Chicago/Logan-Bucktown

The area now known as Logan Square was born in the boomtown days of the 1830s, when schoolteacher Martin Kimbell rejected a plot in the obviously going-nowhere Loop in favor of good, solid farmland about five miles northwest. The area remained independent from the city until temptations like water and fire departments became too much to resist, and in 1889, Chicago took over. (The streets were upgraded, but they were also renamed — most cruelly, "Kimbell" became "Kimball".)
And if you were a goat farmer in the city around that time, Bucktown was the place to be. You knew that you were in a place that understood the importance of goats, and that any goats you owned would be in good company. As home to farms, factories, and immigrants who were employed by them, Bucktown never developed any major tourist attractions, but it did support plenty of bars for discussions of issues both goat-related and non-goat-related, and that preponderance of cheap bars is still intact.
Logan Square, on the other hand, was named for the Civil War hero Gen. John A. Logan, and its tree-lined boulevards — one of which bears his name — are what really set the neighborhood apart from its neighbors, offering wide-open spaces for leisurely trawls by cars, bikes, and pedestrians alike. (Fittingly, Ignaz Schwinn, founder of the Schwinn bicycle company, settled in Logan Square.) The neighborhood became a destination for immigrants who'd struck it rich in Chicago, and they helped build the beautiful housing stock that survives today, even after the business district collapsed in the 1950s.
It's those magnificent graystones and richly detailed brick classics that draw waves of new residents to Logan Square today. Right now, it's the best of both worlds: murals and community gardens decorate the streets, and new residents kick portions of their salaries to businesses run by older ones, enjoying authentic taquerias on wide, sunny boulevards that are (mostly) rich with gritty, urban character and (generally) safe.
Despite the critical shortage of goats at present, the chameleon-like Bucktown prospers from proximity to Wicker Park, with retail and restaurants that take their cues from the hipster paradise to its south, rough-and-tumble spots that resemble Logan on the other side, and new condos not dissimilar to Lincoln Park to the east. Bucktown is less notable than Logan Square in terms of looks, with a lot of same-y new construction hurried up to meet housing demand, but it also has some great bars and essential music venues with nightly bills of jazz, scuzz and genius.

By train

The O'Hare branch of the CTA Blue Line has stops in Bucktown (Damen, Western) and Logan Square (California, Logan Square). It runs all night.

By bus

• 49 Western runs through Bucktown all night, connecting with the Blue Line at Western and Armitage.
• 52 Kedzie/California travels on California through both neighborhoods, connecting with the Blue Line at the California station, and on to the Far West Side.
• 56 Milwaukee is the key route, running from Wicker Park, through Bucktown and Logan Square, and on to the Far Northwest Side. It connects near the Blue Line at Damen, again at California, and again at the Logan Square stop.
• 82 Kimball runs through Logan Square till midnight, connecting with the Blue Line at the Logan Square stop (Spaulding entrance).

Three buses connect Bucktown with Lincoln Park, Old Town, and the lakefront, not to mention the Red, Purple, and Brown Lines:

• 72 North runs a quick route between the Brown/Purple (Sedgwick) and Red (North/Clybourn) Lines and the Blue Line (Damen) at the center of the Wicker Park/Bucktown shopping district.
• 73 Armitage connects with the Blue Line at Western.
• 74 Fullerton connects with the Blue Line at California.
• 76 Diversey connects with the Blue Line at Logan Square.

By car

I-90/94, also known as the Kennedy Expressway, runs close to Logan Square and Bucktown. Diversey Avenue is the main exit for the neighborhood. Street parking is usually not a problem in Logan Square, but check for permit-only parking on side streets — the posted hours are a bit weird, and cops go on ticket binges every once in a while. Logan Boulevard itself usually offers plentiful open parking, though.

One of Logan Square's most celebrated features is Logan Boulevard itself, which is lined with century-old, show-of-wealth mansions. For an easy walking tour, start west of the I-90/94 underpass, and walk west to the Illinois Centenary Memorial Column, veering off to walk south on Kedzie for a few more blocks of the same. They're enjoyable by sight alone on a sunny day, but community groups like Logan Square Preservation hold occasional guided tours and garden walks.

• Covenant Presbyterian Church

  phone: +1-773-486-9590
  address: 2012 W Dickens Ave
  This Presbyterian church is housed in the former Cathedral of All Saints of the Polish National Catholic Church in Chicago. A historic church building, its interior decor is painted in a style imitating Master Cracovian painter Stanisław Wyspiański, while the nave is lined with depictions of the historic crests of Polish cities.

• Illinois Centenary Memorial Column

  address: Milwaukee Ave, Logan Blvd, and Kedzie Ave
  Not a sight to seek out, but it’s hard to miss — this column was erected in 1918 to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of Illinois’ statehood, and topped with an eagle to show the committee members weren’t messing around. It’s out of step with the rest of the neighborhood now, but hey, only a few more years until it’s time for an update!

• John Rath House

  address: 2703 W Logan Blvd
  Nestled among the mansions of Logan Boulevard, this 1907 Prairie School house by George Maher makes a nice contrast with its elegant lines and lack of Euro mish-mash.

• Palmer Square Park

  phone: +1-773-227-3535
  address: 3100 W Palmer Blvd
  Designed by William LeBaron Jenney, designer to the (Victorian) stars, and a lovely job at that — with plenty of trees, shade, and green space. When New Belgium brewery brought its Tour de Fat to Chicago in 2008, it chose beautiful Palmer Square.

• St. Mary of the Angels

  phone: +1-773-278-2644
  address: 1850 N Hermitage Ave
  One of the city's most beautiful churches, this classic Polish Cathedral is now administered by the priests of the Opus Dei order of Catholicism.

The best reason to visit Bucktown and Logan Square is the music scene, which includes several bars — see also the below.

• Congress Theater

  phone: +1-312-458-9668
  address: 2135 N Milwaukee Ave
  Opened in 1926 and still adorned with gorgeous terra cotta, the semi-decrepit Congress Theater is now home to the twin powers of Mexican wrestling and indie rock of an occasionally exceptional caliber. It's standing room only on the floor, but there is first-come first-serve seating in the balcony.

• Diversey River Bowl

  phone: +1-773-227-5800
  address: 2211 W Diversey Ave
  Never mind the bollocks, it's the Rock 'n Bowl. 36 lanes ensure that you won't be crowded out by league play, although there can be a long wait on weekends. The music and staff are great, pitchers of beer (cheap and classy) and pizza (greasy and, uh, greasy) are available, and old-school arcade games and photo-booths help pass the wait, and it's smoke-free.

• Fireside Bowl

  phone: +1-773-486-2700
  address: 2648 W Fullerton Ave
  There are better places to bowl and much better places to see live music, but this is hallowed ground for the teen punk of the '80s and '90s, when the Fireside was a cheap, all-ages venue for punk, hardcore, emo, and more. It's definitely not that any more — not surprisingly, neighborhood residents were never fond of the noise and the youth, and the owner found it easier to survive as a straight bowling alley.

• Gorilla Tango Theater

  phone: +1-773-598-4549
  address: 1919 N Milwaukee Ave
  Not many places in Chicago can match Gorilla Tango for sheer quantity — even on cold, quiet Wednesday nights, you'll find two unknown theater companies doing low-budget comedies at this Bucktown storefront theater. The end results may be scattershot, but the energy is usually high and the titles alone will liven up any story about what you did on your trip.

• Logan Square Auditorium

  phone: +1-773-252-6179
  address: 2359 N Kedzie Ave
  It's under-utilized on weeknights, but this ballroom-with-a-liquor-license hosts weekend rock shows and the occasional label showcase for mainstays of Chicago music like Thrill Jockey.

• Logan Square Farmers Market

  phone: +1-773-489-3222
  address: 3100 W Logan Blvd
  In 2012, the Chicago Reader named the LSFM "Best Farmers Market" in the city. Outdoors along Logan Boulevard in the summer, indoors at the Congress Theater (see above) in the winter.

• Logan Square Skate Park

  address: 2430 W Logan Blvd
  Ten ramps and half-pipes, benches, an asphalt surface, and a drinking fountain. It's under the I-90/94 overpass.

• Logan Theatre

  phone: +1-773-342-5555
  address: 2646 N Milwaukee Ave
  Opened in 1915 with 975 seats and still showing movies today, although it has since been carved up into four screens for second-run Hollywood fare.

• Whirlyball

  phone: +1-773-486-7777
  address: 1825 W Webster Ave
  An entertainment center with two fine ways to burn off steam: the title game, which adds the bumper cars that Native Americans always meant lacrosse to have, and laser tag. Packages are available with beer and bar food.

Bucktown

There are two main shopping areas in Bucktown. The first is near the intersection of Milwaukee, Damen, and North Avenue, right at the border of Wicker Park, where you’ll find small, independent stores and boutiques. However, for the big-box experience, drive up to Damen and Elston, where a couple of strip malls offer major retailers and plenty of parking.

• The Red Balloon

  phone: +1-773-489-9800
  address: 1940 N Damen Ave
  Fun, original clothes, furniture, and toys for kids — if you'd like to get your child's life started right, you'll know the value of a magnetized wooden pirate ship (complete with crew and monkey).

Logan Square

The six corners of Diversey, Milwaukee, and Kimball mark the center of the old retail district in Logan Square. It's an odd sight to see national chains like The Gap shoehorned into old art deco facades.

• Disco City Records

  phone: +1-773-486-1495
  address: 2630 N Milwaukee Ave
  One of the premier Latin music stores in Chicago, with a long rack of new releases, DVDs, and Spanish musical instruments (mainly bongos).

• G-Mart

  phone: +1-773-384-0400
  address: 2641 N Kedzie Ave
  If you need a comic book fix, G-Mart is the place. They carry titles from major and indie publishers alike, sold by a gonzo sales crew.

• Threads, Etc.

  phone: +1-773-276-6411
  address: 2327 N Milwaukee Ave
  A nearly warehouse-sized resale store, covering two floors. There's more furniture than anything else, but there should be some good finds on any given day amid the intriguing clutter.

• Wolfbait & B-Girls

  phone: +1-312-698-8685
  address: 3131 W Logan Blvd
  Clothes and jewelry for women, with everything designed, handmade, and sold in Chicago.

Logan Square covers a lot of culinary ground — stray off the beaten path and you'll find places serving Argentinean, Colombian, Cuban, Ecuadorian, El Salvadorian, and regional Mexican specialties.

Budget

• Arturo's Tacos

  phone: +1-773-772-4944
  address: 2001 N Western Ave
  The cheap late-night food of choice among trendy chefs and bar-goers alike in Bucktown, right outside the Blue Line. (Or is it Lazo's? See below.)

• El Charro

  phone: +1-773-278-2514
  address: 2410 N Milwaukee Ave
  There is no reason to seek out El Charro during the day, but if you're drinking in Logan Square, you need to know where the all-night Mexican food can be found. The soothing aqua walls and the steadfast Ms. Pac-Man machine don't hurt, either.

• Lazo's Tacos

  phone: +1-773-486-3303
  address: 2009 N Western Ave
  If you're not one to stay neutral in a hotly-debated issue, you'll want to declare a loyalty between Lazo's and Arturo's for taco supremacy of this street. Both are cheap, but consider carefully: locals take this question very seriously.

• Margie's Candies

  phone: +1-773-384-1035
  address: 1960 N Western Ave
  There's an argument to be made for putting Margie's at the top of the list of things to do and see in this article; thankfully, the Blue Line and two bus lines converge at this holy ice cream shop, founded in 1921. There's diner food as well if you need "dinner" to justify the frenzy.

Mid-range

• Buono Terra

  phone: +1-773-289-3800
  address: 2535 N California Ave
  Great Italian restaurant in Logan Square.

• El Cid

  phone: +1-773-395-0505
  address: 2645 N Kedzie Ave
  Pretty good Mexican food in Logan Square. The outdoor seating is especially nice, well away from the street rather like sitting in someone's backyard.

• Fat Willy's Rib Shack

  phone: +1-773-782-1800
  address: 2416 W Schubert Ave
  Pulled pork sandwiches and southern-style BBQ in Logan Square.

• Taqueria Moran

  phone: +1-773-235-2663
  address: 2226 N California Ave
  Easy to find, this taqueria is roomy and has a bit of old-style diner class, perfect for breakfast chilaquiles and solid for Mexican lunch and dinner standards.

• Toast

  phone: +1-773-772-5600
  address: 2046 N Damen Ave
  Popular Bucktown brunch spot. There are some clever and unique creations on the menu alongside breakfast standards, best topped with a tall glass of their tasty orange juice.

Splurge

• Le Bouchon

  phone: +1-773-862-6600
  address: 1858 N Damen Ave
  In Bucktown. Small, funky bistro with a limited but excellent menu of standard French fare. For peak dining hours you will need a reservation. Reasonably priced. Monday is 1/2-price wine night, and on Tuesday the entire menu is prix fixe – your choice of appetizer, main course, and dessert for

• Lula Cafe

  phone: +1-773-489-9554
  address: 2537 N Kedzie Ave
  A very popular neighborhood restaurant, serving an eclectic mix of new inventions and creatively remixed standards. Because of its popularity, lines can be really long on Friday and Saturday nights.

Bars

• Bob Inn

  phone: +1-773-342-2309
  address: 2609 W Fullerton Ave
  Good place to watch a baseball game with a cheap beer...as long as you're a White Sox fan. Otherwise, it's a good place to relax and wish you were a regular.

• The Burlington

  phone: +1-773-384-3243
  address: 3425 W Fullerton Ave
  This, on the other hand, is definitely a Cubs bar, with plasma screens for the games and lovingly engineered old-man ambiance. When baseball isn't on, music becomes the foremost concern; it's too crowded for a dance floor, but DJs are usually on by 10PM.

• Dunlays on the Square

  phone: +1-773-227-2400
  address: 3137 W Logan Blvd
  Beautiful bar, comfortable booths, good beer & great food (even for the veggies out there).

• Green Eye Lounge

  phone: +1-773-227-8851
  address: 2403 W Homer St
  Just off Western and Milwaukee. The owners of the Green Eye Lounge are experts in the art of the neighborhood bar — see also Lemming's below and the Blind Robin in Ukrainian Village. There's no stress, the beer selection is good, and there are board games.

• Lemming's

  phone: +1-773-862-1688
  address: 1850 N Damen Ave
  Comfortable neighborhood bar with local art to be seen and games (board & video) to be played. Look for the "Lemming's" sign by day and the "Schlitz" by night.

• The Map Room

  phone: +1-773-252-7636
  address: 1949 N Hoyne Ave
  Their motto is "Don't be lost," but you may as well give in to their disorienting collection of exotic beers. Their tap selection is one of the more extensive in the city, with surprises for even the most jaded beer drinker: extensive draught and bottle menu, including a cask-conditioned selection, but occasionally unfriendly management.

• Revolution Brewing

  phone: +1-773-227-2739
  address: 2323 N Milwaukee Ave
  If you're a fan of craft beers and the art of brewing, this is a must visit. Owned and operated by a team of experienced local brewers, Revolution has 25 original beers on tap with seasonal additions throughout the year. There's a pretty good brunch menu as well.

• The Rocking Horse

  phone: +1-773-486-0011
  address: 2535 N Milwaukee Ave
  Has a darker, a little bit punk, cozy-ish feel with great drinks and nice beer on tap. Yummy apps and decent price.

• Two Way Lounge

  phone: +1-773-227-5676
  address: 2988 W Fullerton Ave
  An exemplary dive bar in the fine tradition of such; cheap beer, wood-paneled walls, and regulars who are settled in for the night and have been for the last couple of decades. With the changing demographics of the area, it's possible that hipsters might outnumber the men with more tenured mustaches on any given night, but it's still a fine neighborhood dive.

• Whirlaway Lounge

  phone: +1-773-276-6809
  address: 3224 W Fullerton Ave
  Whirlaway is run by the much-adored Maria, with decor that makes you feel as though you're drinking in the basement of Logan Square's collective unconsciousness's dad's house. (In less abstract terms, that's cheap beer, free popcorn, close quarters, and rock on the jukebox.)

Bars with music

Not far away, although a little difficult to find, The Hideout (just east of Wicker Park) is definitely worth seeking out for live music.

• Charleston

  phone: +1-773-489-4757
  address: 2076 N Hoyne Ave
  An old-time Bucktown joint with a big selection of reasonably priced beer and an impressive antique wood bar. There's a Jazz Jam every Tuesday night, and rock/folk/jazz shows most Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.

• Cole's

  phone: +1-773-276-5802
  address: 2338 N Milwaukee Ave
  Laid-back neighborhood bar with a good selection of microbrews and free local music events scattered throughout the week.

• Danny's Tavern

  phone: +1-773-489-6457
  address: 1951 W Dickens Ave
  This is a good place to dance for most of the week, thanks to a talented group of DJs who spin pop, hip-hop, jazz and soul (including the occasional all-Smiths night).

• The Mutiny

  phone: +1-773-486-7774
  address: 2428 N Western Ave
  A cavernous dive that hosts a lot of three/four band punk and rock shows, with occasional comedy nights as well. Check out the ceiling tiles painted by regulars.

• Quenchers Saloon

  phone: +1-773-276-9730
  address: 2401 N Western Ave
  200 different beers from around the world, 60 different whiskeys, and a decent bar menu. Everyone drinks together at this comfortable neighborhood bar. There's live music every night except Sunday, mostly jazz with some rock and DJs on the weekends.

• Rosa's Lounge

  phone: +1-773-342-0452
  address: 3420 W Armitage Ave
  Live blues since 1984, with a laid-back vibe and authentic feel that makes it a must for any visiting blues fan. Save some time for checking out the walls, covered in blues history.

If you're only here for a show and the options in Wicker Park are too steep, you could commute from the hotel cluster by O'Hare Airport on the Blue Line.

The following libraries provide free internet access:

• Bucktown/Wicker Park Library

  phone: +1-312-744-6022
  address: 1701 N Milwaukee Ave
  Brand new library one block north of the North/Milwaukee/Damen intersection.

• Logan Square Library

  phone: +1-312-744-5295
  address: 3030 W Fullerton Ave

Both neighborhoods are reasonably safe, with standard precautions taken for an urban environment. Stay close to the bright lights after dark, and if you’ve had a lot to drink, use the money you saved on cheap beer for a taxi back to your hotel.

• As fashion follows the path of Polish migration, Avondale is often mentioned as the next place to receive the “hot neighborhood” treatment after Logan Square.
• Humboldt Park on the Far West Side has a major Puerto Rican community and a few cultural institutions that share an audience with Logan Square residents.