Donsol
Understand
Donsol town is a small rural town of a few thousand people. Before the arrival of tourists the local economy was based on fishing, rice farming and copra (dried coconut meat). With the arrival of tourists to see the whale sharks there has been an injection of money into the area which has meant better infrastructure. The town has a nice church, wet market and near the quay side are a fishing community and fish dealers.
About 2 km out of town is Barangay Dancalan. In Dancalan you will find the Visitor Center, most dive shops and beach resorts. Most resorts do not accept credit cards.
Most Resorts and hotels in Donsol are open only during the whaleshark season (December to May), with two exceptions listed below. The number of visitors have been declining as of recently with 2018 showing a new low. Locals seem to connect this to the similarly declining numbers of whaleshark sightings in the area.
There are no landlines in Donsol and internet access is only in the town center, with the exception of most resorts.
Get in
By plane
You can fly from Manila or Cebu to Legazpi City, then take a public minivan to Donsol.By minivan
Public minivans to/from the terminal in Legazpi city cost per person.Private vans cost from per van, and you can get them outside the airport when you arrive. They have A/C and will drop you directly at your hotel.
To get to the Public Minivan Terminal in Legazpi you have to take a tricycle from the airport to the Van Terminal, then wait for the van to be full (12 people). It costs per person, and the driver will drop you at the Donsol Bus Station in the city center.
Buses also are available from Manila direct to Donsol (daily) or via Legazpi.
Get around
See
- Whale Sharks. Whale sharks, locally known as butanding, used to gather in the area six to nine months a year (November - June), with the numbers peaking from February to early May. However, they have now become almost non-existent and can mostly only be experienced while scuba-diving. The largest fish in the world can grow up to 12 meters in length, and weigh many tons. They're considered a vulnerable species, and are protected in the Philippines. The first recorded sightings of baby whalesharks (under worldwide were recorded in 2009 in Donsol.
- Fireflies. One of the few places in the world that holds night time firefly tour. Fireflies light up entire trees, giving off a serene scene. This can be done at the Donsol River or at the Ogod River. The tours are done via small river boats that fit 4 - 6 people.
Do
Whale Shark InteractionSwimming with whale sharks. Register at the Visitor's Center located at Barangay Dancalan. Shark watchers are assigned a Butanding Interaction Officer and have to follow strict guidelines. All whale shark tour boats are provided by the center inclusive of an interaction guide called a Butanding Interaction Officer or BIO. Some resorts can do pre-booking for a minimal service fee. Price is ( for Filipinos and local residents with ACR card) for the registration (valid for 5 days), and per boat (up to 6 people). There is no guarantee of seeing a whale shark the chance of seeing them have now (March 2018) become almost zero. Boat operators will take you out even if no Butanding have been sighted for weeks and they will not tell you of this beforehand. No refunds or credits. Avoiding weekends and booking multiple days increases your chances of success.
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phone: +63 917 540 8410Leads guided whale shark tours every year from February to May with experienced naturalists as guides. The guides enter the water with the group and are experts at maintaining a safe approach to the sharks. Tours start in Manila and include domestic flights, all transfers, resort accommodation and full meals.
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phone: +63 917 9002464, +63 906 8016852Dive center is just across from the tourist center. Offers Dive course & day trips to San Miguel Island and Manta Bowl, island hopping and snorkeling, the price is for 3 dives (minimum of 4 divers)and give special rates for big groups. Gear is in good condition, the boat is spacious and the people are really friendly. Accepts cash payments only. Dive shop is open year round.
Frontier ScubaLeads guided whale shark tours every year from February to May with experienced naturalists as guides. Tours start in Manila and include domestic flights, resort accommodation and meals.
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Giddy's Place PADI Dive Resort
phone: +63 917 848-8881address: Clemente StOpen year round. It is the only PADI accredited facility in Donsol and the only one with Philippine Commission on Sports Scuba Diving (PCSSD) accreditation. Has the only dive training pool in Donsol and the surrounding towns. Has Donsol's only resident dive instructor and has Grade A Air. Has the lowest rate for the solo diver. Accepts credit cards (Visa, MC, Amex, JCB) without surcharge.
D'SpaThe only full service spa in Donsol and the surrounding towns and is attached to Giddy's Place. You have a lot of options including scrubs, body, foot and stone massages.
Buy
It is difficult to change money, so cash up before heading to Donsol. To exchange euros or US dollars, ask at Amor Resort or Hernandez Guest House, but the rate can be more than 10% less than the official one (teling you false numbers on rates in Legaspi). Alternatively in a pinch you can purchase meals and avail of accommodations and activities at Giddy's Place PADI Dive Resort using a credit card.
Except for the payment for the rooms, Casa Bianca accepts U.S. dollars and euros for the meals, strictly following the exact exchange rates in Legazpi.
ATMsThere are two ATMs in Donsal which take Master Card and Visa Card
Eat
Most of the resorts along the beach have their own restaurant where you can eat even if you are not staying in the resort.
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Butanding Bar & Restaurant
address: Clemente StPopular for its icy cold beer, mixed drinks, good food and seafood, good music and well-stocked bar and separate video karaoke area. One of the few places to eat past early dinner time. Free WiFi. Try the local dish "Crispy Pata" or deep fried pork leg which is a Philippine specialty. Accepts credit cards. Sadtong Panawn Restaurant500 m after the Visitor Center going east, houses few antique collections, including an old piano, pre-World War II bicycle and chair, 300-year-old vases, antique televisions and so on. The restaurant serves fresh seafoods like squid sisig and grilled squid in sweet sauce. and before leaving Donsol, try their signature flaming chicken inasal. The restaurant has free WiFi and has shows and events every Friday, Saturday and Sunday featuring Bettina Bexina and company.
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BARacuda
phone: +63 9266400863address: DancalanThe owner, Juliet, goes fishing in the day to offer you fresh fish at night. You can choose your own fish from the day's catch and they will cook it for you. They also serve cocktails. The bar is alongside the beach on a terrace, overlooking the sea. Really friendly place, Juliet will come and chat with you if you are alone. She also tends to bring rum at the end of dinner, for free. Note that the prices are quite high, especially for Philippine standards. -
AGM Beachfront Resort Restaurant
phone: +63 9196882264address: Brgy. DancalanServes freshly caught fish, crabs, shrimps and other seafood, and also meat and fresh vegetables sourced from nearby farms. Chinese, Filipino, and Continental foods are available for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant also caters. -
Amor Farm Beach Resort
phone: +63 9095181150address: DancalanThe restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner with both Western and Filipino food. At dinner time ask what fish arrived that day as fishermen arrive daily in their boats to sell their catch directly to the restaurant. They will cook it any way you like. They also have a bar and a great atmosphere.
Sleep
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phone: +63 909-5181150address: DancalanAmor Farm Beach Resort has a nicely landscaped garden and is on the beach. There is a good restaurant serving both local and Western menus. Along the beach there are plenty of nice places to have a drink - on the beach, in one of the many gazebos, or at the beach bar. It is walking distance from the outstanding visitor's center.
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phone: +63 935 965 7840address: GimagaanRooms are twin/triple, air-conditioned with individual bathrooms and hot shower. All rooms are beach view. Standard rooms (), All rates inclusive of breakfast for two person. Facilities are: bar & restaurant, swimming pool, wide beach front, free parking area, free shuttle service to Butanding Interaction Center. This is about 5 minutes ride away from the tourist center by vehicle and 10 minutes ride away from the town center. Also provide tour packages.
Hernandez Guest HouseIn the downtown, this is a budget option with basic rooms (shared bath and toilet) close to a busy street. You can get to the Visitors' Center in 5 minutes/ per head tricycle ride.
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Vitton & Woodland Resort
phone: +63 9279126313, +63 9216904399, +63 921 929 3811address: DancalanRoom rates , all rooms are airconditioned with individual bathrooms and hot shower. They have 2 restaurants inside: Mommy Nems Resto & Vitton Cafe, wide swimming pool, Dive Center (Bicol Dive Center). They offer kayak tours, firefly watching, and van transfer. Directly next to the Butanding center. Considered to be the nearest place to stay in the area near the jump-off point for whale shark interaction. As of March 2018 they seem to have a serious problem with bruised and sick street dogs roaming around the resort and especially in the restaurant area, begging for food. Bear this in mind if you have reservations about personal hygiene and safety. -
phone: +63 906 309-9372address: DancalanRoom rates: fan room with bathroom with hot & cold shower (for 2 persons); for 3 persons. Air-con rooms cost with Restaurant inside that serves fresh seafood, and an array of local and international dishes, only resort in Dancalan Donsol with Wifi. 5-10 min walking distance to the tourist center. The resto and bar has always an activity every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. So prepare yourself to the stretch of party. (Party cuts off at 10PM for other guests' rest.)
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phone: +63 917-547-4466address: PangpangThey have a swimming pool with wooden deck and an international restaurant and cocktail bar, coffee shop (espresso and brewed coffee). Also you can use beach bed. All the rooms are beach view.
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phone: +63 9065560697address: DancalanThe place is accessible by the local road on the left side of the TOP (Tourist-Oriented Police) Cop Police Station, 15 minutes' walk to the Butanding Interaction Office. They have private ecological beach cottages being shared with small group of travellers who prefer quite place in a rural setting. En suite bathrooms with hot shower. The small kitchen offers fresh sea foods and vegetables. Firefly watching nearby.
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Santiago Homestay
phone: +63 93-93108756address: Corner of SanJose street & Tres Marias DrFan double room shared bathroom. -
Giddys Place Homestay
phone: +63 9178488881address: 54 Clemente StreetBackpackers' fan double rooms with shared bathroom.