Dushanbe

By plane

• Dushanbe Airport

  phone: +992 37 4494233
  address: M. Mastangulova (ул.им.М. Мастангулова), 32/2
  Moscow flights by (Tajik Air, Somon Air, Domodedovo Airlines and Sibirian S7), Istanbul IST on (Turkish Airlines); Urumqi (China Southern Airlines). Somon Air have a weekly direct flight to Frankfurt, as well as flights to Dubai, Istanbul and Kiev. It is a hub for East Air, Somon Air and Tajik Air.

Luggages

S7 airline or its share code flies to most European countries and you could check in your luggage up to Dushanbe. Otherwise you will require a transit visa to collect your luggage and check it in again. If you have no checked luggage, you could walk direct to the transit area. If you use a different airline and have checked in luggage you need a transit visa because the airlines will not transfer it for you. For that reason you have to collect the luggage yourself and check it in for your final flight. In order to collect it you have to pass passport control for which you need a visa (many countries get it upon arrival and free). These policies are subject to change without a notice. Check with your airlines to find out whether they transfer luggage.

Visa at the airport

Most of the European and North American nationals can apply for a visa upon arrival in Dushanbe. The airport is very small and the immigration is before the passport control. Bring 2 passport photos, and have the address at which you are staying. Don't lose your "beeline travel slip" which you will get at the immigration office. the luggage X-ray machines are very poor and they pay little attention to the screens.
Watch the children when you leave the airport they will offer to take your bag to the car and start to pull it off you, though not with intentions of stealing, just wanting to help and get a tip.

By train

• Dushanbe Railway Station

  address: Nazarshoev St
  From Moscow via Volgograd, Atyrau and Termez. Trains depart from the Moskva Kazanskaya rail terminal each Monday, Wednesday and Sunday at 12:08, arriving 16:16 four nights later. Tickets costs from for a second class sleeper. - Trains depart to Iski-Guzar (via Vahdat), Tursunzoda (toward west via Hisor), to Kulob (via Obikiik, Kuybyshevsk, Qurghonteppa, Sarband).

By bus

There are no international bus services.If you are planning to go to a different town in Dushanbe there are 'terminals' that you can either find a shared taxi or a minibus. Departs are mostly early morning.

• Pamir bus terminal

  address: Ahmed Donish Street
  Toward east to Khorog (Pamir) going usually 4X4 vehicles (525 km, 12 to 14 hours, prices are vary) all via Kalaikhum (285 km).

• Terminal Khojent

  address: Rudaki Street
  Minibuses to Khojent and Varzob, Aini, Penjikent, Khujand.

• Korvon Market terminalMany private cars to Kurgan-Tybe and Kulyab.

• From Dushanbe I Train Station,can take mini taxis toward east: Kofarnihon, Faizabad

• Polytechnic Institute terminal

  address: Djami Avenue
  for taxis toward west: Hissor

• Sakhovat Market terminalPrivate SUVs go (daily) to Afghan Border (Sherkhon Bandar). You will have to go early in the morning 05:00 to check for a shared car. Best is to go there a day before and arrange for the next day travel. Also lines toward south Qurghonteppa (85 km) and Kulob (190 km).

By bus

A number of bus services operate in Dushanbe, however there is not much clarity which one goes to where.

By marshrukta

It is very useful to figure out the marshrukta system (private cars and minibuses), which run on a standard set of routes. Minibuses are overcrowded, stop more frequently, and cost TJS1, while private cars are much quicker and cost TJS3. For marshrukti, the only important phrase is "hamin jo" (ha-MEEN JOH), which means "right here", to indicate that you want to get out.
A couple of useful 'lines' (2010):
No. 1: Giprozem (south) - Sakovat Bazaar - Circus - War Memorial - Aini Street - Dushanbe Airport
No. 2: Giprozem - Sakovat Bazaar - Circus - War Memorial - Bokhtar Street (centre)
No. 3: Dushanbe I Train Station - Rudaki Avenue - Vodanasos Bazaar (north)
No. 8: Dushanbe Airport - Aini Street - Rudaki Avenue - Ismoil Somoni Street - 102nd microdistrict (west)
No. 17: 82nd microdistrict - Ismoil Somoni Street - Rudaki Avenue - Vodanasos Bazaar
No. 29: Giprozem - Circus - Bus Station - 82nd microdistrict - Ismoil Somoni Street - Barakat Bazaar (centre)

By trolleybus

Cheap and retro way of getting around the city. Dushanbe has a few trolleybus lines running (no. 4 is one of the main ones, between the centre and the circus). Strictly a card is required to use the trolleybus, which can be loaded up with somoni. However, it's not the most user-friendly and it's much easier to offer the driver 1 somoni cash per ride (it's not actually legal for them to accept cash but almost all drivers do), the driver will usually either pocket it or let you on for free.

By taxi

Within Dushanbe it is best to take a taxi, usually it should not be more than TJS30.

Orientation

Very few streets in Dushanbe are known by their names, so it is important to know landmarks and how to navigate with them. Every taxi driver knows the airport, Somoni statue, and opera-ballet, but beyond that, it is a toss-up. It is essential to know "straight ahead," "to the left," and "to the right" in Russian or Tajik.
The center is basically one long street, with a few other main streets crossing it.
Dushanbe is an interesting city, but only for a few days. Other than a few museum and monuments, there is not much here. The nightlife is not of a western standard. There are three main clubs: Port Said, Dior, and Vastan (all on or near Rudaki Street). The clubs are pretty bad and attract bad music, prostitutes, and are mostly filled with men. If a man goes out with a Tajik women, he will be expected to pay for her. The streets are lined with old and tall planetrees, so in the evenings a stroll along Rudaki is quite pleasant. Rudaki Park also features numerous fountains lit by coloured lights, and the Botanical Gardens (behind the Chinese Embassy, somewhat north along Rudaki) is the best place to escape the dust and noise of the traffic for peace and quiet.

Holy places

• Haji Yaqub Mosque

  address: Rudaki Ave
  The largest mosque in the CIS cost of US$100 million. It has a crescent-topped minaret and burnished golden dome.

• Sari Osiyo MosqueA new one

• Ismaili Centre

  address: Ismoil Somoni Ave,

• St. Nicholas Cathedral

  address: Druzhby Narodov St (улица Дружбы народов)), ~64
  The main pravoslav church of Dushanbe.

Museums

• Gurminj Museum of Musical Instruments

  phone: +992 372 2231076, +992 37 5731076
  address: Bokhtar Street , 23
  This small museum has an interesting variety of Central Asian musical instruments as string instruments example: rubab, Pamiri rubab, tanbur, dutor, setor, qashqar, and ghizhak. There are also number of drums such as tabl, daf, and doyra. That alone is worth a peek if you like instruments, but better still is to go when a musical or cultural event is being held, or hope to catch the folk musicians who practice there and can demo many of the instruments in the collection.

• Museum of AntiquitiesIt is quite old fashioned and includes a number of exhibits that detail the country's history. It is great for historians of contemporary Tajikistan and the current President, but only if they speak Russian or Tajik, as there are very few English signs. The museum is very poorly funded (there is a man who follows you to turn off the lights after you are finished with an exhibit room) and rather underwhelming. One of the highlight is the statue of Khatlonskogo's Sleeping Buddha which height is 14 m, found at the excavations in 1966 in south of the country.

Others

• Monument of Amir Ismail Samani

  address: Prospekt Aiani
  A monument to the 10th-century founder of the Samanid dynasty. This statue commemorates the one for whom the currency is named. Apparently, the crown is 10 kg of Tajik gold. Beware: the police at the bottom may ask for money if you take photos, so stand far back and use your zoom! (And don't encourage this bad behaviour.)

• Rudaki statueIt was opened for the Shanghai summit, a new park on Rudaki Avenue that has a huge statue of Rudaki, a new government palace, and enough fountains to drain the whole of Dushanbe. Go at night to see the lights.

• Rokhat Teahouse

  phone: +992 90 793 1347
  address: 84, Rudaki Ave
  Old traditional teahouse located near central Dushanbe on Rudaki. Better to go for the interesting architecture, not the food.

• Dushanbe FlagpoleThe second tallest free-standing flagpole in the world (162 m). This flagpole flies an flag of Tajikistan, weighing .

• Vahdat Palace

  address: 107, Rudaki Avenue (проспект А. Рудаки)
  It is the headquarters of the ruling People's Democratic Party and is also used to host international conferences

• National Bank of Tajikistan

  phone: +992 44 600 3227
  address: хиёбони Рудакӣ, 107A
  Located in a nice monument building.

• Tajik State National University

  phone: +992 372 21-7711
  address: Rudaki Ave. (хиёбони Рӯдакӣ), 17
  On Rudaki an other nice building at #33 Tajik Academy of Sciences

Further afield

• Fort HissarRebuilt 13th century fort and madrassa. It is a must-see and includes small museums of ancient Tajik culture. It was destroyed by Soviet troops in their hunt for Enver Pasha.

• Aquapark Dolphin

  phone: +992 48 702 0020
  address: Bogoutdinova (Богоутдинова), 7/2
• Bactria Cultural Centre

• Circus

  address: Karaboev Avenue, 1-3

Parks

• Botanical GardensThis is the best place to escape the dust and noise of the traffic for peace and quiet. A small forest with plenty of greenery. Usually the newly wed couples make photos here.

• Dushanbe Zoo

  address: Ismoili Somoni Avenue
  The number of animals kept is about 600 on the area: 67000 m². This is the only institution of this kind in the country. Animals are indigenous and foreign species. Couple of the most exotic animals of its lion, jaguar and snow leopard. The local fauna are represented by brown bears, black bears, Bactrian camel, donkey, wolf, jackal, fox, raccoon, and some birds like owl, vulture, golden eagle, falcon. Also some reptiles, like snakes, caymans, lizards are displayed indoors.

• Park named after S. Ayni

• Victory Park

  address: Druzhby Narodov St
  Hike to the top for a seasonal tiki-themed beer garden offering views of the city. The truly brave can take the rickety gondola. Also there is the Victory Memorial.

Theatres

• Ayni Opera and Ballet Theatre

  phone: +992 37 2213494
  address: Nisor Muhammad St and Rudaki Ave cnr
  Regularly has free or cheap concerts sponsored by embassies and travel companies.

• Lahuti Drama Theatre

  address: Rudaki Ave,
• Mayakovsky Theatre
• Padida Theatre

• Puppet theatre

• Parasty Theatre

  address: Rudaki Ave,

• Summer theatre

• Youth Theatre named after M. Vahidova

  address: Karaboev Avenue, 21-23
• Various concert halls

• Korvon Bazaar

  address: A384 road
  Korvon has a massive indoor clothing and shoes section as well as a smaller food section. It is also the place to go to find fabric rugs, although all of the rugs come from Turkey, not Tajikistan.

• Shakhmansur Bazaar

  address: Lohuti Street
  This is the biggest bazaar in downtown Dushanbe and has a huge variety of foods (very cheap by Western standards), including dried fruit, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables, spices, meats, and bread, as well as an odd assortment of tools and household products. It is possible to see the entire bazaar in an hour or two. The locals always charge foreigners more, so do your best to strike a bargain.

• Cafe Merve

  address: 92 Rudaki Avenue
  Casual Turkish cafeteria is always packed with students and young locals. Kebabs, pizzaa, salads, french fries, cakes, coffee and authentic Turkish breakfasts (feta with olives) are all on the menu, but have several choices in mind, as they rarely have everything available at any given time.

• Delhi Darbar

  address: Rudaki Avenue
  The most well-known, and possibly the best vegetarian food in all of Tajikistan, of three local Indian restaurants serves excellent butter chicken and spinach. It also offers private "family rooms."

• SalsaThe only Ecuadorian restaurant for hundreds of miles. It is a reasonable imitation of Latin cuisine and popular with Europeans. It is located just off the north end of Rudaki near Starry Night (Zvezdnaya Noch) billiards.

• TiflisOne of two Georgian restaurants in the city with some of the best meat dishes in the city, and a substantial wine list. Located behind the opera-ballet, across the park.

• Georgia Cafethe other Georgian restaurant, located about a block north of the Opera Square on Rudaki Avenue. It has simple and tasty dishes, good cheap house wine, and a nice friendly atmosphere. Either book or come early due to its popularity.

• La Grande DameThe only French restaurant in the city. Serves good steaks and other food at a hefty price. Popular with consultants with hefty per diems. On the corner of Bukhoro and Shevchenko.

• KellersA nice, well-hidden restaurant that serves European and Chinese style food (although the lines between the two are often blurred). Also, the home made beer (TJS3) is well worth trying. It is on the left side of Somoni street near Rudaki end, at the side of a block of flats.

• SteakhouseDespite the name, it is one of the only places in Dushanbe to get sushi. Other meals include steaks, pasta and American style cuisine. Live entertainment nightly.

• Segafredo

  address: Rudaki Ave
  Western food: sandwiches, soups, chicken dishes. Good place to get coffee or a snack. The salmon is surprisingly good and fresh. Downside: smokers. You will see many foreigners here.

• Beer gardens: While drinking alcohol openly isn't strictly allowed, you'd never know and the outdoor beer cafes are some of the nicest places to spend a sunny afternoon; priced at 4-5 somani per beer, they are also some of the cheapest. You'll always be able to find "zakuskas" here, snacks to have alongside beer. Plaited smoked cheese, "kasichky" ("chechil") and small pieces of battered fish are popular, as is "kurut", hard salty balls of parmesan-like cheese.

• Irish Pub: A brand-new, Irish pub serving Guinness in a can with Irish charm (considering this is Central Asia). Unfortunately the enterprising owners of this restaurant have discovered that foreigners are willing to pay absurd amounts for a Guinness, and now one can costs TJS40 (other beers cost around TJS10). To find it, go to the Gurminj museum, head south to the corner and turn left.

• Small Restaurants in front of the OperaThere are about 6 small restaurants selling shashliks, beer and softdrinks in front of the opera. Pick a table in the shade and watch people walk by while sipping your cold beer.

• Adventurer's Inn, ul. Pulod Tolis (ул. Пулод Толис) 5/11

• Atlas B&B

  address: 63, Mirzo Rizo (ул. Мирзо Ризо)
  Very good Tajik Guesthouse.

• Almos hotel

  phone: +992 93 8177272, +992 93 525 6666, +992 44 625 7373
  address: 6, Mirzo Rizo str (ул. Мирзо Ризо)
  Sauna & swimming pool, billiards & table tennis, fitness saloon, massage services, conference-room, Wi-Fi Internet, disc-bar with variety of beverages, transport services, dry cleaning and storing the luggage, Reservation and obtainment of tickets

• Avesto

  phone: +992 37 2211280, +992 44 2215252
  address: Ave. Rudaki (пр. Рудаки), 105 А

• Guest house Bakhor

  phone: +992 37 2241155
  address: Ul. Karamova (ул. Карамова) З

• Guesthouse Comfort

  phone: +992 37 2246904, +992 44 6012206, +992 918 654064, +992 918 621119
  address: 59 Lva Tolstogo str. (Ул. Льва Толстого, ул. Хамза Хакимзаде)
  24-hour room service, breakfast, bar, dinner and conference halls, laundry, transportation, Wi-Fi, telephone services, copying, scanning, printing.

• Gulistan Tour Hotel

  phone: +992 44 620-9191, +992 44 620-9393, +992 93 488-8004
  address: ul. Bukhoro (ул. Бухоро) 78

• Mercury Hotel

  phone: +992 37 2244491, +992 44 6400666, +992 44 6400777, +992 918 888889, +992 918 882222
  address: 9, Lev Tolstoy Str (ул. Л. Толстого)

• Hyatt Regency Dushanbe

  phone: +992 43 377 1234
  address: Prospekt Ismoili Somoni 26/1
  A five-star hotel with 202 rooms and suites. Amenities: floor-to-ceiling windows, sitting area, heated bath floor, wireless internet and free access to pool and health club. Lounge for free continental breakfast and evening cocktails.

• Lotus Hotel

  phone: +992 48 7018800, +992 48 7019900, +992 918 847777
  address: Perviy Proezd Lokhuti (Первый проезд Лохути), 5
  Free Wi-Fi, a fitness centre

• Guesthouse Firyz

  phone: +992 44 6409559, +992 93 8115555
  address: Proezd Muhammad (проезд Н.Мухаммад) 6/3
  Twelve rooms. All rooms have private bathroom, telephone, TV, mini-bar, air conditioning, hair dryer.

• Istiqlol Hotel

  phone: +992 44 6008150, +992 44 6008151, +992 37 2363888
  address: 12, Sportivnaya str (Улица Спортивная)

• Komron

  phone: +992 37 233-1111, +992 93 506-9999
  address: Karabaeva (1 проезд Н.Карабаева) 11, Apt 3 (кв.№3)

• Marians Guesthouse

  address: Shohtemur St (ул. Шотемур) 67/1

• Hotel Oriyo

  phone: +992 37 224-2445, +992 37 224-2474
  address: ul. Karamova (ул. Карамова ),4
• Poytakht Hotel (Пойтахт

***), Rudaki ave. (Проспект Рудаки) 7. - T.: +992 44 600-3448, +992 37 221-9655, F.: +992 44 600-3494, +992 37 223-2019

• Yeti Hostel

  phone: +992 987 133005, +992 987 360004, +992 987 133005
  address: Gafurova Street (ул. Гафурова), 34, Bldg 1
  Two four-bed rooms, one eight-bed room. 24-hour front desk staff, free WiFi, free safety box, non-smoking policy, airport pick up/drop off service

• Serena Hotel

  phone: +992 48 7014000
  address: 14 Rudaki Ave (Проспект Рудаки 14)
• SAAF (СААФ

**), (ул. Профессора Хусейнзаде) 1, T: +992 37 223-13-52, F.: : +992 37 223-13-51

• Hotel Sino

  phone: +992 372 27 0092
  address: Shevchenko Street ( ул. Шевченко), 75-26

• Hotel Taj Palace

  phone: +992 48 7017171
  address: Mirzo Tursunzoda Street (Улица Турсунзаде) 21a,b

• Takhti Shohi Hotel

  phone: +992 44 600-9933, +992 44 600-9494
  address: 3, Loiq Sherali Str. (ул. Лоик Шерали)
  6 standard rooms; 22 superior rooms

• Tajikistan Hotel

  address: 22, Shotemur Str.

• Tadzhikmatlubot

  phone: +992 37 224-6487
  address: Rudaki ave. (Проспект Рудаки) , 137

• Hotel Twins

  phone: +992 37 2213300, +992 37 221-4414
  address: Adkhamova Street (ул. Адхамова), 21
  Wide-screen TV, discount for 3 days+ orders, Free Wifi internet

• Gastnitsa Vakhsh

  phone: +992 37 227-8188, +992 37 221-4031
  address: Rudaki ave. (Проспект Рудаки), 24
  A nice, clean and very centrally located hotel. The staff might try to sell you to more expensive room first but ask for the cheaper ones. All rooms have a bathroom and a TV while some of the rooms have nice balconies toward the square in front of the Opera. Some English and German is spoken at the reception (sometimes).

• Vefa Center Hotel

  phone: +992 47 4410702, +992 47 4410703, +992 48 7011505, +992 93 4441515
  address: Bokhtar str.(ул. Бохтар), 37/1
  24 rooms. Services: air-con; free in-room breakfast with menu; Cable and satellite TV; Free Internet (Wi-Fi), Underground Parking; Laundry; Transfer, rent a car; 24/7 presence of the staff, security and video surveillance 24 hours; daily room cleaning; medical care; mini bar.

• Dushanbe Hostel Latifa

  phone: +992 887 08 10 77
  address: Rahmon Nabiyev, 2. proezd, dom 23
  Family-run hostel with 18 beds, free Wi-Fi and free breakfast. 10-20 min drive from the city centre.

• Rohat

  phone: +992 372 111 050
  address: проспект Рудаки, 24
  Central, across the road from the Opera & Ballet Theater. 100 metres to Dushanbe main road: Rudai Av. &00 meters to Traditional Market (Green Market).Good mattresses; Kettle for tea or coffee in the room, free tea bags, coffee powder, bottles of mineral water and toiletries provided daily, safe box, aircom and good Wi-Fi, flat screen satellite TV all in your room; transfer from and to the airport; self-service substantial breakfast, discounts for long stays/off-season. Helpful English speaking staff.

In general, Dushanbe is safe but robberies and street crime do sometimes occur even in broad daylight although this is rare. The police force can sometimes seem a little ineffective. Avoid attracting police attention, as the law enforcement officials are primarily concerned with augmenting their small income. People tend to be private and conservative but with a little effort they can be incredibly welcoming and genuine.
Many people complain about corrupt airport officials, who try to scam departing passengers. For further information and how to avoid problems google "Dushanbe airport scam".

Don't drink the water from the tap, nor use the water to brush your teeth, unless you're used to the tap water of the region. Always wash fresh produce, especially when bought from the local bazaar. Some melons, although they are incredibly fresh and sweet, can be irrigated and fertilized with manure, so sometimes washing them will not help. Commonly foreigners from developed countries will get sick at least once while in Tajikistan, but this can be delayed by avoiding unwashed/unpeeled fruits and vegetables (be especially wary of this in restaurants).

Embassies

• Germany

  phone: +992 37 2212189, +992 43 3773000
  address: 59/1 Ismoili Somoni Street

• Russia

  phone: +992 37 2359827, +992 37 2357065, +992 37 2350906, +992 37 2362253, +992 37 2352733
  address: Abuali Ibn Sino (ул. Абуали ибн Сино) 29/31

• Turkey

  phone: +992 48 7024108
  address: Rudaki ave. (Проспект Рудаки), 17/2

• United States

  phone: +992 37 2292000
  address: 109-A, Ismoili Somoni Avenue (Zarafshon district)

• United Kingdom

  phone: +992 37 2242221
  address: 65 Mirzo Tursunzoda Street

• UzbekistanVisas to Uzbekistan can be obtained here. You need to bring a passport size photo, a copy of your passport and your Tajik visa in addition to your passport. Some nationalities (including Finnish), need to bring an invitation. The visa is issued on the same day you submitted your application so that the processing takes, depending on how busy it is at the embassy, about an hour. The staff is neither friendly nor helpful.

Wi-Fi in Dushanbe is a rare thing. Shokoladnitsa (Шоколадница) and Çitir Usta both offer Wi-Fi vouchers if you eat in. Staff are friendly. Fancy places but the cheapest drinks are around 3-6 somoni. Download a good VPN before you arrive if you really need internet, the government is prone to blocking Google and social media access unpredictably.

There are many drivers for hire who will take you to lakes and mountains nearby. Varzob River also has some vacation areas with raised platforms above the narrow river, which is quite refreshing on a hot day. Be aware that the drivers will most likely not speak English, so a working knowledge of Russian or Tajik is advisable, as are haggling skills.
Iskander-Kul lake is popular with locals in the summertime and it's very much possible to reach it for free through hitchhiking and hiking. There is a waterfall. Often completely packed though.
An alternative waterfall in the area is near Gusgarf village. It drops 32m into a pool, possible to swim (for the brave!) unlike in Iskander-Kul. Difficult to find, however. There is a shepherd's trail from Gusgarf village about 4km north. 1,000m ascent over rough scree. Follow the (sometimes invisible) trail to the top of the mountain (where it is possible to camp and make a fire), look down over the ridge and to the left, the waterfall is hidden behind the large bare rock. Turn left along the ridge and walk along until you see a trail leading down to the right; follow this over a ford until you reach a rocky barely-there stream flowing steeply downhill on the left, then follow this down to the waterfall. Or ask a shepherd for directions ("gdye vadapad?" should suffice). Difficult hike, wear good shoes.