Bridge of Allan

The quiet fields around this village saw the zenith of Scotland's military success against England. In 1297 William Wallace held much of the north and Dundee was his next target, when the English under the Earl of Surrey marched north against him. At Stirling, Surrey dithered over crossing the River Forth, while the Scots got ready to meet him. He was urged to ford the river further upstream, which he could have done quickly outflanking the Scots. Instead he began to advance over the bridge, a ricketty narrow wooden structure that could only fit two horsemen abreast - the manouevre was bound to take hours. The Scots bided their time till 2000 had crossed then set on and slew them. Surrey could still have held his position at Stirling but bolted south to Berwick, and Scotland was in the hands of Wallace.
Wallace was never crowned king, but ruled as "Guardian of Scotland" until his betrayal, capture and execution in 1305 by the English. A war of succession broke out in Scotland: King Edward II tried to place a puppet king on their throne, and occupied Stirling Castle, but in 1314 the Scots under Robert the Bruce beseiged the castle and defeated the English army a few miles south at Bannockburn. Scotland's independence was recognised in 1320 in the Declaration of Arbroath.
These two great victories are icons of Scottish lore and identity to this day - which gives the game away, that they were never so successful in battle again. There was a long period of peace until 1502 when, not leaving well enough alone, the two nations signed the Treaty of Perpetual Peace. Hostilities soon resumed and in 1513 Scotland suffered a catastrophic defeat at Flodden in Northumberland, with King James IV killed. They regrouped and came again, but suffered another crushing defeat near Carlisle in 1542. Never again could Scotland by itself pose a military threat to England. But if, say, France were to join as an ally, as in the Jacobite rebellions, surely they'd fare better?

• For the main village, follow M9 to its terminus at Junction 11 then return south on A9. For the University, bypass Stirling to the east on A91 then turn onto Alloa Rd past the monument. From Stirling simply follow A9 north.

• Three trains per hour stop here on their way between Stirling and Dunblane; southbound they continue to Glasgow Queen Street or Edinburgh. Trains going further north (eg to Aberdeen or Inverness) don't stop here, change at Stirling or Dunblane. There's free parking but little else at

  Bridge of Allan railway station

• Lots of buses run between Stirling, Bridge of Allan and Dunblane. First Scotland East Bus 54 runs every 30 mins between Stirling, Bridge of Allan village and the University. Scottish Citylink 909 runs from Edinburgh every two hours via the airport, Bo'ness, Grangemouth, and Falkirk to Stirling, with two per day continuing to the University. Addison News Bus 1 runs twice a day to Callandar via Dunblane and Doune. Stagecoach Bus 15 runs hourly to Perth via Dunblane and Crieff. Long distance coaches almost never stop here, connect in Stirling.

The uni-link Bus UL runs every 30 mins between Stirling bus station and the University; it doesn't come into the village.

• Wallace Monument

  phone: +44 1786 472140
  address: Abbey Craig
  Set on the hill north of Stirling, this monument honours William Wallace who led the Scottish to victory over the English. It was built 1861-69 - Garibaldi was among those who contributed to the funding. Inside are displays about the Battle of Stirling Bridge and about important Scottish people. You have a great view over Stirling and its surroundings from the top.
• is set in a landscaped park and estate, with Airthrey Castle and a lake with lots of wildlife. It's two miles east of Bridge of Allan railway station, or take the bus from Stirling.
• In 1745 the Jacobites occupied the town and charged a toll to cross the bridge: the Tollbar marks the spot.

• Lecropt KirkHandsome church in Gothic revival style, built in 1827 so it's late Georgian. Note the stain glass windows. The church is on a slight rise with views over the "carse" - the riverside meadows - and Stirling and the Monument. Of the former village of Lecropt nothing remains.

• Cambuskenneth Abbey is this side of the river, downstream from the Monument. But it's easiest to access via the footbridge from Stirling.

• The Darn Walk is an old drovers' trail along the east bank of the Allan Water north to Dunblane, 3 miles. Start from Blairforkie Drive at the village bridge. Follow a rough track along the wooded riverbank to "Ben Gunn's Cave" - Robert Louis Stevenson often holidayed in this area as a youth and may have taken this cave as his model. Beyond, you cross a low ridge to come into Dunblane. The riverbank path continues upstream to Ashfield.
• The hills rising steeply above the village are the Ochils - they're not the Highlands, but a good overture. Dumyat Hill (429 m) is their outpost, reached by a trail (5 miles there & back) from Pendreich Forest car park on Sheriffmuir Rd. A branch path leads onto Castle Law, with the best views of the monument and Stirling Castle.
• Further east, explore Dollar Glen up to Castle Campbell - the autumn colours are sublime.
• Bridge of Allan Highland Games are held here in early August. The next event is Sun 2 Aug 2020.

There's a Co-op food store and Tesco Express in the village.

• Cheap and cheerful eateries along the main street include Rana's (Punjabi Indian), Jam Jar British bistro, Bayne's Bakery, Lee's Chinese takeaway, Friend of Mine licensed cafe, and La Cucina Italian. The Grill by HW is just west of the river.

• Allanwater Cafe

  phone: +44 1786 833060
  address: 15 Henderson St FK9 4HN
  Great fish and chips, vegan & gluten-free options.

• Westerton Arms

  phone: +44 1786 833999
  address: 34 Henderson St FK9 4HR
  Pub with decent food. New owners in March 2019.

• Vecchia Bologna

  phone: +44 1786 833617
  address: Mine Road FK9 4DT
  Smart Italian restaurant.

• The Meadowpark

  phone: +44 1786 834084
  address: 56 Kenilworth Rd FK9 4RY
  Pub with restaurant, last serving for food is 2 hours before closing. They no longer operate as a hotel.

• Allanwater Brewhouse

  phone: +44 1786 834555
  address: Queens Lane, Bridge of Allan FK9 4HP
  Pub with its own microbrewery. Brews a wide range of ales including one with mangoes, another with nettles. Occasional music in the evening.

• Kilronan House

  phone: +44 1786 831054
  address: 15 Kenilworth Road, FK9 4DU
  Elegant Victorian house built in 1853, in a leafy conservation area near Stirling University and the Wallace Monument. Spacious ensuite rooms, ample offstreet parking in the grounds. Free Wi-Fi internet access. Almost booked out thru July 2019.

• Royal Hotel

  phone: +44 1786 832284
  address: 55 Henderson St FK9 4HG
  3-star, under refurbishment so guest reviews depend on whether they get the new or the tatty old rooms.

• Stirling is a short bus ride away.
• Dunblane and Perth are on the route north into the Highlands.