Boston/South Boston

Originally, South Boston was known as "Dorchester Neck", a small isthmus in northern Dorchester. Once all but disconnected from downtown, acres of land were created throughout the 19th century physically bringing the two towns together. This was a burgeoning area for maritime industries, and was first annexed by Boston in 1804, and then again in 1870. Southie really distinguished itself with the arrival of the Irish after the Great Famine in the mid 19th century.
The quintessential triple decker homes and their occupants of Irish decent remain. Neighbors still greet one another on the street as they go about their daily routines. But things are different now. Money abounds in this area so close to downtown Boston. Real estate developers make million dollar offers to long time residents, sight unseen. What does it matter what the insides look like when you'll be tearing the whole thing down anyway.
These trends will continue into the foreseeable future, as more of Southie has been rezoned to resemble the Seaport. In spite of these challenges, pockets of the old-time community spirit persist. Some shops and restaurants have remained popular with new residents. The St. Patrick's Day Parade continues each year. The Neighborhood character evolves as ideas from newcomers mix with the best from the old guard.

Neighborhoods

• The Seaport: No other neighborhood in Boston (and few in America) have undergone so much change in so little time. Back in 2004, the area was nothing more than acres of windswept parking lots. By 2014 those lots had been replaced by a convention center, an art gallery, scores of office and residential towers, and a mass transit system. Over a trillion dollars (yes with a t!) of new real estate washed onto the market during that decade, and continues to do so. Debate continues about whether the redevelopment of the Seaport is succeeding in turning the area into a real community. There are no grocery stores or public schools here yet, but the area and the idea is still new. Give it time to see what Boston's newest incarnation develops.
• Fort Point: Nuzzled in below the Seaport, think of Fort Point as its older, smaller brother. When the manufacturing industry collapsed, many beautiful brick factories along the channel were simply too big and expensive to tear down. What was bad news at the time has turned out great for today's Bostonians, as many large industrial spaces were preserved and live on today as fantastic hotels and restaurants. Just check out the cluster of interesting points around Congress and A streets.

By public transit

Red Line stations in the area are Broadway and Andrew. JFK/UMass station is in neighboring Dorchester, but is very close as well.
Silver Line bus routes SL1 and SL2 run rapid transit service run between South Station and through the seaport district. The Courthouse, World Trade Center, and Silver Line Way stations are served by both routes. The SL2 route continues its loop through South Boston stopping at Harbor St, Tide St, 23 Dry Dock Ave, 88 Black Falcon Ave, and Design Center. While the SL1 branch veers off and heads away to Logan airport.
For those trying to get deeper into South Boston, you'll need to ride the bus. Routes #5, #7, #9, #10, and #11 all start near City Point and connect to Red Line stops: South Station, Broadway, and Andrew. It's hard to overstate the impact of all the construction, and the neighborhood has been welcoming scores of new residents every month for years. While the number of commuters increases, the number of busses has not been able to keep pace with the demand. Beyond normal rush hour traffic, it can be quite difficult to board busses headed downtown in the morning, and leaving the city at night. The MBTA is working on addressing this issue, but for now plan on riding late, crowded busses.

By boat

There are actually quite a few services available along the waterfront in Southie. One of the most popular and frequent are Water Taxis. These little boats run all year round and service points of interest like The Children's Museum, the ICA, World Trade Center, and more. You'll have to call ahead in less popular locations and times. Hop aboard a real ship and take the Bay State Cruise Company's Provincetown Fast Ferry, running from the pier with the Seaport Hotel during the summer months.
Additionally, over 20 cruise lines dock their mega ships at Black Falcon Pier. During the warmer months they may arrive from ports as far as Europe and the Caribbean. Local taxis know these schedules, so you should have no problem transporting yourself and your luggage to the hotel. Smaller boats can be found at the EDIC Pier and provide service to and from the Boston Harbor Islands. Keep your eyes peeled, because this pier can easily be overlooked. It's right next to the bridge, don't walk too far down towards the enormous Black Falcon area.

By car

Many parking lots have been replaced by luxury condos, so think before you drive, especially in the seaport. There is some on street parking in the remaining industrial-feeling areas towards the center of the neighborhood, but much of it isn't any more convenient than walking from a T station. Some two way roads were converted to one way during the "snowpocalypse" events of 2015, so know your GPS directions may be incorrect. Watch for cars coming to a stop in the middle of the road, as some residents feel entitled to double park wherever they please, especially on Broadway. Don't bother trying to find parking out at Castle Island during the summer, but you might luck out if you go at odd times. In wintertime you may find "space savers" placed in shoveled out parking spots. You are legally allowed to move these items and park, but by doing so you place your vehicle at risk of being vandalized. Exit 25 of Interstate 90 and Exit 16 of Interstate 93 serve the area and are found at the extreme western edge.

• Boston Children's Museum

  phone: +1 617 426-6500
  address: 308 Congress St
  Look for the iconic milk bottle out front. The Children's Museum is the best place in the city to go with kids ranging from newborn to about 9. Featuring many interactive exhibits designed for kids, as well as the Kyoto House—a real traditional Japanese home moved from Japan to Boston. Kids love the three story climbing structure, it allows them to move around without using the boring elevator or stairs. The museum also supports fitness and environmental sustainability programs, and they even have a green roof! Definitely worthwhile if you're bringing the kids with you to Boston.

• Boston Fire Museum

  phone: +1 617 338-9700
  address: 344 Congress St
  The history of firefighting in Boston on display. Mostly artifacts from the 20th century, but a few items are much older. Only open on Saturdays, this museum is often overlooked, so you're likely to receive more of a personal tour from the staff. They're not burned out from saying the same thing over and over.

• Dorchester Heights

  phone: +1 617 242-5601
  address: 95 G St
  This is the spot from where George Washington and Henry Knox aimed their guns at the British ships occupying Boston harbor, forcing them to leave and breaking the siege. Today you will find a quiet park space with some signage, a little tower, and locals walking their dogs.

• Fort IndependenceA star fort built around 1850 to provide defenses for Boston harbor. Today, the guns are long gone, and it's a great place to go exploring. Fantastic views are rewarded to those who scale its granite walls. Even if the fort is closed, the grounds are always open. It's a great place to see families picnicking, going for a stroll around Pleasure Bay, or out flying kites in the brisk wind blowing in from the water. Kids love seeing (and hearing!) the planes up close, as they make their final approach to Logan Airport.

• Institute of Contemporary Art

  phone: +1 617 478-3100
  address: 25 Harbor Shore Drive
  Formerly located in a cramped and tiny building next to a firehouse in the Back Bay, the ICA moved to its new home in 2006. The modernist building is the first new art museum to be built in Boston in over 100 years, and allowed the ICA to launch its first permanent collection. The permanent collection is small, but there are always temporary exhibitions taking place with works from up-and-coming artists. The Water Cafe in the building features food by Wolfgang Puck Catering.

Itineraries

• Boston Harborwalk — A public walkway that follows the edge of piers, wharves, beaches, and shoreline around Boston Harbor. When completed it will extend a distance of 47 miles (76 km) from East Boston to the Neponset River.

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• Blue Hills Bank Pavilion

  phone: +1 617 728-1600
  address: 290 Northern Ave
  The acoustics aren't perfect at this live event venue that seats 5000, but the location more than makes up for it. Feel the cool breeze rolling in off the ocean and smell the salt air while the band plays on. Speaking of cool breezes, avoid this place during the colder months, it's a big glorified tent after all.

• Boston Convention and Exhibition Center

  phone: +1 617 954-2000
  address: 415 Summer St
  Fantastically enormous indoor space holding showcases, expos, and other conventions all year long. Hosts everything from mega productions like PAX East, Boston Tattoo Convention, and Anime Boston. To smaller, quirkier events like Berklee Jazz Festival and the Harvard Model UN opening ceremonies.

• Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum

  phone: +1 617 338-1773
  address: 306 Congress St
  Listen to colonial music while you climb aboard 18th century ships afloat in Boston Harbor. Once aboard historical re-enactors teach you about the original tea party, and let you "toss the tea into the sea". These interactive participatory tours last about an hour. Be prepared to wait to get into this very popular and widely regarded tourist attraction.

• Lawn on D

  phone: +1 617 393-3393
  address: 420 D St
  A fun outdoor space with food trucks, adult beverages, musicians and other performances. Originally dreamed up as a temporary event spot to "build community" while awaiting the necessary permitting to build another luxury condo. The Lawn on D has proven popular enough that it has become a permanent fixture in the neighborhood.

• South Boston Bowlarama

  phone: +1 617 464-4858
  address: 543 E Broadway
  One of the last remaining old school places for candlepin bowling in the city. Original wooden ball returns function through the magic of gravity. No fancy TV to display your scores, just write it down on the paper provided. No food either, but they do have what's important, beer.

Events

• Polar Bear Plunge

  phone: +1 617 635-5104
  address: 1163 Columbia Rd
  Take the "plunge" with the L Street Brownies and 1000 of your closest friends. Splash around in the freezing cold harbor around 8AM January 1st. You could also just jump in a block down the street if you don't feel like dealing with the news crews. It kind of goes without saying, but make sure you have a way to get warm after. A towel will not be sufficient.

• St. Patrick's Day Parade

  phone: +1 844 478-7287
  The St. Patrick's Day parade in Southie is a longstanding Bostonian tradition. First celebrated in 1737, its current incarnation has been running every year since 1901. Held on the Sunday closest to Evacuation Day, or March 17th, the parade celebrates Irish history, veterans, and the expulsion of the British from the city of Boston in 1776. Attendance at the parade is very high due to so many Bostonians claiming Irish ancestry, combined with the fact that it's an official city holiday. Often, close to one million people will all cram into Southie to attend the event. Check ahead for the starting time, and plan to arrive hours in advance if you want to stake out a spot. Parking is a nightmare: taking the T is strongly recommended. There has been some controversy in recent years around the inclusion of LGBTQ groups in the parade, and attendance has suffered a bit as a result. Be aware that in America "St. Patrick's Day" is synonymous with "Legal Public Drinking". Expect to encounter incapacitated revelers not only along the route but throughout the city as well. This goes double if it's a nice day. The organizers plead with people to take it easy, and police try to keep order, but your best bet is to keep your wits about you. Remember to wear green and enjoy the spectacle, everyone is Irish on St. Patrick's Day!

Southie is not the city's premiere shopping destination. No matter what changes it has undergone, at its heart, the neighborhood exists to serve its residents. The missing tourist shops and places to find goofy t-shirts speak volumes about the character of this locale.

• American Provisions

  phone: +1 617 269-6100
  address: 613 E Broadway
  Farm to table grocer, selling only very high quality ingredients. Local and handcrafted preferred. Known for their cheese, meat and charcuterie plates. They also stock a wide selection of beer and wine for pairings.

• Baltic Deli & Cafe

  phone: +1 617 268-2435
  address: 632 Dorchester Ave
  Freshly baked goods, smoked meats, and a variety of imported items for sale. Patrons from around the metro area shop here to find extremely authentic Polish and eastern european delicacies. Owned by the same family that runs Cafe Polonia across the street. The very same pierogies can be found for sale here, sealed in hand labeled freezer bags. Gets a bit crowded on Sundays after church.

• Market Stalls

  phone: +1 617 449-5514
  address: 1 Design Center Pl; Suite #203
  The Boston Design Center is at the center of Boston's glossy new Innovation District. Similar to Merchandise Mart in Chicago, picture a variety of cavernous showrooms focused on every imaginable design discipline. For visitors, make sure to check out the Market Stalls area on the second floor. This eclectic 10,000 square foot marketplace features furniture, lighting, and art from the 17th to 20th centuries. Plan a little extra time for your visit, as there may be an event going on featuring prominent architects, chefs, interior or furniture designers.

• Trillium Brewing Company

  phone: +1 617 453-8745
  address: 369 Congress St
  The lines are out the door at this tiny brewery, considered one of Boston's best. In 2017, RateBeer listed them as the #3 brewer (out of 22,500) in the world. Growler fills, bombers and six packs to go. They offer a range of beers, but seem to prefer higher alcohol content IPAs. Many are unfiltered/unpasteurized and could be called New England IPAs if you believe in that. Absolutely no samples! It's a Puritan thing.

Due to the current state of gentrification, the amount and variety of price points in South Boston is immense. You will find the more expensive, trendier bistros in the seaport district to the north. As you get away from the T stations and further into the center of the neighborhood, prices begin to decrease.

Budget

• Doughboy Donuts and Deli

  phone: +1 617 269-7560
  address: 220 Dorchester Ave
  Longtime freestanding neighborhood doughnut shop offering a variety of basic morning pastries. Classic. They also sell sandwiches and pizza, but why would you get those? Offers a little glimpse into Southie's past, before the money rolled in.

• Molly Moo's

  phone: +1 774 225-1003
  address: 687 E 2nd St
  Found on the ground floor of a newly developed block of condos, this acclaimed spot serves homemade ice cream in both scooped and sandwich formats. Also serving fresh coffee, cannoli and breakfast starters, with small sandwiches on offer as well.

• Flour Bakery

  phone: +1 617 338-4333
  address: 12 Farnsworth St
  One of four locations, this small Boston chain focuses on French style pastries and sweets. But they also sell a wide assortment of lunch staples like quiche, pizza, and stuffed breads.

• Shake Shack

  phone: +1 617 337-4699
  address: 77 Seaport Blvd
  Everybody loves Shake Shack. Modern fast casual burger joint taking the world by storm. Expect lines.

• Galley Diner

  phone: +1 617 464-1024
  address: 11 P St
  A traditional American diner endures. Go here for breakfast, because that's when it's open! Anthony Bourdain liked the corned beef hash with eggs.

• Sullivan's Castle Island

  phone: +1 617 268-5685
  address: 2080 William J Day Blvd
  Not to be missed South Boston dining experience. No frills beachside shack in business since the 1950s. No indoor seating. Lines are long during summer hours, but they move fast. If the weather is bad, you'll have the place to yourself.

• Teriyaki House

  phone: +1 617 269-2000
  address: 32 W Broadway
  Traditional Japanese Teppanyaki cooking, fresh Sushi, and bubble Tea.

Mid-range

• Cafe Polonia

  phone: +1 617 269-0110
  address: 611 Dorchester Ave
  Quite possibly the only Polish restaurant in Boston, but one of the better restaurants by any standard. Authentic Polish food at very reasonable prices, although it may be too authentic for some (e.g. the lard with bacon bits that's provided as a spread for bread). The place is very small, so reservations are recommended.

• Coppersmith

  phone: +1 617 658-3452
  address: 40 W 3rd St
  Interesting spot in a gigantic converted warehouse with an industrial vibe. Two indoor food trucks serve everything from breakfast to late night munchies. Drinks furnished from a renovated vintage Airstream trailer on the roof deck. Occasionally closed for private events. Kid friendly.

• Barlow's Restaurant

  phone: +1 617-338-2142
  address: 241 A St
  Extensive menu of traditional fare with a gourmet twist, offering brunch, lunch, and dinner, as well as homemade desserts and specialty cocktails. The menus feature fresh seafood, meat, pizza and pasta dishes. Housed in a renovated old mill with an outdoor patio.

• Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant

  phone: +1 617 765-8636
  address: 425 W Broadway
  New American gastropub. One of the first restaurants on this stretch trying to cater to the burgeoning number of young professionals in the area.

• Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar

  phone: +1 617 917-5626
  address: 412 W Broadway
  Mexican inspired fare with a New England twist. Fun, lively, and sometimes crowded environment.

• Salvatore's

  phone: +1 617 737-5454
  address: 225 Northern Ave
  Upscale Italian food and great pizza.

• Yankee Lobster

  phone: +1 617 345-9799
  address: 300 Northern Ave

Splurge

• Amrheins Restaurant

  phone: +1 617 925-6709
  address: 80 W Broadway
  Welcoming atmosphere, delicious American and Italian dishes, served on the oldest hand-carved bar in America.

• Barking Crab

  phone: +1 617 426-2722
  address: 88 Sleeper St
  Excellent seafood and American cuisine. Outdoor dining in a clam shack atmosphere, overlooks Boston Harbor and view of downtown. Kid friendly. Live music daily.

• Row 34

  phone: +1 617 553-5900
  address: 383 Congress St
  Known for their beer and oysters, but offer a wide assortment of oceanic dishes. Dramatic raw bar. Gets pretty spendy at suppertime, but there are some affordable options offered earlier in the day.

• Worden Hall

  phone: +1 617 752-4206
  address: 22 W Broadway
  For fans of horse racing in upstate New York, this spot is can't miss. A refined seasonal menu is supported by a selection of over 40 draught beers and 100 whiskeys to choose from. A cosy environment in which to suffer from the paradox of choice.

• Legal Harborside

  phone: +1 617 477-2900
  address: 270 Northern Ave
  Waterfront dining experience at the flagship location of a Boston seafood institution. Each of the three floors has a different menu and is styled after a different concept. Informal on the first floor, formal on the second. Fireside drinks and small plates on the third floor, an enclosable roof deck.

• Menton

  phone: +1 617 737-0099
  address: 354 Congress St
  Modern fine dining by chef Barbara Lynch. Yeah it's expensive, but the French/Italian fusion cuisine served at Menton has won almost every food award, nomination, or accolade there is to give. Barbara has been here since 2010, and oversees 6 other fine dining restaurants in Boston.

• Drink

  phone: +1 617 695-1806
  address: 348 Congress St
  Get in line to be served one of the most renowned cocktails in the city. You won't find a menu inside, so have a drink in mind to order. If it's not busy let the mixologist know your preferences and they will come up with a delightfully boozy idea on the spot. Try to get here before 9 to avoid the crowds.

• GrandTen Distilling

  address: 383 Dorchester Ave
  Take a distillery tour or sample some of the wares on premises.

• Harpoon Brewery and Beer Hall

  address: 306 Northern Avenue
  Massive beer hall with all major Harpoon varieties on tap, plus several styles only available at this location. No real food, but soft pub pretzels with dipping sauces are available to help sop up the alcohol. $5 tours available on the hour.

• L Street Tavern

  phone: +1 617 268-4335
  address: 658 E 8th St
  A fixture in the neighborhood from a different era, this old school watering hole has charm for days. Famous today after being featured in "Good Will Hunting", it has undergone renovations so don't expect it to look the same.

• Lucky's Lounge

  phone: +1 617 357-5825
  address: 355 Congress St
  Join the crowd of office workers and locals knocking back an after work drink in this basement lounge. Atmosphere, decorations, drinks and music all inspired by the 1950s and Frank Sinatra.

• Telegraph Hill

  phone: +1 617 269-5200
  address: 289 Dorchester St
  Laid back tavern serving up craft beers in an intimate space. Located in a less visited part of the neighborhood, this is a great place to catch up with friends or watch the game on TV.

Coffee

• Barrington Coffee Roasting Company

  phone: +1 617 277-1914
  address: 346 Congress St
  Grab a cup from this consistently top rated company. One of only two locations. Barrington sells beans that have been roasted in their factory located in the Berkshires.

• Brew

  phone: +1 617 982-7230
  address: 75 Northern Ave
  More then just fresh brewed coffee is available in this modern and innovative space. They also serve salads, sandwiches, and even have a few beers on tap.

• Broadway’s Pastry & Coffee

  phone: +1 617 268-2253
  address: 258 W Broadway
  Delectable european style pastries sold alongside lighter local fare. Top notch coffee and tea offered in a casual environment.

• P.S. Gourmet Coffee

  phone: +1 617 269-4020
  address: 106 Dorchester St
  Old school establishment for fresh brewed coffee, order by the cup or by the "bucket". Serves raspberry lime rickeys too if you haven't found one yet. One other location in Dorchester.

Get your wallet out! South Boston is a desirable location to spend the night due to its closeness to downtown and the convention center located here. If an event is in town, hotel prices will be correspondingly astronomical. The city is aware of this issue and they are trying to reduce costs by increasing supply. There are a few hotels under construction (as of Nov 2016) with more on the drawing boards, but unfortunately for you they are not available yet. The best way of mitigating the damage is to book far in advance, and to coordinate your calendar with the convention center's. You can also look at hotels in other areas of the city or try booking online with popular room-rental services.

Mid-range

• Aloft Boston Seaport

  phone: +1 617 530-1600
  address: 401-403 D St
  Owned by the same company as Element next door, with a similar aesthetic. The lobby sells food & booze, and it's also located directly in front of Lawn on D, so expect more of a social atmosphere downstairs. Dog friendly, "keyless" access, free Wi-Fi and fitness center.

• Element Boston Seaport

  phone: +1 617 530-1700
  address: 391-395 D St
  Contemporary, apartment-esque design, many with full kitchens. Built with a "green" or environmentally friendly feel. Fast Wi-Fi, fitness center, and bikes available for borrowing.

• The Envoy Hotel

  phone: +1 617 338-3030
  address: 70 Sleeper St
  New in 2015, this sleek, tech friendly hotel offers some stunning city views from some of its rooms. Stocked with fancy toiletries, and also free cookies on the way in! If you don't want to pay for the view, the same sights are always available from the roof deck.

• Residence Inn Boston Downtown/Seaport

  phone: +1 617 478-0840
  address: 370 Congress St
  It's a chain without feeling like one. This hotel sits in an extensively repurposed old warehouse building in Southie's Fort Point district. All rooms come with a fully equipped kitchen, free breakfast, and are pet friendly.

Splurge

• Renaissance Boston Waterfront Hotel

  phone: +1 617 338-4111
  address: 606 Congress St
  Perfectly located if arriving by air, and you want to hit up a brewery! Everything is accessible, and they also have an indoor lap pool and a jacuzzi to compliment the free Wi-Fi. Some rooms overlook the harbor.

• The Westin Boston Waterfront

  phone: +1 617-532-4600
  address: 425 Summer Street
  This AAA Four Diamond-rated hotel is located in Boston’s new waterfront district and is connected to the largest convention center in New England, the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center. The Westin Boston Waterfront also features 80,000 square feet of meeting space on-property and 793 guest rooms and 31 suites over looking Boston Harbor.

• Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center

  phone: +1 617 385-4000
  address: 1 Seaport Ln
  One of the new deluxe hotels that's sprung up around the South Boston waterfront area in the past couple years.

There are several chain coffee shops in Southie that offer free wi-fi facilities, they may restrict access during peak hours however.

• South Boston Branch

  phone: +1 617 268-0180
  address: 646 E Broadway

• Most visitors will be able to simply walk back across the Fort Point Channel and return Downtown.
• Stretch your legs and walk to the South End from here, but that gets a little tricky because of the interstate highway that cuts off most pedestrian access points.
• Ride the Red Line to the People's Republic of Cambridge and explore Harvard Square.
• Get off the tourist trail entirely and head south to Dorchester, with a comparatively more suburban feel.
• Unless you're a great swimmer, you won't be going much further east. But boats are available to ferry you to the Boston Harbor Islands seasonally.
• If you have 100 bucks and 90 minutes, climb aboard the fast ferry to Provincetown.
• With a little advance planning and a love of ocean liners, you could depart for Quebec City, Montreal, or even as far as Bermuda.