Edinburgh/Old Town
Along with the New Town, the Old Town was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995.
Get in
Walk, bus or taxi from other parts of the city; train or tram doesn't help you.
By foot
Most travellers are happy to explore the Old Town on foot, as there are lots of things to see on the way. Several streets in the Old Town are bridges, and so you may find the streets are not connected as you might expect from a glance at the map, and there are some steep slope and staircases between streets. The main layout of the Old Town is designed like a fish skeleton, so there are plenty of sidestreets and alleys (closes). Most streets are very small and steep, so be prepared for tough terrain.By bus
North Bridge and South Bridge are very well served by buses, and you are unlikely to have to wait more than 5 minutes during a weekday daytime. The Mound and George IV Bridge has a reasonable service.East-West bus services are less frequent, except along Lauriston Place. The Lothian Buses service 6 runs twice per hour from Hanover Street to Holyrood. The 2 runs four times per hour (weekday daytime) via the Grassmarket and Chambers Street. The Lothian Buses Skylink 300 runs 5 times per hour from the airport via Chambers Street and Canongate.
See
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phone: +44 131 225-9846address: CastlehillEdinburgh Castle is a magnificently situated royal fortress located on one of the highest points in the city. The castle has been continuously in use for 1000 years and is in excellent condition. Highlights include the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish Crown Jewels) and the ancient St Margaret's Chapel. The audio tour, which costs £3.50 per headset, is extremely detailed and worth hiring, providing both location based and chronologically based commentary on the castle. The Esplanade is the parade square in front of the castle, normally free to access in daylight hours, with good views of the city. The Edinburgh Tattoo and concerts are staged here, so access is restricted then, and views are cramped by the temporary banks of seating.
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Abbey and Palace of Holyroodhouse
phone: +44 131 556-5100The Palace is a royal residence, and hosts the Queen's Gallery containing a collection of art from the Royal Collection. The Palace is best known as the home of Mary Queen of Scots and as the site of the murder of Mary's secretary Rizzio, allegedly by her husband, Lord Darnley.
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address: The Royal MileThe historic City Church of Edinburgh is also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh and takes its name from the city's patron saint. St Giles' is Presbyterianism's Mother Church and contains the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle (Scotland's chivalric company of knights headed by the Queen). The building bears a distinctive crowned spire and was first officially dedicated in 1243, although a church probably existed on the site since before the 9th century.
Old Parliament HallThis 1639 Old Parliament Hall is within the Parliament House which is home of the Scottish Supreme Courts. The hall is the location where the earlier meetings of the Scots Estates, or Parliament, took place, prior to the enactment of the 1707 Act of Union (of the Parliaments of Scotland and England).
North BridgeOffers spectacular views of the city skyline. It connects Old Town and New Town with Waverley Station just below.
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address: LawnmarketIt is a 17th-century Old Town tenement (known as a 'Land') decorated with period furniture. It has an impressive painted ceiling.
Greyfriars KirkyardA very old graveyard that contains some impressive, ancient grave markers and fantastic views of the surrounding Old Town. Many folk, of course, will be drawn here by its links to , that loyal little dog brought to worldwide fame by Walt Disney. The grave of Thomas Riddell is said to be the inspiration of "Tom Riddle" from J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter.
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phone: +44 131 348-5200A unique building, designed by the Spanish (Catalan) architect Enric Miralles, with a £431 million price tag which is much higher than the original back-of-an-envelope estimate. Highly controversial among Scots, who consider it either a daring showpiece of postmodern architecture or a national embarrassment. The Parliament generally meets Tue-Thu and you can watch debates from the Public Gallery. Ask for tickets at the reception. The First Minister's Question Time is normally on Thursdays 12:00-12:30. You need to reserve tickets in advance (up to 7 days). If you did not get a ticket, you are put on a waiting list if you arrive in person from 10AM on the day and might get access if other people did not show up. You can follow the question time from the Overspill Room while waiting. On non-business days (M F Sa) you can view the debating chamber from the Public Gallery without tickets. In the lobby area there are often exhibitions.
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address: Castle HillOver 150 years old, the Camera Obscura focuses light from the top of the tower onto a large dish in a dark room below, allowing a 360-degree view of all of Edinburgh! The tower is also host to a fun and quirky gallery of optical illusions. Great views of the city from the top of the tower.
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phone: +44 131 550 7800address: Holyrood Road, EH8 8ASA visitor experience with interactive exhibits about the natural aspect (volcanoes, polar ice, rainforest) of our planet.
GrassmarketThis is the area beneath and just south of the castle, a pleasant cobbled stretch of shops, pubs and eating places. Some are tourist-trappy - see "Buy" & "Drink" for specific reviews, but overall the place is a tribute to gentrification of what had been a depressing quarter of town. In the 1820s Burke & Hare lived here, preying on its denizens to supply fresh corpses to the anatomists. Until the 1970s it was the abode of derelicts and rough sleepers - then property values soared. Grassmarket is close to Usher Hall & Lyceum to the west; the 3 streets leaving it to the east lead up the Royal Mile, down into Cowgate and up to Greyfriars Bobby.
Museum and galleries
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phone: +44 300 123 6789The museum mixes innovative modern architecture with the best of Scotland's heritage. The Royal Museum has a magnificent airy Victorian atrium now with the Millennium Clock at one end - arrange to be there when it is chiming. Exhibits in the Museum of Scotland include Scottish pottery and weapons from the Roman era and the Renaissance. The museum has recently reopened after major rebuilding. The roof terrace on the seventh floor (free access) offers nice views over Edinburgh.
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address: University of Edinburgh, Doorway 3, Medical School, Teviot PlaceThe Skeleton of William Burke is on display. Together with William Hare he killed at least 16 people in 1828 and provided them for dissection. The museum also shows life and death masks from famous scientists, politicians and murderers.
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St Cecilia's Hall - Concert Room and Music Museum
phone: +44 131 650 2600address: Niddry Street, Cowgate, EH1 1NQSt Cecilia's Hall is Scotland's oldest purpose-built concert hall and opened in 1763. After restoration work that started in 2015 it re-opened in May 2017 and now contains the University of Edinburgh collection of historic musical instruments (16th to 20th century) that focuses mostly on instruments no longer in use today. Concerts and other events take place in the concert room. -
phone: +44 131 650-2210address: University of Edinburgh, Old College, South BridgeA gallery with changing exhibitions of cutting edge modern art. Even if the art is not to your taste, it is worth visiting due to its location in the Old College of Edinburgh University, a fine building built between 1789 and 1827 by Robert Adam and Henry Playfair. The Georgian Gallery has a Playfair interior and a mixture of Old Masters and modern installations.
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phone: +44 131 225-2383address: 45 Market StreetThe Fruitmarket Gallery aims to find the most appropriate way to bring artists and audiences together. It is a not-for-profit organization and a registered charity.
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phone: +44 131 527-1711 or +44 131 527-1600address: Nicolson StreetThe permanent exhibitions comprise of the Pathology Museum, the History of Surgery Museum and the Dental Museum. Not suitable for young children (under 10) as the exhibits include human remains.
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phone: +44 131 529-3993address: 2 Market StreetFour-floor gallery run by the city council with changing exhibitions.
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phone: +44 131 529-4057address: 163 CanongateA museum giving the local's view of life in Edinburgh over the last 200 years.
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phone: +44 131 529-4142address: 42 High StreetSee if you can find your old toys in the collection, or maybe the ones that your grandparents had.
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phone: +44 131 529-4143address: 142 CannongateMuseum of Edinburgh's history.
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phone: +44 131 529-4901address: Lady Stair's CloseMuseum about famous Scottish authors, focussing on Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. The museum is in a house built in 1622.
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phone: +44 131 623-3700address: George IV BridgeA permanent exhibition of works from the John Murray archive and changing temporary exhibitions, usually about historic literature. The main library is a copyright library and you need to apply in advance to access the reading rooms.
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phone: +44 131 622-6200address: 23 Cockburn Street, EH1 1BPPhotography gallery with changing temporary exhibitions. Darkrooms and digital lab available to hire by the hour.
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phone: +44 131 243-5464address: The Mound, EH1 1YZMuseum about money, in the former Bank of Scotland headquarters.
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address: 10 Infirmary StreetTapestry studio and gallery housed in an old swimming pool (Infirmary Street Baths). There is a cafe, shop, and viewing gallery where you can look down on the tapestry weavers at work.
Do
- Walk down the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The Royal Mile is the backbone of the sixteenth century Old Town] and most of the buildings date from this period. Take the time to divert from the main route down some of the many small "closes" that run off the Royal Mile to each side. There are plenty of bars along the length of the Royal Mile, where you can relax over a pint of Edinburgh Ale and/or a classic single malt.
Holyrood ParkWalk around in the park which is just east of the Old Town. Created by King James the VI in the 16th century, it is like a Scottish landscape in miniature, containing Arthur's Seat, three lochs: St Margaret's Loch with nearby remains of an old chapel, Dunsapie Loch along Queen's Drive with great views of the sea in the background, and Duddingston Loch (see East), and the stunning Salisbury Crags.
Arthur's SeatThe extinct volcano to the east of the city centre offers fantastic views from its summit - and at only 251 m high the ascent isn't too strenuous.
Salisbury CragsIf a lighter stroll - compared to Arthur's Seat - is in order, a traverse along the Salisbury Crags on the Radical Road offers similar panoramas of the city.
Shows and tours
Mary King's CloseWarriston's Close (opposite St Giles' Cathedral), open daily except Christmas Day. A slice of Edinburgh's medieval history, preserved since being closed over in the 18th century - watch out for the haunting.
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address: 31 Market StreetThe scariest attraction in Edinburgh featuring 11 shows and 2 rides about Scotland's horrible history: William Wallace, Mary King's Ghost, the cave of Sawney Bean, Burke and Hare and more.
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address: 354 CastlehillOffers an interactive "tour" of the history and practise of Whisky distilling, complete with a rather sedate barrel ride. This is a good place to go if you want to sample whisky, as they have a very large selection (200+?) at a fairly reasonable price. Older whiskys tend to cost more and the rarest on offer can cost up to £50.00 per measure! The atmosphere is less pub-like than some might like as it tends to be fairly quiet.
- Follow a ghost walk around the back streets surrounding The Royal Mile and learn about the sinister goings on of Edinburgh's past. These tours are generally excellent and are highly recommended.
- Take a tour through the South Bridge Vaults which date back to 1788.
Free Tour of EdinburghThere are free walking tours that set off periodically from the High Street Starbucks. They are in a variety of languages and take about 2-2½ hours, with a stop for lunch. Tickets are free, but the tour guides appreciate tips. Even with a generous tip for the guide, these are still a far cheaper way to see the city than most bus tours, and they give you a much more personal experience.
Music and theatre
The Usher Hall, the Royal Lyceum Theatre Edinburgh and the Traverse Theatre are all located next to each other.-
phone: +44 131 228-1155 (Box office)address: Lothian RoadThe main concert hall in Edinburgh which regularly features The Royal Scottish National Orchestra (RSNO). It was completed in 1914 and funded by a donation from Andrew Usher, a Scottish whisky distiller and blender. The concert hall can seat up to about 2,200 people.
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Royal Lyceum Theatre Edinburgh
phone: +44 131 248-4848 (Box office)address: 30b Grindlay StreetOne of Scotland's largest producing theatre company. The theatre building dates back to 1883. -
phone: +44 131 228-1404 (Box office)address: 10 Cambridge StreetThe Traverse theatre company is dedicated to new works.
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phone: +44 131 529-6000 (Box office)address: 2 Leven StreetMostly hosts major touring drama.
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phone: +44 131 529-6000 (Box office)address: 13/29 Nicolson StreetHome of the Scottish Ballet and Scottish Opera. It also hosts contemporary dance and ballet events and musicals.
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Reid Concert Hall
phone: +44 131 650-2422address: Bristo SquareThe Reid School of Music (University of Edinburgh) offers free lunchtime concerts (usually starting at 1:10PM and lasting for about one hour and taking place at the Reid Concert Hall) at irregular intervals. Check the calendar for details on these events and additional concerts.
Cinema
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phone: +44 871 902 5723address: 38 Home StreetMainstream & alternative films, in remarkable surroundings. A much-loved venue that's well worth a visit.
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phone: +44 131 228-2688address: 88 Lothian RoadEdinburgh's (and Scotland's) largest venue for arthouse and foreign language films. Great café and bar, and hub of the annual International Film Festival.
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phone: +44 870 505 0007address: 118 Lothian RoadMostly mainstream movies.
Buy
You don't need to go to the faceless chain stores and multinationals that line the main shopping streets in the New Town. Support local Edinburgh businesses and take home a fantastic and unique memento of your trip.
Victoria Street and the east end of the Grassmarket is where the Old Town's best shopping experience can be found. A clutch of independent business can be found here, and it is highly recommended that you avoid overpriced tourist traps on the Royal Mile and make a beeline for here.
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address: 42 Victoria StreetSome of the quirkiest (and best) gifts in Edinburgh can be purchased here.
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address: 83 The GrassmarketA local institution, has all the vintage clothing you could ever want.
Cockburn Street (pronounced "co-burn") has many small alternative shops.
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address: 9 Cockburn StreetA great little record store dealing mainly in dance/electro music.
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phone: +44 131 285-0678address: 53 Cockburn Street, EH1 1BSRelaxed homeware and interior accessories.
The Royal Mile especially the higher end near the castle, has many tourist-oriented shops selling Scottish souvenirs from postcards to whisky and kilts. These shops help reinforce stereotypes that a modern Scotland is trying to shake off. However there are also good exceptions:
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address: 172 CannongateAn independent bottler of whisky.
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address: 270 CanongateA skatewear and skateboard store situated at the lower end of Royal Mile.
Other great shopping opportunities are the following ones:
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address: Castle TerraceA variety of delicious food like freshly made burgers, hog roasts and local bakery products is offered, as well as Scottish produce such as cheese, beer, fish, meat and fruits/vegetables.
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phone: +44 7875 482 668address: 64 Home StreetA very good Polish bakery, which offers a variety of loaves of bread and sweet pastries.
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address: 21 St Mary's StreetOne of the city's best independent music stores. Support your local record shop!
The Pubic Triangle is usually best avoided, due to its proliferation of lap-dancing establishments, but during the day you can find a number of great shops here. It can be found at the intersection of Lady Lawson Street and West Port, near the western end of the Grassmarket. A gaggle of second-hand bookstores adorn this area.
Eat
You can find plenty of nice and affordable food options along and around the one long street called South Bridge, Nicolson Street and (further south) (South) Clerk Street.
Budget
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address: 7 Nicolson StreetSmarter than your average kebab shop - and an Edinburgh institution. "Diner" type establishment which serves kebabs as well as curries. Take-away or (limited) eat-in. Run by Muslims so there are lots of vegetarian options but no alcohol license. Popular with students as it's close to George Square.
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Tempting Tattie
address: 18 Jeffrey StreetBaked potatoes (tatties) are also a Scottish staple. Some say the best in town can be found here. A tattie stuffed with enough fillings for a family of 4 can be had for under £5. -
The Baked Potato Shop
address: 56 Cockburn StreetBaked potatoes with a range of vegetarian and vegan fillings, as well as vegan cakes. -
address: 34 Victoria Street (and also 82 Cannongate)This small eatery does one thing, the pulled pork sandwich, and it does it extremely well. No chips, no crisps, no sides, just pork, sauces and a roll. It's quite cheap, with £5 getting you a sandwich and a drink.
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address: 50 PotterrowIn the building directly adjacent to the Edinburgh Central Mosque. A classic student hangout, with meat and vegetable curry available for around £5.
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Kampong Ah Lee - Malaysian Delight
address: 28 Clerk StreetTasty Malaysian dishes such as Roti Canai, Satay, Nasi Lemak, Laksa, Rendang, etc. -
phone: +44 131 558-1728address: 38 South BridgeHas a wide range of delicious pies and pastries (mostly savoury).
Mid-range
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address: 52 Home StreetThis restaurant offers very good Nepalese and Indian food at moderate prices around £7 mains (excluding rice or bread).
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Petit Paris
address: 38-40 GrassmarketTraditional French restaurant complete with chequered tablecloths and whitewashed walls. -
David Bann's Vegetarian Restaurant
address: 56-58 St Mary's StreetImaginative and tasty vegetarian food. Some courses are suitable for vegans. Main courses cost about £11-13. -
address: 14 Brougham StreetA South Indian restaurant and a rare treat because it serves Indian "street food" dishes such as dosas. There also can't be very many restaurants in the world serving (vegetarian) haggis pakoras. And they are as tasty as they are rare!
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address: 5a Johnston TerraceThai food, with vegetarian options.
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The Bombay Bicycle Club
address: 6 Brougham StreetAverage Indian restaurant offering the usual array of Indian and curry dishes. Attentive staff. -
address: 21 George IV Bridge EH1 1ENConsistently good coffee and light bites, cafe is full of university and creative types - JK Rowling wrote much of the first Harry Potter book here. And that alas is the problem: it's become part of the Potter circus, every half hour sees another coachload of tourists all craning for selfies and trying to nick the cutlery and scrawling graffiti in the loo. Prices, service and ambience have suffered accordingly, and Rowling has fled to a castle in the Highlands.
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Tanjore South Indian Restaurant
phone: +44 131 478 6518address: 6-8 Clerk Street, EH8 9HXOne of the few Indian restaurants in Edinburgh serving South Indian food such as Dosas, Uttapams, Sambar, and other Tamil specialities.
Splurge
The Witchery RestaurantJust beside Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is a small, beautiful candle-lit restaurant with fantastic food, excellent service and a wonderful wine list. Even their bread basket is a standout.
Drink
Pubs
There are many famous "traditional" pubs on the Grassmarket. Beware, however, many of these pubs are tourist traps and tend to be very popular with visiting stag and hen parties. Real Edinburghers tend to keep clear most of the time. The Royal Mile is another tourist trap, with many pubs here just not worth the bother. However, make time to visit The Jolly Judge on James Court, just off the Lawnmarket, and Albanach, which is on the corner of Cockburn Street and the High Street.-
phone: +44 131 225-2669address: 7 James CourtVery small pub with a good selection of beer and whisky. One of the few pubs on Royal Mile worth visiting. Has free Wi-Fi.
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address: 32 Forest RoadOffers good ales and pub food in a relaxed atmosphere.
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address: 25 Forest RoadHas live folk music every night.
The Pear TreeOffers a great beer garden for summer months, and a mix of university students and residents all year round. Or check out The Blind Poet next door.
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Bennets Bar
phone: +44 131 229-5143address: 8 Leven StA good old-fashioned pub that satisfies with cold beer on tap and tasty cheap food. Bennets also has a good range of real ale and the selection changes weekly. -
address: 32b West Nicolson StreetLarge changing selection of keg ales. Beer prices are more on the expensive side. They occasionally brew their own beer on site.
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phone: +44 131 556-2101address: 67 Canongate, EH8 8BTOn Mondays they offer very good £1 pizza if ordered with a drink (one pizza per person only) from 5PM until stock lasts. They have a changing selection of four cask ales and a good range of whiskies (including some from the independent bottler Cadenhead's).
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phone: +44 131 2267667address: 80 West BowAn unpretentious traditional pub with a large selection of whiskies, and a good choice of changing guest ales.
Cowgate
General debauchery can be found on the Cowgate which runs under the South and George IV bridges. Numerous clubs and bars line this street, which gets very, very crowded at weekends.-
address: 66 CowgateAlso well worth a mention for travellers. A short hike down Holyrood Road towards the new Scottish Parliament, this is a great cafe style bar cum live music venue, with excellent club nights, especially the popular "Fast Punk Club".
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address: 36-38 Blair StreetOne of the city's most respected clubs, and also hosts regular gigs. Club nights are eclectic and cater to all tastes.
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address: 71 CowgateOpium is one of the staples of the Cowgate and a haven for those of a more alternative persuasion. The music is rock, with a jukebox downstairs and a DJ upstairs. It runs a popular rock karaoke night on Mondays. Opium has very cheap drinks details and gets very busy on the weekends.
Other venues
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address: 52 West PortA trendy and well-hidden cocktail lounge just up the street on West Port, which is arguably the city's best bar. This does mean, of course, that it can often get very crowded.
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phone: +44 131 229-4922address: 141 Lauriston PlaceVolunteer run arts cafe. Has Wi-Fi.
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phone: +44 131 220-4298address: 1a Chambers StreetEdinburgh's famous, quadruple award-winning live music venue has a lovely warm internal ambience and wide-ranging audience demographic. Featuring a lot more than 'jazz', there's multiple back-to-back gigs a day, seven nights a week, with acoustic, jazz, funk/soul and other good music, to 3AM every night. A popular weekly feature is their Monday night 17-piece Big Band.
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address: 9c Victoria StreetIs one of Edinburgh's most established nightclubs. It plays host to both regular gigs and popular club nights. "Evol", which takes place on a Friday night, is a well respected indie night. For a cheaper, more student orientated indie night, try their Wednesday night club "Indigo".
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address: 54 George IV BridgeCocktail bar and restaurant.
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address: 11-13 North Bank StreetPopular with a slightly older crowd than you'll find in such a student-orientated city, it is quite a lively nightspot.
Sleep
Budget
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phone: +44 131 220 0730address: 18 Market St, EH1 1BL
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address: 37-39 CowgateRegularly voted top 5 in the world due to its cheerful and friendly staff and modern amenities. It's a bit crowded and don't expect the internet to work.
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phone: +44 8454 900 461address: Darroch Court, St John’s HillIn Cowgate, open every summer from the beginning of June until the beginning of September. Budget accommodation in 43 apartments used as student residences during term time.
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phone: +44 131 524-2090address: 15 Robertson's CloseOpen in July and August only taking over Edinburgh University’s halls of residence during the semester break.
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phone: +44 131 455-3722address: 1-15 Riego StreetOffered by Edinburgh Napier University during summer only (semester break). Used as student accommodation throughout the rest of the year. Send an email or call for booking requests. Between 4 and 5 single rooms in one shared apartment.
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phone: +44 131 225 9666address: 15 Johnston TerraceLarge hostel, on the hill just below the castle.
Mid-range
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Ibis Edinburgh Centre South Bridge
address: 77 South Bridge EH1 1HNReliable chain hotel, a welcome mid-range addition to the Old Town's accommodation.
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phone: +44 131 662-2080address: 10 Hill PlaceAward winning hotel created from a fusion of a traditional Edinburgh Georgian terrace with a modern and fairly stylish new development, 78 bedrooms no less, and 4 stars too.
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phone: +44 131 200 3300address: 43 Jeffrey St, EH1 1DH
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DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Edinburgh City Centre
phone: +44 131 221 5555address: 34 Bread St, EH3 9AF -
phone: +44 344 879 9028address: 81 Holyrood Rd, EH8 8AU
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ibis Edinburgh Centre Royal Mile - Hunter Square
phone: +441312407000address: 6 Hunter Square EH1 1QW -
phone: +44 131 243 3456address: 61 Grassmarket, EH1 2HJ
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Apex Grassmarket
phone: +44 131 300 3456address: 31-35 Grassmarket, EH1 2HS -
phone: +44 131 524 8400address: 300 Cowgate, EH1 1NA
Splurge
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address: 21 Festival SquareAgainst the backdrop of majestic Edinburgh Castle, the Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa combines city centre convenience with warm Scottish hospitality.
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address: 80 High StThe Royal Mile. Less than a five-minute walk from major shopping and business districts, and the Edinburgh International Conference Centre is only a short taxi ride away.
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phone: +44 131 220-6666address: 1 George IV BridgeSituated on the Royal Mile and designed by Rosita Missoni.
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phone: +44 131 472 3000address: 19 North Bridge, EH1 1SD
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phone: +44 131 556 5565address: 20 North Bridge, EH1 1TR
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address: Roxburgh's Court, 323 High St, EH1 1LWSelf catering apartments and studios.
Connect
Internet
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phone: +44 131 242-8137address: George IV BridgeThe Learning Centre at the Central Library has 16 computers with free internet access, also MS Office applications. If there is no PC free when you visit it's possible to reserve a slot later that day.