Glenelg
Glenelg is a small village on the coast of Wester Ross in the Scottish Highlands, which historically was one of the main crossings to and from Skye. The cattle swam across on their way to market, while the humans took a ferry. Paradoxically the ferry was boosted when the road bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh opened in 1995, as this had high tolls, prompting community protests, refusals to pay, and work-around routes. The bridge became toll-free in 2004 and now takes the bulk of the traffic but the Glenelg ferry still sails in summer.
The village has helpfully put up a sign on its outskirts confirming that you've reached the Glenelg that's on Earth, not the one on Mars.
Get in
By train: the nearest railway station Kyle of Lochalsh is ten miles north as the crow flies, but over 30 miles by road winding around Loch Duich. Kyle has four trains a day to Inverness; buses to Portree and Uig on Skye meet these trains. With bike on train, consider cycling from Kyle over the Skye Bridge then doubling back to Kylerhea for the ferry to Glenelg.
Glenelg-Kylerhea FerryThis unusual contraption runs every 20 mins or so in summer. The deck is a turntable platform that can just about fit six cars. The ferry comes in alongside the pier, then the turntable is swivelled manually so vehicles can drive on or off.
Get around
See
Bernera BarracksAfter the 1715 Jacobite rebellion, the government were determined to tighten their grip on the Highlands, and built several forts and garrisons at strategic locations. These barracks, built 1717-1723, were for troops controlling the crossing from Skye. These fortifications all proved ineffective in preventing or subduing subsequent rebellions, and the barracks were abandoned in 1797 and fell into ruin. They're unsafe and you can't enter, so admire them from the road or fields.
Dun TelveTwo iron age brochs (about 2000 years old) stand close together; they're some of the best preserved in Scotland, in spite of having their stone pilfered to build Bernera Barracks. Dun Telve, the larger, is a drystone tower 18.3 m in diameter and 10.2 m tall; its walls are 4.3 m thick at the base. The two brochs were "cleaned up" by officialdom in the early 20th C without any archaeological supervision, and have never been excavated.
Dun TroddanNear Dun Telve, this is the other broch, 17.5m in diameter and 7m tall.
- Dun Grugaig is a broch a further mile up the glen by a steep path. This is a "semi-broch" ie D-shaped rather than circular, some 17 x 12 m in area. It's not to be confused with Caisteal Grugaig broch by Loch Duich, see Dornie.
Do
Buy
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phone: +44 1599 522221Grocer with a Crafty Gifts next door
Eat
- Wild West Cafe in the village centre is open daily 10:00-17:00.
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address: Gleann BeagIn an old showman's wagon by Dun Troddan.
Drink
Sleep
- There's one B&B and a handful of self-catering cottages.
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phone: +44 1599 522273With restaurant & bar open to non-residents (Nov-Mar only open Th-Sun from 5 pm).
Go next
- Dornie and the scenic Eilean Donan Castle
- Kyle of Lochalsh and the Skye Bridge
- Plockton harbour popular with yacht and dingy sailors