place to get your bearings and to watch for big icebergs.

• Bayview HillThe site of a weather station and the second highest point in Bonavista, Bayview Hill has a 360-degree view of the town, the mountains, the sea in three directions, and the lighthouse. A few metres scramble from the gravel road to the top.

• Elliston Puffin Viewing PointPerched high on a cliff a few hundred metres from the nearby roadway, Elliston's puffin viewing site is supposedly the closest shore-based viewing of a puffin nesting site anywhere in the world. But it's still worth bringing your binoculars or optical zoom camera! Unlike most puffin viewing sites, these puffins are generally still visible even in the middle of the day.

• Cape Shore TrailThis pleasant trail starts from a wooden hut just outside of town and runs for 3½ km (one-way) to the lighthouse, following the beautiful shoreline and featuring occasional benches to stop for a break.

• Klondike TrailThis 3½ km (one-way) trail leads from populated Elliston to spartan Spillar's Cove, running through low hills with drawfen trees before spilling out into a golden view high on the cliffs about the sea. Consider carrying on along the cliffs beyond the trail, but watch where you step, both for your own safety, and to protect the sensitive ecosystem.

• Old Days Pond BoardwalkShort boardwalk around a shallow inlet. Catches the sea breeze and has a nice view of the historic town centre.

• Cape Bonavista LighthouseOne of Bonavista's top draws and Newfoundland's most photographed sites, the historic lighthouse includes an interpretive museum and is one of very few historic lighthouses in the world that permit entry. Your entry ticket also includes entry to the Mockbeggar Plantation. Access to the site is free, and includes a network of trails, excellent views, free binocular podiums, parking, and (in season) a puffin colony that is visible at dawn and dusk.

• Mockbegger Plantation

  phone: +1 709 468-7444
  address: Roper St
  Knowledgeable staff give tours of the family home of Newfoundland's first Canadian Senator, restored to the 1940s period. Features a stunning library/chapel. Often hosts events in summer.

• Ryan Premises

  address: 10 Ryans Hill Rd
  A National Historic Site managed by Parks Canada, the premises are a series of 19th-century buildings that once lodged the Ryan family and their cod businesses facilities. Now features a series of well presented museums and art displays.

• Matthew Legacy

  phone: +1 709 468-1493
  address: Roper St
  This building houses a small and text-heavy narrative museum about the era of Cabot's voyage, and a replica of his original ship (named Matthew) built in 1997 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Cabot's landing. While you can board the ship, due to maintenance issues, it is permanently in dry dock.

• Home from the Sea

  phone: +1 709 476-3003
  address: 5863 Main St, Elliston
  A modern multimedia museum about the realities of the early seal hunt, plus commemoration of local men who died in the hunt, and a large gallery of 20th century seal-hunt paintings.

• WWI Trench Shooting RangeFire off a weapon of your choice (up to a grenade launcher) in one of many ranges, including a World War I trench. Advance booking encouraged.

Whale watching

Three companies run whale watching tours from Bonavista port:

• Discovery Sea Adventures

  phone: +1 709 470-0322
  2½–3 hr tours aboard a zodiac, operating several times daily during peak season.

• Bonavista Puffin & Whale Tours

  phone: +1 709 468-8438
  address: 15 Roper St
  Roughly 2½ hr trips aboard a hard-hulled boat with washrooms and heated indoor seating available. Departs several times daily during peak season.

• MV Shirley R

  phone: +1 709 725-6722 or +1 709 468-5600
  Operated by the Lancaster Inn aboard a converted fishing boat. Departs twice daily in season. Follows set route: whales subject to availability.

Bonavista is noted for the authenticity of its 19th-century (and earlier, and later) outport architecture. In addition to the provincial and national historic sites listed under "Do", check out the historic churches: Memorial United Church (completed 1923; 37 Church St) and St Joseph's Catholic Church (Completed 1842; 5 Sweeneys Ln) continue to offer regular religious services, while Alexander for All Souls Mortuary Chapel (completed 1897; 70 Coster St E) can sometimes be visited as a historic site. Civil society buildings include the Orange Hall (1907; 14 Sweetland's Hill), which once had the largest membership of loyal orangemen in Canada; Court House (1900; 1 Church St), still featuring whipping post, stocks, and a cannon from World War I; the Garrick Theatre (opened 1945), which often hosts a cinema or live entertainment; and wooden Fishing Flakes, raised wooden platforms located throughout town, which were once used to store and dry salt cod.

Events

• Discovery DayIn celebration of Cabot's arrival in 1497

• The Bird Island Puffin FestivalCelebrates Elliston's culture and landscape.

• Bonavista DaysFeatures the town's annual fireworks celebration.

• Church Street FestivalFeaturing Bonavista's Mummer's Parade, a disguised Newfoundland tradition.

• Bonavista BiennialeA huge international art exhibition.

• The Roots, Rants, and Roars FestivalA celebration of food in Elliston.

Crafts and gifts

• Yellow Rose

  address: 23 Church St

• Tree Line Craft Shop

  phone: +1 709 771-6777
  address: 102 Cape Shore Rd Suite B

• Trailer Gifts

• Cabot Crafts Nonprofit

• Ryan Premises Historic Shop

  phone: +1 709 468-1600
  address: 24 Ryan's Hill Rd

• Tuckamore Discovery Puffin Shop

  phone: +1 709 468-4731
  address: 10 Bonavista Bay Hwy
  Does walking tours along with the gift shop.

• Bonavista Flowers & Gifts

  phone: +1 709 468-7100
  address: 69 Church St

• Broken Books

  address: 61 Church St

Groceries and supplies

Beer is available for purchase at any of the 3 gas stations located on the main highway at the entrance to town, or at the 3 convenience stores, located in the south, centre, and north of the town.

• Foodland Supermarket

  phone: +1 709 468-2770
  address: 143 Confederation Dr
  This mid-sized Sobey's-owned supermarket has the largest selection in town, though is still very clearly a small town grocery. There is a pharmacy in the same plaza. Buy wine and spirits at the adjoining liquor store.

• Saltbox Specialty Market

  phone: +1 709 468-1686
  address: 59 Hospital Rd, Bonavista
  Fresh local crab, lobster, and mussels.

• Swyer's

  phone: +1 709 468-7871
  address: 11 Cape Shore Rd
  Bonavista's last remaining general store, the business relocated from its original location (whose structure, now housing a hotel and restaurant, confusingly still prominently bears its name), but continues to offer fresh produce, grocery, hardware, and retail goods.

• Home Hardware

  phone: +1 709 468-7400
  address: 18 Forbes St
  A hardware and general store.

• Riff's Department Store

  phone: +1 709 468-2403
  address: 56 Church St
  A hardware and general store.

Most local restaurants are only open during the summer tourist season.

• Boreal

  phone: +1 709 476-2330
  address: 61 Church St
  The closest thing to "fine dining" in Bonavista, and what foodies would declare its best restaurant, Boreal opened in 2016 with a rotating small weekly menu of locally-inspired international dishes.

• Skipper's

  address: 42 Campbell St
  An inoffensive hotel restaurant with a good view of the inner harbour. Serves standard Canadian offerings (sandwiches, pasta, etc.) and a few Newfoundland dishes as well. Has a full bar.

• PK's Dining Room and Take-Out

  phone: +1 709 468-2828
  address: 89 Church St
  A classic Newfoundland diner with a tasteful adjoining dining room. PK's has a broad menu but specializes in seafood.

• Baie Vista

  phone: +1 709 468-5600
  address: 11 Campbell St
  A classic rural Canadian breakfast diner, which also serves lunch and dinner. Popular with seniors. Coffee is cheap and weak. Hearty food, big portions, efficient service. Shares a building with Greco's Pizza.

• Little Dairy King

  phone: +1 709 468-2820
  address: Cape Shore Rd
  Beautifully located on the cape, it serves a wide variety of good freshly prepared food, plus take-away ice cream.

• Sweet Rock Ice Cream

  phone: +1 709 476-2333
  address: 102 Church St
  An Ontario couple have settled in Newfoundland and opened this fresh and delicious ice cream parlour, specializing in local flavours. They also sell chocolates from their shop in nearby Trinity.

• Moreish Cupcake Bakery

  phone: +1 709 476-2440 or +1 709 727-8545
  address: 77 Church St
  The locals have a sweet tooth, so much so that Moreish might be the only place they're willing to queue.

• Nanny's Root Cellar Kitchen

  address: 77 Main St, Elliston
  Set inside Elliston's 19th-century Loyal Orange Lodge, Nanny's serves up classic Newfoundland dishes in big portions. A good place to try fried cod's tongue.

• Marsh's Snack Bar

  phone: +1 709 468-2639
  address: 62 Church St
  Serves pizza.

• Greco Pizza

  address: 11 Campbell St
  A pizza place.

Cafes

• Mifflin's Tea Room

  phone: +1 (709) 468-2636
  address: 21 Church St
  Cozy tea room with a big patio, ideal for warm drinks on cold days or cold drinks on warm days. Good tea, quality coffee, food served too. Jiggs Dinner available from lunchtime Sundays until sold out.

• Robin's Donuts

  phone: +1 (709) 468-7613
  address: 248 Confederation Dr
  Chain shop with a drive-through. This is where you need to go if you're a Tim Horton's addict, since the nearest Timmies is a long, long ways away.

Pubs

• Walkham's Gate Pub and Cafe

  phone: +1 709 468-7004
  address: 2 Sweetland Hill
  A dark watering hole with video lottery terminals along one wall, Walkham's long stood as Bonavista's only true pub. It occasionally gets lively for weekends and events. The adjacent cafe serves decent food, good desserts, and cheap coffee, and is generally open later than most other restaurants in town.

• Shannon's Pub and Grill

  phone: +1 306 501-1751
  address: 82 Church St
  A real Irish pub owned by a real guy from Ireland. Good craic. Opened summer 2017.

There are a number of hotels and B&Bs in Bonavista, in addition to a wide selection of vacation rental properties.

Budget

• HI-Bonavista

  address: 40 John Cabot Dr
  A clean property near the centre with free parking and Wi-Fi. Guests have access to shared toilets with hot showers, and a full kitchen. Dorms have a plug and light for each bed. Private rooms have locks, TVs, and individual thermostats. Lockers in a common space are free to use.

• Elliston Municipal ParkA field for tents, 16 serviced lots, picnic sites, washrooms, and a kitchen.

Mid-range

• White's B&B

  phone: +1 709 468-7018
  address: 21 Windlass Dr, Bonavista NL

• The Harbour Quarters Inn

  address: 42 Campbell St
  In a city filled with B&Bs, this is arguably the only true hotel. The 11-room inn is the largest in Bonavista. The building was built in 1920 and restored in 2004. Skipper's Restaurant occupies the main level of the building.

• Robbin's by the Sea

  address: 38 Ryan's Hill
  Overlooking the harbour, stunning sunset views in summer.

Cellular service is provided by Telus/Bell and their subsidiaries and network users (including Virgin, Koodo, PC Mobile, and Public Mobile). SIM cards are available at the Bell distributor, Custom Computer Centre (23 Church St). Rogers and its subsidiaries and network users (including Fido, Chatr, and 7/11 Speakout) do not have service in the Bonavista Peninsula region.
WiFi is available for customers at many restaurants and hotels.
Scotiabank (64 Church St, Bonavista) is the only bank in the area, but there are also ATMs at Walkhams Pub, Irving Gas Station, and Bonavista Convenience.
There is a full-service Canada Post in the centre of town.

• Explore Trinity and other areas of the Bonavista Peninsula
• Terra Nova National Park
• St. John's
• Twillingate
• Gander
• Saint Pierre and Miquelon