Chicago/Wicker Park

Among the most pointless topics of debate in Chicago life is whether Wicker Park has changed, is full of yuppies now, isn't what it used to be, etc. The answers are simple: yes, maybe, and who cares? Just like the Velvet Underground would have been playing stadiums if everybody who claimed to have seen them in 1967 actually did, if everybody who claims to have been there when Wicker Park was cool actually was there, it would be a city roughly the size of Cleveland. Wicker Park is uniquely well-served by transportation among West Side neighborhoods, with the CTA's Blue Line elevated train and the major arteries of North, Milwaukee, and Damen all converging upon the center of the area.
Wicker Park was founded by the Wicker brothers in the 1870s, and it became part of the row of prosperous immigrant neighborhoods on the West Side of Chicago — the German and Polish beer barons of Wicker Park were neighbored by the farmers of Bucktown, the Ukrainians in their titular Village, the Greeks and Italians of the Near West Side, and the Czechs of Pilsen. The brewery fortunes left two legacies that survive today: gorgeous, European-style mansions and apartment buildings, and a truly world-class set of dive bars. By 1900, Wicker Park had become Chicago's Polish Downtown. The city's oldest and most prominent Polish settlement, Polish Downtown was the political, cultural, and social capital of not only Poles in Chicago but for Polish Americans throughout North America. The area around Polonia Triangle at the intersection of Division, Ashland and Milwaukee Avenue played host to almost every major Polish organization in the United States.
After the economic decline of the West Side, Puerto Ricans became the majority population in Wicker Park. With them came the other two elements that would turn the neighborhood's commercial fortunes around: low rents in those great buildings, and an art scene that became known for exciting new work. Artists and musicians from outside the area moved in, finding cheap studios in places like the Flatiron Arts Building and good venues to exhibit and perform like the Double Door and the excellent Empty Bottle. Among many others, the Smashing Pumpkins were formed in the area, and Liz Phair's album Exile in Guyville re-cast the Rolling Stones' Main Street in Wicker Park; on the visual arts side, the long-running Around the Coyote festival continues as an annual gathering of the neighborhood's artistic highlights. (Years later, the John Cusack film High Fidelity attempted to capture Wicker Park in all of its elitist, obnoxious, trend-setting glory, and was generally well received. However, when MTV's The Real World arrived in 2001, it sparked off a memorable neighborhood-wide fit.)
Of course, all vinyl pants must split in the end, and by the mid-90s, real estate prices were on the rise, and bar stools were colonized by conversations about who had been priced out (the Puerto Rican artists, for one) and where the next hot scene would be (opinions vary). Demand for housing in proximity to Wicker Park turned its neighbors Bucktown and Ukrainian Village into hot residential properties, and the boundaries between neighborhoods have become less meaningful with time. There are still a few Ukrainians in what's affectionately known as The Uke, but there are only a few places where their paths cross with the condo conversion kids: aside from the sidewalks in front of the astonishing churches in the area and in line at the terrific old bakeries, all style becomes equal at the historic Division Street Bath House.
Today, a few national chains have settled in among the independent fashion boutiques in Wicker Park, but it still raises a righteous middle finger to the glossy shopping on the Magnificent Mile, still offers the best places to get a cheap beer, and still has residents who, per capita, care more about quality music and restaurants than anywhere else in the city.

By train

The O'Hare branch of the CTA Blue Line has stops in West Town (Chicago, Grand), Ukrainian Village (Division) and Wicker Park (Damen). The Damen stop is particularly useful, as it's right at the epicenter of Wicker Park and the border of Bucktown, and a short walk south to Ukrainian Village and the nightlife on Division.
If you're going further afield in Ukrainian Village than Division — say, to the Empty Bottle (see Drink) — get to know the relevant bus routes, as the CTA trains don't run particularly close.

By bus

• 9 Ashland is an all-nighter that runs within walking distance of the shops and bars in Wicker Park (on Milwaukee) and the nightlife on Division.
• 49 Western runs down Western Avenue for nearly the full length of the city, passing through the western edge of Ukrainian Village. It's an all-night route.
• 50 Damen runs through the heart of Wicker Park and Ukrainian Village, but lacks night-owl service.
• 56 Milwaukee is the king of the West Side, running through the center of Wicker Park and along the eastern fringe of Ukrainian Village.
• 65 Grand runs from downtown to West Town, connecting with the Grand Blue Line stop, and the southern fringe of Ukrainian Village.
• 66 Chicago runs from the Near North through West Town (connecting with the Chicago Blue Line stop) and Ukrainian Village, and onward to Austin. It's also an all-night route.
• 70 Division is vital for the nightlife on Division, connecting to the Blue Line at the Division Blue Line stop.

By car

I-90/94, that shining exemplar of Chicago gridlock, runs close to Ukrainian Village — exit at Division and head straight west, or make a right off Division on Milwaukee to reach Wicker Park.
This isn't one of the worst parts of the city for parking, but it can still be a challenge, and there are no public lots or garages in the area. Be patient and circle the side streets. Many upscale restaurants offer valet parking for $10 or so. Permit-only parking is in place on many side streets, so check street signs. Damen in particular has some oddball no-parking hours.

While the art scene has largely moved on from Wicker Park, many of the galleries in the Flatiron Arts Building have First Friday open hours (6PM-9PM).

• Flatiron Arts Building

  phone: +1-312-335-3000
  address: 1579 N Milwaukee Ave
  This triangular behemoth was built in 1913 by the great Holabird & Roche, one of their few major products outside the Loop. The first floor is all retail, but the second and third floors have small art studios and galleries. Aside from the First Friday open hours (above), a few studios and galleries also have Saturday and Sunday afternoon hours.

• Holy Trinity Cathedral

  phone: +1-773-486-6064
  address: 1121 N Leavitt St
  Orthodox church in Ukrainian Village, designed by Louis Sullivan in 1903. It was funded in part by Czar Nicholas II; today, it thrives as a neighborhood parish.

• The Polish Museum of America

  phone: +1-773-384-3352
  address: 984 N Milwaukee Ave
  Library and exhibitions on Polish heritage, both in Chicago and in Poland. It is home to the largest collection of memorabilia relating to Ignace Paderewski, and the museum is purportedly haunted by the once famous pianist.

• The Society for Arts

  phone: +1-312-486-9612
  address: 1112 N Milwaukee Ave
  This building was designed as a bank by Whitney & Williams when it was built in 1920. The society houses non-profit art galleries which focus on promoting cultural communication between Europe and the United States. The society also hosts film festivals exploring European cinema, art exhibitions, and concerts.

• St Nicholas Ukrainian Catholic Church

  phone: +1-773-276-4537
  address: 2238 W Rice St
  No shortage of magnificent Ukrainian churches in this part of town — this soaring example was built in 1913 on the model of St Sophia's in Kiev. The eye-catching thirteen onion domes stand for Christ and the 12 apostles. The one weekly English-language mass is at 11:30AM on Sundays.

• Sts Volodymyr & Olha Ukrainian Catholic Church

  phone: +1-312-455-0178
  address: 2247 W Chicago Ave
  This huge, golden-domed, Ukrainian Catholic church has been a local landmark since its construction in 1973. The church was built during a brief neighborhood schism over a move to use the Gregorian instead of the Julian calendar. How to upstage a church modeled after Kiev's St Sophia's? Build one modeled after Istanbul's Hagia Sophia! It is well worth a visit to marvel at the magnificent interior and iconostasis. Even if you come by when it's closed, you can appreciate at the mosaic over the entrance depicting the baptism of the Ukrainians by the parish's namesake saints. Most masses in Ukrainian.

• Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art

  phone: +1-773-227-5522
  address: 2320 W Chicago Ave
  This is a superb, lovingly curated collection of abstract and minimalist art by major Ukrainian and Ukrainian-American artists. The three permanent galleries represent not only Ukrainian heritage, but also one of Chicago's best and most underrated experiences for art lovers of any ethnicity.

• Ukrainian National Museum

  phone: +1-312-421-8020
  address: 2249 W Superior St
  Almost certainly the best collection of Ukrainian ethnographic exhibits (musical instruments, traditional costumes, folk art, etc.) in the United States. Historical exhibits cover issues such as the famines under Stalin and the fallout after the Chernobyl meltdown. The museum also hosts an impressive library and archives for researchers, as well as occasional Ukrainian-related art exhibitions.

Music venues are the main attraction here, particularly the Double Door and the Empty Bottle (see below).

• Chopin Theatre

  phone: +1-773-278-1500
  address: 1543 W Division St
  An experimental theater complex encompassing two stages, a cafe, and a gallery. Many works in translation from Eastern Europe have made their US debut here, although the theater keeps strong ties to Wicker Park and local history as well.

• Multikulti

  phone: +1-773-435-9432
  address: 1000 N Milwaukee Ave
  Multikulti is a collaborative avantgarde multi-cultural arts venue. Hosting jam sessions, live music, film screenings and an art gallery, the 3,500 sq ft facility includes an office and multimedia production studio, a community room and performance venue, an arts and material crafts studio, a conference room, kitchen, and the Chicago Community Darkroom. Typically ask for a $5 donation.

• The Show Below

  address: Crocodile Lounge, 1540 N Milwaukee Ave
  A great way to sample local comedy or catch up-and-coming acts. Each night features sets from three visiting guest groups and the house ensemble, The Crocodile Players. The show is free and the bar gives out free personal pizzas when you purchase a drink. Performers come from all over Chicago (including: Second City, iO, the Annoyance, ComedySportz and The Playground), but the mission is providing opportunities for young, independent and out of state groups.

The intersection of Milwaukee, North, and Damen is the indie Magnificent Mile. Start at the six corners and explore from there — you'll find plenty of cutting-edge fashion boutiques heading north on Damen, and more in both directions on Milwaukee, along with national chains like the Levi Store.
You're also liable to do well searching for vinyl records here, both in Wicker Park and Ukrainian Village.

Books

• The Boring Store

  phone: +1-773-772-8108
  address: 1331 N Milwaukee Ave
  Most certainly not a secret-agent supply store, as the Chris Ware signs take pains to stress. Inside, proceeds from the sale of perfectly normal items like cough silencers support a non-profit writing/tutoring center for kids founded by Dave Eggers of McSweeney's fame.

• Myopic Books

  phone: +1-773-862-4882
  address: 1564 N Milwaukee Ave
  Justly beloved used book store with cats, clutter (80,000 books worth), and great hours. They occasionally host Experimental Music Mondays and poetry readings on Sundays, but with three floors, there's always a quiet corner.

• Quimby's Bookstore

  phone: +1-773-342-0910
  address: 1854 W North Ave
  Lots of edgy books, indie comix, and hip zines (hand-stapled and well-polished alike). If somebody out there is publishing about it, Quimby's probably has it.

• Abraham Lincoln Book Shop

  phone: +1-312-944-3085
  address: 824 W. Superior St
  Offers "Historical Americana," namely Lincoln and Civil War items, rare and autographed books, an amazing collection of Civil War photographs and salt prints, and all sorts of fascinating miscellany. Check out their "Essential" shelves for aspiring collectors and see how your own stacks up. Appraisal services are also available.

Clothes

• Alcala's Western Wear

  phone: +1-312-226-0152
  address: 1733 W Chicago Ave
  One perfectly reasonable reaction to the trendy fashion in Wicker Park is to go country. Alcala's has been in the neighborhood for a long time, back when the Mexican cowboy look ruled the local scene. The big, family-owned store has a ton of leather boots & jackets, not to mention 5,000 hats.

• Beadniks

  phone: +1-773-276-2323
  address: 1937 W Division St
  Beads for the true bead fiend, both ready-made and ready to be made. There are classes for beginners on Tuesday nights (7-9PM, $60), and occasional workshops — check the calendar.

• Kokorokoko

  phone: +1-312-421-2799
  address: 1112 N Ashland Ave
  Men's and women's vintage clothing from the 1980s-90s.

• Penelope's

  phone: +1-773-395-2351
  address: 1913 W Division St
  Good-looking clothes — Penelope's carries younger, hip brands for men and women, but it's quality stuff, made to last. They have some good handbags, messenger bags, and cool gifts as well.

• Saint Alfred

  phone: +1-773-486-7159
  address: 1531 N Milwaukee Ave
  Collectible sneakers both classic and modern are sold here, along with cool kicks and other gear by local designers.

• Silver Room

  phone: +1-773-278-7130
  address: 1442 N Milwaukee Ave
  Need a great gift for someone back home (or yourself)? Silver Room has cool stuff for men and women — good purses, hats, jewelry and accessories. The staff make shopping here a pleasure.

• Una Mae's Freak Boutique

  phone: +1-773-276-7002
  address: 1528 N Milwaukee Ave
  Vintage clothing store run by nice people. Una Mae's has been around for a while, and they have great items for men and women, particularly from the 1960s and 70s.

Music

• Dusty Groove

  phone: +1-773-342-5800
  address: 1120 N Ashland Ave
  This record store is regarded as one of the best in the country for R&B, soul, and jazz.

• Reckless Records

  phone: +1-773-235-3727
  address: 1379 N Milwaukee Ave
  Recently moved to a larger, brighter location, Reckless Records is a place for obscure vinyl and a well-organized assortment of CDs. They also sell DVDs and VHS. Though best known for being where High Fidelity was set, they are slightly more agreeable now about purchases.

Others

• Odd Obsession

  phone: +1-773-276-0894
  address: 1822 N Milwaukee Ave
  Ultra-eccentric video rental store. YouTube pales, cuts its hair and goes to law school next to the rarities found here. It’s cheap, too. If you plan on being in Chicago for a while, you can volunteer to work here.

• Mojo Spa

  phone: +1-773-235-6656
  address: 1468 N Milwaukee Ave
  A spa also known for its body butters and dessert-shaped soaps, all made locally. Small staff is helpful and very friendly.

• Sprout

  phone: +1-312-226-5950
  address: 745 N Damen Ave
  Fun plant store featuring all kinds of nifty houseplants, terrarium supplies, and gardening material. Outdoor section also has a nice variety.

• CVS (Old MB Bank Building)

  phone: +1-773-342-5917
  address: 1200 N Ashland Ave
  What's a CVS doing here? Well the answer is this particular CVS is a great example of adaptive reuse of an old bank building, the inside is spectacular complete with high vaulted ceilings and old hanging lights. What better way to pick up forgotten toiletries than to do so in such a classy place.

• Walgreens (Old Noel State Bank)

  phone: +1-773-342-9161
  address: 1601 N Milwaukee Ave
  Walgreens too? Wicker Park must be becoming way too corporate. Seriously this is the nicest Walgreens you will ever visit, topping even the CVS above in terms of adaptive reuse of a beautiful old bank building. They have lots of upscale goods like sushi and frozen yogurt and you're even greeted by a guy in a suit, bringing to mind the fancy Taco Bell scene in Demolition Man. Where else can you get your cold medicine in an old bank vault?

Budget

The twin low-price culinary delights around here are the bakeries of Wicker Park and the delis of Ukrainian Village, many of which have been in business for several decades. The Uke also has some great Ukrainian grocers, particularly on Iowa Street. Additionally, as Wicker Park is a bar destination, there is no shortage of cheaper eats, cafes, and chain restaurants.

• Alliance Bakery & Café

  phone: +1-773-278-0366
  address: 1736 W Division St
  Just a look at the whirls of frosting and gingerbread fortresses in the window tends to bring a smile. The tarts, cupcakes, and coffee back that up. Alliance has been here for more than 80 years. There's a pleasant, inviting cafe next door with free WiFi.

• Chopper's

  phone: +1-773-227-7800
  address: 1659 N Ashland Ave
  A great hot dog and burger place with what may be the best milkshakes in Chicago.

• Harold's Chicken Shack #36

  phone: +1-773-252-2424
  address: 1361 N Milwaukee Ave
  Westward the course of the fried chicken empire makes its way, to Wicker Park. Some say this outpost makes compromises for the upscale surroundings — wheat bread, moist towelettes, a general lack of bulletproof glass — but even if they do, it's still the best cheap fried chicken you'll find here or anywhere north.

• Kasia's Deli

  phone: +1-773-486-7500
  address: 2101 W Chicago Ave
  Some call these the best pierogies in Chicago — high praise, indeed. The cabbage rolls are also highly recommended. If you like what you eat but live out of state, take comfort: Kasia's will deliver the good stuff anywhere in the USA.

• Letizia's Natural Bakery

  phone: +1-773-342-1011
  address: 2144 W Division St
  Breakfast sandwiches, espresso and baked goods with good, healthy cooking. If you enjoy Letizia's, come back later for Enoteca, the wine bar under the same management next door.

• La Pasadita

  phone: +1-773-278-0384
  address: 1132, 1140 N Ashland Ave
  Gradual expansion over the past thirty years has led to the curious appearance of two (there used to be three!) identically named establishments within the same half-block of Ashland. Both are family-owned and make tasty Mexican tacos and burritos, with slight variations in the menus. The newest location at 1132 N Ashland is somewhat Americanized compared to the other two.

• Penny's Noodle Shop

  phone: +1-773-394-0100
  address: 1542 N Damen Ave
  Excellent Southeast Asian dishes and cheap for such large portions.

• Podhalanka

  phone: +1-773-486-6655
  address: 1549 W Division St
  Real Polish food at the old Polish triangle of Ashland, Milwaukee, and Division. Podlanka has one of the best cabbage soups in town; pierogies, potato pancakes, and many other delights await. Locals, from construction workers and students to nuns fill the place. The prices are great.

• Sultan's Market

  phone: +1-773-235-3072
  address: 2057 W North Ave
  Few restaurants smell as good as Sultan's Market, and the prices are absurdly low for the amount of satisfaction you'll get. Cheese and egg pitas make a nice complement to any falafel sandwich, and they also do a fine shawerma. Cash only, ATM in the back.

• Native Foods Café

  phone: +1-773-489-8480
  address: 1484 N Milwaukee Ave
  Originally from California, it is an entirely vegan 'fast food' restaurant that also offers vegan desserts, organic drinks and a small craft beer offering. They usually have a daily burger special.

There is no shortage of cafés in the area. Here's one of a few on Milwaukee Avenue:

• The Wormhole

  phone: +1-773-661-2468
  address: 1462 N Milwaukee Ave
  With a prop DeLorean in the front window, this quirky 80s themed coffee shop offers up local baked goods and fresh coffee. Ample seating, if you get there at the right time. Offers WiFi.

For people who have an inexplicable craving for bad things, there is a Taco Bell that serves beer at 1439 N Milwaukee Ave. There's also a Starbucks and a Stan's Donuts right next to the Damen Blue Line stop. To be noted, these places have little in the way of seating. If you need a bit more than just one meal, there is an Aldi at 1767 N Milwaukee Ave.

Mid-range

Sushi is everywhere in Wicker Park — there's no shortage of style, but only a few places offer substance to match.

• Bite

  phone: +1-773-395-2483
  address: 1039 N Western Ave
  The food is all right (and vegan-friendly), but Bite is right next door to the Empty Bottle, perfect for a pre-show meal. (There will be lines, but they're never as bad as they look.) Alcohol can be brought over from the Empty Bottle's bar.

• Dimo's Pizzeria

  phone: +1-773-525-4580
  address: 1615 N Damen Ave
  A thin crust pizza joint, best known for their unusual pairings of pizza ingredients and 'pizza brunch', with no shortage of vegan friendly options for all.

• Sushi X

  phone: +1-312-491-9232
  address: 1615 N Damen Ave
  An easy-to-miss restaurant, the dark, modern atmosphere is accented with projected anime, house music, and great sushi. Usually has a special for the 'roll of the month'.

• Bongo Room

  phone: +1-773-489-0690
  address: 1470 N Milwaukee Ave
  Great breakfast, with two stars: the design-your-own omelets and the big, delicious praline banana pancakes. Show up early: the line has been known to run down Milwaukee on weekends.

• Coalfire Pizza

  phone: +1-312-226-2625
  address: 1321 W Grand Ave
  In the pizza wars between Chicago-style, Brooklyn, Naples, and gourmet-trendy, Chicago of course wins. But the pizza wars are truly a fraud, overlooking pizza (more precisely, apizza) from the humbler city of New Haven, which may indeed may be the best of them all. Chicago's new coal-fired pizza oven serves some of the best apizza outside New Haven, and while it may seem irreverent to eat pizza from Connecticut while in Chicago, you'd honestly be hard pressed to do better.

• The Handlebar

  phone: +1-773-384-9546
  address: 2311 W North Ave
  A vegetarian friendly restaurant and beer garden in Wicker Park, and the headquarters of Chicago's bicycle culture.

• Piece Brewery & Pizzeria

  phone: +1-773-772-4422
  address: 1927 W North Ave
  Thin-crust pizza and micro-brews. Live music most Fridays, karaoke on Thursdays at 9PM, and a recent sensation — live band karaoke on Saturdays at 11PM. The kitchen usually isn't open past 11:30PM or so, though.

• The Smoke Daddy BBQ

  phone: +1-773-772-6656
  address: 1804 W Division St
  Jazz, swing, bluegrass and BBQ on Division. Smoke Daddy has live music seven nights a week, with big sandwiches and huge rib platters. They offer a BBQ Veggie sandwich if you're trying to coerce a vegetarian friend to come along.

• Big Star

  phone: +1-773-235-4039
  address: 1531 N Damen Ave
  Old auto repair garage converted into one of the most popular Mexican (gourmet style) street food spots in the city. One of the best places in the city for people watching, the bar/restaurant can be unbelievably crowded and it might be better just to grab a few tacos to go from the carryout window and watch all the hipsters/yuppies running around the Damen stop about while waiting for your food.

Splurge

A few of the places named above, particularly the sushi restaurants, could easily become Splurge affairs depending on how many drinks accompany your meal.

• Mirai

  phone: +1-773-862-8500
  address: 2020 W Division St
  Future style and fresh sushi in formidable amounts, with a second-floor sake lounge. If price is no concern, Mirai is the place to revel in pure atmosphere (and raw food).

Other parts of the city have their charms, but when it comes to drinking in Chicago, there's no contest: this is the place. And while there are plenty of places left for those-in-the-know, Division Street may have taken over from the more touristed (and generally obnoxious) Rush Street in the Near North for sheer numbers in nightlife.
In Ukrainian Village, watch for "Zimne Piwo", Ukrainian for "cold beer." Plenty of apparently nameless bars make themselves known with those words under an old style sign.

Dive bars

• Gold Star

  phone: +1-773-227-8700
  address: 1755 W Division St
  An old, speakeasy-era bar among the Division nightlife that now caters to a younger crowd, but hits all the marks: cheap beer, a good jukebox, pool, and cheap beer. (Also cheap beer.)

• Happy Village

  phone: +1-773-486-1512
  address: 1059 N Wolcott Ave
  Yeah, it's a ping-pong dive bar. God bless America, and the beer garden too, which is the best on (well, off) Division — like walking into a backyard family reunion.

• Innertown Pub

  phone: +1-773-235-9795
  address: 1935 W Thomas St
  It's hard to say exactly what sets it apart, but with the fall of Tuman's, any survey of Ukrainian Village residents would place the Innertown first among dive bars. (Excepting the neighbors, that is, who are trying to get it closed down.) It's not easy to find but it's a landmark, so follow the noise or spend the cheap-beer savings on a cab.

• Phyllis' Musical Inn

  phone: +1-773-486-9862
  address: 1800 W Division St
  Everyone feels welcome at the Musical Inn. Outdoor seating is packed on Division in the summer, which is why this is one to know — few people are aware that a great beer garden lurks behind the tall stone fence next door to Phyllis', which looks like a garden variety dive bar at first glance. (Befitting the name, there are bands here sometimes.)

• Rainbo Club

  phone: +1-773-489-5999
  address: 1150 N Damen Ave
  An old bar — the classic neon sign tips that right away — with a few literary references in its history. In a neighborhood of hipster dives, this is the hipster dive, but at least you can say you've been.

Music venues

• Debonair Social Club

  phone: +1-773-227-7990
  address: 1575 N Milwaukee Ave
  The emo-rap electro kids like it here. There are two floors of video walls, color lightboxes, ferocious deployments of lacquer, and DJs who fly around the room. It's all a little stressful, but perhaps you're into that sort of thing.

• Empty Bottle

  phone: +1-773-276-3600
  address: 1035 N Western Ave
  To Chicago as the Knitting Factory is to NYC, the Empty Bottle hosts a mix of touring indie-rock veterans, local bands, and occasional appearances by American and Dutch avant-garde jazz. The sound and the room are OK at best, but the people who work here (and their great taste in music) make it exceptional. They also program events in Logan Square and Portage Park, among others. If you're hungry before a show, step next door to Bite (see Eat).

• The Hideout

  phone: +1-773-227-4433
  address: 1354 W Wabansia Ave
  One of the finest drinking and hollering establishments in the U.S., the Hideout hosts the best in alt-folk, bluegrass, Americana and just plain hillbilly music. The place is a bit hard to find, hidden as it is next to the city's main north-side refueling station for garbage trucks, but it's more than worth the trouble. Of special interest to old-timey fans is the regular Tuesday night appearance of Devil in a Woodpile.

• Subterranean

  address: 2011 W North Ave
  A laid-back club with diverse music and crowd. DJs spin in the lounge and indie rock appears in the Cabaret. Drinks are worth the price, and there's a bonus: once you stumble outside, you're surrounded by great after-hours dive eateries.

Others

• Blind Robin

  phone: +1-773-395-3002
  address: 853 N Western Ave
  Just a couple blocks south of the Empty Bottle, this is a good place to chill after a show — good beer selection, friendly bartenders, and plenty of board games. The same owners run Lemmings and Green Eye Lounge in Bucktown.

• Mac's

  phone: +1-773-782-4400
  address: 1801 W Division St
  A sports bar, but not in a meathead sort of way, and not at all like the post-fraternity college sports bars in Lincoln Park. Good food, TVs, and beer.

• Tuman's

  phone: +1-773-782-1400
  address: 2159 W Chicago Ave
  No longer the Alcohol Abuse Center that defined an era in the Ukrainian Village, but the new owners have kept the name and overcome local resentment with food, flatscreen TVs, and an all-around decent neighborhood bar.

• The Violet Hour

  phone: +1-773-252-1500
  address: 1520 N Damen Ave
  Named after a line in T.S. Eliot's The Waste Land, The Violet Hour is hidden away — there's no sign, and no name on the door. Inside, though, is a marvelous, decadent, Alice-in-Wonderland plus speakeasy vibe. It's a great place for a date. The cocktails are $11-12, but they won't disappoint — certified mixologists take up to four minutes to make them. And if you've never had a banana peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich deep fried and dusted with bacon crumbs, here's your chance.

• House of Two Urns Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1-773-235-1408
  address: 1239 N Greenview Ave
  Offers full breakfast, free parking, and charming rooms. Most have private en-suite bathrooms; all guests have access to free WiFi, kitchens, laundry and wonderful deck/garden areas.

• Ruby Room

  phone: +1-773-235-2323
  address: 1743-45 W Division St
  A handful of B&B-style rooms above a rejuvenation spa in an 1896 building, with amenities geared toward relaxation — lush, comfortable decor, but no television or telephones. But it's right in the midst of the lively Wicker Park scene, so you won't miss them...much. Two-night minimum stay on weekends.

• Urban Holiday Lofts

  phone: +1-312-532-6949
  address: 2014 W Wabansia Ave
  Hostel located above Olivia's Market. Free wireless internet and computer terminals, complimentary breakfast, kitcken, and laundry facilities available.

• Wicker Park Inn

  phone: +1-773-486-2743
  address: 1329 N Wicker Park Ave
  B&B with five beautiful rooms on-site and three apartments across the street for nightly rentals. Friendly staff can help you get the lay of the neighborhood.

Wicker Park keeps a slightly rough appearance, but that's mainly for the enjoyment of the younger residents. Use common sense while out and you'll have nothing to worry about. (Don't leave valuables in cars, though.) Ukrainian Village is much the same, but stay alert around alleys while walking on side streets. In that distinctly Chicago fashion of invisible barriers respected on both sides of the law, crime stays almost exclusively on the west side of Western Avenue. But if you parked on the west side of Western, take care while walking back to your car after dark.

The following libraries provide free internet access:

• Bucktown/Wicker Park Library

  phone: +1-312-744-6022
  address: 1701 N Milwaukee Ave
  One block north of the North/Milwaukee/Damen intersection.

• West Town Library

  phone: +1-312-743-0450
  address: 1625 W Chicago Ave
  Old department store converted into library.

• If you're looking to check out one of the city's best collections of commercial Art Deco architecture by greats such as Z. Erol Smith, head north to Belmont-Central in what is one of the few intact streetcar shopping districts in Chicago and an Eastern European culinary heaven.
• Pilsen is the most-quoted inheritor of Wicker Park's original bohemian mantle, and makes for an interesting contrast.
• However, its become apparent in the last couple years that nearby Logan Square may have actually taken that mantle.
• Looking for traces of the neighborhood Nelson Algren wrote about in Wicker Park's heyday as the center of Chicago's Polish Downtown? You'll find the sausage shops and old-style Polish restaurants that carry on as if health food and celebrity chefs never happened in Jackowo — Chicago's Polish Village.
• If, on the other hand, it is the demise of Wicker Park's Puerto Rican community that you are lamenting, retrace its migration west along Division Street into Humboldt Park on the Far West Side — the best Puerto Rican food in the city awaits.