Chicago/Lincoln Park-Old Town
Sourced from Wikivoyage. Text is available under the CC-by-SA 3.0 license.
For other places with the same name, see Lincoln Park (disambiguation).
In Lincoln Park, collegians mix with freshly-minted lawyers and barrel-chested brokers, all come to seek their good fortune in beer gardens on the north side of Chicago, a short walk from miles of beautiful parks and the fabulous Lincoln Park Zoo. Just south is Old Town, a striking collision of rich and poor, and home of Chicago's two most celebrated theaters, Steppenwolf and Second City.
Understand
Back to that fire, though: refugees poured into the neighborhood for safety, and with their former homes in ashes, plenty of them decided to stay. Lots were sold to "worthy families," and it suddenly became a very fashionable place to live. With the arrival of the elevated train, a construction frenzy began. In fact, an estimated 60% of the buildings that stand in Lincoln Park date from the three decades after the fire. Cultural institutions emerged to match: for example, with the $10 purchase of a bear cub, the Lincoln Park Zoo opened to visitors in 1874, and DePaul University evolved from a small religious college to the center of life for the neighborhood, with strong academic and sports programs throughout much of the twentieth century. (Long-time basketball coach Ray Meyer introduced the concept of the skilled seven-footer to the sport when he recruited George Mikan in the 1940s.)
The area now known as Old Town was not so lucky in the Fire, but was spared the extensive damage of the city center. Today, its pre-fire history can be seen in the winding layout of the streets in the Old Town Triangle Historic District, and can be heard in the bells of St. Michael's Church, one of the few structures to stand in the path of the fire and survive. The neighborhood was hit hard by the urban flight of the 1950s, and many of those classic structures were converted into boarding houses that became affordable for beatniks: artists, folk musicians, actors, and others moved in and made Old Town into the counterculture capital of Chicago for the next two decades. Miles, Janis, Dylan, and Seeger played in and outside of the clubs in Old Town. It was where teens from staid neighborhoods (like Lincoln Park) came to feel the edge. Guitars! Long hair! Loitering! Old Town had it all.
Into this environment came the city's greatest comedic force, a group of ex-pats from Hyde Park who named their new theater The Second City, and reinvented American comedy. Years later, a similarly talented band of college actors arrived to establish Steppenwolf, who set the tone for the next two decades of dramatic theater.
The shocking violence of the 1968 Democratic Convention spelled the end of the hippie era in Old Town. Soon, property values were on the rise, and only the more financially successful countercultural outlets could stay in business. Today, you'll find a historic district and the new Chicago History Museum to guide you around, and you can split an amazing night at the theater with one of the trendy restaurants nearby. Old Town is divided, though: crumbling buildings sit on one side of North Avenue without ever much affecting a trip to Steppenwolf on the other side. Old Town is a neighborhood that knows the contradictions within its boundaries, and lives with them.
Also, to its credit, the Lincoln Park Zoo didn't rest on its laurels after it got that bear.
Get in
By train
The CTA Red Line runs along Sheffield Avenue and stops at Fullerton in Lincoln Park and North/Clybourn at the edge of Old Town. The Brown Line, further west, connects with the Red Line at Fullerton, but also makes stops in Lincoln Park at Armitage and Diversey, and in Old Town at Sedgwick.The Metra Union Pacific Northwest Line and Union Pacific North Line stop at the Clybourn station just across the Chicago River on Armitage just west of Ashland, from which you can catch the 73 Armitage bus into Lincoln Park. The Clybourn Metra station, despite its name, is not on Clybourn Avenue.
By bus
- 8 Halsted runs past Steppenwolf's front door in Old Town.
- 22 Clark runs all night north/south down Clark Street, from the Near North and through both Old Town and Lincoln Park, before heading on to Lakeview.
- 37 Sedgwick runs north/south on Sedwick from Fullerton, into Old Town, River North and the Loop.
- 72 North runs on North Avenue, into the heart of Old Town, and on to Bucktown.
- 73 Armitage serves the Armitage shopping corridor.
- 74 Fullerton runs east/west on Fullerton, the major artery in Lincoln Park.
- 76 Diversey runs east/west on Diversey, the border between Lincoln Park and Lakeview, and continues to Logan Square.
- 151 Sheridan and 156 LaSalle both reach the Lincoln Park Zoo and the lakefront from the Near North. The 151 runs all night.
By car
Lake Shore Drive has exits at Fullerton for Lincoln Park and North Avenue for Old Town. From the Kennedy Expressway, take any of the eastbound exits at Division, North, Fullerton, and Diversey.Traffic is not swift on the streets of Lincoln Park and Old Town, but it's generally manageable. Beware of parking on side streets that require residential permits. (If you're not parking at a meter, take a quick walk up and down the block to make sure that a permit isn't required to park there.)
There are parking garages in close proximity to the theaters (notably Piper's Alley in Old Town) and on the grounds of the Lincoln Park Zoo ($14, 1-3 hours).
See
The Lincoln Park Zoo and the lakefront are the biggest highlights for a day here, especially with kids, but a few sights, particularly the Biograph Theater and the historic districts, are at their most powerful by night.
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Biograph Theater
address: 2433 N Lincoln AvePlays are shown here (see Victory Gardens below), but the theater is still best known as the place where John Dillinger went down in 1934. America's most famous bank robber was leaving after a movie with the Lady in Red when FBI agents opened fire. The owners of the theater have never been keen to play up the connection, but the classic marquee is still there. Reportedly, Dillinger fans hold gatherings outside on July 22, the anniversary of his death. -
phone: +1-312-642-4600address: 1601 N Clark StA creative urban history museum. Exhibits include The Pioneer, the first railroad locomotive to operate in Chicago, and the bed upon which Abraham Lincoln died; more fun for kids is the Chicago-style Hot Dog showcase, which supplies all the giant plastic ingredients you'll need to turn yourself (or your little brother) into a life-sized hot dog (no ketchup, of course). They also host regular tours of different CTA lines and walking tours of Lincoln Park and Old Town.
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Elks National Veterans Memorial
phone: +1-773-755-4876address: 2750 N Lakeview AveThis neoclassical veterans memorial is truly grand. Its interior is an extravagant ensemble of marble, bronze sculptures, stained glass, and huge murals. -
International Museum of Surgical Science
phone: +1-312-642-6502address: 1524 N Lake Shore DrHoused in a historic mansion, the museum contains four floors of exhibits dedicated to the history of medicine and surgery and is filled with artwork and artifacts ranging from Incan surgical tools circa 2000 BCE to state-of-the-art prosthetic joints. Of special interest to those in the medical field, the collection appeals to anyone interested in history, art, science and architecture. Lincoln ParkThe 1.5-mile-long park from which the neighborhood draws its name is dotted with statues of people with ties to Chicago or Germany (like Goethe), and features plenty of paths for running wide-open green space for sports, and even a rowing lagoon to the west.
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phone: +1-312-742-7736address: 2400 N Stockton DrBuilt 1890-1895, the conservatory is right next to the zoo. Even though they're overshadowed by the animals next door, the plants receive an equal amount of care, and there are usually some eye-popping floral displays in the spring. Volunteer-led tours are sometimes available at no cost.
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phone: +1-312-742-2000address: 2200 N Cannon DrFew things in Chicago are finer than the Lincoln Park Zoo. It's world-class, yet admission is free; its winding, expansive grounds have the charm of age, yet its facilities are modern and the animals are healthy, happy, and personable. The brand new Great Ape House is one to see, and the Farm in the Zoo features plenty for kids to do, but everyone has their own favorites (penguins).
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phone: +1-773-755-5100address: 2430 N Cannon DrCarefully positioned within walking distance of the Lincoln Park Zoo in hopes of being parents' second stop while they're in the area, the Notebaert Nature Museum is... okay. Exhibits are geared toward kids and are sometimes hands-on. The only consistent must-see is the butterfly haven.
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phone: +1-312-742-7898address: 2021 N Burling StYoung children might enjoy this Wizard of Oz-themed park with statues and playlots.
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phone: +1-312-440-2322address: 245 W North AveA member of the River North gallery scene, with contemporary art, including paint, drawings and sculpture.
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National Shrine of Saint Frances Xavier Cabrini
phone: +1-773-360-5115address: 2520 N Lakeview AveHistorically, spiritually and architecturally, the Shrine is a "must see" destination for Chicago visitors. The Shrine Honors the first American Citizen Saint and Patron of Immigrants in the Catholic Church. Designed by world renowned architect Leonard Gliotto, the Shrine is a celebration of carrara marble, Florentine stained glass, gold mosaics, colorful frescoes and Romanesque splendor. All are welcome to visit the chapel, meditation garden, historical exhibit and gift shop. Visitors may take a self-guided tour or schedule a docent-led tour. Catholic Mass is celebrated Saturday at 4PM and Sunday at 10AM.
Historic districts
These areas have some of the most impressive homes in Chicago, and can be covered easily on foot. For guided walking tours, check with the Chicago History Museum (above).-
Astor Street Historic District
address: Astor St, between Division and NorthNear Old Town, on what's often referred to as the Gold Coast, Astor Street was named for the fur tycoon John Jacob Astor, and does him tribute on his favored terms — these are the most expensive houses in Chicago. The atmosphere is the main attraction, but the 1892 Charnley House (1365 N Astor St) is particularly interesting, marking a halfway point between the distinctive styles of master architect Louis Sullivan and his apprentice Frank Lloyd Wright. There are also some interesting Art Deco homes like Holabird & Root's design at 1444 N Astor St. -
Mid-North Historic District
address: Between Fullerton Ave, Clark St, Armitage Ave, Lincoln Ave, and Orchard StThere are several nice blocks of Lincoln Park near the lake, but the Italianate, Queen Anne, and Romanesque homes of the Mid-North District are especially lovely. Three survived the Chicago Fire (2121 N Hudson, 2339 N Cleveland, 2343 N Cleveland), and two were early designs of Louis Sullivan (440 W Belden Ave, 2147 N Cleveland St). The 1882-89 row houses between Belden and Fullerton are worth a look, too. As you walk, you'll see the faded white-and-blue signs of the Church of Our Savior (530 W Fullerton Ave), founded in 1867 (although the present structure dates from 1889). -
Old Town Triangle District
address: Between North Ave, Lincoln Ave, and Wells StSeveral blocks of beautiful cottages and row houses, notably the five at 1826-34 N Lincoln Park West, which were designed by Louis Sullivan in 1885. The anchor of the district is St. Mike's (below). -
phone: +1-312-642-2498address: 1633 N Cleveland AveUnveiled in 1869, the walls of St Mike's were all that remained after the Chicago Fire swept through Old Town, making it one of only six structures to survive — and the tallest in the city until 1885. A tower was added in 1887, and the current stained glass windows date from 1902. It serves the Redemptorist faith, a branch of Catholicism, with seating for more than 1000 people.
Do
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phone: +1-312-742-7529address: 1600 N Lake Shore DrQuite possibly the beach volleyball capital of the Midwest. There are semi-pro leagues here, and plenty of nets for amateurs to show up and play. There's also an enclosed roller-hockey rink and plenty of people whizzing past on the wide bike lanes. The North Avenue Beach House is a big boat-shaped structure at the center (look for the red smokestacks) where there are a few food and drink options, occasional live music, and Park District offices. A couple blocks south, toward Oak Street Beach, there are chess tables.
Events & festivals
Summers in Lincoln Park are full of festivals, with one for every major street and parish. Expect beer, non-descript food and a few jam bands. Old Town has one that's definitely worth singling out, though.-
phone: +1-312-337-1938address: Just north of North Ave at Lincoln Ave and Wisconsin StOne of the premiere neighborhood festivals in Chicago, for almost 60 years. There's plenty of pretty stuff to buy, of course, with roughly 250 artists selected by a jury to participate and again at the fair for award purposes. But there's also food and good live music (local high school and national performers), garden walks through the historic district and the neighborhood at its early summer best.
Theaters
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phone: +1-773-935-6100address: 2540 N Lincoln AveAn eclectic mix on two stages includes solo shows, major contemporary plays like "Ragtime" and "The Vagina Monologues," and the popular improvised musicals of Baby Wants Candy (Sa 10:30PM, $15).
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phone: +1-773-525-2501address: 2424 N Lincoln AveOnce of the best concert venues in Chicago, this former movie theater received a beautiful renovation in 2009 and now hosts good, moderately priced ($12-15) indie rock shows most nights of the week. (Keep an eye out for some excellent free events on Sundays.) Arrive early for a space in the roomy balcony or a few drinks in the comfortable bar area. There's a Dillinger connection here, too — the FBI's sharpshooters were camped out on the theater's roof, waiting for him to leave the Biograph.
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phone: +1-773-929-5959address: 322 W Armitage AveThis converted movie theater (and former burlesque hall) has some of the best acoustics in the U.S., and it's surprisingly intimate considering it can seat up to a thousand. None other than Ringo Starr has said that Park West is second only to London's Royal Albert Hall. Fans will crowd the stage, but the best seats are toward the back, near the main bar and in the balconies... or call in advance to reserve a booth.
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phone: +1-773-244-8119 (office), +1-773-404-7336 (Theater)address: Greenhouse Theater Center: 2257 N Lincoln AveFor the past decade, Remy Bumppo Theatre Company's passion for the power of great theatrical language has enriched Chicago's world-class theatre scene. Masterful acting and directing by the company's ensemble of professional artists showcases the wit and wisdom of the world's great playwrights. A hallmark of Remy Bumppo's work is the intimacy of its 150-seat theater, which puts you close to the actors, sweeping you into each play's exhilarating mix of passionate storytelling and invigorating ideas. And the best part is, after the curtain call ends and the houselights go up, you sense the whirring of brain cells around you. The play lives on as the conversation begins.
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phone: +1-312-988-9000address: 1641 N Halsted StHome to the long-running Late Night Catechism and its variations, the Royal George has a couple of stages for "cheeky" parodies and satires that go down nice with moderately wealthy white folks.
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phone: +1-312-337-3992address: 1616 N Wells StThe list of Second City alumni in show business has become something of a cliche — Alan Alda, John Belushi, Bill Murray, on and on — and it's still going strong today, with recent graduates like Stephen Colbert, Steve Carell, and Tina Fey. The separate revues on the Mainstage and the e.t.c. theaters are consistently smart, timely, and funny. (The third stage, Donny's Skybox, is rented out to local sketch troupes outside the artistic direction of Second City, and is hit-or-miss.) The third act of the night is fully improvised, and if there's space left among the paying customers from the first two acts, admission is free.
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phone: +1-312-335-1650address: 1650 N Halsted StThe creation of John Malkovich, Gary Sinise, and many others, Steppenwolf features cutting-edge theater and doesn't trade on the famous name, offering both original material and incisive re-stagings of classic plays (like a terrific recent production of The Crucible). Unlike Second City, the famous alumni of Steppenwolf make occasional returns to the stage as their schedules allow.
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phone: +1-773-871-3000address: 2433 N Lincoln AveOne of the premier Off-Loop theaters in Chicago, Victory Gardens hosts a noteworthy slate of original plays and adaptations both fun and dramatic. Among their several stages is the Biograph Theater, and they're kind enough to screen classic movies there ($5) from time to time so people can relive old Hollywood and ill-fated dates of John Dillinger.
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phone: +1-312-337-4027address: 1548 N Wells StThis is Chicago's flagship stand-up comedy club and hosts all the big international stand-up touring acts. Each show hosts two openers, a great chance to see some future stars as some of the Second City folk develop their voice. It is a must see place for Chicago Comedy.
Buy
Trendy boutique shopping can be found at the shops on Armitage between Halsted and Sheffield in Lincoln Park.
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phone: +1-312-587-3338address: 210 W North Ave, Piper's AlleyReinforce tired feet and outdoor gear here. Fun runs on M-W at 6:30PM (Tu women only).
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phone: +1-773-281-5655address: 824 W Armitage AveReinforce unfashionable feet and unremarkable soles here. Handbags and jewelry available as well.
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phone: +1-312-642-8763address: 1538 N Wells StIf you can't make it to Shedd, at least you can go to one of their sources, and without the price of admission. Old Town Aquarium stocks freshwater and saltwater fish from around the world, and they have an extensive portfolio of custom aquarium designs to their credit.
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Rotofugi Designer Toy Store & Gallery
phone: +1-773-868-3308address: 2780 N Lincoln AveNow is battle coming tofu robot, plush ninja, Glow Kaiju Eyezon. It is the proposal of bad weather for justice. Can you do no less? Right here to bring you.
Eat
The Lincoln Park Zoo may be free, but the food court and the concessions are a bit steep. If you need to eat at the zoo, take some solace in remembering how much you paid to get in!
Budget
The DePaul area has a lot of fast food targeted at students, mostly sandwich and noodle shops.-
phone: +1-773-472-3505address: 1118 W Fullerton AveThis mom-and-pop establishment has been whipping up sandwiches for DePaul students since 1976, and the service alone is worth the trip. Fries are free with almost everything on the menu and a Jumbo Chicago style dog with fries and a large drink comes to about 5 bucks. Cash only.
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phone: +1-773-472-3505address: 2441 N Lincoln AveBreakfast all day and night, although burgers are available, too. The food is decent at best, but the hours make it a must-know for anyone on the Lincoln Park bar scene.
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phone: +1-773-857-1576address: 507 W Dickens AveCityGrounds coffee bar serves artisan coffee, loose leaf tea and locally produced pastries, cakes and breads. Serves the locally roasted coffees of Metropolis Coffee Company.
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phone: +1-312-638-9151address: 2521 N Clark StIf you're in the park by the lakefront, or if you're carrying a lighter wallet after a trip to the Century Shopping Centre in Lakeview a couple blocks north, the prices are absurdly low for the amount of satisfaction you'll get from the Mediterranean salad bar or falafel sandwiches here. They also do a fine shawerma.
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phone: +1-773-235-6652address: 2501 N Damen AveHoo boy, it's the motherlode. This is where all Chicago's hot dogs are born (not to mention Polish sausages, Italian Beef, and other assorted deli meats). You cannot eat a truer Chicago hot dog than in the factory itself, and the prices are among the best in the city. Parking is easy in the outside lot.
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The Wiener's Circle
address: 2622 N Clark StThe food is only so-so, the prices fair, but what makes this walk-up joint famous is the staff, who have zero patience for customers and the colorful language skills of a bartender at the seediest dockside bar imaginable. A favorite of the late-night crowd, who after a long night of drinking seem to find major entertainment value in being served a massive dose of profane invective with their greasy chili fries and Chicago-style hot dogs.
Mid-range
Lincoln Park is crammed with mid-range Italian restaurants. Sushi places aren't rare, either.-
phone: +1-773-472-7400address: 2204 N Lincoln AveA Lincoln Park branch of the Loop favorite that serves what many call the city's best stuffed pizza.
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phone: +1-312-664-3663address: 1400 N Wells StReliable and sometimes exceptional sushi at this Old Town outlet of the Chicago sushi chainlet. There's relief for vegetarians as well: try the agedashi tofu.
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phone: +1-773-832-4030address: 958 W Wrightwood AveLincoln Park branch of the deep-dish pizza giant. This location has outdoor seating and a nice park across the street.
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Mayan Palace
phone: +1-773-935-4200address: 2703 N Halsted StGood Mexican food in a relaxed atmosphere, indoor and outdoor seating. Don't put much stock in their claim regarding the best margaritas in the world (1/2 price Tu&Th), but their mole sauce and their fried ice cream are worth bragging about. -
phone: +1-773-327-1512address: 2207 N Clybourn AveGreat place to get caramelized/burnt crust Chicago style deep dish pizza, considered a secret favorite.
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phone: +1-773-348-1010address: 2660 N Halsted StGreat Indian food with an extensive menu. The service is creaky and the staff always seem to be breaking in flocks of new busboys, but the taste and decor are worth the stop.
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Riccardo Trattoria
phone: +1-773-549-0038address: 2660 N Halsted StUnpretentious and authentic Italian restaurant rated among the best in Chicago, with traditional pastas and numerous other dishes to choose from. -
phone: +1-773-327-2652address: 2119 N Clark StIndian/Pakistani cuisine, good bite before the B.L.U.E.S. or the Kingston Mines.
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phone: +1-312-266-1616address: 1655 N Sedgwick StImpress your friends with your knowledge of Chicago by "stumbling across" this hidden neighborhood joint. Once Frank Sinatra's favorite restaurant in town, it's best known for its ribs, although they also have decent steak.
Splurge
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phone: +1-312-867-0110address: 1723 N Halsted StRanked seventh in the world in 2012 by Restaurant Magazine (second in the USA), and Chicago's only restaurant to hold three stars from Michelin; that's only the beginning of the acclaim for Alinea and Chef Grant Achatz. Reservations can be tough to get; start well in advance with the ticket system on their website and keep an eye on their social media for same-night tables.
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phone: +1-312-337-6070address: 1729 N Halsted StThe menu mixes Japanese, Mediterranean, European, and dang ol' Midwestern food without apparent self-consciousness. Plenty of seafood and a raw bar, too. Dinners are satisfying but light, making it the perfect place for a pre-show meal. You won't need formal dress, but you will need a reservation.
Drink
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phone: +1-312-649-0730address: 1260 N Dearborn StOnce known as the Chicago meet-up spot for 2600, the computer hackers quarterly, 3rd Coast is an upscale late-night oasis amid blocks of impressive, silent Old Town row houses. Evenings feature jazz and solo guitarists, and the food is far above average for a cafe.
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address: 2519 N Halsted StSmall but dedicated blues bar. On Sundays, one cover charge gets you into B.L.U.E.S. and Kingston Mines across the road. This is one of the true Chicago blues experiences.
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phone: +1-773-472-2771address: 2771 N Lincoln AveThis is the joint where Kurt (Cobain) met Courtney (Love). No kidding. The booze selection is unbeatable and recent almost-rock-stars spin the records.
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address: 2548 N Halsted StThe larger of the blues bars on Halsted. Has a great set-up with two stages and two bands every night. One band plays for an hour on one stage then the other band takes over on the second stage for an hour — continuous music all night from 9:30PM.
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Liar's Club
phone: +1-773-665-1110address: 1665 W Fullerton AveGood place to dance on the weekend — the DJs play the hits and know how to take the measure of the frat-free crowd. The round wood track-lit dance floor is a stand-out, too. If your friends don't dance, they can wait at the bar upstairs.
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phone: +1-312-944-7020address: 219 W North AveAn old-time Old Town dive, decorated with photos and newspaper clippings to show its history and favored status among famous Second City alums. Note the very late hours.
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phone: +1-773-868-0608address: 1480 W Webster AveWebster's has wine tastings/classes twice a month, and all of the expertise to satisfy a sophisticate.
Sleep
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phone: +1-773-929-5380address: 616 W Arlington PlHostel kitchen, laundry, games, guitars.
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address: 644 W Diversey PkwyFrequented by touring bands in town to play at one of the many big clubs on the north side.
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phone: +1-773-348-2810address: 601 W Diversey PkwyA short walk to the Lincoln Park Zoo and the lakefront.
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phone: +1-773-549 1743address: 2101 N Clifton AveA one- or two-bedroom suite in the heart of Lincoln Park.
Connect
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Lincoln Park Library
phone: +1-312-744-1926address: 1150 W Fullerton AvePublic library with free internet access. Two blocks west of the train station.
Go next
- If you are in the mood for exploration, and would like to evade the sports bar scene in Lincoln Park, consider heading west across the river to Wicker Park or Bucktown for some more colorful nightlife and shopping.