Chicago/Hyde Park
Hyde Park is one of Chicago's most famous neighborhoods, most certainly so on the South Side, located along the south lakefront. Having played host to the White City, the University of Chicago, President Obama, the setting for Richard Wright's Native Son, and a host of eccentric residents from Saul Bellow to Clarence Darrow to Muhammad Ali, this part of town has more than its fair share of Chicago history.
There is more than enough for a visitor to see here, and devoting a full day to exploring Hyde Park can make for a fine itinerary. Architecture buffs will have their hands occupied by the many Victorian mansions and Prairie School houses; anyone with an intellectual bent should be delighted by Hyde Park's independent bookstores, overawed by the University of Chicago's terrifying intensity, and intrigued by the Oriental Institute; and just about everyone will enjoy a trip to the stimulating Museum of Science and Industry or taking a stroll and a swim along the Point and the beach.
Understand
Neighborhoods
Kenwood developed into one of Chicago's most upscale suburbs after the Civil War, and its Kenwood Historic District between Cottage Grove & Blackstone and 47th & 51st is a treasure trove of mansions representing virtually all the fashionable architectural styles of the late 19th century (including an excellent collection of early houses by Frank Lloyd Wright). The mansion owners are of interest too — their ranks include Nation of Islam leader, Minister Louis Farrakhan, the Obama family, and the city's oldest Jewish community. Former residents range from the infamous Leopold and Loeb, Muhammad Ali, the fictional Dalton family from Native Son, and the founder of the Nation of Islam, Elijah Muhammad.The central Hyde Park neighborhood is the biggest draw, dominated by the rather awesome presence of the University of Chicago. During the 1950s, desegregation fueled extensive "white flight" from this area, transforming the racial make up of nearly the entire South Side from all white to all black. Here, however, the University of Chicago leveraged its financial power, political clout, and social engineering brainpower to muscle through the city's first "urban renewal" project. This project, unflatteringly referred to by many neighborhood residents as "urban removal," used eminent domain powers to demolish urban housing developments, to remove nightclubs and bars, and to make the neighborhood more suburban in character (and to decimate the commercial strip on 55th St west of the railroad).
The project was paternalist, classist, and evicted many if not the majority of the neighborhood's low-income residents, but the end result of the University-driven "renewal" project is that Hyde Park is to this day one of the nation's most durable mixed-income, mixed-race neighborhoods, and is home to one of the only significant white communities for miles on the South Side. Hyde Park maintains its unique characteristics in its unique isolation from the rest of the city: no convenient L service, giant Washington Park to the west, frigid-in-the-winter Midway Plaisance to the south, and persistent redevelopment projects pushing to the north through Kenwood and to the south through Woodlawn.
Today, Hyde Park is full of amazing bookstores, leafy streets, the siren song of cheap greasy food, great museums, and more Nobel Prizes per square kilometer than any other neighborhood on Earth.
Woodlawn, to the south of the Midway, south of the University, is characterized by urban blight. With high levels of violent crime (especially by the 63rd St Green Line stops), blocks worth of vacant lots, and lacking in commercial activity, Woodlawn is well off the beaten tourist path. But Jackson Park (as well as the areas of Woodlawn close to the park) is perfectly safe, and a beautiful place for a walk. 63rd St still has a few remaining businesses from its salad days, but is not a great place to hang out after dark.
Get in
By bus
You can get to Hyde Park by taking several CTA buses from downtown Chicago. Routes #6 (Hyde Park Express) and #4 (Cottage Grove) are common choices. The 55/Garfield bus is a very cheap and efficient way to travel between Midway Airport and Hyde Park. It passes by the University of Chicago and terminates at the Museum of Science and Industry. To get from place to place within the area, CTA offers several useful neighborhood routes between the University and other points in the district, the #171 between the University and the Museum of Science and Industry being the most useful.By train
Alternatively, the CTA Red Line and Green Line link the Loop with Garfield Avenue in Washington Park. Although more convenient — they run more frequently, and operate 24 hours a day — the two stops are too far from Hyde Park to walk and located in rough neighborthoods. But the very frequent 55/Garfield bus will take you straight from either of them to anywhere along 55th St.
By car
Coming south on Lake Shore Drive, it is most convenient to take the southbound exit at 51st St/Hyde Park Blvd for a drive, or the 57th St exit for the Museum of Science and Industry and the University. Coming from the southeast on the Chicago Skyway, get off early at the Stony Island Ave exit and follow it north. From the Dan Ryan Expressway, you'll definitely want to take the 55th St/Garfield Blvd east exit, which will take you into the heart of Hyde Park through Washington Park.A car is not a bad way to see Hyde Park, especially if you plan to cover a lot of territory. Free on-street parking is generally easy to find. The most difficult area to park is without question the area around the University of Chicago, where the street parking during the day is limited and policed with an iron fist by the University Police. Even in this area, however, it is usually possible (if a bit frustrating) to find metered parking, or to just pay at one of the big university or hospital lots. Try looking on the Midway, or on a less safe street to the south of the university. It can also be difficult to find free parking right by the Museum of Science and Industry during tourist season, but there is always room in the museum's pay lots.
By bicycle
Hyde Park is a fairly easy 7-mile ride (11 km) from the Loop using the Chicago Lakefront Path. You may cross under Lake Shore Dr at either the 51st St pedestrian bridge or the 55th or 57th St underpasses. The 57th St underpass will take you to the Museum of Science and Industry, of which the main body of the University of Chicago campus is 3 blocks west.Hyde Park is quite accommodating to cyclists; many students and faculty at the University ride around the neighborhood, making bikes fairly visible entities.
See
Kenwood Historic District
These impressive structures are all privately owned and unfortunately closed to the public. The only exception is the Nation of Islam mosque, but you should be sensitive to the fact it is a place of worship and is not accustomed to tourists.-
4944 S Woodlawn
address: 4944 S Woodlawn AveA gargantuan 8,000 square foot Tudor revival mansion once owned by Muhammad Ali. -
Drexel Fountain
address: at Hyde Park Blvd & Drexel AveThis ornate fountain that stands in the tiny Drexel Square Park is the oldest in Chicago — one of the first monuments erected in the Chicago area. Commissioned by a wealthy stockbroker by the name of Francis Drexel, who managed to get the avenue, square, and fountain all named after himself without ever setting foot in Chicago. -
Elijah Muhammad House
address: 4855 S Woodlawn AveBuilt by Elijah Muhammad, the founder of the Nation of Islam, it now serves as a 'National' House for the Nation of Islam. Designed by an Egyptian Architect, Dr. Mostafa Momen of Momen Architects & Consulting Engineers, it shares the same features of the four houses he designed for Elijah Muhammad's family located to the north, directly across the street. -
Isidore Heller House
address: 5132 S WoodlawnOne of Frank Lloyd Wright's earliest distinctive buildings (1897), often credited as the turning point in his early career when he shifted towards the Prairie School.
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phone: +1-773-924-1234address: 5039 S Greenwood AveIt looks like a Byzantine style mosque, but that minaret is actually a smokestack for this synagogue. The building was built in 1924 for the reform Isaiah Israel congregation, which later merged with Chicago's oldest Jewish congregation, Kehilath Anshe Ma'ariv (KAM), which in turn moved out of its massive temple on Drexel Avenue. The interior is marvelously elaborate. There are stained-glass depictions of humans, which is very unusual for a synagogue, and the walls appears to be made out of ancient stone but they're actually just plaster!
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phone: +1-773-336-7400address: 1200 E 47th StMasjid Al-Faatir is the largest of Chicago's Mosques. Founded by Boxing World Heavyweight Champion Muhammad Ali and his manager Jabir Herbert Muhammad (son of Elijah Muhammad) in 1987. It was later renovated with the help of the Late President of the UAE, Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al-Nahayan.
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McGill Mansion
address: 4938 S Drexel AveEasily mistaken for a French Castle, this mansion was built in 1893 for the Scottish McGill family, which founded the famous Montreal University of the same name. The mansion was converted into 34 condos in 2000. -
phone: +1-773-373-3366address: 930 E 50th StThe enormous classical revival building at 50th & Drexel is the national headquarters of the Reverend Jesse Jackson's Rainbow PUSH organization. The building's façade might lead you to expect a Lincoln-sized statue of the reverend inside, but this was actually a Jewish synagogue founded in 1932 by the aforementioned KAM.
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The Obama House
address: 5046 Greenwood AveThis beautiful house is home to the family of former U.S. President Barack Obama. The vacant lot to the left was the source of minor controversy in Chicago, when it came out that the Obama family had purchased it at sub-market rates from friend and criminal real estate broker Tony Rezko. You'll notice, despite the much touted media characterizations of their house as a "Hyde Park white-porticoed mansion," it's not actually in Hyde Park, and while a nice big house, it's no mansion. Good luck getting on the 5000 block of Greenwood — it's still the family house, and the block is closed off even to pedestrians, and crawling with police and Secret Service. You should be able to get a look up from the 51st St sidewalk, but lingering around taking photographs might draw unwelcome attention from security.
University of Chicago
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phone: +1-773-702-1234address: 5801 S Ellis AveOne of the world's great universities, the University of Chicago's Gothic campus exudes academic rigor and intellectual intensity, known to students as "the place where fun goes to die." Its imposing gray buildings make it a must-see for architecture fans. Even if you are not a prospective student, you can take advantage of its free campus tours.
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phone: +1-773-702-0200address: 5550 S Greenwood AveThe Smart museum is small, but has an excellent collection, thoughtfully exhibited. Staff is very friendly.
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phone: +1-773-702-8740address: 1100 E 57th StIf you are not a student and are not on a tour, you can't enter the gigantic collection of over 4.5 million volumes, but you can marvel at the exterior architecture. The building is one of the world's best examples of the Brutalist movement, which emphasized the structural materials (rough concrete in this case), as well as striking repetitions and irregularities of angular forms.
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Nuclear Energy Statue
address: 5700 S Ellis AveThis Henry Moore statue marks the area where Enrico Fermi and his team of scientists successfully produced the first controlled nuclear chain reaction. Although possibly unintended, visitors often see a resemblance to a human skull or mushroom cloud. -
phone: +1-773-702-9514address: 1155 E 58th StThe University of Chicago Oriental Institute has one of the best collections of ancient Egyptian and Near Eastern archeology in the world, which is moreover free, small, very well exhibited, and basically started by Indiana Jones. Some highlights include: much of the Assyrian "Fortress of Sargon," a colossal statue of King Tutankhamun, and the Mummy and Coffin of Meresamun. Visitors with a strong interest may want to devote several hours to pore over the dense exhibits, but the small museum can be quickly "skimmed" in 15 minutes.
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phone: +1-773-702-8670address: 5811 S Ellis Ave, Cobb Hall 418A small non-collecting contemporary art gallery that is over 100 years old and very highly respected. It will appeal greatly to art aficionados, less so to casual visitors.
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phone: +1-773-702-2100address: 5850 S Woodlawn AveThis giant Gothic church is named for the University founder, John D. Rockefeller, who intended it to be the "central and dominant feature" of the University. It may not be that, but it is impressive, with a huge organ and the second largest carillon in the world. A great way to view the chapel and experience its acoustics is by showing up for one of the Wednesday lunchtime organ concerts.
Other attractions
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phone: +1-773-324-5520address: 5020 S Cornell AveThe oldest alternative art venue in the city is dedicated to the visual arts, usually has several contemporary exhibits running at any given time, and frequent events like artist talks, poetry readings, and music performances.
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Jackson Park
phone: +1-773-256-0903address: 6401 S Stony Island AveNamed for President Andrew Jackson and the site of the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893. The most prominent monument remaining from the event is the fully gilded "Statue of the Republic." Other sites include the Osaka Garden on the Wooded Island, a series of lagoons designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, and several well-hidden bird watching trails along the water.
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Osaka GardenThe Osaka Garden grew out of the Pavilion for the Japanese Government at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition and was planned by Olmsted as well. During WWII, the gardens suffered from repeated anti-Japanese vandalism and arson, culminating in the site's abandonment to those unsavory types who inhabit abandoned urban parkland. Chicago's sister city, Osaka, donated the money in the 1980s to restore the gardens, prompting a name change from the Japanese Garden to the Osaka Garden. Today, the gardens are one of Chicago's finest secret places and a wonderful escape from harrowing tourist adventures.
Midway Park
Museum of Science and Industry
Do
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phone: +1-773-753-4472address: 5535 S Ellis AveExcellent dramatic theater on the University campus.
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phone: +1-773-702-8574 (office), +1-773-702-8575 (hotline)address: 1212 E 59th StThose zoning laws are again to "blame" for the total absence of any movie theaters in this section of Chicago. But their absence clearly benefits the longest-running student film society in the country, which puts on an impressive number of independent documentaries, art-house films, and other socially relevant movies throughout the year, all in a state-of-the-art cinema. Doc Films attracts a very knowledgeable crowd (perhaps because the students and neighborhood residents have no other movie options!) and it is a good place to eavesdrop on some intense, intellectual conversations.
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phone: +1-312-245-0909 (RSVP)address: 6300 S Hayes Dr18 holes of golf and a driving range, all in the middle of Jackson Park. Golf carts $15.
Jackson Park BeachesThere are better beaches further north and further south, but if you're here and want to get a swim in, Jackson Park's two beaches are fine — 57th St Beach is less than a ten minute walk from the Museum of Science and Industry.
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Midway Plaisance Ice Skating
phone: +1-312-745-2470address: 1130 Midway Plaisance N -
phone: +1-312-747-6620address: 5491 S Lake Shore DrPromontory Point is a beautiful spot to take in the great skyline view, gaze off into the blue, watch summer fireworks, or take a (technically illegal, but everybody does it) swim in its submerged beach (north side of the point). The Point was constructed under the depression era Works Progress Administration in the style of the Prairie School of park design.
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Reva and David Logan Center for the Arts
phone: +1-773-702-2787address: 915 E 60th StThis stunning new building brings professional, student, and community performing arts activities, creative arts studios, digital media production and gallery space under a single roof. The Logan Cafe offers a small plates menu, plus coffee, wine, and beer. -
University of Chicago Presents
phone: +1-773-702-8068address: Mandel Hall, 1131 E 57th StThe University of Chicago Presents hosts numerous classical music performances in Hyde Park, usually featuring big-name national and international performers for relatively low prices.
Buy
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phone: +1-773-684-1300address: 1301 E 57th StA branch of the University's Seminary Co-op that has frequent literary events, including poetry readings, author talks, and writing workshops.
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phone: +1-773-288-6588address: 1377 E 53rd StA huge selection of vinyl and a smaller selection of CDs.
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phone: +1-773-955-7780address: 1501 E 57th StUsed books overflowing the shelves, all over the place.
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phone: +1-773-752-4381address: 5751 S Woodlawn AveThe world's largest academic bookstore has a collection covering every topic. In October 2012, the Seminary Co-op moved into a space which was freshly remodeled and designed for them with funding from the University of Chicago. The former home of the Seminary Co-op is now home to the Becker-Friedman Institute, the university's Economics department as well as classroom and event space.
Eat
Budget
The odd "Thai Row" on 55th St deserves a mention. These are definitely not the best Thai restaurants in Chicago, but they serve tasty, greasy food in large portions on the cheap. No one seems to know why these Thai restaurants congregated in this one spot.-
phone: +1-773-643-6670address: 809 E 63rd StHuh? Daley worship in Woodlawn? No, that couldn't be and it isn't. Built by one John Daley, Chicago's oldest eatery has served as Woodlawn's neighborhood restaurant for about 120 years! As the Irish fled to the suburbs, the menu shifted towards offering nothing but the soulest soul food around (the breakfast is a particular draw — wonderful French toast). Owing to the housing projects just north, the area around this Green Line stop is on the rough side, but Daley's will treat you to a strong dose of delicious food and friendly service with nice atmosphere.
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phone: +1-773-363-6090address: 1456 E 53rd StThe Hyde Park outpost of this popular burger chain includes the usual features of a Five Guys experience: delicious cheeseburgers with way too many toppings, an excessive serving of fries, a Coca-Cola Freestyle machine, and free peanuts.
Harold's Chicken ShackThe great South Side fried chicken chain is cheap, usually a little dirty, and always delicious. Crowded at meal times.
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#14
phone: +1-773-725-9260address: 1208 E 53rd StThe Hyde Park location is easy to visit, with a parking lot and rare dine-in seating, but the quality vacillates. -
#2
phone: +1-773-363-9586address: 6419 S Cottage Grove AveAnother hit-or-miss unreliable Harold's location, just under the Green Line stop, in a considerably less welcoming environment than the Hyde Park location!
Café 57
Ribs 'N' Bibs
Siam Thai Restaurant
Mid-range
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Edwardo's Natural Pizza Restaurant
phone: +1-773-241-7960address: 1321 E 57th StCome here specifically for its famous stuffed spinach pizza and you won't regret it — well, you may regret the weight-gaining aftermath, but you won't regret the immediate experience. -
phone: +1-773-947-0200address: 5309 S Blackstone AveNot all Giordano's are created equal, but this is the original location and one of the better places in the city to try Chicago stuffed pizza. If some in your party are afraid to face the behemoth, there are plenty of non-pizza options on the menu.
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phone: +1-773-667-3727address: 1601 E 55th StFresh, high quality, traditional Japanese food.
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phone: +1-773-667-7394address: 1327 E 57th StAn Italian place very popular with the students, that can lay claim to above average baked goods, fine thin-crust pizza, Italian dishes, and a fun ambiance in their downstairs seating area (a separate door to the west of the street-level bakery, which is open only earlier in the day). Also serves excellent floats with flavors like almond and grenadine. If you ask the admissions office to recommend a nice place nearby to take your kid, they'll point you in this direction.
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phone: +1-773-324-7777address: 1501 E 53rd StGood upscale Italian cuisine and stuffed pizza at a reliable Chicagoland chain. Try the gourmet ingredients like feta cheese and fine sausage on a stuffed pizza for a deliciously fattening night. Great bread.
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Salonica
phone: +1-773-752-3899address: 1440 E 57th StAdequate, but overpriced, diner fare with some Greek and Mexican entries, and a constant flow of coffee. The nice atmosphere and comfy booths are the real reason to come and lounge about. -
phone: +1-773-324-3700address: 1312 E 53rd StItalian cafe/sushi bar serving up eclectic menu of fresh sushi, sandwiches, soups, and salads. Standout dishes include, oddly enough, their thin crust pizzas ($7 plain!), edamame (boiled peas on the pod done right), and a few favorite rolls like Chicago Fire and crunchy crab. Loft-casual decor with outdoor seating and full bar.
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phone: +1 773 643-0603address: 1125 E 55th StIf you're looking for something unusual and fun, try the "Bombe" stuffed pizza. The toppings are stuffed between the two crusts, and the result puffs up like a volcano that's about to explode. Brunch on the weekends.
Splurge
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phone: +1-773-324-6227address: 1206 E 53rd StCedar's is the most stylish choice of restaurants in Hyde Park, and the Lebanese cuisine should not disappoint.
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phone: +1-773-493-1394address: 1504 E 55th StA very good, unpretentious French restaurant on the south end of the Lake Shore shopping center. The U of C alumnae who own the place apparently tired of scientific research and moved to France for a while to graduate with honors from the prestigious Cordon Bleu Paris school of gastronomy. And Hyde Park rejoices.
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phone: +1-773-966-6669address: 1375 E 53rd StA good Japanese restaurant known for its all-you-can-eat sushi.
Drink
Mellow Yellow
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phone: +1-773-363-5300address: 5550 S South Shore DrA chain bar & grill, with unexciting food, and very slow service, but... stiff mojitos, outdoor seating, and location right by the beach makes for a great time in the summer. That the clientele is very diverse is another plus.
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phone: +1-773-324-1999address: 1509 E 53rd StCHANT is a restaurant and bar, but skip the food and go straight to the bar. (The food is fine, but the service is not.) The decor is extraordinarily chic for Hyde Park, and there's live entertainment (often jazz) F Sa starting at 9:30PM.
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phone: +1-773-684-1013address: 1750 E 55th StA loud, upbeat dive bar that's way more eclectic than whatever bars you've been to in the past. Its got a weird 70's nautical theme, interesting music on the jukebox, and cheap drinks. Unfortunately, it's also a tiny space and can get overcrowded.
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Falcon Inn
address: 1601 E 53rd StThe sleeper dive bar in Hyde Park, largely unknown to the student crowd. It's tucked away on a quiet section of 53rd Street, and serves an eclectic crowd of friendly locals, who come to relax, enjoy the very cheap beer, and the pizza through the window to Cholie's next door. (Cholie's pizza is a Chicago travesty, but hey, you're drinking $1.50 beer.) -
phone: +1-773-347-2695address: 1055 E 55th StBeer, bowling, shuffleboard, and an art deco ambiance. Its proximity to the University allows it to be overpriced, but it's the only place around to satisfy bowling urges, or to have a good beer outside. They also happen to have some very good foreign beers on tap.
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Woodlawn Tap
phone: +1-773-643-5516address: 1172 E 55th StFrom the University perspective, this is the one and only real bar in Hyde Park (and accordingly, the only establishment that was saved from the University-driven "urban removal"). A good place to be served beer by PhDs and to listen in on the intense intellectual debates about topics you didn't know existed. Some famous writers used to frequent the bar, including Saul Bellow and Dylan Thomas. Live jazz on Sunday nights and you might catch a University improv comedy group during the week. But above all, the dark cavernous atmosphere, the low-key vibe, and the greasy burgers make this one of the best dives in the city. While it's a university favorite, don't expect a rowdy singles scene here — it's the U of C, folks.
Sleep
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Hyatt Place Chicago-South/University Medical Center
phone: +1-773-752-5300address: 5225 S Harper AveHyatt Place Chicago-South/University Medical Center is a new hotel (opened in September 2013) that is located in the heart of Hyde Park's new Harper Court development. The hotel provides a complimentary shuttle to the University of Chicago. -
Hyde Park Arms Hotel
phone: +1-773-493-3500address: 5316 S Harper AveIf Kerouac and the Blues Brothers have interested you in checking into a transient hotel, the Hyde Park Arms is the place for you, as it is far cleaner and safer than its peers elsewhere. Hotel rooms leased weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly. The 70 rooms include standard hotel furnishings and a fridge, but no stove or microwave; all utilities are paid by the building, unless you want cable. -
phone: +1-773-753-2270address: 1414 E 59th StA student dormitory, which provides budget short-term accommodations to those "affiliated with either the University of Chicago or another cultural, educational or professional institution" (and their guests). They do their reservations (and information requests) by email. The rooms are mostly dorm rooms, but there are a couple nicer ones with private baths available (at significantly higher rates). Discounted weekly rates ares also available.
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phone: +1 773-280-5507address: 4900 S Lake Shore DrThis hotel is unfortunately far from anything in the area of interest, but its rates are low and it has plenty of free parking and a downtown shuttle.
Connect
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Blackstone Branch Library
phone: +1-312-747-0511address: 4904 S Lake Park AveThis particular library is not just a free internet joint, it's a beautiful work of art, filled with marble and murals. It was created as a charitable work by Timothy Blackstone, a 19th century railroad baron who also founded the Union Stockyards on the Southwest Side. -
Bessie Coleman Branch Library
phone: +1-312-747-7760address: 731 E 63rd St
Stay safe
The University has taken pains to protect the area in recent years by installing plenty of lights along the Midway and increasing its police presence. The University famously fields the second largest private police force in the world (the first being the Pope's), with full police powers. That means there are twice as many police in Hyde Park than any other neighborhood around.
Go next
- The famous Museum Campus and McCormick Center are just north in Chicago's Near South.
- Chicago's Bronzeville, the historic Black Metropolis, is just a stone's throw away from Hyde Park, and well worth a visit for its huge role in African-American history. In particular the DuSable Museum of African-American History (which is just across the street from the University of Chicago Hospital) is very easy to visit when in the University area and should not be missed.
- Oak Woods Cemetery, outstanding Memphis-style barbecue, and some of the best blues in the city are located a few miles south on Cottage Grove in Chatham and Greater Grand.
- If you are up for a little drive, head south to the historic planned industrial community of Pullman, on the Far Southeast Side, and afterward grab some incredible smoked shrimp at the 95th St bridge.