Copenhagen/Østerbro
Understand
Along with Frederiksberg in the west, Østerbro has long been considered the posh or upper class district of Copenhagen. These days this is mainly due to the demographic of young, liberal leaning, well paid academics, which has earned Østerbro nicknames like the Latté district and 2100 Spelt. But it has been a neighborhood of the upper middle class since modern Østerbro's inception, when Copenhagen expanded beyond the old fortifications in the 1850s.
The district takes it name from being near the old eastern gate of the city, and translates roughly into the Eastern borough, and before the city's defenses were dismantled, the area were largely dominated by grazing cows and grassy meadows, traces of which is still visible in the huge park; Fælledparken, dominating the area. When Copenhagen was finally allowed to grow out over the ramparts following a cholera epidemic, Østerbro was not build up as quickly and disorganized as its neighbours Nørrebro and Vestebro, and it was mainly the bourgeoisie who moved here in pompous villas in green surroundings, a heritage which has stuck to the district, many of the mansions still stand today, and a lot of them are occupied by foreign embassies. When development finally took hold at the turn of the century, it was better planned, and more upscale than its counterparts, and with its big apartments and nicely crafted ornamented buildings. Even the construction of a new and dirty harbor by the waterfront and new factories could not quite take the bourgeoisie aura away from the district, something it has retained to this day. And while Østerbro is still trailing behind Frederiksberg and its posh northern neighbour, Hellerup in terms of wealthy residents, visitors should still expect it to be fashionable, rather than "hip" or "cool", but watch out for the swarms of expensive prams parading the neighbourhood!
Get in
By train
Østerbro is served both by the S-train suburban services that are grouped together through the central part of Copenhagen, as well as several regional lines that terminate on Østerbro's main station; Østerport. All S-Train lines except line F stop at the three S-stations on Østerbro: Østerport, , and Svanemøllen, while lines A and F also have stops on station in the northern part of Østerbro. Svanemøllen and Ryparken stations are in Zone 2, so a northbound ticket might be cheaper from those.By bus
- 1A Starts at Avedøre station in the western Copenhagen, and runs through all major areas of downtown before entering Østerbro at Esplanaden close to the Kastellet citadel. From here the next stops are at Østerport station and Trianglen before running along Østerbro's main street — Østerbrogade, to Svanemøllen station. The line terminates at Hellerup station.
- 3A This line does a half loop around downtown. Starting on Nordhavn station, and stopping at Trianglen, Rigshospitalet (the National hospital) and Panum university campus, before entering the Nørrebro district.
- 4A Begins at Svanemøllen station, and services the northern part of the district, before it crosses Lersøpark Allé to enter the Nørrebro district. It loops all around the city center, to terminate on Amager.
- 6A Starts in the suburb of Rødøvre west of Copenhagen, and passes the central station in downtown, before it enters Østerbro by the lakes with stops at the Rigshospitalet, the medical faculty of Copenhagen University, and the Jagtvej/Tagensvej intersection, before it enters the North-West district and continues north.
- 150S Starts at Nørreport station in downtown, and runs through Østerbro with stops at the Rigshospitalet, Frederik Bajers Plads, The Østerbro university campus, and Ryparken station before continuing north along the highway to Kokkedal in northern Zealand.
By boat
- Canal tours Green line is waterbus that starts in the famous Nyhavn canal downtown, and stops at some of Østerbro's main attractions: the Little Mermaid, Langelinie, and Trekroner fortresses (summer only). Tickets are 60 Kr for a single journey, and 75 Kr for a one day ticket. Runs between 10:00-17:30
- The Arriva-operated 901 & 902 water buses are part of the public transportation system, and start at Nordre Toldbod, near the southern entrance of Kastellet, from where they cruise the inner harbour towards downtown. Prices and tickets are the same as on other buses and trains, but only if you use Rejsekortet or already have a valid ticket.
Get around
You can reach most of Østerbro by foot, but as almost everywhere in Copenhagen, biking is really the best mode of transport.
Bus 1A runs every 5 minutes and stops close to most attractions and places to eat and drink.
Østerbro is the area of all of Denmark that has the fewest parking spaces relative to the number of cars owned by residents, so it can be difficult to find a place to park a car after 16:00. And if you do find a place to park your car, think twice about using it if you will be returning in the evening.
See
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phone: +45 35 43 14 08Brumleby is a small quarter nestled in a triangle between Trianglen square and the National Stadium. It was built in the 1850s by the Danish Medical Association, as answer to a recent cholera epidemic, as a showcase on how to make healthy but affordable housing for the working class. It has been awarded Europa Nostra award for conservation, and it is a nice place for a brief stroll if you are in the area.
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address: Brumleby 134 (block N)Small museum in the old cooperative shop and library. It is run by volunteers living in Brumleby and they are happy to tell you everything about the museum and Brumleby.
Kastellet
Den lille Havfrue
Nyboder MindestuerThis mini-district was built in the 17th century, and consists of long rows of beautiful 2 story yellow brick buildings. It was built to house sailors from the Navy, as it was useful to have sailors in the fleet living in a confined space, so they could quickly be called to duty. Today the houses are still owned and managed by the Danish Defence, although servicemen from all three branches are allowed to rent a flat. All streets except for two are named after animals. On Sankt Pauls Gade 24, Nyboder mindestuer showcases everyday life in the neighborhood from its inception in 1631, every Sunday between 11AM-2PM.
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phone: +45 38 25 44 44This 18th century fort was built to guard the sea approach to Copenhagen's harbor in 1786. It has a special atmosphere, and some gorgeous views over Øresund. There are several well preserved military buildings and fortifications. A restaurant and a café have been opened in a newly renovated building. The only access is via Canal Tour's green hop on hop off route (summer only).
Museums
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phone: +45 33 12 28 03address: Oslo Plads 3This art exhibition was established in 1891, as a protest against a censored exhibition sponsored by the royal art board — hence the name. Mainly shows contemporary art. The exhibition is housed in a remarkable, recently restored building that resembles an ancient Greek temple.
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phone: +45 35 42 03 36address: Stockholmsgade 20This collection was founded by the Copenhagen-born tobacco manufacturer Heinrich Hirschsprung (1836-1908), and moved into the current museum after his death in 1911. The museum hosts an impressive collection of Danish 19th-century art in a beautiful building displaying furniture from the artists homes.
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phone: +45 35 32 22 22address: Universitetsparken 15This museum is run by the University of Copenhagen. In the exhibitions, you can experience how the fauna changes as you travel from the North Pole to the South Pole, the Danish fauna since the Ice Age, including a 3 meters tall mammoth and the animals of the great oceans. The latest progress in science is brought to life in some very good temporary exhibitions.
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phone: +45 33410900address: Øster Alle 1So far only stage one of the new telecommunications museum is implemented. Which means that there is exactly one item on display, an old rusty Enigma machine. But it is free and they have a nice cafe and a museum shop with lots of expensive modern design. So if you are in the area it is worth a visit.
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Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK)
phone: +45 33 74 84 94address: Sølvgade 48-50Seven hundred years of Western art and cultural history lie under the roof of this striking Italian Renaissance building, which is itself situated in a nice park. Blockbusters include: Titian, Rembrandt, Picasso, Leger, Matisse and Emil Nolde. An array of other icons, paintings and sculptures are also on display.
Do
FiskerihavnenLocated on the eastern tip of Nordhavn (North harbour). Because of the traffic on Øresund, commercial fishing is not allowed. But the amateur fishermen at Fiskerihavnen can fish from their small fishing boats. The fishermen have tiny sheds, all different, a bit messy, but colorful. To get there you have to zig-zag past Frihavnen (Freeport, closed to the public), mountains of containers, scrap metal, interesting industries. Bus 26 goes there. There is a store that sell fishing equipment, but also ice cream and cold beers. "Krølle" sells smoked herring and salmon from his 1914 boat, "Kællingen".
FælledparkenFæleldparken is the big park behind the football stadium, the largest in Copenhagen. There is a lake, big trees and a pavilion with a cafe which hosts concerts during the summer, the outfit Salsa Brava also gives Salsa lessons in the park during the summer. Most of it is covered with grass, much of it marked as football fields. Go there for a game of football or another game, a picnic, or just lie in the grass. At May 1st, during the International Workers day, most of Copenhagen's population comes here in a peculiar mix of a political rally, and a seriously huge party.
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phone: +45 35 42 83 62address: Serridslevvej 2Krudttønden is a cultural venue in Østerbro, with a mix of both concerts and theatrical performances, by both national and internationals acts. Also has a small café, that sometimes hosts various events.
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phone: +45 35 32 52 09address: Blegdamsvej 17If you are a physicist or just interested in physics, come to the Institute and see the room of Niels Bohr with photos of the staff of the institute when he was the head of it, a model of the famous thought experiment weighing the clock, the archive, the photos of all the famous people who were developing the quantum theory during the so-called "golden age of physics, when even small people could do big things" and also the modern part of the institute. The people at the archive are willing to show the institute to other people, if they are not too busy.
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phone: +45 35 38 33 62address: Østerbrogade 79The only cinema on Østerbro, has an atmospheric lobby with tall plants, caged birds, and a café. Plays many Danish and European movies.
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Watch football at
phone: +45 35 43 31 31address: Øster Allé 50This 35,000 seat stadium is the home ground of FC Copenhagen, who play in Danish Superliga, the top tier of football in the country. Denmark's international home games are also played here and the stadium will host Euro 2020 matches. The stadium hosts major concerts, and has a gym, bowling alley and a pool.
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phone: +45 35 25 70 60address: Gunnar Nu Hansens Plads 3Pool, spa, aroma-bath, steam bath, and baby pool are all hosted in a beautifully restored 1929 building, somewhat resembling a Roman bath, topped with a large glass roof. It was the first public pool in build in the country.
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phone: +45 39 27 71 77address: Nyborggade 17This theatre is located in a remarkable old gas storage container. Mainly hosts musicals but also has plays and comedy on the program.
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address: Strandpromenadennew beach with a 130meter pier
Buy
Due to the young and rather wealthy demographic, there are many small stores catering the local crowd with designer clothes and home décor. There are also several small galleries and antique stores. These are mainly located on the main drags: Østerbrogade, Nordre Frihavnsgade and their side streets. On Saturdays year round there is an organic farmers market, Bondens Marked, on Jakobs Plads (Østebrogade). Groceries can be bought in MENY' on Østerfælled Square which hosts a good delicatessen and a bakery. The Irma supermarket at Østerport station is convenient for travellers.
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Flea Market
address: Gunnar Nu Hansens Plads -
address: Langeliniekajis a long shopping arcade, located on a promenade along the harbor, where the gigantic cruise ships dock. Several cafes, outlet stores, and souvenir shops (mainly catering to foreigners and cruise guests) have been beautifully fitted into the old stone bulwark. The ice cream stores at the end of the promenade are immensely popular with the locals during the summer.
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phone: +45 35 38 70 78address: Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 40This is actually 3 stores located next to each other, and there is nothing here but the most unerringly stylish, minimal, eco-conscious women's clothing and shoes.
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phone: +45 35 55 44 59address: Østerbrogade 70As hip as they come housewares, clothing, and accessories by up-and-coming designers which the owners takes pride in, and are renowned for spotting both locally and all around the world. The store is housed in an old theatre and is easily one of the best places for shopping design items in the city.
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phone: +45 39 16 65 65address: Kalkbrænderiløbskaj 2This store offers one of Denmark's largest selection of high quality furniture, carpets, lighting, and accessories designed exclusively for Paustian by Danish designers and Architects. The store is housed in a building designed by world famous architect Jørn Utzon, of Sydney Opera house fame.
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phone: +45 35 26 30 07address: Østerbrogade 55AA small design boutique fitted into an old communal bathing institution, sells both new and old furniture, kitchenwares, electronics from a host of national and (mostly) international designers and design bureaus.
Eat
Budget
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Crazy Chicken
phone: +45 35 26 41 42address: Rosenvængets Allé 1This small place mainly serves as a take away place, but also has two tables available for a quick bite. Dishes out some excellent sandwiches and has menus with different sorts of chicken - as the name might imply - served with the option of several different Mediterranean inspired salads from a buffet (you get to choose 2) and/or potatoes.
There are some reasonable priced restaurants at the sailing clubs in Svanemøllen Harbour. For example:
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phone: +45 39 29 30 35address: SvaneknoppenLocated on the pier with a great view this place caters to sailors and passersby who just come to breathe in the harbor scene and ocean air. Kitchen is mainly Danish cuisine.
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Restauranten, Sejlklubben Frem
phone: +45 39 29 33 85address: Strandvænget 65Inexpensive restaurant in the sailing club with a more private atmosphere. Barbecue in the summer.
Mid-range
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phone: +45 35271516address: Hjørringgade 12CCafe/restaurant in one of the rare big rooms on Østerbro, for both your pocket, taste buds and your health. In the summer you can eat outside in the huge courtyard. Good selection of beer and wine, or you can try the fresh smoothies and lemonades.
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phone: +45 70404052address: Århusgade 48Cocktail bar and french/italian food. The friendly waiter can suggest a cocktail to go with your steak.
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phone: +45 35 27 63 00address: Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 38This café/restaurant is one of the first to open on Østerbro. The place offer early breakfast, brunch, a large and varied lunch menu. At the evening it transform into a restaurant where you can get a 3-course meal, their special Country Style Dish or try out their famous burger. Also a great place for a well made espresso, cocktail and they have much to offer on their wine menu. Last, many of the dishes you can also order to-go and get a discount. Main course from 195 Kr.
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phone: +45 35 42 48 45address: Sortedams Dossering 101This café has outdoor tables by the lake under trees and coloured lanterns. The menu is mostly café classics like filled croissants, nachos, chilli con carne, pasta, burgers, but during the summer there is barbecue available until the late hours.
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phone: +45 39 27 10 00address: Rosenvængets Allé 7AOriginally and in essence this is a high-end organic butchery, but an ever growing popularity with locals have prompted the owners to branch out, and offer a Brunch, Lunch and a evening "Dish of the Day", centred around their high quality meat from organic farms. Thursdays-Saturdays (17.50-midnight) they transform the place into a restaurant labeled Gourmanderiet by Night, and dish out fantastic steaks of every variety.
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phone: +45 35 42 39 64address: Victor Borges Plads 12Is a good, low key, Italian trattoria style restaurant. The menu varies greatly but if you can get hold of the Risotto, it is a treat. Otherwise go for one of the excellent pasta dishes. The Wine is very reasonably priced (for Copenhagen), and the staff is informal, but still attentive.
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phone: +45 35 43 29 28address: Ryesgade 90Good, though not outstanding, food at reasonable prices from the Italian and French kitchens, is made even more tolerable by the fact that you can freely bring your own wine and beer to enjoy with your food. Staff is relaxed in both the best and worst way, readily engaging in a hearty chat, but not terribly efficient.
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Østerbros Originale Burgerrestaurant
phone: +45 3311 3304address: Østerbrogade 74One of the three burger restaurants on Østerbro, all located at Trianglen. The other two are Halifax and Cocks and Cows. -
phone: +45 35427868address: Østerbrogade 89If you get tired of Danish food, this Thai restaurant offers good food in a relaxed atmosphere at reasonable prices.
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phone: +45 34 10 01 01address: Melchiors Plads 3Vegetarian restaurant
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phone: +45 35264200address: Århusgade 1Informal french food at reasonable prices.
Splurge
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phone: +45 69 96 00 20address: P.H. Lings Alle 4Reopened in new surroundings by chef Rasmus Kofoed who won the 2011 Bocuse d'Or, and is one of the best chefs in the world. The restaurant got three Michelin stars in 2016. The restaurant is along with Noma at the forefront of the revolution in Nordic cuisine that is current waging on. Danish newspapers and guides all agree; if you want to sample local gourmet, this is a very good place to be seated.
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phone: +45 35 42 77 07address: Sankt Jakobs Plads 1Very French kitchen — brasserie style with white walls, candlelights, Russian icons and more religious symbols than your average church. With the quirky décor, good wines, and the style of the buildings on the square, it does not take much effort to imagine yourself in Paris when dining here.
Drink
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phone: +45 35 43 05 66address: Bopa Plads 1A café during daylight, this place morphs into a crowded bar with DJs spinning records during the weekends. Relaxed atmosphere and great for socializing
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phone: +45 39 30 03 05address: Løgstørgade 2hands some reasonably priced cocktails (a flat 65 Kr) over the counter, Outdoor seating on the small square, and Brunch, Lunch, Tapas and an evening menu if you want to fill up your stomach before indulging. Pixie is the name for a series of well know children's books, and the owners have kept true to the name with pretty neat colorful childish interiors.
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phone: +45 35 27 63 00address: Dag Hammarskjölds Alle 36Located on a small square, colloquially known as the little Triangle, this cafe is popular for its huge outdoor serving area, at the end of the lakes, it is a bit overpriced, but the coffee is top-notch and they have a decent collection of Danish and foreign beers.
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phone: +45 39 29 92 00address: Færgehavnsvej 35With a huge outdoor area and an artificial beach, it is perfect for chilling on warm days. But they also house a restaurant, and the two large raw industrial storage buildings, houses exhibitions and concerts all summer long.
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phone: +45 35 26 86 38Cafe with extensive whiskey menu, Kruts absinth, good beers, and sandwiches.
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phone: +45 61724487address: Østerbrogade 122Small cosy place that has 10 interesting beers on tap and make good cocktails.
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Bubbles
address: Århusgade 14Champange and cocktail bar -
Strandlyst
phone: +45 27207169address: Nygårdsvej 1Old-fashioned brown danish bar with cheap beers, a digital jukebox, dice-games. But non-smoking.
Sleep
Hotels
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phone: +45 31686245address: Ryesgade 115This is a small local boutique hotel with a cozy atmosphere serving homemade organic breakfast, feels like a real apartment.
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phone: +45 70 12 46 46address: Oslo Plads 5really central with most trains in and out of Copenhagen just a minute away, direct trains to the airport, it is close to most of Østerbro's main attractions, and right at the outskirts of downtown.
Apartment rentals
Private apartment rentals and semi-bed & breakfasts are by large the main type of accommodations on Østerbro. These are often spacious and classic apartments from the 19th century, with high, decorated ceilings, and huge windows facing the street—as is the norm on Østerbro.Connect
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Østerbro Post office
phone: +45 80 20 70 30address: Øster Allé 1Offers the normal range of postal services, as well as Western Union transfers, currency exchange, and selling tickets for concerts plays etc. nationwide. -
phone: +45 35 38 16 48address: Dag Hammarskjölds Alle 19Has 11 computers available for internet surfing, it is possible to book a PC online at library's website.
Cope
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phone: +45 35 55 60 20address: Århusgade 38Along with its sister cafe on Nørrebro, this bar and café is a perfect match for a traveler. Combining a coin laundromat with a café where you can sit and enjoy a coffee, beer, lunch or brunch, while reading one of the 3000 paperback titles or abusing the free wireless internet, and waiting for your laundry to finish.
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phone: +45 35 45 35 45address: Blegdamsvej 9Although the largest and most important Hospital in the country, this hospital's ER only takes in patients arriving by ambulance, or referred by a doctor. This is due to large number of patients preferring to be hospitalized here, rather than one of the other Copenhagen Hospitals. Should you require hospitalization, patients on Østerbro are referred to Bispebjerg hospital in the North-West district.
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phone: +45 35 38 32 00address: Nordre Frihavnsgade 3Large and well stocked chemist.