HöfnHöfn (pronounced something like "herpn", also known as Höfn í Hornafirði, is a town in East Iceland, at the south-eastern corner of the country. Höfn sits by the lagoon (or fjord) Hornafjörður which is also the name of the large municipality of which the town is the centre and which covers the entire area of the county Austur-Skaftafellssýsla. This guide covers the town and the surrounding municipality, excluding the westernmost part which forms one of the main gateways to Vatnajökull National Park. For tourism purposes, the area calls itself the Vatnajökull Region: nowhere else is quite as dominated by Europe's largest glacier, nowhere else have people learned to live in such close quarters with the huge sheet of ice.
Despite its name which indicates a fjord, Hornafjörður is a very large lagoon with a blend of fresh and glacial water. The 40 km² lagoon is formed by interactions of the Atlantic Ocean and the Vatnajökull glacier, which by its constant movement produces clay and sand, carried by the glacier rivers and ending up as sediment in the lagoon. The lagoon is shallow, but nevertheless navigable by large ships and the town of Höfn (the name means harbor) is located at the first natural harbor on the south coast after Þorlákshöfn hundreds of kilometers to the west.
The area is dominated by large mountains, wide rivers, and the ever-present Vatnajökull glacier. All of this has combined to make the area one of the most remote in Iceland until the last few decades of the 20th century when roads were significantly improved.
Hornafjörður AirportEagle Air flies from Reykjavík () most days. The airport is some distance outside Höfn, though, and the only way into town is by driving. The airport does have one Budget Car Hire (book in advance as it's a small rental station).
By busThe bus stop in Höfn is the just off the main road leading into town.
From Reykjavík, there are two daily buses to Höfn. Buses leave from the Mjódd bus terminal in the south of the city, the ride takes 8-9 hours and may entail a transfer in Hvolsvöllur.
Getting in by bus from Egilsstaðir (or Seyðisfjörður, where ferries from Denmark arrive) in the east of the country is doable but requires transfers in Reyðarfjörður and Breiðdalsvík and possibly an overnight stay in the latter. For schedules, see bus routes in East Iceland on the Strætó site.
By carThe Ring Road is the main road (and in places, the only road) through the entire Hornafjörður area, but Höfn is a few kilometers off the Ring Road and is connected to it by road nr. 99. Höfn is a little over 450 km from Reykjavík and between 200 and 250 km from Egilsstaðir, depending on which route is taken.
By carIf you have a car, it's easy enough to get around and quite difficult to get lost.
By public transportationThe only means of public transportation is a single taxi which can be ordered by calling – however the town is easily small enough to walk around.
Höfn can hardly be praised for architectural beauty, but a walk around the harbour can be nice and there is a bird reserve south of the harbor with good walkways. Most of the sights in the area are in fact in the nature outside Höfn. Nevertheless, the town has a few museums that can be of interest:
Gamlabúð Folk Museumaddress: VíkurbrautIn an old, white timber building on the outskirts of town, this museum focuses on the lives of local people during the period between 1850 and 1950. (The building and the museum have been moved to the harbor area.)
address: Hafnarbraut 27A small gallery which hosts exhibitions of the municipal art collection and contemporary local artists.
Huldusteinnphone: +354 866 2820address: Hafnarbraut 11Collecting rocks is a popular hobby in East Iceland. This private collection of rocks has been opened in Höfn's old swimming pool. Rather odd, but definitely interesting for geology enthusiasts.
The area surrounding Höfn has some of the most stunning nature in Iceland. The lowland area a narrow band of floodplains between the sea and the glacier-topped mountains, where large glacial rivers are still relatively untamed. These floodplains are of a sort called sandur - the word is Icelandic for sand but has been adopted as the international scientific name for the sandy floodplains of glacial rivers found almost exclusively in Iceland and Svalbard. The largest such sandur is , which wasn't bridged until the 1970s.
The mountains are among the highest in Iceland. is a sub-glacier of Vatnajökull which contains Iceland's tallest mountain, Hvannadalshnjúkur. In the valleys between the mountains, Vatnajökull has a number of icefalls which are accessible by gravel tracks and for the independent traveller with a good car it's a good idea to search out some of the less popular ones to visit for a private date with nature. Some of the icefalls end in glacial lagoons. The most famous is which is next to the ring road, 100 km west of Höfn. It's an incredible place where large icebergs break off from the glacier and find their way to the sea.
Finally, although the vast majority of the population in the area is found in Höfn, Þórbergur Þórðarson (one of Iceland's most famous writers) came from the farm Hali. Today a museum in his honor, , is located by Hali which is about 75 km west of Höfn.
Swimming pooladdress: Víkurbraut 9The town offers few activities, although the swimming pool is impressive for a town of this size.
During a few days in late June or early July every year the lobster festival Humarhátíð is celebrated in Höfn. The celebrations include concerts and other performances, competitions, a fun fair, general merrymaking and of course different foods made with lobster.
Outside HöfnMany great hiking locations are in the area, most mountains other than the very highest can be safely hiked in good weather. Northeast of Höfn is Lónsöræfi, a wilderness which is one of Iceland's great hiking areas perfect for day-long hikes. Lónsöræfi is a part of Vatnajökull National Park, but not easily accessible from any other part of the park.
Most activities in the area are related to Vatnajökull and its many icefalls. Information about licensed guides can be obtained from the local tourist information by calling +354 470 8084. Tour companies include:
phone: +354 894 1616address: Bugðuleiru 3, Höfn farmTransportation and travel packages in the region of Vatnajökull Glacier, all year round.
phone: +354 894 0894address: Hofsnes farmA number of different tours including ice climbing, kayaking and bird watching.
phone: +354 894 3133Jeep tours on to Vatnajökull from a base at Skálfellsjökull icefall.
Jökulsárlónphone: +354 478 2122Boat tours are available on the glacier lagoon, lasting 30-40 minutes.
The arts and crafts scene is very active in Höfn and some good souvenir shopping is possible if you keep your eyes open. A few artists have workshops and galleries in Mikligarður, an old building by the harbor. For day-to-day needs, head to the mini-mall in the center of town by Hafnarbraut.
Handraðinnaddress: VíkurbrautA local crafts center.
Eat and drink
Höfn is one of the most important harbors for lobster fishing in Iceland and many of the town's eating options include lobster dishes as the local specialty. The only supermarket is Nettó, in the Miðbær mini-mall in the center of town, which is also the location of the local alcohol store.
Hafnarbúðinphone: +354 478 1095address: Ránarslóð 2A fast food joint with burgers and subs. It also functions as a drive-through, though given that Höfn is less than a kilometer across the popularity of this is intriguing.
phone: +354 478 1200address: Hafnarbraut 4Specializing in lobster (humar in Icelandic), this slightly up-scale restaurant serves absolutely delicious food in a historic building close to the harbor. Officially only open in summer, but do phone in low season, they may open the restaurant just for you with no extra fees.
Kaffi Horniðphone: +354 478 2600address: Hafnarbraut 42A cozy restaurant/café/pub with rather typical soups, sandwiches, pasta dishes, etc., at fair prices.
Ósinnphone: +354 478 2200address: Víkurbraut 24Restaurant located the same building as Hótel Höfn, specialising in local food at rather high prices.
phone: +354 478 1503address: Ránarslóð 2The main building of the guesthouse is by the harbour with functional rooms (a bed and a wardrobe) and a shared bathroom. A more upmarket set of rooms uptown (right by the N1 gas station where the coaches stop) offer quirky furniture and rather good art and ensuite bathrooms - however you will still need to trek down to the main guesthouse to get breakfast.
phone: +354478 1240address: VíkurbrautA 1960s-style hotel with a great view.
phone: +354 478-1736address: Hvannabraut 3-5Open all year
phone: +354 444 4850address: Ranarslod 3Modern rooms, breakfast included.
Many farms in the area offer accommodation, and there are a few rural hotels. Accommodation is usually indicated by signs by the road with a picture of a bed.
phone: +354 478 1079A small guesthouse at a working farm 30 km west of Höfn.
phone: +354 478 1073A guesthouse at the farm where Þórbergur Þórðarson, one of the largest names in Icelandic literature, grew up.
phone: +354 478 1074A country hotel midway between Höfn and Jökulsárlón, open all year.
Höfn and the Hornafjörður area are right on the southeastern corner of Iceland. The area has traditionally been one of the most isolated in Iceland, and despite improved road connections distances remain great. To the north is the rest of East Iceland, starting with Höfn's nearest neighbour Djúpivogur (100 km by the Ring Road) and continuing to the East Fjords and Egilsstaðir. To the west is the south coast, the closest town to the west is Kirkjubæjarklaustur (200 km from Höfn by the Ring Road). The very adventurous (and well-prepared) can cross Vatnajökull, into either East Iceland or the Interior but this is understandably a dangerous route.