Boston/South End

In response to the crowded conditions throughout the downtown and Beacon Hill neighborhoods, the city of Boston decided to fill in tidal marshes to the south. Beginning sometime around the 1830s, a new inner city residential neighborhood was envisioned, with a large and stable tax base to draw from. Architect Charles Bulfinch was hired, who oversaw the infill of land and created a series of residential parks. Inspired by English residential town squares, most greenspace is artfully landscaped and ringed with attractive cast iron fencing. The buildings here were designed to be uniform five-story bowfront structures. To further accentuate the visual unity of the area, Bullfinch called for a common palette of brick, slate, limestone, and cast iron elements to be used.
At first, a burgeoning middle class moved to the South End including business owners. As new housing developments opened up, however, the Back Bay and Roxbury soon became the "it" neighborhoods, and the South End would slide into a tenement district by the end of the 19th century. Close to good railroad jobs and now more affordable, the South End quickly began to attract African-American families, and became a center of black middle class Boston life and culture. Known as a "Jazz Mecca" for the first half of the 20th century, when musicians like Duke Ellington and Cab Calloway performed in a myriad of area clubs.
More and more buildings fell into disrepair, and by the 1960s absentee landlordism was rampant and the neighborhood was one of the poorest of the city. At this point, Boston's city planners once again stepped in, knocking down blocks of dilapidated structures and replacing them with housing projects and areas of light industry. It was an imperfect solution, but it mostly worked out, and set the groundwork for the beautiful and diverse community residing in the South End today.

By public transit

The Orange Line is going to be your best option for accessing most of the South End. The Back Bay and Massachusetts Ave stations bring you close to the action. While the Ruggles station is in the neighborhood, most of the attractions are further north. The Green Line roughly parallels the Orange in this area, but the stations are slightly further away. One stop on the Red Line, Broadway, is great for accessing SoWa market and all the new developments in the South End's northeastern corner.
If the suburbs and beyond are where you're leaving/arriving from, Back Bay Station is for you. On the Commuter Rail, the Providence/Stoughton, Framinghham/Worcester, Needham, and Franklin lines all stop here. This is also a main stop for Amtrak with Acela Express, Northeast Regional, and Lake Shore Limited trains all heading further afield. This station is also the first stop for the #39 bus, which takes you south past the museums and into Jamaica Plain.
Another great option is the Silver Line, a bus rapid transit service running through the center of the neighborhood. From north to south the stops are: Herald St, East Berkeley St, Union Park St, Newton St, Worcester Sq, Massachusetts Avenue, and finally Lenox St. This bus can be helpful, as it passes by all the big commercial areas in the South End.

By foot

This is really the best way to see this minute neighborhood, barely over a mile across. As a point of reference, traversing the neighborhood would take the average person less than 30 minutes on foot. Walking from the Orange Line Mass Ave station, to the I-90 I-93 overpass next to downtown.

By car

Strongly not recommended. There are no parking garages in the South End, and virtually all on street parking is resident only. You'd have to park in a different neighborhood and walk in anyway, so what's the point of driving?

There's not much to see in the South End in particular. The neighborhood is quite small and beautiful, so your best bet may be to just go for a stroll. The area has some of the most wonderfully restored brownstones, they really pop offset against the dramatic backdrop of Back Bay's skyscrapers. You will find scores of gardens and small parks tucked between the warren of intimate (and occasionally cobblestoned) streets. Evenings here are great for walking as well, as gas lamps flicker to life and light your path across care-worn bricks.

• Site of Boston town gateAt one time this route was the only way in or out of Boston. Still an isthmus in the early 17th century, the town was almost entirely surrounded by water. Here at the corner of Washington and E Berkeley streets Mayflower era colonists built gated earthworks to keep out natives and unwanted animals. A gallows stood outside the gate, where thieves and murderers would be executed. These defenses were constantly being improved, especially during the colonial era. As time went on, however, the water was filled in by earth and the gate lost its importance. Today there is no plaque or other signifier of this important spot, only a few signs at the nearby bus station. This noisy street corner could be easily skipped, or it could be a heady spot to contemplate the passage of time.

Galleries

This is a smattering of the galleries the South End has on offer. They can be found throughout the neighborhood, with the greatest number being concentrated in the SoWa Market area. Naturally. Its best to visit on the weekends, and better still on market days.

• L'Attitude Gallery

  address: 460 Harrison Ave #8A

• Adelson Galleries

  phone: +1 617 832-0633
  address: 520 Harrison Ave

• Mills Gallery

  phone: +1 617 426-5000
  address: 539 Tremont St

• Piano Craft Gallery

  phone: +1 617 595-5638
  address: 793 Tremont St

• Kijidome

  address: 59 Wareham St #1A

• Boston Sculptors Gallery

  phone: +1 617 482-7781
  address: 486 Harrison Ave

• M Fine Arts Galerie

  phone: +1 617 450-0700
  address: 61 Thayer St
  First established in Soho, New York, it offers the best selection of contemporary European painters to its clients. M Fine Arts Galerie was established in 2016, continuing the work of Axelle after the previous owner passed away. You will find an ever-evolving selection of new, museum-quality paintings here, due to the exclusive representation of many European artists such as Patrick Pietropoli, Fabienne Delacroix, André Bourrié, Brian Stephens and Diana Nicosia.

• Boston Center for the Arts

  phone: +1 617 426-5000
  address: 539 Tremont St
  This non-profit coordinates multiple spaces in the South End, and is dedicated to hosting original events alongside visual and performing arts. Supports working artists by connecting them to the community, and patrons of the arts. Check the calendar daily for new performances, gallery openings, open studios, and more. The BCA has used the historic Cyclorama as its principal building since its inception in 1970. The city of Boston funded redevelopment costs in an effort to revitalize the South End area and the art scene.

• Matthews Arena

  phone: +1 617 373-2691
  address: 238 St.Botolph Street
  Today owned by Northeastern University, and was the original home of the Boston Bruins. Matthews Arena first opened in 1910 and is the oldest multi-purpose athletic building still in use in the world. It has undergone significant renovations over the years, so expect state of the art if you're catching a game here.

• Stir

  phone: +1 617 423-7847
  address: 102 Waltham St
  Part kitchen, part bookstore, part classroom. Pop in and browse, or reserve one of the 10 seats at Stir far in advance!

Events

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Due to the number of artists & galleries located in the neighborhood, SoWa has become a creative epicenter, attracting a wide range of art-enthused fans, creative minds, and unique events.

• SoWa Open Market

  address: 530 Harrison Ave
  The SoWa Open Market is a vibrant collection of open air markets featuring over 150 local artisans, farmers, specialty food vendors and food trucks. This weekly event draws many thousands of visitors from across New England and beyond. The Market has four main components, the vintage market, the arts market, the farmer's market, and everyone's favorite, the beer & wine garden. This is In addition to the scores of everyday retailers, and highbrow art galleries housed in the surrounding buildings. This event is so popular, all nearby restaurants will have multi-hour table waits, and streets become almost impassable to vehicles. Yes, even your Uber will have a hard time picking you up here, so be prepared to walk.

• Viola Lovely

  phone: +1 857 277-0746
  address: 1409 Washington St
  Clothing boutique.

• Boomerangs

  phone: +1 617 456-0996
  address: 1407 Washington St
  Secondhand / thrift store with proceeds going to fight AIDS. This one has some pretty fancy stuff owing to its location.

• Uniform

  phone: +1 617 247-2360
  address: 511 Tremont St
  Menswear.

• Polly Latham Antiques

  phone: +1 617 723-7009
  address: 535 Albany St
  Expensive antique shop focusing on asian and early american ceramics.

• Gifted

  phone: +1 617 716-9924
  address: 2 Dartmouth St
  More affordable knickknacks and decor crafted by area artists. Locally owned.

• Ore Jewelry

  phone: +1 617 247-7426
  address: 80 Dartmouth St
  Custom and ready to wear high end jewelry.

• M. Flynn Jewelry

  phone: +1 617 292-0079
  address: 40 Waltham St
  A range of artisanal and designer jewelry from artists with various aesthetics.

• More Than Words Bookstore

  phone: +1 781 788-0035
  address: 242 E Berkeley St
  Thousands of books line the walls of this bright, inviting space. A non-profit run by at risk youth and their mentors, training teens in business and professional skills.

The South End has spent decades committed to increasing fine dining options, and it shows. Some of the best and most interesting cuisine in the city can be found right here, along with some of its most expensive! This list isn't exhaustive, there are many excellent restaurants in the neighborhood not listed here. Consider calling ahead for reservations for most any location, especially in the summertime and especially on Sundays when the SoWa Market is in full swing. Prices are generally spendy, but don't lose hope. Try some of the fancier places earlier in the day for brunch, you may find similar fare more affordably.

Budget

• Emma's

  phone: +1 617 864-8534
  address: 537 Columbus Ave
  This cozy little pizzeria stands out for two reasons: Unique and sometimes bizarre topping combinations (like the house-smoked bacon pizza with roasted gold potatoes, cilantro and dried cranberries) will make you rethink what makes a pie. And, more importantly, the pizza here is actually good the crust is thin and crispy, the sauce is flavorful, and the cheeses are fresh and melt just right -- quite a feat considering what typically passes for pizza in the Boston area.

• Emilios Pizza

  phone: +1 617 423-4083
  address: 536 Tremont Street
  Traditional Italian deli, great place to grab a sandwich or a slice. Basic pizza and Greek offerings for cheap eats in the upper South End.

• Blackbird Doughnuts

  phone: +1 617 482-9000
  address: 492 Tremont St

• Mike's City Diner

  phone: +1 617 267-9393
  address: 1714 Washington St

• Cafe Madeleine

  phone: +1 857 239-8052
  address: 517 Columbus Ave

• Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe

  phone: +1 617 536-7669
  address: 429 Columbus Ave

• Ali's Roti Restaurant

  phone: +1 617 427-1079
  address: 1035 Tremont St

• Addis Red Sea

  phone: +1 617-426-872
  address: 544 Tremont St
  Cheap and tasty Ethiopian food.

• Appleton Bakery Cafe

  phone: +1 617-859-8222
  address: 123 Appleton St
  A great place to have lunch. The menu has variety of imaginative and delicious sandwiches as well as several prepared dishes changing daily. Appleton also brews very good coffee and caries an eclectic selection of chocolates and snack foods. There is a moderate amount of seating.

Mid-range

• The Butcher Shop

  phone: +1 617-423-4800
  address: 552 Tremont St
  This is a wine bar/French and Italian bistro, part of the No. 9 Group of Boston Restaurants (with No. 9 Park and B&G Oysters) serving fresh cuts of premium meat, a healthy variety of cheese, a wide and well-stocked selection of wines, and several house specialties.

• Franklin Cafe

  phone: +1 617 350-0010
  address: 278 Shawmut Avenue
  This place is very small and quickly gets crowded but it has great food and drinks. One of the only late-night (serves food until 1:45AM) restaurants nearby.

• Picco

  phone: +1 617-927-0066
  address: 513 Tremont St
  Gourmet pizza, calzones and ice cream. Great soup and sandwiches also on the menu.

• Estragon

  phone: +1 617-266-0443
  address: 700 Harrison Ave
  Spanish tapas restaurant. Unlike other tapas places in the Boston area, which tend to do Spanish fusion cooking, the tapas on the menu here are exactly what you would expect from a taperia in Spain.

• Mela Indian Cuisine

  phone: +1 617-859-4805
  address: 578 Tremont St
  Contemporary Indian food near the corner of Tremont St. and Union Park. Fair prices, given the location and living costs of Boston, and the taste is great. They have special "Dinner for 2" package options for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians, which includes mulligatawny soup, samosas, naan bread, choice of 2 entrées, and choice of dessert.

• The Wholy Grain

  phone: +1 857-277-1531
  address: 275 Shawmut Ave
  Small sandwich, pastry, and coffee place located in a not-quite-basement. They can get very busy, but the sandwiches are flavorful and the prices are more than fair for the trendy South End.

• Orinoco

  phone: +1 617 369-7075
  address: 477 Shawmut Ave
  Venezuelan.

• Slades Bar & Grill

  phone: +1 617 442-4600
  address: 958 Tremont St
  Basketball fans take note, this spot was owned by Bill Russell, one of the greatest NBA players, and a Boston Celtic from 1956-1969. This joint is known for its soul food paired with an R&B and soul soundtrack.

• Area Four

  phone: +1 857 317-4805
  address: 264 E Berkeley St
  Great pizza, great beer selection and cocktails.

Splurge

• Stella

  phone: +1 617 247-7747
  address: 1525 Washington Street
  Stella is a modern, elegant Italian restaurant, great bar, pricey but food is well-worth it. They have a late-night menu and several specialty cocktails.

• Aquitaine

  phone: +1 617 424-8577
  address: 569 Tremont Street
  A French bistro with great dinner and weekend brunch. Dinner will run about $120 including drinks, tax and tip. Brunch is much more affordable, around $15-20 a person. Small and slightly cramped, they take reservations for dinner and brunch.

• Myers & Chang

  phone: +1 617 542-5200
  address: 1145 Washington St

• The Gallows

  phone: +1 617 425-0200
  address: 1395 Washington St

• Toro

  phone: +1 617 536-4300
  address: 1704 Washington St

• Coppa

  phone: +1 617 391-0902
  address: 253 Shawmut Ave

• SRV

  phone: +1 617 536-9500
  address: 569 Columbus Ave

• DeLux

  phone: +1 617-338-5258
  address: 100 Chandler St
  A cute divey hangout right off of Clarendon St. The drinks are fairly cheap, the atmosphere is cozy and kitschy, and the food is delicious. Cash only.

• J.J. Foley's

  phone: +1 617-338-7713
  address: 117 E Berkeley St
  Hard-drinking Irish bar with pub food.

• Boston Eagle

  phone: +1 617 542-4494
  address: 520 Tremont St
  Legendary gay bar, one of Boston's oldest.

• Wink & Nod

  phone: +1 617 482-0117
  address: 3 Appleton St
  Craft cocktails in a faux speakeasy.

• Wally's Cafe

  phone: +1 617 424-1408
  address: 427 Massachusetts Ave
  South End institution for Jazz and other live music. There used to be scores of these tiny jazz joints all over the area many years ago. Wally's has stayed in business because they're the best. Berkeley students and longtime residents play to a friendly and diverse crowd. If you have a bad time here, that's on you!

• Anchovies

  phone: +1 617 266-5088
  address: 433 Columbus Ave

• Five Horses Tavern

  phone: +1 617 936-3930
  address: 535 Columbus Ave
  Good mixed drinks and an extensive list of beers on tap.

Coffee

• Flour

  phone: +1 617 267-4300
  address: 1595 Washington St

• Jaho Coffee & Tea

  phone: +1 617 236-1680
  address: 1651 Washington St

• Render Coffee

  phone: +1 617 262-4142
  address: 563 Columbus Ave

• South End Buttery

  phone: +1 617 482-1015
  address: 314 Shawmut Ave

• Caffé Nero

  phone: +1 617 982-7108
  address: 564 Tremont St

Budget

• Revolution Hotel

  phone: +1 617 848-9200
  address: 40 Berkeley St
  Basic rooms accommodating one to four people depending on size. Shared bathrooms on each floor; the suites (up to four people) have private baths.

• Hampton Inn & Suites - Boston Crosstown Center

  phone: +1 617 445-6400
  address: 811 Massachusetts Ave
  Good quality hotel, but be warned it's right on the methadone mile. You won't really even notice if you're taking cabs everywhere, but this might not be the right choice for everyone.

• 82 Chandler Street B&B

  phone: +1 617 482-0408
  address: 82 Chandler St
  Four guest rooms and one bedroom apartment, offered for short term stays or rental by the week or month. Gorgeous old restored four-story victorian brick townhouse. All rooms with private baths, A/C, and free WiFi.

• Clarendon Square Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1 617 536-2229
  address: 198 W Brookline St

Mid-range

• The Chandler Inn Hotel

  phone: +1 617 482-3450
  address: 26 Chandler St

• The Gilded Lily

  phone: +1 617 877-3676
  address: 4 Claremont Park

• Aisling Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1 617 206-8049
  address: 21 E Concord St
  A 19th century Victorian row-house with many original finishings. 2 en-suite rooms, each with a private bath, cable TV, and free WiFi. The house has been retrofitted with central air-conditioning.

• Aisling Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1 617 206-8049
  address: 21 E Concord St

• 14 Union Park

  phone: +1 617 236-6961
  address: 14 Union Park

• Chandler Studios Boston

  phone: +1 617 482-3450
  address: 54 Berkeley St

There is one library here offering free wi-fi, although you'll probably pick up a few overlapping signals from all the competing cafes and shops in the area.

• South End Branch

  phone: +1 617 536-8241
  address: 685 Tremont St

• If you somehow didn't find a restaurant to your liking, check out the Back Bay, another neighborhood with outstanding cuisine.
• Already have tickets? Catch a game at historic Fenway Park in the center of Fenway-Kenmore.
• To try out a few new dishes, walk over the Mass Pike and into Chinatown, a part of Downtown Boston.
• After the SoWa market wraps up head west, over Interstate 93 and walk into Southie.
• Get off the beaten track and into Roxbury, to see some fantastic colonial sites and Boston's biggest park.