Chicago/Near North

The Near North includes the neighborhoods of River North, full of art galleries, commercial lofts, and some tourist restaurants, nightclubs and bars; Streeterville and the Gold Coast, with expensive living for rich folks and many of the city's most impressive hotels; and the most prestigious shopping district in Chicago, the Magnificent Mile on Michigan Avenue, which includes one of Chicago's most beloved landmarks, the Water Tower.
This area has been a part of Chicago from the beginning, when Fort Dearborn was built on the other side of the river in 1803 (and burned to the ground nine years later, establishing an unfortunate civic trend). But since the early 1920s, when bridges were built to draw shoppers away from State Street in the Loop, there has been too much to sell, too much awe to inspire, and not a minute to spare. That's why the Near North can be such a delight at a tourist's pace. The locals are in a hurry, but if you're not, the serene image of the old Water Tower or the resolutely quiet riverwalk can take on the feel of a private discovery, even with all of these people around.
That's not to say you can't have fun getting caught up in the hustle and bustle, of course. The sheer amount of shopping on Michigan Avenue cannot be overstated. The world's most elite fashion designers are represented here, and the rest wish they were. River North has many of the city's busiest (if not best) clubs, with a dense row on Rush Street. In the Near North, you'll find a few significant members of the Chicago skyline, including the John Hancock Center and Lake Point Tower, which stands alone to the east at the end of a new, steel-and-glass future-scape in south Streeterville; it makes for an impressive view from Lake Shore Drive, and serves as an entryway to one of the city's most popular tourist spots, Navy Pier, a great place for entertaining children and catching the breeze from Lake Michigan with an evening stroll or a turn on the 150-foot tall Ferris Wheel.

By train

The CTA Red Line has stops near the entertainment in River North (Clark/Division) and the Magnificent Mile (Chicago, Grand).
The CTA Brown Line and Purple Line stop in the midst of the River North galleries (Chicago), and the Merchandise Mart has the next stop all to itself.

By bus

An intricate web of CTA bus lines serves the Near North, most converging upon the northern end of Michigan Avenue. Several express buses from other parts of the city serve Michigan Avenue, notably the 147 Outer Drive Express from the north side and 3 King Drive Express from the south side. Once you're here, though, you will find it better to cover the Magnificent Mile on foot.

• 22 Clark is useful for travelers coming from the Loop and the North Side to River North.
• 65 Grand travels down Grand Avenue, connecting with both the Red Line and the Blue Line further west.
• 66 Chicago travels down Chicago Ave from the lakefront to Michigan Avenue, through River North, and on to West Town.
• 124 Navy Pier serves Navy Pier directly from train hub Union Station and Millennium Park in the Loop.
• 125 Water Tower Express brings you to the Water Tower from the other Loop train hub, Ogilvie/Northwestern Station, and the Merchandise Mart.
• 157 Streeterville runs close to Navy Pier and on to the Loop.

By trolley

Free trolleys run from Navy Pier through the area seven days a week, year round, during the pier's open hours.

By car

Avoid driving to the Near North unless you have a very good reason for doing so. Streets are packed with taxis, confused tourists, desperate businessmen late for something or other, and even the occasional horse. Your knuckles don't need the strain.

Along the Magnificent Mile is a one day and night itinerary that connects the Near North with the Loop for shopping, food, skyscrapers, parks, and amazing views of Chicago from high and low.

• The Arts Club of Chicago

  phone: +1-312-787-3997
  address: 201 E Ontario St
  Easy to miss, as it's on a side street without much in the way of signage (or advertising), but this gallery has a long history — it opened in 1916, and hosted Pablo Picasso's art show in the U.S. Visitors will find three public art shows each year, usually of exceptional quality. Note the Mies van der Rohe central staircase, which was transplanted from the club's previous Mies-designed location.

• Bridgehouse & Chicago River Museum

  phone: +1-312-977-0227
  address: 376 N Michigan Ave
  A small museum spread over the five floors of the southwest tower of the Michigan Avenue Bridge. Visitors can see displays on the history of Chicago's famously abused river, and also check out the machinery used for raising the bridge. Tower tours are Fridays and Saturdays at 11AM and 2:30PM beginning in June. Call to reserve your spot.

• The Driehaus Museum

  phone: +1-312-482-8933
  address: 40 E Erie St
  Adorning the first floor are decorative arts from the collection of the museum's namesake, Richard H. Driehaus, with plenty of Tiffany stained glass. But it's the restored 1883 mansion itself that garners glowing reviews; inside are 17 different types of marble, hand-painted ceilings, carved exotic wood wainscoting and other marks of superior 19th-century craftsmanship. If you're interested in historic architecture and interior design, this is still a hidden gem without crowds.

• 360 Chicago

  address: John Hancock Center, 875 N Michigan Ave
  360-degree view from the 94th floor. Not quite as high as the Sears Tower Skydeck, but with a better view, and from January to March, an ice-skating rink! For drinks, see the Signature Room below.

• Loyola University Museum of Art

  phone: +1-312-915-7600
  address: 820 N Michigan Ave
  Right next to the Water Tower, LUMA is best known for its exhibits on sacred art and architecture, but it occasionally veers into modern art as well, such as an installation of Andy Warhol's silver balloons.

• Marina City

  phone: +1-312-222-1111
  address: 300 N State St
  No tours available, unless you're cheeky enough to fill out a fake rental application (24 hours in advance), but these iconic twin buildings are worth a photo. (You might recognize them from the cover of Wilco's Yankee Hotel Foxtrot, among many others.) Designed to be "a city within a city," they include a wildly overpriced bowling alley and the House of Blues (see Drink below). If you like Marina City, be sure to visit the South Loop for two more of architect Bertrand Goldberg's corncob structures.

• Museum of Contemporary Art

  phone: +1-312-280-2660
  address: 220 E Chicago Ave
  Contemporary art from around the world. The MCA has a great location and plenty of financial backing, but it's still fighting for recognition in the museum world; while not an upper-tier institution as yet, that has resulted in some interesting exhibitions. There isn't much of a permanent collection, so check what's on before you go. Also, Wolfgang Puck operates a lunch-only eatery in the MCA. If you're used to the sprawl of the Art Institute, be aware that this museum is much smaller.

• Newberry Library

  phone: +1-312-943-9090
  address: 60 W Walton St
  The oldest public library in Chicago, although not part of the city library system. The collection focuses on the humanities, American and European history, and the age of exploration. Occasional author events are held.

• Tribune Tower

  phone: +1-312-222-9100
  address: 435 N Michigan Ave
  Built in 1925, the walls of the Tribune Tower contain rocks from many famous world landmarks, including: the Taj Mahal, the Parthenon, the Great Pyramid, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, the Great Wall of China, the Berlin Wall, and most recently from the demolished World Trade Center. The Tribune Tower even managed to get its hands on a moon rock, but so far NASA hasn't allowed it to add the rock to the wall.

• Trump Tower

  address: 401 N Wabash Ave
  1362 ft. The Trump Hotel and luxury residential building is both the newest member of the Chicago skyline, completed at the beginning of 2009, and the tallest after the Sears Tower — indeed, it is the fourth tallest in the United States. The Donald intended for it to be the tallest in the world, but decided to scale back following the 9/11 terrorist attacks. The design features three prominent setbacks at the height of nearby buildings: the Wrigley Building, Marina City, and 330 N Wabash, which, combined with its singularly reflective exterior, allow this supertall to blend into the skyline, almost to the point where you could overlook it. As intended, the building reflects and interacts with the Chicago skyline, rather than imposing itself upon it with its great height. Regardless, you will not likely miss this building, and it's plenty interesting to examine — its asymmetric form ensures that you will see something quite different from any different vantage point.

• Water Tower

  address: Chicago Ave & Michigan Ave
  In 1871, when Mrs. O'Leary's cow kicked over the lantern in her barn — or was framed for the act, depending on who you ask — the Gothic Revival spires of Water Tower were only two years old. Today, along with the Pumping Station on the other side of the street, the Water Tower is the last, dream-like symbol of the Old Chicago that disappeared in the Fire. Surrounded by hotels and colossal department stores, it's also the icon of the new city that arose. At night, the Water Tower is lit from within, and it's a memorable sight. Inside, the vintage machinery is long gone (along with the water), and the plain interior is occasionally used as a gallery space.

• Fourth Presbyterian ChurchA Gothic Revival church built in 1912 provides a contrast to the surrounding bustle.

• 860–880 Lake Shore Drive ApartmentsThese glass and steel towers may look commonplace, but they were some of the first glass and steel towers, a concept copied everywhere. The 26 storey apartment towers were built in 1949- 1951 to a design by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (a nearby street bears his name). The neighbouring 900-910 Lake Shore Drive were also designed by van der Rohe and built in 1955 as one of the first towers to use glass curtain walls. The towers house apartments and the interior is not open.

Galleries

Centered between the Merchandise Mart and the Chicago Brown Line station, with a few galleries that stray closer to Old Town or Michigan Avenue, River North boasts the largest arts and design district in North America outside of Manhattan. Art galleries tend to be concentrated closer to Chicago Avenue, with more design galleries closer to the Merchandise Mart. The entire area is walkable and makes for fun browsing. Although everything on display is for sale, admission is almost always free, and visitors needn't fear gallery owners putting on the hard sell.

• Andrew Bae Gallery

  phone: +1-312-335-8601
  address: 300 W Superior
  Specializes in contemporary Asian art, particularly Korean and Japanese.

• Catherine Edelman Gallery

  phone: +1-312-266-2350
  address: 300 W Superior St
  Contemporary photography and mixed-media.

• Melanee Cooper Gallery

  phone: +1-312-202-9305
  address: 740 N Franklin St
  Fascinating contemporary art, mostly abstract and representational.

• Richard Gray Gallery

  phone: +1-312-642-8877
  address: 875 N Michigan Ave, Suite 2503
  Big and very big names from modern and contemporary American and European art, including Millennium Park sculptor Jaume Plensa.

• Stephen Daiter Gallery

  phone: +1-312-787-3350
  address: 311 W Superior St
  Artistic and documentary photography from America and Europe.

Navy Pier

• Navy Pier

  address: 600 E Grand Ave
  Built in 1916, Navy Pier has had many different uses over the years; in 1994, it became a tourist attraction, with more than 50 acres of restaurants, shops, and activities by Lake Michigan. It's an easy place to entertain children. Unless otherwise noted, all of the attractions are open during Navy Pier operating hours. Several buses reach Navy Pier, including #29 State, #65 Grand, #66 Chicago, and #124 Navy Pier Express from the two Metra stations in the Loop.

• Amazing Chicago's Funhouse Mazeof tunnels and mazes for adults & kids over 7 years old.

• Bike and RollA wide variety of bikes, rollerblades, pedicabs and other wheeled vehicles are available for rent. Tours are also available.

• Boat CruisesNumerous boat cruises depart from the pedestrian-only "Dock Street," operated by several different companies. Some head inland on the Chicago River, and others stick to Lake Michigan. Double-decker tours also ply the boardwalk.

• Chicago Children's Museum

  phone: +1-312-527-1000
  address: 700 E Grand Ave, #127
  Hands-on exhibits for kids, including the popular Dinosaur Expedition.

• Chicago Shakespeare Theater

  phone: +1-312-595-5600
  address: 800 E Grand Ave
  The CST offers high production values and somewhat bland production experiences; not bad, mind you, but not likely to leave you with much more than a pleasant, faintly-remembered evening. Still, if you're in the mood for Shakespeare, you'll find a professionally-mounted production of one of his major works here throughout the year.

• FireworksYou can watch the fireworks display from anywhere on the Pier. Booze and live music of varying quality are available at The Beer Garden (+1-312-595-5439, summer W-Sa to midnight, Su to 10PM).

• IMAX Movie Theater

  phone: +1-312-595-5MAX
  address: 700 East Grand Avenue
  Both Hollywood movies and IMAX films are shown on the six-story movie screen here.

• Pier ParkIncludes the signature Ferris Wheel, a mini-golf course, remote-controlled boats, and more.

A few Chicago restaurants have branches here. There's also a food court, and vendors along the dock during the summer. You're much better off making the short walk to one of the nearby restaurants off the pier, though — you'll save money and likely eat better. There's no cost for re-entry to Navy Pier, after all.
Among the restaurants, The Billy Goat and Charlie's Ale House serve beers that are brewed in-house. Try the dark beer from the Billy Goat or head down to The Beer Garden to sample Chicago brewers Goose Island.
Shopping is in plentiful supply, although it's pretty much limited to tourist-souvenir Chicago kitsch type stuff.

Horse-drawn carriages ply routes along the Magnificent Mile and through Streeterville, usually beginning around the Water Tower. (You might see police officers on horses as well.) While there are too many cars to establish the kind of atmosphere you might expect in, say, Central Park, you'll probably know whether the night calls for a carriage ride, and choose accordingly. Expect to pay about $35 for a half-hour tour. College students also roam the area with small yellow cabs attached to the backs of bicycles for a low-cost, low-point alternative.

• Broadway Playhouse at Water Tower Place

  phone: +1-312-642-2000
  address: 175 E Chestnut St (Water Tower Place)
  Part of the Broadway in Chicago crew, serving up major touring productions.

• Lookingglass Theater

  phone: +1-312-337-0665
  address: 821 N Michigan Ave
  Known for their inventive, acrobatic shows; their repertory production of "Lookingglass Alice" is a knock-out. It's worth peeking inside even if you don't plan to see a show, though, to check out the insides of the old Pumping Station; unlike the Water Tower, its more famous sibling across the street, there's some interesting old machinery to see.

• Oak Street Beach

  address: between 500–1550 Lake Shore Dr
  There is plenty of everybody doing everything at Oak Street Beach. Beyond swimming and sun-tanning, it's one of the city's most popular spots for beach volleyball, and there are concrete paths for cycling and skating. (Do not, however, plan to eat lunch at the overpriced restaurant on the beach.) To get here, cross under Lake Shore Drive through a pedestrian underpass. If the crowds are a bit much, walk a short way south to the smaller, lesser-known beach next to Milton Olive Park (named for a local Medal of Honor recipient).

• Bobby's Bike Hike

  phone: +1 312-245-9300
  address: 540 N Lake Shore Drive
  Bobby's Bike Hike is Chicago's top-rated company for seasonal bike tours and year-round walking and food tours and bike rentals. Discover the true pulse of the city on urban adventures that are fun for all ages, interests, and fitness levels. Tours offered daily from March to November except Thanksgiving Day.

Events & Festivals

• Air & Water ShowEvery August, the Blue Angels and the Thunderbirds headline a five-hour show over Lake Michigan. "Show Central" is at North Avenue Beach, but the action may be viewed anywhere from Northerly Island to Montrose Point, inland through Lincoln Park, and offshore by boat. (If you go by water, take a big boat, as the heavy traffic makes for choppy, seasickness-inducing waves.) A dress rehearsal takes place on Friday, often with multiple run-throughs by the headlining act. You won't see 100% of the weekend show, but it's a great way to avoid the crowds.

Activities

• iFLY Lincoln Park

  address: 800 Scott St
  Indoor skydiving facility with easy access from the downtown area.

Magnificent Mile

One of the most prestigious shopping streets in the world, this stretch of Michigan Avenue is home to massive department stores, wildly expensive boutiques, and larger-than-usual stores for national chains like The Gap, Banana Republic, and Crate & Barrel. Some retailers even have two or more branches here: one standing alone, and another in one of the department stores. This isn't the place to look for discounts, though. Remember, you're not shopping here because it's cheap — you're shopping here because it's the Magnificent Mile.

• 900 N Michigan Ave

  phone: +1-312-915-3916
  70 specialty shops in the most stunning of the Michigan Avenue department stores. Includes MaxMara, among the most expensive stores for women's apparel on a street that's known for expense.

• Ann Taylor

  phone: +1-312-587-8301
  address: 600 N Michigan Ave
  Money rushes out of wallets at this fashionable women's store, anchor of the 600 N Michigan shopping complex. If you like what you see, also check out the Ann Taylor Loft at 520 N Michigan, and another at Water Tower Place (see below).

• Apple Store

  phone: +1-312-981-4104
  address: 401 N Michigan Ave
  For some, a welcome respite from all of the clothes; for others, just more expensive fashion. This Apple-sleek showroom carries the full line of the company's products and accessories, and is usually packed with on-lookers pawing at all of the pretty designs. Several workshops are held each day for the true believers.

• Burberry

  phone: +1-312-266-7440
  address: 633 N Michigan Ave
  Fashion for men, women, and children from the English retail legend, famous for their made-to-order trench coats.

• Cartier Inc.

  phone: +1-312-787-2500
  address: 630 N Michigan Ave
  Boutique for the French jeweler and watchmaker.

• The Disney Store

  phone: +1-312-654-9208
  address: 717 N Michigan Ave
  You know what you're getting into when you walk through these doors. It's the perfect place to reward a Disney fan who's been well-behaved during your family trip, but if you're on a budget, don't risk coming within two blocks.

• Ermenegildo Zegna

  phone: +1-312-587-9660
  address: 645 N Michigan Ave
  All of the elements for an excessively fashionable man, from shoes to shirts to suits.

• Neiman Marcus Showroom

  phone: +1-312-642-5900
  address: 737 N Michigan Ave
  Prada, Chanel, and other designer accessories in this distinctive Michigan Avenue store.

• Nike

  phone: +1-312-642-6363
  address: 669 N Michigan Ave
  Not quite the hot-spot it was after it opened in 1993, when lines wrapped around the block to get in, but Niketown still exists somewhere between a store and a shrine to Nike products. Athletes from visiting sports teams can often be seen here paying homage (and cash).

• Salvatore Ferragamo

  phone: +1-312-397-0464
  address: 645 N Michigan Ave
  Fashionable boutique for women's apparel and accessories. The store is far from cluttered; what they have will sell, and they know it.

• The Shops at North Bridge

  phone: +1-312-327-2300
  address: 520 N Michigan Ave
  Includes Nordstom, a Spa Nordstom, a LEGO store, fifty more speciality shops, and physically connected to the Conrad Chicago hotel.

• Tails in the City

  phone: +1-312-649-0347
  address: 1 E Delaware Pl
  Designer treats and accessories for the fashion-conscious cat and the trend-minded dog.

• Tiffany & Co.

  phone: +1-312-944-7500
  address: 730 N Michigan Ave
  Internationally renowned retailer of jewelry, sterling silverware, china, crystal, and more.

• Water Tower Place

  phone: +1-312-440-3166
  address: 835 N Michigan Ave
  Features an eight-level atrium and over a hundred stores, from fashionable clothes to the Chicago Cubs Clubhouse, and a new Lego store and American Girl Place.

Other shops

• The Merchandise Mart

  phone: +1-312-527-7990
  address: 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza
  The Mart strides the barrier between River North and the Loop, with a train station and a zip code all to itself, not to mention a Holiday Inn, several offices, a school, two radio stations, restaurants, and, of course, shopping. It also includes the Chicago Apparel Center. None of the stores are considered major destinations by themselves, but there are frequent trade shows, and many other reasons for business travelers to find themselves at the Mart.

Budget

This is expensive territory — if you're on a tight budget, you're likely to be stuck with fast food. Most of the department stores on Michigan Ave have food courts.

• The Billy Goat

  phone: +1-312-222-1525
  address: 430 N Michigan Ave, Lower Level
  The original location of the famous cheezborger joint. Due to its location under the Tribune Tower, this one has been a haunt for Chicago newspapermen for decades. The burgers are dry and little more than patty and cheese, but delicious nonetheless.

• Dao Thai

  phone: +1-312-337-0000
  address: 230 E Ohio St
  Thai food in a spacious, beautiful dining room with plenty of flavor and filling portions. The service can get a bit distracted, but the cooks are always focused.

• Downtown Dogs

  phone: +1-312-951-5141
  address: 804 N Rush St
  Chicago-style hot dogs, all the way down to the traditional prohibition on ketchup. And dog lovers (of the furry kind) will likely be tickled pink by the wild, mixed-media canine propaganda.

• Mr. Beef

  phone: +1-312-337-8500
  address: 666 N Orleans St
  Should Mr. Beef ever decide to raise an army, city hall ought to be concerned; his Italian beef sandwiches have a fiercely loyal following among the River North lunch crowd, some of whom won't bother with anywhere else. It's closed for dinner, but open for the late-night weekend club scene.

• Original Rock 'n Roll McDonald's

  phone: +1-312-664-7940
  address: 600 N Clark St
  It's still McDonald's, with all that entails, and reportedly the third-busiest one in the United States; but there's vintage rock and roll memorabilia to excuse the visit to your conscience, if that's possible.

• Portillo's

  phone: +1-312-587-8910
  address: 100 W Ontario Ave
  Polishes, Italian Beef, Burgers, and everything else you would expect at a hot dog place, plus one surprise—the chocolate cake milkshake (it's not on the menu, but order a "cake shake," and sweet tooths will have their day). This location, which includes a drive-thru, is decked out in a "Gangster" theme, which is known to produce delight in tourists and queasiness in locals.

• Wow Bao

  phone: +1-312-642-5888
  address: 835 N Michigan Ave
  A good way to fill up on cheap delicious food on the Magnificent Mile, Wow Bao offers carryout steamed Chinese buns filled with all sorts of wonderful meaty goodness.

Mid-range

• Café Iberico

  phone: +1-312-573-1510
  address: 739 N LaSalle St
  Spanish tapas place, usually crowded. Quite good food.

• Le Colonial

  phone: +1-312-255-0088
  address: 937 N Rush St
  Excellent upmarket Vietnamese cuisine with a French Indochina theme. Reservations would be a good idea.

• Frontera Grill

  phone: +1-312-661-1434
  address: 445 N Clark St
  Renowned chef Rick Bayless presents authentic Mexican cuisine as most have never experienced it (outside of Mexico), with a particular emphasis on seafood. Frontera won the 2007 James Beard Award for Outstanding U.S. Restaurant. Also has Topolobampo, the dressier side of the house where reservations are necessary.

• XOCO

  phone: +1-312-334-3688
  address: 449 N Clark St
  The newest outlet in the Bayless empire focuses on "street food" of Mexico, with highlights including the red chile chicken and the Xoco salad (pork carnitas, mixed greens, and avocado-lime dressing). Good soups are on later in the day. No reservations are taken — just line up and watch the chefs at work, as the kitchen is in full view.

• Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop

  phone: +1-312-337-9330
  address: 830 N Michigan Ave
  Right behind the Water Tower; stop in for the soda fountain, the hot fudge sundae, and other chocolate treats.

• Gino's East

  phone: +1-312-988-4200
  address: 500 N LaSalle St
  Deep-dish and thin-crust pizza.

• Kendall College Dining Room

  phone: +1-312-752-2328
  address: 900 N North Branch St
  Fine dining, fantastic skyline views, very reasonable prices, all prepared by student chefs. Goose Island is out of the way, but there is a free parking lot. Some of Chicago's top chefs learned their trade at Kendall College, so expect to be in for a treat. Open only seasonally, so check the website in advance of your visit.

• Lou Malnati's

  phone: +1-312-828-9800
  address: 439 N Wells St
  One of the deep dish pizza giants; pleasant hole-in-the-wall atmosphere a short walk from the Merchandise Mart.

• Mity Nice Grill

  phone: +1-312-335-4745
  address: 835 N Michigan Ave, Water Tower Place Mall, 2nd floor
  Billed as a "1940s Style Bar and Grill." Even on busy nights, you won't wait long for a table, but reservations are accepted. Fare includes steaks, seafood selections, pasta, and excellent recurring daily specials like meatloaf and a turkey dinner.

• Pizzeria UNO

  phone: +1-312-321-1000
  address: 29 E Ohio St
  By some reckonings, the original deep dish pizza joint. The name has been diminished over the last few years by over-expansion, but this is the original location — they do it better here. Their Italian beef is excellent as well. See also DUE, around the corner at 619 N Wabash.

• Weber Grill

  phone: +1-312-467-9696
  address: 539 N State St
  A suburban chain serving up the best BBQ in downtown Chicago. But keep in mind that the steaks are of low quality and overpriced and that the best of Chicago barbecue is off in the neighborhoods — look for Smoque on the Far Northwest Side or any of the great South Side Memphis-style BBQ joints.

• West Egg Cafe

  phone: +1-312-280-8366
  address: 620 N Fairbanks Ct
  This brunch spot is hugely popular with locals and hotel guests alike — expect long lines early in the day, tapering off toward lunchtime. Though it has several healthy options, West Egg is definitely best known for its remorseless piles of eggs and gravy, pancakes and bacon, and some good sandwiches.

Splurge

• Cité

  phone: +1-312-644-4050
  address: 505 N Lake Shore Dr
  An upscale French/American restaurant most notable for its 360 degree views from the 70th floor of the Lake Point Tower. The food, while very good, does not quite live up to its price, but the view is really what you come here for anyway. Jacket required. For a cheaper view, have a drink in the "happy hour" for $10 between 5:30PM and 7:30PM.

• Coco Pazzo

  phone: +1-312-836-0900
  address: 300 W Hubbard St
  Very tasty Italian cafe. Try the gnocchi, and save some room for the fruit desserts.

• Fogo de Chao

  phone: +1-312-932-9330
  address: 661 N LaSalle St
  Brazilian steakhouse with a twist: diners receive a disc to put in front of their plate, and if it's green, waiters will surround you with skewers of hot meats, unrelenting until you flip the disc over to red.

• Gene & Georgetti

  phone: +1-312-527-3718
  address: 500 N Franklin St
  This venerable Chicago steakhouse (over 60 years old) has played host to venerable Chicago steak eaters like Frank Sinatra and Lucille Ball as well as contemporary big shots. It is a traditional Italian-American steakhouse and serves some of the best steak in a city that takes these things seriously.

• Gibsons Bar and Steakhouse

  phone: +1-312-266-8999
  address: 1028 N Rush St
  Look on the wall at the pictures of countless celebrities who have dined at Gibsons and you'll see why it's a must for those who want to stretch their wallets during a visit to Chicago. You may run into a celebrity yourself.

• Lawry's Prime Rib

  phone: +1-312-787-5000
  address: 100 E Ontario St
  As elegant an interior as any Chicago restaurant can offer. Mind the dress code, and come carnivorous or don't come at all.

• Naha

  phone: +1-312-321-6242
  address: 500 N Clark St
  An exceptional fusion restaurant headed by a star Armenian-American chef and specializing in Californian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes.

• Rosebud's Steakhouse

  phone: +1-312-397-1000
  address: 192 E Walton Pl
  A strong contender in the Best Burger in Chicago stakes, and not bad for steaks either. There's also Rosebud's on Rush, an older branch with more celebrity photos on the wall, but the Walton location is more of a favorite with the neighborhood.

• Spiaggia

  phone: +1-312-280-2750
  address: 980 N Michigan Ave
  World-class contemporary regional Italian fare with classic touches in a remarkable dining room overlooking the Magnificent Mile. Jackets required for men, though ties are optional.

Rush Street is probably the single best-known street for drinking and clubbing in Chicago. It's lined with late-night bars, both fashion-of-the-moment designer clubs and generic fake-Irish pubs. Rush Street branches off from State south of Elm and runs parallel to State from there, although the action is north of Chicago Avenue. There's also a similar densely-populated strip of late-night clubs on Division, between Clark and State. Be warned: the Rush Street bars are often referred to by locals as the "Viagra Triangle" for reasons that will become clear shortly after you arrive.

• Andy's Jazz Club

  phone: +1-312-642-6805
  address: 11 E Hubbard St
  A nice and slightly less pretentious jazz club featuring straight-ahead performances nightly.

• Blue Chicago

  phone: +1-312-642-6261
  address: 736 N Clark St
  Live blues most nights of the week, except for Sundays. Has a sister club by the same name just a couple blocks away at 536 N Clark (312 661-0100, no music on Mondays).

• The Hangge-Uppe

  phone: +1-312-337-0561
  address: 14 W Elm St
  The best bar in the Rush/Division nexus. Drinks aren't over-priced, the decor is cool, and there are two floors for dancing, depending on whether you prefer retro or modern beats.

• House of Blues

  phone: +1-312-923-2000
  address: 329 N Dearborn St
  Food, drinks, and music. Blues fans may find something good, but the roster of bands can stray from the classic old bluesman with a guitar to the worst of twentieth-century music (no genre excepted), so don't show up without checking the schedule first.

• The Original Mother's

  phone: +1-312-642-7251
  address: 26 W Division St
  Hugely popular bar that trades on old rock-and-roll cred — Cream, The Velvet Underground played here long ago — to adorn a modern dance floor and pool tables.

• Pippin's Tavern

  phone: +1-312-787-5435
  address: 806 N Rush St
  Fake Irish pub, notable mainly for being tucked away behind the Water Tower, right off the Magnificent Mile. The after-work crowd is generally laid back, and the lack of (excessively) loud music and sports TV makes this a decent choice for exhausted shoppers in need of a beer.

• The Redhead Piano Bar

  phone: +1-312-640-1000
  address: 16 W Ontario St
  Cocktails, live music, and a schmaltzy sort of elegance.

• Second Story Bar

  phone: +1-312-923-9536
  address: 157 E Ohio St, Apt 2
  It's no small feat to find this place — look for the pink-lettered sign up on, well, the second story. Inside, you'll find a gay bar that falls on the fun side of sleazy (or the sleazy side of fun), far more of a dive than you would expect in these surroundings and the perfect antidote to hotel bars.

• Signature Room

  phone: +1-312-787-9596
  address: John Hancock Center, 875 N Michigan Ave
  Just above the Hancock Observatory (above). Expensive drinks on the 95th floor, with live jazz on the weekends. Skip the over-priced food, but the view makes this a great place for evening cocktails, and a more civilized alternative to the sometimes over-crowded observatory one floor below.

Again, this is expensive territory — nearly every tourist stays here, and the rates reflect that. If price is a concern, remember that this area is well-served by public transportation from every direction, including places where you can sleep a bit cheaper. On the other hand, if part of the vision for your vacation involves a luxurious hotel, this is definitely the place to be.

Budget

• Warwick Allerton - Chicago

  phone: +1-312-440-1500
  address: 701 N Michigan Ave
  Classic Chicago building with modern interiors; generations have known it for the neon TIP TOP TAP at the top of the building, referring to the swanky club that operated up there in the 1950s.

• Best Western River North

  address: 125 W Ohio St
  A little bit out of the way, but close to I-90/94 for easy travels by car; amenities include free parking and an indoor pool.

• Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott

  phone: +1-312-787-3777
  address: 216 E Ontario St
  185 rooms and suites.

• Freehand Hotel and Hostel

  phone: +1-312-940-3699
  address: 19 E Ohio St
  A modern hotel and hostel in a building that used to be home to the seedy Tokyo Hotel.

• The Whitehall Hotel

  phone: +1-312-944-6300
  address: 105 E Delaware Pl
  An independent, high-rise hotel in a quiet pocket down the street from the Hancock and Water Tower Place.

Mid-range

• Avenue Hotel Chicago

  address: 160 E Huron St
  Formerly the Radisson.

• Conrad Chicago

  phone: +1-312-667-6700
  address: 101 E Erie St

• The Drake

  phone: +1-312-787-2200
  address: 140 E Walton Pl
  It was swallowed into the Hilton chain some years ago, but the Drake is still the definition of old Chicago elegance. Founded in 1920, it's on the National Register of Historic Places, and probably has a longer list of celebrity guests than any hotel in the city, save possibly the Palmer House in the Loop.

• Embassy Suites Chicago-Downtown Magnificent Mile

  phone: +1-312-943-3800
  address: 600 N State St
  Not right on Michigan Avenue, despite the name, but an easy walk.

• Hilton Garden Inn Chicago Downtown Magnificent Mile

  address: 10 E Grand Ave
  Just off the Magnificent Mile, and adjacent to the River North dining & entertainment area.

• James Hotel Chicago

  address: 55 E Ontario St
  A boutique hotel with a gym, restaurant, and modern touches such as large LCD TVs, iPod docks, and martini glasses in the mini-bar.

• Omni Chicago Hotel

  phone: +1-312-944-6664
  address: 676 N Michigan Ave
  Among the amenities are an indoor swimming pool and two rooftop sundecks.

• Sheraton Chicago Hotel and Towers

  address: 301 E North Water St
  Does enormous business for business meetings and conventions. Most rooms offer views over the Chicago River. The hotel has a steak house (Shula's) and a burger joint, as well as an indoor swimming pool.

• The Talbott Hotel

  phone: +1-312-944-4970
  address: 20 E Delaware Pl
  16-story boutique hotel down the block from the Hancock. Though built in 1927, they tout their eco-friendly updates. Crain's ranked it the city's best hotel for business travelers.

• W Chicago Lakeshore

  phone: +1-312-943-9200
  address: 644 N Lake Shore Dr

Splurge

• The Four Seasons

  phone: +1-312-280-8800
  address: 120 E Delaware Pl
  Right across from the Hancock.

• InterContinental Chicago

  phone: +1-312-944-4100
  address: 505 N Michigan Ave
  It was built as an athletic club, and is flush with gorgeous 1920s design flourishes. The grand swimming pool on the 14th floor is simply astonishing — worth a look whether you've brought your trunks or not. (If you're not staying here, $15 can usually get you access to the sauna and pool.)

• Millennium Knickerbocker Hotel

  phone: +1-312-751-8100
  address: 163 E Walton Pl
  Across from the Drake and right around the corner from Michigan Avenue, with Nix, a quiet, knockout-delicious cafe/restaurant on the first floor (at knockout-expensive prices).

• The Park Hyatt

  phone: +1-312-335-1234
  address: 800 N Michigan Ave
  A bona-fide member of the Chicago skyline, towering over the Water Tower and the Magnificent Mile. Guest rooms are sleek, stylish, and comfortable, and the hotel's NoMi restaurant is quite good.

• The Peninsula

  address: 108 E Superior St
  Recognized by AAA with a Five-Diamond award. That combined with its high prices and the Mag Mile address mean top-notch service, bells & whistles, and impressive views. Those not sleeping here may want to stop by on a Friday or Saturday night for the all-you-can-eat high-end chocolate buffet (8PM-11:30PM, $26).

• The Ritz Carlton

  phone: +1-312-266-1000
  address: 160 E Pearson St
  Atop the Water Tower Place shopping center.

• Near North Library

  phone: +1-312-744-0991
  address: 310 W Division St
  Public internet access. It's between the Sedgwick and Chicago Brown Line stations, but a long walk from either. The area is safe during the day, but don't walk far by night.
• The Apple Store (see Buy) is a de facto free internet cafe, with all of the floor models hooked up to wi-fi, and the salesmen-to-customer ratio virtually ensures nobody will bother you if you want to dash off a few emails home.

• Old Town is just north, and segues neatly into the Near North with smaller boutiques, smaller palatial mansions, and the city's landmark theaters Steppenwolf and Second City.
• Wicker Park offers a parallel Magnificent Mile of hip, independent stores, bars and clubs. Lincoln Square is another exceptional shopping destination.