Chicago/Near West Side

Many of Chicago's most beloved cultural landmarks were created on the Near West Side. The Chicago-style hot dog, the deep dish pizza, the immigrant port of entry, the blues, the Blues Brothers, the labor movement, "Cheat You Fair," Jane Addams and the modern concept of social justice — all were born or have roots here. You wouldn't know it from the place today, though, which is dominated the charmless campus of the University of Illinois at Chicago (UIC); outside of those areas, seen from the L tracks, stray pieces of the old neighborhoods sit like the last few teeth in the mouth of a punch-drunk prizefighter.

Close to the rail yards and factory jobs, this was Chicago's major port of entry throughout the 1800s and early 1900s. Central to everything was the Maxwell Street Market, which was founded by Jewish immigrants and joined by African-Americans during the Great Migration. Maxwell Street evolved from an open-air market of stalls and pushcarts to become the place where people from everywhere brought discount everything in the quest to make a fortune — and, as the saying went, Cheat You Fair. The deals, the scams, the cheap food and the street performances by future blues legends created a signature Chicago atmosphere for more than 120 years.
However, the desire of Chicago's business community to have a buffer zone between the Loop and the West Side housing projects led to severe changes: first, the new Eisenhower Expressway cut off a slice of the east side, and then the construction of UIC destroyed the homes of more than 5,000 people. The years since have seen the university continue its path of wanton destruction, enabled by the city in every urge. In 1994, they finally managed to raze the market, which was relocated a few blocks east in reduced form, leaving behind something called "University Village", which is rather like Hyde Park re-cast by pod people.
Attractions continue to leave the Near West Side; the Chicago Bulls play on without Michael Jordan at the United Center, and Oprah Winfrey has left her residency at Harpo Studios. But the small restaurant strips of Little Italy on Taylor Street and Greektown on Halsted Street have good food and tourist-friendly charm, and the West Loop (sometimes known as the Warehouse District) features the city's most expensive restaurants, a thriving gallery scene, and several hot clubs-of-the-moment.

By train

There are several train stations on the Near West Side, but they're not very well-placed for destinations other than UIC. Buses are a more direct alternative from most of the city, including the Loop.
The Forest Park branch of the CTA Blue Line has stops near Maxwell Street, Little Italy and Greektown (UIC-Halsted, Racine), UIC (Illinois Medical District) and the Tri-Taylor area (Western). The CTA Green Line and Pink Line have stops within a hike of the West Loop (Clinton/Lake, Morgan) and the United Center (Ashland/Lake), while the Pink Line branches off to the center of UIC and near the edge of Little Italy (Polk).
The city's two regional train hubs, Union Station and Ogilvie/Northwestern Station, are right on the edge of the West Loop. They're generally used by travelers going east over the river to the Loop, but there's no reason you can't walk west instead. See the Loop article for arrival and departure information.

By bus

The CTA runs several bus routes through the West Side:

• 8 Halsted can be caught as far north as Lakeview. It runs through Greektown and hits the old Maxwell Street.
• 9 Ashland also runs from far north and on to the south, passing within walking distance of Little Italy and the United Center. It's an all-night route.
• 12 Roosevelt runs from the Near South to walking distance of Little Italy (exit Halsted, walk south) and Greektown (exit Halsted, walk north).
• 19 United Center Express runs on game nights for the Bulls and Blackhawks from Michigan & Chicago in the Near North to Madison in the Loop, and express to the UC once it's west of the river. Service starts 90 minutes prior to game time and ends 15 minutes prior to game time, and buses will be waiting to travel the route in reverse after the game.
• 20 Madison runs all night from the Loop, passing through Greektown and by the United Center.
• 38 Ogden/Taylor reaches UIC, Maxwell Street, and Little Italy. It will soon become the 157 Streeterville/Taylor, extending into the Near North.
• 50 Damen runs from Ukrainian Village and passes by the United Center.

By car

For Greektown, exit I-90/94 east at Adams, or west at Monroe. From the Eisenhower Expressway, exit at Racine, and turn left. Halsted & Adams is three blocks north and six blocks east. If driving in the area in the evening, avoid the blocks around United Center at all costs, as the event traffic is horrendous.

The ubiquitous University of Illinois at Chicago campus will be the most obvious thing you see, with the overtowering monolith that is University Hall casting an ungainly shadow across the West Side. Many of the original constructions, including elevated walkways, have long since been demolished. However, much of the Brutalist architecture remains. The Behavioral Sciences Building and Arts and Architecture Building, best known for having stairways that lead to a wall, are shining examples of unfinished construction and design. If you wish to tour, the only official ones are meant for potential students, and you would be better off walking it alone anyway. As it is a public university, no one will bother you if you take photos or walk through buildings. Please note that UIC is a massive campus, with over 15,000 students who congregate on campus at any given time. Being on the Halsted, Harrison, Blue Island, Streeterville/Taylor or Roosevelt buses during the university calendar year is bound to be a crowded trip if you use UIC as a starting point for your travels. Additionally, the UIC-Halsted Blue Line stop will be crowded for the same reasons.

• Jane Addams Hull House Museum

  phone: +1-312-413-5353
  address: 800 S Halsted St
  UIC was built on top of the original Hull House, where the prolific writer and reformer Jane Addams lived and worked to help people in need. This museum is dedicated to her memory in two surviving buildings from the complex, now absorbed into the UIC campus, and features exhibits on local history and social justice throughout the world. Occasionally hosts speakers during the day, and offer a free soup lunch during the discussion.

• National Hellenic Museum

  phone: +1-312-655-1234
  address: 333 S Halsted St
  Now housed in a beautiful glass building, the National Hellenic Museum sits neatly at the start of Greektown's best restaurants. Partnered with the Field Museum, they host many actual Greek relics and also support Greek and Greek-American artists.

• National Italian American Sports Hall of Fame

  phone: +1-312-226-5566
  address: 1431 W Taylor St
  Exactly what the name says; this is a glittering, big-budget facility, moved here from the suburbs a few years ago. The collection pays tribute to more than 200 inductees from many professional sports, with Joe DiMaggio held in highest esteem. Space for event rentals (like fundraisers for Italian-American politicians) outstrips the space for exhibits, though.

• Saint Ignatius College Prep

  phone: +1-312-421-5900
  address: 1076 W Roosevelt Rd
  Opened in 1869, two years prior to the Chicago Fire, this impressive building is still a working high school. No tours are offered of the interior, but pieces of famous Chicago buildings from the past have been installed around the campus, including murals from the old Chicago Stadium and intriguing ornament from lost Adler & Sullivan and Burnham & Root masterworks. (Next door, Holy Family Church dates from 1857.)

Galleries

The West Loop has a thriving contemporary art gallery scene that's easy to explore on foot. Start at the corner of Peoria and Washington. The two most prominent galleries are the Donald Young and Kavi Gupta galleries, but the adventurous will be rewarded here — there is a wealth of smaller gallery spaces to be explored even beyond this list.

• Andrew Rafacz Gallery

  phone: +1-312-404-9188
  address: 835 W Washington Blvd
  Contemporary art (mostly painting and photography) by international artists (like Joe Sola).

• EC Gallery

  phone: +1-312-850-0924
  address: 215 N Aberdeen St
  Contemporary art. The primary focus at EC Gallery is the introduction and representation of emerging and mid-career artists whose practices traverse painting, drawing, mixed media and photo media.

• Kavi Gupta Gallery

  phone: +1-312-432-0708
  address: 835 W Washington Blvd, 2nd floor
  Kavi Gupta's gallery is generally understood to have been the pioneer of the West Loop gallery phenomenon. Today his collection is still one of the area's most important and features new works from emerging international artists. If you're here, you might as well check out the Bucket Rider Gallery on the same floor or any of the other, smaller galleries in the building.

• Primitive Art Works Gallery

  phone: +1-312-575-9600
  address: 130 N Jefferson St
  A large store/gallery packed with so-called "Primitive Art" from around the world. The selection is wide, including (among others): East African jewelry, Native American costumes, old-style Chinese beds, Eastern European stained glass, etc.

• Supreme Frame & Art Gallery

  phone: +1-312-930-9056
  address: 650 W Randolph St
  Several large-sized portraits of contemporary figures. It also sells some antique art and limited editions. Supreme has a large collection of art posters, serigraphs and prints, many with a distinctly Chicago flavor

The UIC campus itself also has Gallery 400 at 400 S Peoria St (just north of the UIC-Halsted Blue Line stop), which has monthly shows available to the public.

• Aloft Loft

  phone: +1-773-782-6662
  address: 2041 W Carroll Ave #306
  A theater group comprised of... trapeze artists?! The space is run by an "aerial dance" troupe which puts on shows and runs high-flying circus training programs. If you're in town for the week and looking for something really out of the ordinary to do, consider signing up for their Two-Day Beginning Trapeze course ($65). It's in an alley and has no signs, so you'll have to really look for it.

• Johnny's Ice House

  phone: +1-312-226-5555
  address: 1350 W Madison St
  If one of the local hockey teams inspires you to strap on skates, Johnny's Ice House offers ice skating year-round for people of all experience levels, and the Chicago Blackhawks occasionally stop by.

• UIC Pavilion

  phone: +1-312-413-5740
  address: 525 S Racine
  UIC's campus stadium is remarkably adaptable, hosting college sports like basketball and the school's stand-out ice hockey team (the Flames), Chicago's WNBA team (the Sky), and as concerts for mid-sized to major touring bands.

• United Center

  phone: +1-312-455-4500
  address: 1901 W Madison St
  Home of the NBA Chicago Bulls and the NHL Chicago Blackhawks. The United Center doesn't have much in the way of character as a stadium, but the sightlines are great from anywhere in the house, and both teams are on an upswing. Fans of Michael Jordan (who played here from 1996-98) should look for his jersey in the rafters and his statue outside. (Check the statue details — he's wearing stone Air Jordans!) Most games sell out, but it's usually possible to find tickets at or near face value. On off-nights, this is Chicago's second-largest concert venue for big touring bands, the circus (in November), and other random events.

• New Maxwell Street Market

  phone: +1 312-922-3100
  The much smaller size and higher vendor fees ensure that the original flavor of the world's greatest outdoor market is now only a piece of history, but the New Market has a truly awe-inspiring number of cheap Mexican food along with discount jewelry, t-shirts, random vintage items, suspicious electronics, and other flea market classics, and is a lot of fun.

More traditional retail has been slow to develop for the rest of the Near West Side, with college students being the only relatively affluent consumer group in the area. Even after the spate of expensive residential developments in the West Loop and University Village, it's still under-served for shopping purposes. However, there are a few places worthy of note:

• Athenian Candle Co

  phone: +1-312-332-6988
  address: 300 S Halsted St
  It's worth a visit just to gawk at their wall of candles, but the fun in browsing begins with their extensive and eclectic collection of religious/spiritual items, from the Christian to the arcane. Ponder to which category the "Pope holograms" belong.

• Bennett Wine Studio

  phone: +1-312-666-4417
  address: 802 W Washington Blvd
  Bennett has a strong and established reputation in Chicago for stocking her store with only the most tasteful wines, most of them from small estates and with very reasonable price tags.

• Erin Gallagher

  phone: +1-312-492-7548
  address: 1017 W Lake St
  Boutique and custom jewelry by one of Chicago's most reputable designers, although you have a chance to compete a bit by designing your own pieces.

• Lissa on Maxwell

  phone: +1-312-563-9470
  address: 729 W Maxwell St
  $250 for a dress on Maxwell Street? If you can get over that historical incongruity, you'll discover that this is a pretty cool operation, with talented designers not yet featured in places like Michigan Avenue, and biographies provided for each so you can investigate further.

If you need a sunscreen or a new pair of cheap jeans, there is a Target just north of the UIC-Halsted Blue Line stop at 1101 W Jackson Blvd.

Cuisine is a major attraction for the West Side, with two of the city's most celebrated strips: Little Italy (Racine Blue Line) and Greektown (UIC-Halsted Blue Line). Restaurants are almost all that remain of the communities that were there before the bulldozers and redevelopment of the 1960s. Culinary preferences will presumably guide your decision, but all things being equal, Greektown is the better choice, because UIC has more of a presence in the Little Italy area.

Budget

Greek

Also see Drink — the bars in Greektown can be good dinner options, too, unless you're looking for family dining.

• Artopolis Bakery & Cafe

  phone: +1-312-559-9000
  address: 306 S Halsted St
  Greek artisan breads provide the foundation for bakery treats, sandwiches, and wood-fired pizzas. There's a full bar and wine list as well.

• Greektown Gyros

  phone: +1-312-236-9310
  address: 239 S Halsted St
  There's the dinner scene in Greektown, and then there's the long-after-dinner scene. Few places in Chicago will treat you better after you leave a bar at 2AM.

• Meli Cafe & Juice Bar

  phone: +1-312-454-0748
  address: 301 S Halsted St
  A bright and relaxed brunch option, with cage-free eggs and Mediterranean-influenced soups and sandwiches.

• Mr. Greek Gyros

  phone: +1-312-906-8731
  address: 234 S Halsted St
  Another solid option for greasy late-night gyros.

• Zeus Inc.

  phone: +1-312-258-8789
  address: 806 W Jackson Blvd
  A popular lunch joint.

Other

The aforementioned University Village has a plenty of sandwich shops and pleasant, undistinguished Thai, sushi, froyo and other fast food restaurants catering to UIC students. These are mainly housed on Taylor Street, and are in walking distance from the Taylor side of the campus.

• Al's #1 Italian Beef

  phone: +1-312-226-4017
  address: 1079 W Taylor St
  With it's highly distinctive finely chopped giardinera with tons of red pepper for the heat, Al's has won accolades from various sources claiming it serves one of the top ten sandwiches in America, or more plausibly from the Chicago Magazine, the best Italian Beef in the city. It has since grown into a chain, but this is the original, and the destination of choice for aficionados.

• Gus’s World Famous Hot & Spicy Fried Chicken

  phone: +1-312-733-1971
  address: 847 W Fulton Market
  Fried chicken.

• Harold's Chicken Shack #39

  phone: +1-312-662-9000
  address: 518 W Harrison St
  Harold's is here to give UIC students a graduate seminar in the art of cheap, delicious chicken.

• Jim's Original Hot Dog

  phone: +1-312-733-7820
  address: 1250 S Union St
  Established in 1939, this long-time purveyor of the Maxwell Street Polish was able to move a few blocks away when the last hold-outs were evicted in 2001. Whether it's as good as it used to be is purely academic; it's an original, and it's good.

• Mario's Italian Lemonade

  address: 1068 W Taylor St
  If you're dining in Little Italy in the summer, skip dessert at your restaurant and come here instead. Mario's has been selling delicious Italian ice all over Chicago for more than 50 years. There are several flavors, but lemon is the staple.

• The Patio

  phone: +1-312-829-0454
  address: 1503 W Taylor St
  Another one of the few places serving the fast food classics like Chicago-style hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches here, in the area where they were born.

• White Palace Grill

  phone: +1-312-939-7167
  address: 1159 S Canal St
  A good and reliable all-night diner near Little Italy and the university. Since 1939, and fortunate enough to have avoided displacement.

Mid-range

Greek

Most of the restaurants in Greektown offer free valet parking. You should be able to enjoy a meal for less than $25 at any of these restaurants, although if you'd like to splurge, most of the menus have seafood or lamb options to make that possible.

• Athena Restaurant

  phone: +1-312-655-0000
  address: 212 S Halsted St
  Lots of hot and cold appetizers to accompany the entrees, which are a little cheaper and a little less plentiful than the other Greektown restaurants. Nice indoor and outdoor seating.

• Greek Islands

  phone: +1-312-782-9855
  address: 200 S Halsted St
  One of the best and probably the biggest Greek restaurant in the city, with about 400 seats. Good standard Greek food: seafood, lamb, and chicken.

• Pegasus Restaurant

  phone: +1-312-226-3377
  address: 130 S Halsted St
  Sister restaurant to the Artopolis Bakery (above). They're also at the Midway food court.

• Santorini

  phone: +1-312-829-8820
  address: 800 W Adams St
  Santorini specializes in seafood. Excellent for the real Chicago Greek experience. Reservations usually not necessary.

Italian

Valet parking is usually available at sit-down Little Italy restaurants for a nominal fee ($2-6).

• Conte Di Savoia European Specialties

  phone: +1-312-666-3471
  address: 1438 W Taylor St
  Cheap, good Italian deli sandwiches amidst an enormous range of imported wine and groceries.

• Francesca's on Taylor

  phone: +1-312-829-2828
  address: 1400 W Taylor St
  Excellent Italian restaurant, and probably the busiest in Little Italy — reservations are a good idea on weekends. Moderately priced and normally provides excellent service for large parties.

• RoSal's Italian Cucina

  phone: +1-312-243-2357
  address: 1154 W Taylor St
  For the "Family" atmosphere in Italian food.

• Tufano's

  phone: +1-312-733-3393
  address: 1073 Vernon Park Pl
  Tricky to find on a residential block behind Taylor Street, but Tufano's is a nice, relaxed Italian place to eat before a night at the United Center.

• Tuscany

  phone: +1-312-829-1990
  address: 1014 W Taylor St
  A mainstay of the Little Italy scene.

Other

• Dine

  phone: +1-312-602-2100
  address: 733 W Madison St
  West Loop restaurant designed to be a really nice 1940s diner. It's next to the Crowne Plaza Hotel (see Sleep).

• The Publican

  phone: +1-312-733-9555
  address: 837 W Fulton Market
  Come hungry and carnivorous, as the Publican delivers mighty plates stacked high with ham, lamb, pork bellies, and other meats. There's also quite a lot of gourmet seafood from around the world. The Sunday brunch will destroy you.

• Wishbone

  phone: +1-312-850-2663
  address: 1001 W Washington Blvd
  "Southern Reconstruction Cooking" includes some nice vegetarian options along with seafood, chicken, burgers, and a large variety of great Southern sides.

Splurge

The city's most trendy and expensive restaurants are to be found in the West Loop / Fulton Market District.

• Carnivale

  phone: +1-312-850-5005
  address: 702 W Fulton Market
  This chic Nuevo-Latino club has a great wait-staff and nice, colorful yet understated decor. Needless to say, they're always ready with a margarita, but only the (delicious) appetizers are available in the afternoon hours.

• Girl and the Goat

  phone: +1-312-492-6262
  address: 809 W Randolph St
  "Top Chef" winner Stephanie Izard offers ten options each from the meat, seafood, and vegetable categories; sharing plates is advised, and pairing with beer is highly encouraged (30 carefully selected brews on tap). Though the menu changes with the chef's creative whims, variations on the "pig face" theme seem to be a mainstay.

Oh Maxwell Street, what have you become? A few generic, upscale sports bars catering to university students and owners of new townhomes oozed in once the blues were gone.

• 9 Muses

  phone: +1-312-902-9922
  address: 315 S Halsted St
  More of a modern style than the other Greektown bars and restaurants, but with plentiful portions of food, good outdoor seating, and an enthusiastic late-night dance scene.

• Jaks Tap

  phone: +1-312-666-1700
  address: 901 W Jackson Blvd
  A good stop after a game at the United Center. Jaks takes pride in their baby-back BBQ ribs and has more than 40 beers on tap.

• Spectrum Bar & Grill

  phone: +1-312-715-0770
  address: 233 S Halsted St
  The Greektown location means that ouzo and saganaki have a place among the usual bar & grill fare.

There are many more hotels in the Loop, close to the Blue Line, and a few places in the Near South will also be fine if you'd like quick access to the West Side.

• Chicago Marriott at Medical District/UIC

  phone: +1-312-491-1234
  address: 625 S Ashland Ave
  As the name implies, this hotel is close to UIC and Rush University Medical Center, and also to Little Italy. A free shuttle service to the Loop and the usual business amenities are available.

• Crowne Plaza Metro

  phone: +1-312-829-5000
  address: 733 W Madison St
  Just west of the Loop.

• Holiday Inn Hotel and Suites Downtown Chicago

  phone: +1-312-957-9100
  address: 506 W Harrison St
  Very close to the Near South and the Loop as well.

• Chicago Parthenon Hostel

  phone: +1-312-258-1399
  address: 310 S Halsted St
  Good hostel in Greektown within walking distance of Union Station (about 7 to 10 minute walk) with free breakfast, wi-fi and onsite restaurant and bar.

The following libraries offer free public internet access:

• Mabel Manning Library

  phone: +1-312-746-6800
  address: 6 S Hoyne Ave
  Two blocks east of the United Center.

• Theodore Roosevelt Library

  phone: +1-312-746-5656
  address: 1101 W Taylor St
  Close to UIC.

UIC does not offer public internet access, as their WiFi networks are meant for students only. The Richard J. Daley library (801 S. Morgan) is open to the public, but after 5PM they check IDs and only let students in.

Know where you're going, especially at night. Aside from the few major thoroughfares, the Near West Side has long, deserted stretches where help will be difficult to find. On the UIC campus, keep an eye out for kiosks with help phones. Also, while eating in Little Italy, don't fill up on bread; you will be unable to properly enjoy your main dish. (The same risk applies to making pre-emptive grabs for saganaki in Greektown.)

• If you were here for the Blues legacy of Maxwell Street, carry on to Willie Dixon's Blues Heaven in the Near South and the Black Metropolis of Bronzeville, then consider moving on further south to today's home of the Chicago Blues in Chatham-South Shore.
• If you prefer a Northern Italian take on pasta or you still aren't full, head to the smaller but more atmospheric "Heart of Italy" near Pilsen.