Copenhagen/Northern suburbs
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The Northern suburbs is a green suburban district north of Copenhagen. The ghetto of the wealthy, the Whiskey belt; the nicknames are many, and the Northern suburbs is indeed home to most of the city's well off population, but to casual visitors the difference may be subtle, due to the high income equality of Denmark and heavy taxation of the highest earners (up to 69%). The district does however have more than its fair share of royal mansions, meticulously kept parks and golf courses.
Understand
The industrialization had another lasting impact on the district, as the earliest factories in the country shot up around the Mølleå River using water power to power the mills producing paper, weapons and textiles. But since steam power was introduced only a short time after these factories were built, development turned to back the city, and the area has been superbly preserved and is still surrounded by green forests, and amazingly most of old mills and factories still stand as they did when they were closed down in 19th century.
In the 1970s the old villages were joined together by huge patches of suburbia, the old village houses turning into residences for the wealthiest, and the suburbia occupied by the upper middle class, and bar a couple of minor exceptions, the area have become notoriously well off. The most interesting areas are without doubt the old Lyngby and along the Øresund coast, whereas the rest is mainly residential with little interest to travellers.
Get in
The area north of Copenhagen is served by 4 S-train lines, the western area which offer little in the way of attractions are served by lines H/C (towards Frederiksund) and A (Farum). The area to the east where the attractions are centred are served by lines E/B (Holte & Lyngby) and line C (Klampenborg) which runs parallel the coast. For access to the Dyrehaven forest and the amusement park it is also possible, and faster, to take regional kystbanen line (the coastal railway), as it has fewer stops - but be careful as some trains skip Klampenborg station.
All the S-train lines runs every 10 minutes throughout the day and every 20 minutes in the evening. the kystbanen runs every 6–14 minutes for most of the day, in the weekends and after 8PM the service is cut back to every 20 minutes. It takes approximately 15 minutes to get to Hellerup and 20 minutes to get to Klampenborg and Lyngby, the 3 main attraction areas.
By car
There are two highways leading north of city Helsingørmotorvejen (route 19) starts on Østerbro, and runs north roughly halfway between the E/B (Holte) and C (Klampenborg) S-Train lines, just west of the Dyrehaven park to Lyngby and onwards to Elsinore. Hillerødmotorvejen (route 16) starts on the outer part of Nørrebro and runs north approximately half way between the A (Farum) and H/C (Ballerup) S-Train lines to Farum, and onwards to Hillerød. Motorring 3 is an orbital highway around Copenhagen, and connects to the two highways. Strandvejen runs all the way along the Øresund coast to Charlottenlund, Klampenborg and further north.Get around
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The center of Lyngby is walkable. For a physically fit visitor it is also possible to walk to Frilandsmuseet by following the main street. Alternatively to walk to Sophienholm or Dyrehavsbakken. Though these are several kilometers away, you may walk in the green surroundings of the Dyrehaven forest, but it would much for feasible as an enjoyable bike trip. Unlike the central part of the city, it actually does make sense to have your own wheels in the northern suburbs, as some of the attractions, restaurants and hotels are a bit out of the way of bus transportation, which while perfectly feasible, has relatively infrequent departures in the district.
- Taxi. Taxis are usually lined up at the train stations of Klampenborg and Lyngby, until late in the evening.
- Taxinord, +45 45 83 83 83, is the local taxi company of the area.
By train
The main mode of transport for locals is the S-trains, and while they are useful getting to and from the city center, they are not that useful to tourists as a way to get around, as they mainly cater to commuters going downtown.Nærumbanen is a modern light rail line between Lyngby &
Nærum, but it wasn't always so. It was originally built to serve the booming industries along the Mølleå river, at the turn of the 20th century. Besides being the best most of transport to reach
Frilandsmuseets eastern entrance, Brede Works (at Brede station) and the other mills along the river, it is quite scenic as it runs along the river in a forested area. It is colloquially known as "Grisen" or The Pig in English, from the loud squeaky horn the old trains used to use frequently when crossing paths and roads.
By bus
In the Copenhagen suburbs public transportation is built around the railway network. Almost every bus line begins at a Station, and will usually also end at one. Due to Copenhagen's finger based structure, transportation is centred around lines going to and from the inner city, and jumping between the fingers can be an unusually cumbersome. Below is a section of the most useful buslines in the area.- 169 & 179 runs the same ring route, but in opposite directions. And will get you between Lyngby & Charlottenlund stations, but it is rather slow and it may be quicker to take the s-trains to Hellerup and change to the C line to go back north.
- 191 Is the only option to get to the canoe rental places, and sights in Nybro and Frederiksdal. It runs twice an hour most of the day between Lyngby and Sorgenfri station.
- 388 is the best option for transportation between the two main attraction areas of Lyngby and Klampenborg, it stops at both stations, and runs along the border of Dyrehaven, but remember to check the schedule as it is fairly infrequent with only 2 departures per hour.
- 400S Is the best option between Lyngby, Farum and Ballerup. There is no direct connection to Farum, so you'll have to switch to the S-Train in at Bagsværd station, and take the train onwards to Farum, or stay on the bus to go to Ballerup.
By boat
Baadfarten. has been sailing passengers onthe Mølleå canal as well as Furesø, Bagsværd and Lyngby lakes, in their
famous and charming white boats, for more than 100 years. Besides being an excellent way to see the sights in Frederiksdal and Nybro, it is a popular excursion in itself. It is the oldest of the 6 ferries sailing; Princes Alexandrine and Prince Christian were built in between 1896-1896, and thus dating back to the beginning. It used to be driven by steam but has been modified several times and now uses a diesel engine.
The usual starting point is from the pier in Lyngby, not to far from the station and departs approx. every 40 minutes between 10:00-17:00 during summer (early June - mid August), from May to the end of September there is also services on weekends on the stretch between Frederiksdal and Sorgenfrivej. There are 3 regular routes.
- Lyngby - Nybro - Bagsværd
- Lyngby - Nybro - Frederiksdal
- Frederiksdal - Furesøbad (Farum)
On Sundays there are also an additional service connecting Frederiksdal, Birkerød and Holte on the Furesø lake. Tickets are between 35-40 kr, and a full day ticket can be bought for 110 kr. The routes are plotted on the map.
See
The sights in this district is mainly suitable for warm summer days, and for visitors with a historical interest, but if those two prerequisites are met a visit here can be incredibly rewarding. Bring your bike on the train though, or bring your patience as the main attractions are located far apart, and public transportation links in the area leaves a bit to be desired. And in the not unlikely event of poor weather, there is still a world class art museum to browse through without getting wet.
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phone: +45 44 97 11 13address: Pederstrupvej 51, BallerupA small idyllic village outside Ballerup, only made up of a few old thatched roof houses. The museum is housed in 4 of these buildings, with some exhibitions of local history. In another of the old houses Grantoftegård is a ecological farm with a nice restaurant, and a shop with bio-products made on the farm.
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phone: +45 33 13 44 11address: I.C. Modewegs Vej, LyngbyGuided tours of this complex from industrialization of Denmark. It is a rare display of a preserved full industrial complex from the 18th century, with both the works, homes of workers and leaders, the dining hall, garden and the rich factory owners home to put it all in context. Easily combined with a visit to Frilandsmuseet.
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phone: +45 33 47 38 55address: Kongevejen 100, LyngbyThis open air museum covers a huge green area between Kongevejen and the Mølleå river, in fact it is one of the world's largest museums in terms of area covered. It houses more than 50 authentic relocated historical farms, houses, and windmills, and sometimes live activities like making butter are performed inside the houses. If your feet gets sore, there are horse drawn carriages to take you around for a fee. Guided tours during Sundays. There are also some good picnic spots and a restaurant.
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phone: +45 72 35 61 00address: Stavnsholtvej 3This is a string of 4 museums housed in old historic buildings, 3 of them in the small village of Stavsholt. There is one permanent exhibition on Stavnsholtvej 170, which is the immigration museum, showcasing stories about the lives of individual immigrants through the times. The other 3 properties centers around local history, and have shifting art exhibitions as well as local history.
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phone: +45 45 80 08 78address: Attemosevej 170, Holte18th-century palace turned exhibition space, with many good art exhibitions usually on schedule (check their website). Also has a beautiful French inspired baroque garden with arcades, fountains and an embroidery parterre.
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phone: +45 45 88 43 83address: Lyngby Hovedgade 24AThis is a functioning museum water mill, which also houses Exhibitions about Mølleåen, and the industrial development connected to it. It is a good idea to call ahead, and get a tour since its openings hours seems a bit random.
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phone: +45 39 62 14 67address: Tuborgvej 67, HellerupMindelunden is a memorial park in Hellerup where the Danish freedom fighters who died in World War II are buried. The park has among other things a memorial wall, tombs for the victims of the KZ-camps and a shooting range which the Germans used for execution.
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phone: +45 39 64 11 83address: Vilvordevej 100, CharlottenlundOne of Denmark's top art museums, featuring paintings of Monet, Renoir, Dega, Pissarro, Gauguin, Hammershøi, Philipsen, and L.A.Ring. The museum is placed in a nice park, and has been extended with a striking building by the famous architect Zaha Hadid.
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phone: +45 45 88 40 07address: Nybrovej 401Is an old manor situated with a nice view over the lakes. There is a restaurant, a small art museum and there is a large garden with an outdoor stage. A nice alternative to the directions given above, is to take the baadfarten ferry's during the summer to the museums own pier.
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address: Kongevejen 8, LyngbyWhile the inside of this palace and its inner garden is not open to the public, since it is one of the active royal properties, it still lends grace to the surrounding park, which is quit pleasant, and a good place for a stop if you are touring Mølleåen river.
BrønshøjThe suburb Brønshøj is a village dating back to the early middle ages. It is reached by bus 2A, 5A or 350S all stopping at Brønshøj Torv (square). Close by the square is the church from the 12th century, the oldest building still in use is Copenhagen. Brønshøj served as the head quarter for the Swedish army during the attack on Copenhagen in 1659. Many street names between Brønshøj Torv and Bellahøj are named in memory of the war (Svenskelejren - 'the Swedish camp' and Svend Gønges vej). As of Sep 2019, Brønshøj Museum is under reconstruction.
See also Lyngby Tourist Information, Lyngby Torv 5, 45 88 66 16.
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phone: +45 44 98 41 41address: Taxvej 14-16, 2880 BagsværdChurch from 1976 by world famous Danish architect Jørn Utzon. Especially the interior is striking.
Garderhøj FortA late 19th-century fort. The inside is only open on weekends and holidays, but the outside can be viewed at any time.
Do
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phone: +45 39 63 64 00address: Strandvejen 451, KlampenborgStage by the Øresund coast, with a wide range of performances, from international ballet companies over comedy to conventional plays. Lists international performances, relevant for foreign visitors, on the English version of their website.
DyrehavenA forest park north of Copenhagen. It covers around 11 km². The northern boundary is at Jægersborg Hegn (Forest), which until 1832 was part of Dyrehaven. Eremitageslottet is a small royal hunting castle placed on a hilltop in the northern part of the area. There are several event's taking place here throughout the year, The Hubertus hunt the 1st Sunday of November is a huge sporting event with hundreds of "hunters" in red jackets on horseback. While the erimetage running event, the largest in the country, takes place on the 1st Sunday of October. There are also sometimes theatrical performances in the Ulvedalene (Valley of wolfs, do not worry they are long gone) - check with a tourist information for details.
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phone: +45 45876058address: Ved Fortunen 33Rent a pony to ride in Dyrehaven. If you have small children, you can rent tiny ponys, that the children can ride, while you are walking the ponys.
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phone: +45 39 63 35 44address: Dyrehavevej 62, KlampenborgThe world's oldest intact surviving amusement park, and has a reputation for being more folksy than its downtown rival, Tivoli. While the number of rides are hardly impressive, except for the large wooden "Rutchebanen" (lit. the rollercoaster) which dominates the park, the atmosphere it gets from the surrounding forest is quite enchanting, and the many old and very traditional pubs and restaurants is the real attraction of the place.
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phone: +45 39 27 33 33address: Tuborg Havnevej 7, HellerupExcellent "hands-on" science museum for kids of all ages. Rich with activities centered around nature and technology, and does wonders teaching complex subject easily through self experimentation. Has changing themed exhibitions (check website for current ones).
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phone: +45 39 96 02 13address: Klampenborgvej 52One of the most beautiful gallop runways in the world. Right at the border, and with great views over, the Dyrehaven park. A few restaurants, a grill with excellent fresh grilled sausages, etc., and a picnic area. When there are races on Fridays, it is a good place to go for some beers while watching the races.
Prepare
It is a good idea to call one of the rental places ahead as there is
regulations in place limiting the number of canoes available for rent,
it is also mandated to have life jackets for everyone on the canoe - your
rental place will supply these for free. It is a good idea to wear rubber boots, flip flops or other footwear that can stand getting wet. Remember to bring plenty of liquids, snacks and food as there are few places to stuck up supplies on route, and remember to bring one of the brochures with a map available for free at the rental place. Since you have to carry the canoe over a few roads at the old dams - you might want to shell out the 20 Kr extra for a set of wheels for the canoe.
Route
After Fursø lake, right next to Frederiksdal's canoe rental outfit, the first stop is the old Frederiksdal mill, the romantic yellow brick buildings, was a paper mill build in 1880. If this is your starting point, you will be paddling down the fortification canal; a part of a string of canals that were designed to flood the low lying areas north of Copenhagen, with water from Furesø lake if Copenhagen ever was to become besieged. On the northern side of the canal, Lyngby marshes is a protected area due to the unique natural environment. After crossing the large Lyngby lake and sailing under the train tracks, you will have to transport the canoe over a piece of land past the cute yellow Lyngby Mills.
Heading north you will have a nice view over Sorgenfri Palace on your left, before another carry at Fuglevad. Onwards you will sail along the Open Air Museum on your left, and a local railway on your right, which used to carry workers to the mills. Next stop is Brede with the impressive Brede Works towering above the dammed lake. Here you once again need to carry the Canoe over the dam. Next dams (and carries) is at Ørholm and Nymølle, the long red building in Ørholm dates back to 1886, and along with mill in Nymølle, it was the centre of the Danish paper industry in the early days of Industrialisation. The forest towering on both sides of the river is nicknamed The Danish Switzerland due to the unusually hilly and steep terrain.
Just before reaching the Motorway bridge, the first sleeping option is the commercial camping grounds of Nærum Camping due north of the river. Continuing you will have around 30 minutes of sailing, before reaching the free rudimentary camping grounds of Stampen start looking for a parking lot on your right, a couple of bends after the water treatment plant. Onwards there is a short carry over Svenskevej road, before you reach the idyllic village of Raadvad in the middle of the Dyrehaven forest. Another industrial centre with an old inn that offers excellent dining (see Rådvad Kro), and a secluded hostel.
From here it is smooth sailing through the beautiful park or forest, until you reach Strandmøllen, a picturesque mill, and the only of the old mills that still houses production. Just north of the damn is another rudimentary camping ground, and right after the mill, you have reached the end of your journey, the water turns salty, as you have reached the Øresund coast.
Sleep
While it’s possible to sail the entire route in a day if you’re physically fit and hurried, It’s possible to overnight at several locations along the river, the offers range from primitive free campgrounds to hostels, and allow you to discover the river at more leisurely pace.
- Furesøens Teltplads – Primitive free campgrounds with a bonfire space.
- Nærum Campingplads see entry in sleep section
- Stampens Teltplads - Primitive free campgrounds with a bonfire space.
- Rådvad Vandrehjem see entry in sleep section
- Strandmøllens Teltplads Primitive free campgrounds with a bonfire space and running water
Mølleå River
The small river Mølleåen (literally Mill river) runs through the center of Lyngby near the church. It is possible to follow the river on foot or bike from Lyngby all the way to the sea (Øresund) through park and forest. But an even better option is to rent a Canoe or Kayak from one of places below and sail down the estuary from Frederiksdal or Nybro near Lyngby to the sea in Øresund.
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phone: +45 45 87 39 19address: Nybrovej 384, HolteHas both row boat, canoe and kayak rental during the summertime. offers pickup and delivery service for a minimum fee of 500 kr. This place is in the middle of the canal connecting Furesø and Lyngby sø lakes.
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Frederiksdal kano & bådudlejning
phone: +45 45 85 67 70address: Nybrovej 520, LyngbyCanoes, kayaks and row boat rentals, This is the outlet closest to Furesøen, Sophienholm and Hotel Frederiksdal. Also has pick up and delivery of Canoes for a minimum of 500 kr. -
phone: +45 45 93 93 69address: Rustenborgvej 21, LyngbyThis place poses a bit of dilemma, while it is by far the easiest place to get to with public transportation, since it is just a short walk from the S-train station, they do not offer pick up services if you plan to do longer trips. Also doubles as a restaurant.
Beaches
While the fancy new beaches in the inner harbour of downtown Copenhagen, are definitely more unique and conveniently located - The beaches along the Øresund coast dotted north along the Strandvejen road, following the coast, are where Copenhagerners used to make their escape from hot summer days in the city. And still on warm summer days you see hordes of cyclists making their way north, with towels sticking out their bags, as the inner city "beaches" doesn't quite offer the great green surroundings the northern beaches does.-
phone: +45 39 90 06 95address: Strandvejen 340, KlampenborgCopenhagen's own Copacabana, and probably the country's most famous beach, with half a million visitors per year. Wide (but packed on sunny days) sandy beach and a large grassy area. Toilets, ice cream kiosk, beach volleyball fields, and 3 piers.
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phone: +45 39 62 36 88address: Strandvejen 144, CharlottenlundNice beach with a huge grassy area for oozing in the sun, and a narrow strip of sand before the calm waves of Øresund. There is also a large pier with better facilities (Charlottenlund Søbad) but it has a 20 kr entrance fee. The old fortress behind the beach has a camping ground (see sleep section).
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phone: +45 20 10 02 90address: Frederiksborgvej 101, FarumAn artificial sand beach and marina in the Furesø lake, there are lifeguards stationed here during the season, and the restaurant has great view over the lake, and is a good option for a brunch if you are in the area. Also a small kiosk for ice cream, etc., and a pier for the baadfarten ferries.
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phone: +45 22 34 71 71address: Frederiksdal Badesti 1, VirumA cozy sand beach near the canoe rental place in Frederiksdal. It is kid friendly with lifeguards keeping watch. There is both shallow water for the kids, and a pier out to the deeper water in the Furesø Lake. Excellent spot for a picnic on the grassy areas and there is also a restaurant (see listing in eat section) and ice cream shop.
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Hellerup Strandpark
phone: +45 39 98 81 10address: Strandparksvej, HellerupThis small beach,marina and park is hidden away at the end of a residential street of Strandvejen street. While the beach here is not as good as the other beaches in the area, it is less crowded and closer to the city. The small marina is open to visiting yachts, and there is cluster of Tennis courts right behind it.
Events & festivals
The Hubertus huntA modern continuation of the traditional par force hunts that has been held in Dyrehaven park for hundreds of years, but the game have now been replaced by two riders wearing fox tails on their backs. It is an annual spectacle with almost 30,000 spectators watching the 50 odd riders wearing fancy deep red jackets, ride through a challenging course. Most of the spectators head straight for the Magasin dam, where the riders pass through a water obstacle, and 5-10 riders usually makes an involuntary but spectacular plunge into the freezing water. Takes place in late October or early November, contact a tourist information desk for details.
The Erimitage runThe world's oldest fun run, where 19,000 runners challenge themselves on a 13.3-km course through the beautiful Dyrehaven park, and have done so every year in early October since 1969. If you plan to attend it is a good idea to reserve a spot ahead as there is cap of 19,000 participants for logistical reasons and considerations for the wildlife in the park, Send an email to elob@ultimate.dk to secure yourself a place on the starting line.
- Midsummer night by Lyngby lake Midsummer night, is known in Denmark as Sankt Hans aften (St. John's Eve) and takes place on June 23 every year. It is celebrated with large bonfires to ward away evil spirits, which has been tradition since the Viking age. A more modern addition is to put a straw witch on the bonfire, and send her back to Bloksbjerg (a mountain in Germany). The bonfire at Folkets Park (by Viggo Stuckenbergs Vej) facing Lyngby Lake, is one of the most popular in the area, with many spectators, speeches and musical performances.
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Sports
- Lots of golf courses locally:
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phone: +45 39 63 04 83address: Dyrehaven 2, Lyngby
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phone: +45 44 47 21 28address: Christianshøjvej 22, Værløse
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phone: +45 45 80 17 84address: Brillerne 9, Holte
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Watch football ie soccer at
phone: +45 44 34 25 00address: Farum ParkThey play in Danish Superliga, the top tier of football in Denmark. The stadium, capacity 9800 and also known as "Right to Dream Park", is at the north edge of Farum.
- The other football team here is
Lyngby BoldklubThey play in Danish 1st Division, the second tier.
Learn
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Technical University of Denmark
phone: +4588 1746address: Anker Engelunds Vej 1 LyngbyA technical university in Lyngby north of Copenhagen. The educations are primarily engineering educations and the university is known for its social life.
Buy
Malls
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phone: +45 45 27 77 77address: Klampenborgvej 232, LyngbyA large shopping mall in central Lyngby, with more than 120 shops, restaurants and supermarkets over 34.100 m².
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phone: +45 45 88 44 33address: Lyngby Hovedgade 43, LyngbyThis smaller sibling of the famous department store on Kongens Nytorv, is across from Lyngby Storcenter, and is more of a classic department store, then it is more mall like competitor on the other side of the street.
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address: Tuborg Havnevej 4, HellerupShopping mall on the waterfront of the Tuborg area, near the Experimentarium museum. Mainly high-end shops.
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phone: +45 45 42 45 95address: Holte Midtpunkt 23, HolteMall in central Holte with speciality stores, two supermarkets and a library with internet access on the 3rd floor.
Shops
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phone: +45 39 62 30 10address: Strandvejen 179, Hellerup
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phone: +45 45 93 14 00address: Strandvejen 169B, Hellerup
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phone: +45 45 87 12 40address: Lyngby Hovedgade 23, LyngbyDanish book stores tend to be rather small, but this one a decent size and some English paperback titles available.
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phone: +45 39 61 19 44address: Callisensvej 2-4, Hellerup
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phone: +45 45 87 00 96address: Lyngby Hovedgade 27, LyngbyOne of four 24-hour chemists in the city, outside regular opening hours there is a 15 kr service fee.
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Zero
phone: +45 39 62 33 07address: Strandvejen 149, Hellerup
Eat
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phone: +45 45 85 54 57address: I.C. Modewegsvej 1, LyngbyThis restaurant close to Brede værk and the open air museum, was the original canteen for the workers at the mill factory, and has been serving food in the current house for more than 100 years - and still has the gas lamps and a beautiful glass ceiling as it did when it was build. In good weather there is outdoor serving, of the French-inspired menu, with view over the picturesque lake.
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phone: +45 39 64 06 91address: Strandvejen 506, KlampenborgThis tiny restaurant is superbly located on a large patch of grass, between the blue Øresund sea and the green Dyrehave park, in an idyllic small yellow half timbered house with thatched roof, which used to work as porter's lodge for the surrounding entertainment area in the 19th century. The chef is trained in France which shows on the menu - which also shows connection with the nature surrounding the restaurant. Not much space, and few tables, so book ahead.
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phone: +45 45 85 34 80address: Kongevejen 100, LyngbyThe restaurant is in connection with the open air museum, and is an convenient location for a brunch or lunch if you are visiting the museum, and the setting is quite beautiful. Has gotten some harsh review on their service though.
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phone: +45 45 87 01 49address: Nybrovej 376, LyngbyA very traditional inn from the turn of the 20th century, now only functioning as a restaurant, with white chalked walls and thatched roof. It' possible to sit outside and eat in the garden. Menu and crowd is as Danish as they come. Good option if you have been canoeing as it is very close to the Nybro Canoe rental place.
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phone: +45 39 64 07 86address: Dyrehaven 8, KlampenborgThis charming old white building, is in the middle of the forest right near the entrance to Dyrehavsbakken, It has been serving food to the guest of the forest since 1888, and takes its name from the hunter who opened it back in the days. Middle of the road cuisine, but the deer - fresh from the surrounding forest, is recommended.
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Restaurant Charlottenlund Fort
phone: +45 39 62 22 63address: Strandvejen 150, Charlottenlund -
Restauranten ved Frederiksdal Fribad
phone: +45 45 83 81 85address: Frederiksdal Badesti 1, LyngbyA hangout for locals in nice weather, is this restaurant located right next to the lake bath of the same name. While there is a few tables indoors, the real attraction is the outdoor tables by the lake, where you can dine till you drop with food from the barbecue. -
phone: +45 45 80 61 62address: Svenskevej 52, LyngbyAlmost running on its 150th year, this old inn is outstandingly located, near one of the old mills on Mølleå river, in the middle of the forest. The menu is modern - yet classic - Danish cooking, with the menu changing along with the seasons. Offers cooking courses if you arrange this ahead.
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phone: +45 39 63 31 01address: Enghavevej 8, KlampenborgA lunch restaurant in the Dyrehaven park, it is housed in charming red brick building dating back to the 18th century, which used to be the home of a forest ranger. Traditional Danish lunch with rye bread, salmon and cheese as well as some excellent cakes.
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phone: +45 39612275address: Sankt Peders Vej 2, HellerupVery traditional Danish lunch restaurant (smørrebrød), but they are open all day. Can be busy so reservations are recommended, but usually they will find you a seat soon anyways. Good place to have drink too. And in the summer you can sit outside.
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phone: +45 39628803address: Strandparkvej 36, HellerupThis is the restaurant in Hellerup Sailing Club. But non-members are welcome (although some tables are reservered for club member). You get excellent food at reasonable prices and in the summer you can enjoy the spectacular view over Øresund from the rooftop terrace.
Splurge
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phone: +45 45 80 22 70address: Søllerødvej 35, HolteIs another old inn, turned restaurant. A romantic setting on the edge of a forest, by a lovely old church and village pond, topped of with a view over a small palace.While expensive, it is one of the top restaurants in Copenhagen, and has a shiny star in the Michelin guide to prove it. One the most extensive wine menus in the country, and the service is usually top quality.
Ice cream
The suburbs north of Copenhagen have many great ice cream stores. The most well-known is probably Lydolph's Isbar on Strandvejen (Beach Road) which has big ice creams and long queues in the summertime. There are also many Paradis outlets in this district.
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Lydolph's Isbar
phone: +45 3962 7747address: Strandvejen 167, HellerupThis is probably the most well-known ice cream store in this district. It is located near Øresund and often attract long queues in the summertime. They are known for their large ice creams including the Lydolpher which is the largest of them. On the first day in the season they give away free soft ice.
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Paradis
address: Hellerup, Gentofte, Lyngby and SøborgParadis is a chain of ice cream stores in Denmark. Unlike the most ice cream stores the ice cream is made naturally and sometimes has some special flavours. The ice cream can be bought in either a cone or a tub, but also in large boxes. The store also offers milkshakes made of ice cream.
Drink
Another option in the summer is to head in the direction of Dyrehavsbakken (see listing in the do section), or stay there for eating if you're in the area. There are quite a lot of options; Ølgod is a Tyrolean style bierhalle, a bit tacky, but a potential for a lot of fun if you do not take yourself to seriously. Bakkens Hvile is a veritable institution in Danish culture, where the Bakken girls have been entertaining the crowd with singing, flirting and dancing in Danish cabaret style for as long as anyone can remember. Any of the other options are easy to find on weekends, when the crowd can get a bit rowdy, but usually in an innocent and hugely entertaining way.
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phone: +45 45 88 64 00address: Lyngby Hovedgade 78
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phone: +45 45 87 44 97address: Jernbanevej 16Often live music Friday and Saturday.
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phone: +45 38 81 66 22address: Brønshøjvej 6, BrønshøjA club for alternative music in genre's like synthpop, dark wave, and industrial, in the basement of a cafe. Only open when events are taking place, so check dates on their website (in English).
Sleep
Budget
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phone: +45 45 80 30 74address: Rådvad 1Really out of the way place in the middle of the forest, on the Mølleå river, in a house which used to be a boarding school dating back to 1917. If you really want to escape the rush, this idyllic village is a good option. You better have a canoe and your own wheels handy though, as the bus only goes here 5 times a day. Otherwise it is a 20 minute walk through the forest to the nearest bus stop that sees regular traffic.
Mid-range
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phone: +45 39 68 09 11address: Gentoftegade 29This Inn is teeming with traditions, tracing it roots more than 400 years back, to 1687, but do not worry - it has been thoroughly renovated, and has an up scale feel to for the price. Also houses a rather good a la carte restaurant.
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phone: +45 45 87 00 73 (no email)address: Ved Fortunen 33A small hotel, in charming yellow brick building from the 1930s. it is at the entrance the huge Dyrehaven park, and many rooms have windows facing the park, with an old fashioned 30s feel - you'll be the judge whether that is good or bad (pictures on the website). Also doubles as a solid traditional restaurant.
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phone: +45 88 10 22address: Gammel Jernbanevej 18, LyngbyCheap hotel in central Lyngby, all rooms either share bathroom with other rooms in the wing, or 2 rooms share one in the new wing. Has 2 shared kitchens for cooking, and wireless internet in all rooms. The key holder is at the Post-Pub (see drink listing)
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phone: +45 39 77 28 00address: Jægersborg Allé 166, GentofteExcellent option for the price, this hotel and conference center is housed in big baroque mansion from 1755, in quite neighbourhood. Nice views over the large park on the property - you can even arrange a picnic with row boat in the dam. Also home of a nice restaurant.
Splurge
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phone: +45 45 47 74 00address: Kongevejen 195CA 87 room hotel and conference centre in green surroundings, mainly catering to business customers, but private guests are welcomed. Nice and modern rooms, and a big terrace for outdoor dining and drinking in summer.
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phone: +45 45 88 77 00address: Klampenborgvej 232Part of the Scandic chain of hotels, which is one of largest mid-range hotel-chain in Scandinavia, and housed in the same building as the Lyngby Storcenter mall (see listing in buy section), the hotel have recently been renovated.
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phone: +45 39 62 40 44address: Strandvejen 203Up scale hotel in classical mansion just of the main street in Hellerup, in a beautiful park. Shared facilities are top notch, but the standard rooms are rather crammed for the price and the furnishings are classic, some might call them outdated. Free wireless throughout the hotel, and internet terminals available at every floor.
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phone: +45 45 85 43 33address: Frederiksdalsvej 360, LyngbyConference hotel in a striking white building from the 60s - and with 60 rooms, all with a beautiful view over the Mølleå river and green surroundings. Extra amenities include table tennis, billiards, sauna and a bar.
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phone: +45 39 64 00 28address: Strandvejen 267, CharlottenlundHistoric beach hotel with more than 350 years on its back, but has recently been thoroughly renovated. Most of the 22 rooms have fantastic views over the Øresund strait. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Camping
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phone: +45 39 62 36 88address: Strandvejen 144 BCamping inside the old fortress grounds, complete with canons and the works. Right by the beach of the same name.
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phone: +45 45 80 19 57address: Langebjerg 5, NærumWell equipped camping grounds, which also rents out small huts. Good stop if you are touring Mølleåen.