Chicago/Pilsen

Sourced from Wikivoyage. Text is available under the CC-by-SA 3.0 license.

Only a few minutes from the center of Chicago by train, Pilsen is a working-class predominately Hispanic neighborhood. Marked by riches in art and historic architecture and occupied by a community that's fiercely proud of where they live, this neighborhood is at once distinctly Chicagoan and something entirely unique.

Understand

Pilsen was originally settled by Irish and German immigrants, who came to work at the factories and stockyards nearby. Those industries attracted Czech and Polish immigrants next, and in the late 1800s, the neighborhood was named in honor of the city back in the former's home in Bohemia. The streets of Pilsen still bear their mark — weathered stone castles like St. Adalbert's and Thalia Hall loom over buildings with colorful turrets and dashes of ornamentation completely absent of the Prairie School influence found elsewhere in Chicago. As Pilsen escaped relatively unscathed from the Great Chicago Fire in 1871, many of the buildings here are among the oldest in the city.
In the 1960s, the construction of the University of Illinois at Chicago displaced a community of Mexicans from the Near West Side, and many resettled in Pilsen. Meanwhile, many of the original Eastern European residents relocated to the suburbs due to government policies encouraging suburbanisation of the white population, while at the same time confining non-whites to the inner cities. Though they inherited an area in economic decline, Pilsen's new residents built a set of cultural institutions that far outpace many wealthier neighborhoods, crowned by the excellent National Museum of Mexican Art. And with the city's once-thriving West Side Italian community mostly wiped out by that same construction, a single block of the industrial Heart of Chicago neighborhood drew new focus as a place where Italian Chicago survived, remaining today as an alternative to the more heavily touristed Little Italy near the university.
Fears of gentrification began several years ago when the Podmajersky company began converting the old warehouses of East Pilsen into cheap studios for artists. Depending on who you ask, this was either intended to:
a) Revitalize the nearly vacant eastern half of an economically depressed neighborhood by creating spaces where exciting young artists could live, work, and exhibit, a "SoHo in Chicago";
b) Jump-start the process of gentrification that happened in Wicker Park several years earlier, driving up property values by exchanging low-income residents for wealthier ones looking to trade on that artistic "cool."
The artists arrived and opened galleries, but many left for lack of foot traffic. Most of those who remain have private studios, open to the public only for special events, giving East Pilsen the feeling of a ghost town on non-event days. There is an increasing split between the two halves of the neighborhood, and businesses seem torn between appealing to the working-class Mexican community already here and the affluent community that is still arriving. Whatever direction Pilsen may be headed, what's there now is an area with a long history of re-inventing itself, rough in places and full of inspiration, and guaranteed to provide visitors with an interesting day.

Peter Fitzgerald

Get in

By train

Pilsen is very easy to reach by train from the Loop. The key is to know which part you'd like to visit first: the arts district in East Pilsen, which is centered at 18th and Halsted, and the arts/commercial center in West Pilsen, which surrounds 18th and Ashland. It's a long but manageable walk between the two areas, with a quiet zone in-between.
For East Pilsen, take the CTA Orange Line to Halsted, which is on the border of Bridgeport, and walk a few blocks north on Halsted (the street), crossing over the river almost immediately.
For West Pilsen, take the CTA Pink Line to 18th. (Even if you're just passing through, the astonishing murals at the 18th station are worth a look.) The Pink Line also stops in the Heart of Chicago neighborhood (Damen, Western) and then on to the Far West Side.
The last trains for both lines are around 1:15AM heading back toward the Loop (Downtown).

By bus

The streets of Pilsen don't get the same tender, loving care from snowplows as some other parts of the city, so the wind and the drifts can make walking between East and West Pilsen considerably more difficult.

8 Halsted runs the length of the arts district, coming from Bridgeport to the south and the Near West Side to the north. It connects with the Orange Line at the Halsted station.
9 Ashland will drop you at 18th and Ashland, near the taquerías and the Pink Line. It runs all night.
18 16th 18th runs, appropriately enough, down 18th street, connecting with the Pink Line at the 18th station.
49 Western runs down Western Avenue for nearly the full length of the city, passing near Pilsen and Heart of Chicago. It's an all-night route.
60 Blue Island/26th runs from the Chicago/Loop through the Near West Side, Pilsen, Little Village and South Lawndale all night long.
N62 Archer branches off to cover the same ground as the 8 Halsted while passing through the arts district. The plain 62 Archer only stops within walking distance back at the Halsted Orange Line stop.

By car

If you're traveling within the city, the wide expanses of Western Avenue are the fastest way to reach Pilsen. Otherwise, use the I-55 exit at Damen Avenue for Pilsen, and the Canalport left exit off of I-90/94 to get to the arts district on Halsted.

See

Both halves of the neighborhood have annual open-doors festivals — see below.

West Pilsen

If you are walking down 18th Street from East Pilsen, it's around Racine that you'll begin to notice the change. Stores have cheerful skeletons in their windows, and inevitably some Spanish-language dance music is bumping off in the distance. By the time you reach 18th and Blue Island, take a break to enjoy the scene. Welcome to West Pilsen.
Quite a lot of artists have studios in West Pilsen, but few have regular open hours. Check at the cafes for information on exhibit openings.

A.P.O. Cultural Center

phone: +1-773-780-1495

address: 1436 W 18th St
The enormous, foreboding stone edifice of the A.P.O. Building houses some worthwhile art exhibitions and the occasional concert along with community programs (such as the pool downstairs). Exhibits are usually free and open to all, but stern old ladies will keep you from wandering elsewhere.
CTA 18th Station

address: 1710 W 18th St
Art and public transit have had a troubled relationship in Chicago, with awful results almost every time the CTA commissions a mural for a station. This one, however, is a gem. Local youth outreach efforts have borne fruit here, creating a walk from the station house to the platforms is nothing short of awe-inspiring (albeit distracting if you're in a hurry to catch a train).
National Museum of Mexican Art

phone: +1-312-738-1503

address: 1852 W 19th St
A lovely, small gallery full of vibrant colors and well-curated installations focused on understanding Mexican as well as Mexican-American history and culture through art. The museum serves as the center of the annual Day of the Dead celebration in the fall — this is a great time to visit to see all the brightly painted, skull-filled, and often humorous Ofrendas.
Prospectus Art Gallery

phone: +1 312-733-6132

address: 1210 W 18th St
Fascinating exhibitions of traditional and contemporary Latin American art. It is a must-see when open, though it does close for long stretches between exhibits.
St. Adalbert Church

phone: +1-312-226-0340

address: 1650 W 17th St
Built in 1914 for the area's Polish community, St. Adalbert's still features murals of rousing crowd favorites like Queen Jadwiga's wedding and the time Our Lady of Częstochowa beat the hell out of some invading Swedes. It now includes a shrine in honor of Our Lady of San Juan de los Lagos and a few other touches for the Mexican Catholics who live in the neighborhood today.
St. Procopius Church

phone: +1-312-226-7887

address: 1641 S Allport St
This towering stone church was built in 1883 for Czech Catholics in the area. Today, it's impressively weathered and gloomy from the street, but bright and austere if you manage a peek inside. Masses are held in English, Spanish, and Croatian.
Thalia Hall

phone: +1-312-526-3851

address: 1807 S Allport St
This ornate former theater was built as a replica of an old opera house in Prague, and in its heyday served as the epicenter of Chicago Bohemian culture. Plays and operas were performed here, and much of the constitution of Czechoslovakia was drafted within these walls as well (at the end of World War I). Nearly a century later, after having served mainly as a residence for the local homeless, things seem to be looking up for Thalia Hall, with Dusek’s Board & Beer restaurant and Punch House bar now resident inside.

East Pilsen

Marc Heiden - (WT-shared) Gorilla Jones at wts wikivoyage

Aside from old industrial atmosphere, there isn't much to see on an average day. The recession hit the East Pilsen art scene hard, and there are only a couple of small galleries that can be visited without an appointment. However, everyone opens up for browsing for the 2nd Fridays Art Walk (free, second Friday of each month, 6PM-10PM). The night often winds up at Skylark (see Bars).
The building at 1932 S Halsted has the highest concentration of studios, but you'll need to call up for access.

Chicago Arts District

phone: +1-312-377-4444

address: 1821 South Halsted Street
This information center is located in the midst of things at 18th and Halsted, but it is generally only open to coincide with the 2nd Fridays Art Walk, so a stop to gather event cards at Kristoffer's Cafe (see Cafes) will be more informative on other days.

Do

Biblioteca Popular del Barrio

address: 1921 S Blue Island Ave
Biblioteca Popular is an autonomous community operated library and art space. As well as providing access to underground, radical, and self-published literature, it is meant to be a safe space for the young and elderly, families, people of color, womyn, queer and trans folk, undocumented immigrants, and working class peoples.
Harrison Park

phone: +1 312-746-5491

address: 1824 S Wood St
If you have kids in tow and they have been patient through the National Museum of Mexican Art (or they need to burn off some energy before going in), you might reward them with some monkey time right next door at Harrison Park, which has a big play-lot with swings, slides, jungle gyms and more.

Events & Festivals

Do not forget the 2nd Fridays Art Walk every month in East Pilsen.

Mole de Mayo

phone: +1 312-733-2287

address: 1800-1820 S Paulina
An annual mole cook-off and outdoor festival.
Chicage Art District

phone: +1-312-738-0786

address: Halsted, around 18th and 19th
Studios in East Pilsen open their doors for an annual weekend-long festival. Even if the art does not resonate with you, it is worth visiting for the chance to explore the interesting physical spaces, from century-old sunken gardens to gargantuan old warehouses.
Pilsen Open Studios

phone: +1-312-733-6132

address: 18th to Cermak, Leavitt to Carpenter
West Pilsen's studios open up for all to see. Local cafes and businesses get involved, and there's a free trolley on call for the route, too. A similar arts fest is often held in Little Village the same weekend.
Fiesta del Sol

phone: +1-312-666-2663

address: 1000-1600 West Cermak Road, between Loomis and Morgan
Fiesta del Sol is an annual fundraising event organized by the Pilsen Neighbors Community Council that has been held annually since 1972. Over the years it has evolved from a block party into a nationally publicized event with corporate sponsorship, but the neighborhood's Hispanic community still has a strong presence. The three-day festival includes live entertainment, food, and vendor booths. Fiesta del Sol is alcohol and tobacco-free.

Buy

Eat

Pilsen restaurants are gradually picking up variety — where once there were only taquerías and pizza joints, you'll now also find Chinese, Italian, and BBQ. But the taquerías remain the stars — authentic, cheap, and really good.
Equally memorable Italian restaurants can be found a little west in Heart of Chicago.

Budget

Carnitas Uruapan

phone: +1 312-226-2654

address: 1725 W 18th Street
Some of the best carnitas (stewed pork) around. (Kids will love the cartoon pigs on the wall as long as they don't connect them to what they're eating.) The cactus salad comes highly recommended, too, but runs out early in the day. As for the rest of the menu, well, you either want a big sheet of fried pork rinds or you don't, and nothing this guide tells you is going to change your mind one way or the other.
Carnitas Don Pedro

phone: +1 312-829-4757

address: 1113 W 18th St
No frills and somewhat inconveniently located, but well worth the effort to get there, with some of the most flavorful carnitas in Chicago.
Panaderia Tortilleria Nuevo Leon Bakery

phone: +1-312-243-5977

address: 1634 W 18th Street
Tasty bakery run by the Nuevo León family, who run the fine restaurant a block down. They serve Mexican bread, pastries, coffee, and other early morning essentials under the watchful eye of a 1986-87 Chicago Bears team poster.
Pizza Nova

phone: +1-312-666-3500

address: 1842 W 18th St
Great stuffed pizza just across the park from the Museum of Mexican Art.
Sabas Vega

phone: +1-312-666-5180

address: 1808 S Ashland Ave
Another good option for carnitas, with more seating than Uruapan. If it is cold outside, take note: they brag that their cauldron runs at !
Tacos Palacio

phone: +1-312-733-0433

address: 1700 S Halsted St
Perhaps the best taquería in Pilsen, so if you don't intend to have a sit-down multi-course meal, head straight here to grab some dirt cheap, incredible tacos.
Taquería Los Comales #3

phone: +1-312-666-2251

address: 1544 West 18th Street
A local chain that's almost certainly the quickest draw among Pilsen taquerías, with food made fresh and very fast, and served by a friendly waitstaff.
The Jibarito Stop

phone: +1-312-988-0585

address: 1646 W. 18th St
Puerto Rican joint serving jibaritos, a sandwich which uses slices of plantains instead of bread; a dish which originated with the Puerto Rican community in Chicago and cannot be found in Puerto Rico.

Mid-range

De Colores

phone: +1 312-226-9886

address: 1626 S Halsted St
Fresh, upscale Mexican cuisine (and desserts from Kristoffer's across the street) with an extensive gallery space. It is a great stop during the 2nd Fridays Art Walk.
Honky Tonk BBQ

phone: +1-312-226-7427

address: 1213 W 18th St
Exactly what it sounds like — the speakers deliver honky tonk music, while the kitchen serves pulled pork sandwiches, beef briskets, rib tips, and cornbread. There's a full bar as well, with live music on Thursdays and weekends.
Perez Restaurant

phone: +1-312-421-3631

address: 1163 W 18th Street
Heaping plates of Mexican food and powerful margaritas, with outdoor seating when the weather permits. (Not to mention easy parking; hard to come by with other restaurants in the area.) Get the Lime (limon) Margarita. You won't regret it.

Splurge

HaiSous

phone: +1-312-702-1303

address: 1800 S Carpenter St
Highly-rated upscale Vietnamese restaurant, known for its modern interpretation of traditional Vietnamese cuisine.

Heart of Chicago

These are a bit out of the way but not hard to find, and if you like Italian food & ambiance, it's definitely worth the trip. Take the Pink Line to Western, walk a few blocks blocks south and then turn left to reach the 2400 South block of Oakley.

Bacchanalia

phone: +1-773-254-6555

address: 2413 S Oakley
A warm, old world atmosphere and a busy kitchen.
Bruna's Ristorante

phone: +1-773-254-5550

address: 2424 S Oakley
Opened in 1933, and owned by an immigrant from Siena in Tuscany, who brings that influence to some of the dishes served here.
Ignotz Ristorante

phone: +1-773-579-0300

address: 2421 S Oakley
Thin-crust pizza, veal, and the straight-outta-The Sopranos exterior are the specials here.
La Fontanella

phone: +1-773-927-5249

address: 2414 S Oakley
Since 1972. Dimly lit, with traditional Italian dishes and some creations of the chef.

Drink

Pilsen is slowly building its nightlife options. Most of these options cater to local hipsters and artists in the area. Aside from the options listed here, a few of the restaurants listed above have bars worthy of your drinking dollar, Cuernavaca in particular. Otherwise, you might head over to the Near West Side on the 8 Halsted bus and booze it up there.

Cafes

Cafe Jumping Bean

phone: +1 312-455-0019

address: 1439 W 18th St
Reputation has it that this is Chicago's warmest and most inviting neighborhood coffee shop. It certainly lives up to the name: tiny, and always jumping with people.
Cafe Mestizo

phone: +1 312-425-5724

address: 1738 W 18th Street
It's hard not to lose track of time at this welcoming, dimly-lit coffee shop. The walls are packed with work by local artists, and there's plenty of comfortable seating. Free Wi-Fi, too.
Kristoffer's Cafe and Bakery

phone: +1 312-829-4150

address: 1733 S Halsted St
A warm, large space with a range of sandwiches, drinks, and baked goods. (They call their seven varieties of tres leches cakes a family specialty.) You will find free Wi-Fi and flyers for every art opening in the area.

Bars

Simone's

phone: +1-312-666-8601

address: 960 W 18th St
Good food (especially the Mexican-influenced Pilsen Burger), but go for the beer: while their mixed drinks cost more than Skylark and aren't nearly as strong, they have an absolutely spectacular collection of beers on tap and in cans/bottles. That, and the decor is done out in this bizarre steampunk-pinball machine theme. They have good DJs spinning on most nights and trivia nights on Tuesdays.
Skylark

phone: +1-312-948-5275

address: 2149 S Halsted St
From the outside, it looks like an old-man bar that's been prepped for use as a bunker during World War II, but on the inside there's an excellent selection of cheap beer, pinball, a photobooth, some of the strongest $5 mixed drinks you'll find anywhere in the city, and tater tots — oh, delicious tater tots. If you have poor taste in movies, you might be delighted to hear that Skylark was featured prominently in the 2006 movie, The Breakup.