Copacabana

Situated relatively close to the capital of La Paz, it's a popular resort destination for foreign travellers and locals.

History

This is the original Copacabana lending its name to the beach in Rio de Janeiro. The name is derived from the Aymara kota kawana, meaning "view of the lake", and the region was revered by the Inca even before the Spaniards built their chapel of the Virgin and turned it into a Catholic pilgrimage site.

Orientation

The town's central square is Plaza 2 de Febrero, and from there Avenida 6 de Agosto slides down to the lakeside. It's packed with souvenir shops, hostels, and restaurants, largely catering to foreign tourists. Avenida Jaregui one block north has a more local feel, with street markets and grocery stores.

From La Paz

Local (mini)buses leave from La Paz Cemetario terminal and Río Seco in El Alto, while tourist buses leave from the main La Paz Bus Statiom. The fare is around Bs. 20-25 and travel time is 3½ hr. At the Tiquina Strait, you get off the bus and take a quick ferry ride (Bs. 2) to pick up the bus (which is ferried across by barge) on the other side.
Buses arrive in Copacabana at Plaza 2 de Febrero and leave from Plaza Sucre.

From Sorata

It is possible to get to/from Sorata without going back to La Paz. Get on a La Paz-bound bus, minibus, or micro from either town, tell the driver you wish to go to Sorata/Copacabana and you will be dropped off at the small lakeside town of Huarina (2 hr from La Paz). Cross the road and wait for a Sorata/Copacabana bound bus or minibus with space to pass. They should honk their horn if they have space and see people waiting, but it wouldn't hurt to keep an eye out and flag one down if you see it first. Best to get started early as you may have a bit of a wait at Huarina—it should still be quicker than going all the way to La Paz then 2 hr back in the same direction though.

From Peru

Buses also leave from Puno in Peru, and take roughly the same 3.5 hr to arrive in Copacabana; half an hour is typically spent at the border, just 7.5 km south of Copacabana. Buses from Puno will stop just before the border and passengers are urged to change money there. The rates are abyssal. This scam was still active in late 2015.
If you want to travel during the day from Cusco to Copacabana, you will need to spend the night in Puno, no matter what the bus companies tell you! The bus from Cusco to Puno arrives in Puno between 15:00-16:00. The buses from Puno to Copacabana leave only at 07:30 and 14:30.
There are three companies leaving Cusco at 22:00. In all three options you have to change bus in Puno! All of them arrive around 06:00 in Puno, the bus on to Copacabana leaves at 07:30.
Vans and/or shared cabs leave for the Peruvian border from Plaza Sucre as soon as they fill up. Bs. 3, 30 min. From the border to the Peruvian town of Yungani its about 2 km, 1 by van. From Yungani to Puno buses and vans leave several times every hour, S/5. This way is somewhat slower and less comfortable, but cheaper, than direct buses.

The town is quite small, so taxis are hardly needed. From 2 de Febrero, you can hire pedicabs to carry luggage to your hotel.

• Basilica of Our Lady of CopacabanaCompleted in 1576, is one of the oldest churches in Bolivia and is a fine example of Moorish style architecture. (The current structure dates to 1805.) It houses the statue of La Virgen de la Candelaria (also called the "Dark Virgin"), reputed to have miraculous healing powers. The original statue was carved from cactus in 1583 by Francisco Tito Yupanqui, nephew of Inca emperor Huayna Capac. It has made the church Bolivia's most revered pilgrimage site, and its reputation travelled far and wide in its time, even leading someone to create a replica and build a chapel for it on a beach in Brazil.

• Museo del Poncho

  address: Tito Yupanqui street # 42
  The Museo del Poncho exhibits a broad variety of weavings and clothing from Andean communities; particular pieces that are part of the male attire. It shows how the poncho is more than just a piece of clothing, but a symbol of identity, social status, and authority.

• Cerro El CalvarioThis imposing hill overlooks the town from the north end of the beach, and it's a moderately strenuous 30-min climb. There are fourteen stations of the cross along the way, where you may want to stop and pray for stronger legs and lungs. The best time to go is around sunset, and hope the weather cooperates. There are tons of trash on the top of the hill, so take yours back down the hill!

• On the other end of the shore are two hills with ancient Inca ruins.

Money

• There are several ATMs all over town that accept Maestro, Mastercard and Visa, for example on Avenida 6 de Agosto near the top.
• There are several cambistas changing dollars, euros or Peruvian soles, at quite competitive rates, just shop around. They might even improve the rate by some notches if you appear hesitant and are about to head for the next one. Prodem also change dollars for a good rate and gives cash advances on Visa and Mastercard credit cards.

Shopping

• Lots of stores and shops line the Avenida 6 de Agosto selling local handicrafts, alpaca wool garments and lots of hippies sell jewelry on the streets.
• The Spitting Llama Bookstore and Outfitter has a huge book exchange, lots of maps, free tourist info, and new Lonely Planet guidebooks. They also sell and rent a full range of camping and travel gear. They are open 7 days a week 09:00-19:00. English is spoken. +591 2-2599073

What

The one and only culinary speciality is trucha, or salmon trout, fished from the lake. Practically every single restaurant serves it, and there's a long row of identical stalls on the beach. Many places also serve pizza and pasta, presumably for those who've had enough (or don't like) fish. The regular price for trucha is Bs. 25 including trimmings, but that can easily be bargained down to Bs. 20.

Where

• Near the central market, they sell trucha with rice and potatoes in the evening (from 18.00) from a stall for Bs. 13.
• El Condor and the Eagle Cafe, Av. 6 de Agosto is a Bolivian-Irish owned cafe, probably the best place in town to have a coffee and breakfast. Free Wi-Fi. It is inside Residencial Paris. Open M-F from 07:00 to 13:30.
• Pueblo Viejo, Av. 6 de Agosto. They have a real espresso machine. Friendly and helpful (free tour guide!) English-speaking owner. Live music at nights.
• Pachamama, Av. 6 de Agosto
• Mankha Uta, Av. 6 de Agosto
• Kala Uta, Av. 6 de Agosto
• Sujna Wasi, Av. Jaregui
• La Nimbo

• Kota KauhañaThe most expensive restaurant in town and dinner is under US$10.

• Cafe Bistrót

  address: Av 6 de agosto
  Very tasty Bolivian-International fusion food. Amazing Thai Curry. Owned by the friendly Bolivian Fatima who speaks French, English and Spanish.

Many places, especially along the beach side, are available to enjoy the sunset having a cold beer or nice wine.

Reservations are barely necessary in Copacabana, walking into ho(s)tels can give you great discounts over Internet prices of up to 50%. In addition, it will give you the chance to see the place live and not just through polished up photos online. Should it turn to be high season, you can still opt for some WiFi and reserve online.

Budget

Av. 6 de Agosto has enough hostels and inexpensive hotels to accommodate hordes of backpackers.

• Hospedaje Aroma, Jáuregui & Destacamento. Basic but seriously cheap. Try to get a room on the top floor, the views there are great. Price Bs. 15 per person (Oct 2014), just room, not even an electric socket. Use of shower is Bs. 5 extra. Luggage storage only up to noon on the check-out date. No choice of rooms.
• Hospedaje Las Playas, Near the dock on 6 Agosto, next to KM Zero Restaurant & Bar. Twin room Bs. 15 per person with hot shower and Wi-Fi (limited time, expect no more than 2 hr a day, and you have to tell them to switch on the Router whenever you want it). Lumpy beds and the shared bathroom smells sometimes. Good for the extreme backpacker with a low budget. (Oct 2014)

• Hostal SoniaCheap, but some showers are bad and lack hot water. Trucks and buses cruise by at all hours, always honking to make the turn around the hostel. Wi-Fi (20 Mbs) available in the rooms. You can negotiate the rates very easily.

• Hostal Central, new hotel on plaza Sucre. Comfortable and clean. Double with private bathroom for Bs. 70 (May 2012).
• Hostal Elida, at the corner of Junin and Vallivan. Great alternative in quiet area. One block off from the Cathedral (away from the lake). Large and bright rooms. Run by friendly and helpful family with cat and dog. From Bs. 30 with private bathroom. There's no heating and no insulation.
• Hostel Arco Iris, Half way between Plaza Sucre and Plaza 2 de Febrero on Avenida 6 de Agosto, Restaurant with good food. One night cost between Bs. 20 (shared bathroom) and Bs. 30 (private bath). Internet connection by Wi-Fi in the restaurant and at 1st floor. On a trip to Isla del Sol, you can leave your heavy luggage for free at the hostel. However this hostel doesn't get only good reviews: there have been reports of disagreements and spats with the owner. Reports include owner blaming tourists for breaking already broken stuff in the hostel and charging them extra.
• "Residencial Paris", on the main tourist drag, a few meters up from the lake front. Clean, comfortable. Wi-Fi from 14:00-22:00. Bs. 30 per person shared toilet and Bs. 40 private. No breakfast included.

Mid-range

• Hotel Chasqui d'Oro

  phone: +591 2-862-2343
  address: Av. Costanera 55
  A grand-looking terraced hotel with a wonderful view of the lake.

• The Mirador

  address: Av. Busch esq. Costanera, Copacabana
  Every room has a beautiful view on the lake, but the matrimonial beds are a bit too small. Rooms are very big and clean, so is the bathroom. 1 min away from the main avenue. Wi-Fi si provided via 3G. The breakfast is continental with fruits, but may not be ready if you try to catch 08:30 boat. The staff could be more attentive. But with the price it is unbeatable."

• Hotel Wendy Mar

  phone: +591 2-862-2124
  address: Av 16 de Julio at corner of Calle Potosi #22
  Super friendly and helpful staff. Nice views directly west for sunset. Clean and modern rooms with cable TV.

• La Leyenda

  address: On the beachfront
  Beautifully decorated hostel, inside and out. The rooms are charming in a rustic sort of way, but some may consider overpriced for their condition. Try to get a room on the second or third floors, as the views (especially sunsets) are great. Comes with a simple continental style breakfast.

Splurge

• Hotel La Cupula

  phone: +591 2 862-2029
  La Cúpula is nestled on the hillside of lake Titicaca, a location, which overlooks both the lake and the Village of Copacabana. Calle Michel Perz 1-3. Singles from Bs. 75, heating, breakfast extra. Real hot showers.

• Hotel Rosario del LagoConsidered the best hotel in town. The modern hotel is designed in the local contemporary style and decorated in traditional Bolivian textiles. Every room has a view of the Lake and the hotel includes a small museum and the top restaurant, Kota Kauhaña.

• Internet is among the most expensive in the country at Bs. 6-8 an hour. There are a couple of internet cafes in town, but the connections are slow. The cheapest cafe in town is right across the market at Bs. 4/hr.
• Most hotels, hostels and tourist oriented cafes and restaurants have free Wi-Fi at acceptable speed.

Bolivia Weekly has English language news on Bolivia and Copacabana.

• Isla del Sol – There's hardly any point in going to Copacabana without a trip here. Boats leave around 08:30 for full day tours with stops at the north and south of the island. Half day tours are also available in the afternoons, typically visiting just the south.

But since most tourist rush to the island after arriving and travel on to either La Paz or Peru, the town itself is pretty quiet during most of the day and makes it a nice place to chill out for a while.

• Yampupata – Walk all the way incl. Cerro Pucara. It's about 17 km or 4-5 hours, along a dirt road with a few ups and downs and very little traffic. The scenery on the way is superb. If you don't want to continue to Isla del Sol, it can be kind of hard to arrange transport back. A better option is probably to go there by car/bus/truck and return on foot. This also brings the advantage of walking with the sun mostly in your back. You can also camp near the lake (bring warm sleeping bag and cloths depending of the time of year) and head back the next day or further to Isla del Sol by local boat.
• Puno – There are three daily buses for Bs. 30.