Ghadamis

This is a tranquil old city, with white, covered streets that are both dark and refreshingly cool. Ghadamis was built painstakingly based on a complex knowledge of how to deal with extreme temperatures. The positioning of Ghadamis' buildings is far from casual. Every angle, every wall, every opening in the roofs over the alleyways, are parts of the same organism. Ghadamis still stands, but the people have moved into the modern settlement nearby. Yet they still take refuge in the old city when summer becomes unbearably hot. With the exodus of its local population, and their resulting loss of knowledge of engineering buildings to maintain natural air conditioning, an important science could be lost. In its earlier days, the life line of Ghadamis was trans-Sahara trade, including the slave trade.

• Ghadames AirportPossibly flights with Libyan Airlines from Tripoli but should check current situation

• Ghadames MuseumMuseum of Berber history and the local wildlife.

• Mahmmoud AkkaCamel trips across the desert, trips for festivals, photography or to villages.

If you want a good evening meal try Akmed’s restaurant. He is a very efficient Tunisian who runs a tight ship. The camel steaks are very tough, but the chicken is absolutely delicious.

• Ben Yedder HotelConveniently located in the centre of the small town. The rooms are basic but the beds are nice and firm. Breakfast is very basic.