Havana

Before the Communist revolution, Havana was one of the vacation hot-spots of the Caribbean, and since Cuba reopened to tourism in the 1990s, it has become a popular destination once again, albeit with many fewer U.S. citizens, due to an almost total ban on travel maintained by the U.S. federal government. However, there will be lots of tourists at any time of year, so expect huge crowds and long lines in places.

By plane

José Martí International AirportThe airport has three main terminals (plus a couple of smaller ones). Terminal 1 is for internal (domestic) flights, Terminal 2 is mainly for charter flights and some scheduled flights from the USA and Terminal 3 is used for all other international flights.

Customs officials can be very strict, and will probably snoop out any suspicious electronics or other items. Customs officials and immigration officials also work slowly and baggage reclaim can be very slow, so do not be surprised if you have a very long wait (up to 1½ hours) when entering the country.
There’s an ATM and currency exchange in the departure hall (1st floor); however, don’t count on either being open, because these services are not very reliable in Cuba.
To get to travel between terminals you can take a cab or use the shuttle service between terminals (Connexions).
There are regular international flights to resort areas such as Varadero, and these can sometimes be less expensive than flying into Havana. From Varadero's Viazul terminal to Havana's Viazul bus terminal is three hours by bus.
Taxi
An official taxi to Havana center costs 20-25 CUC, but you can find slightly cheaper (illegal) ones. The cost is roughly 1 CUC per kilometer.
Bus
Havana MetroBus routes P-12 and p-16 travel within 400 m to 500 m of Terminals 1 (stops on Avenida Rancho Boyeros at Avenida Van Troi) and Terminal 2 (stops on Avenida Rancho Boyeros at Carretera De Murgas). Route P-12 terminates at Parque Fraternidad on Simon Bolivar near Habana Vieja (1 block south of El Capitolio) and route P-16 terminates at Parque Maceo in Centro Habana (near the Malecon). These buses operate until about 20:00 and costs 0.40 CUP per person, but are generally overcrowded.
To reach Terminal 3, exit at the stop for Terminal 2 and walk about 50 m west toward the airport, until you reach a bus shelter. From the bus shelter, wait for the hourly bus (1 CUP), hail a taxi (as low as 1 CUC if shared with Cubans), or walk the 2.5 km to Terminal 3 (for international non-US bound flights). Note that the bus does not enter Terminal 3, but drops passengers at an unmarked stop on Carretera de Murgas, across the street from La Casanosa restaurant. La Casanosa restaurant is located about 200 m north-east of Terminal 3.
Taking the bus will take longer than a taxi colectivo. For passengers transferring to reach Terminal 3,
Taxi Colectivo
A taxi colectivo route follows the same route as bus P-12 between Parque Fraternid (Simon Bolivar, just west of Fraternidad), and stops for Terminals 1 (stops on Avenida Rancho Boyeros at Avenida Van Troi) and Terminal 2 (stops on Avenida Rancho Boyeros at Carretera De Murgas). Taxis colectivos are more frequent than the bus, will stop less than the bus and only has seated passengers, but are likely not suitable to accommodate space for more than one full-sized travel/hiking backpack per passenger.
To reach Terminal 3, exit at the stop for Terminal 2 and walk about 50 m west toward the airport, until you reach a bus shelter. From the bus shelter, wait for the hourly bus (1 CUP), hail a taxi (as low as 1 CUC if shared with with Cubans), or walk the 2.5 km to Terminal 3 (for international non-US bound flights). Note that the bus does not enter Terminal 3, but drops passengers at an unmarked stop on Carretera de Murgas, across the street from La Casanosa restaurant. La Casanosa restaurant is located about 200 m north-east of Terminal 3.
Buy
At the airport (airside and landside) you pay the same prices for tobacco and alcohol as you would in a store in downtown Havana. There have been reports online that bottles bought in the airside shops were not properly sealed and thus seized during security checks for a connecting flight at another airport. Therefore it might be a good idea to buy those things already before you depart to the airport. In Terminal 3 there are two tobacco shops, a small supermarket, WIFI (can only be used with ETECSA-card), some souvenir shops and a snack bar that also serves alcohol. There is no ATM airside and that not all shops accept credit cards.
For information on Cuba's two currencies, check the section on Money in the Cuba article.

By train

Havana is the hub for the whole Cuban railway network and there are trains to most larger cities. However, financial difficulties have meant that services are scaled back to running every other day or in some cases twice a week. Therefore it's important to confirm in advance that they are running on the day you wish to travel. All services, including overnight trains, are seating only.
The main line Santiago de Cuba via Matanzas, Santa Clara and Camagüey and there are departures every second day. However as of 2017, trains with superior Primera class seating runs only two times per week. Journey time from end-to-end is about 18 hours.
Other services include:

• An overnight train from Moron with stops in Matanzas and Santa Clara.
• An overnight train from Sancti Spiritus with stops in Matanzas and Santa Clara.
• A daytime train from Camagüey with stops in Matanzas and Santa Clara (this is the only daytime service to Havana on the main line).
• A very slow daytime train from Cienfuegos.
• A slightly faster evening train to Matanzas and Cienfuegos, returns to Havana overnight.
• An overnight local train to Pinar del Rio that returns to Havana during the day.

The main station is

La Habana Central

A commuter railway line, the Hershey electric train, runs across the northern coast from Matanzas, these trains terminate at station, which is on the opposite side of the bay from downtown. Train cars are very dilapidated and will appeal certainly to die-hard train enthusiasts - but will be a good adventure for many others. The trip takes a minimum of 4 hours regardless of what the schedule says.

By car

Hiring a car in Cuba will cost you 33-106 CUC per day. When hiring it, beware of the price of the insurance policy, as it may be subject to a scam. The car will have a special tourist plate, which means you will be required to give generous tips every time you park your car in a crowded place. Taking into account the all-around unreliability of Cuban transport, hiring a car can be the right choice for those who don't want any hassle whatsoever. Picking up hitchhikers is almost a moral obligation for the "aware" tourist, especially when travelling between cities. Picking up a hitchhiker can be the best way to arrive to your destination without getting lost.

By bus

Viazul operates an inter-city coach service to/from most major destinations including Camagüey, Cienfuegos, Matanzas, Pinar del Rio, Sancti Spiritus, Santa Clara, Santiago de Cuba, Trinidad, Varadero and Viñales. The is 3 km southwest of central Havana (Update: Viazul departures are no longer from old terminal near the Zoo. They now leave from the same terminal as the Astro bus, near Plaza de la Revolucion). . Departing buses also stop at the central (Astro) bus terminal, but arriving buses do not. If you are using the central bus terminal, you buy tickets and wait for the bus in a separate air-conditioned office near the west entrance of the terminal. Schedules are posted on the Viazul website. Viazul buses are geared for foreign tourists and rarely carry Cuban nationals as Viazul's prices are higher than the non-air conditioned bus services available to Cuban nationals.
There are Cubanacan offices in many hotels, such as El Torre Hotel at Parque Central, that sell bus tickets for their own buses for the same rate as Viazul except that they pick up their passengers from major Havana hotels. So if staying in this neighborhood you can get picked up at one of these hotels and avoid the costs to get to the Viazul bus station.
Some have reported using Astro, which run from the main bus terminal near the Plaza de la Revolucion, but others report these are restricted to Cuban nationals.
By shared taxi
Shared taxis that travel between cities are often available from immediately outside of Viazul bus terminal buildings. For slightly higher rates than Viazul bus rates, shared taxis may offer services that can potentially be faster than Viazul buses and offer somewhat more convenient departure schedules, and pick and drop off from locations of your choosing. Shared taxis operate in old American cars, which do not have air conditioning and which offer inferior seating comforting compared the much more modern Viazul buses. Shared taxis operate if sufficient riders sign up and charge by the passenger. Shared taxi operators may claim travel times that are significantly faster than what is actually provided.

By boat

Due to political circumstances, it is difficult to enter Cuba by sea. Visiting mariners need to make arrangements in advance of entering port to avoid difficulties. Also, most ports are closed to unauthorised visitors.

By taxi

As a tourist, the most convenient way of getting around Havana is by taxi. Some of the taxis are old American Chevys from the 1950s, others are (somewhat) newer Russian Ladas, whilst most tourist taxis are modern Peugeots, Skodas and even Mercedes.
It is illegal for tourists to ride in anything other than the official government taxis. However, it is often easier to wave down one of the old Chevys or Ladas. When riding in an illegal taxi, negotiate the fare ahead of time. The fare in illegal taxis will be no cheaper than the official taxi fare. Around the city, taking illegal taxis should be no problem. However, taking an illegal taxi to or from the airport may attract the attention of the police.
Taxis colectivos
Taxis colectivos are the old, beaten-up American cars with a taxi sign on the roof or in the front window, which will typically already have numerous Cubans on board getting on and off and will take additional passengers if flagged down. Tourists are not supposed to take them, but you will rarely run into problems and they are a fun and cheap alternative to the state-run taxis. They have set fares and run set routes, so you may need some assistance when taking them the first few times.
Fares vary from 10 CUP for a short (5 km) run during the day to 20 CUP for a longer run or at night. The drivers are generally honest regarding the fares, but it is best not to appear oblivious by asking how much at the end of the trip. Always watch what the other passengers give: if in doubt, give only 10 CUP unless the driver asks for another 10. There can be a long wait trying to get a taxi colectivo as they are very popular with Cubans and often full, but the experience and the savings make it worthwhile.
Taxi colectivo routes
The following is a non-exhaustive list of taxis colectivos routes:

• Parque de la Fraternida (westbound on Simon Bolivar, just west of Industria). Follows Simon Bolivar, Avenida Salvador Allende, Avenida Manuel de Cepedes, Avenida de la Independencia, Avenida de Rancho Boyeros. Route travels within blocks of Habana Vieja, Plaza de la Revolucion, Viazul bus station (800 m away), and Airport Terminal 2 (500 m away).

Coco taxis
Coco taxis and yellow three-wheel motorbikes are a cheap way of getting around central Havana. Coco taxis are bright yellow motorcycle cabs that charge 0.50 CUC per kilometer (2016), or more if they think they can get away with it.

By bus

Havana used to have a public transportation service called the El Camello, a split-level bus pulled by a semi-truck, and resembling a 2-humped camel (thus the name). Camellos finished operation in Havana in April 2008 (but still can be seen elsewhere in the country) and were replaced by modern YuTong Chinese city buses.
The cost of riding the new city bus is 0.40 CUP to anywhere in the city. The driver will not give you change. Almost all buses are overcrowded, there are plenty of buses running though, so if the one you want is full simply wait for the next one (don't expect to sit though). There are few clearly marked bus stops on route, but it's clear where they stop usually as you will have other waiting at the side of the road.
Other local buses can also get crowded, but in the suburbs, they are a practical means of transport for visitors.

By car

Whilst useful for reaching some of the less central locations in Havana, the price of car hire will rarely be less than using taxis.
Traffic is moderate, especially outside the rush hour. Do however expect to share the road space with a multitude of cyclists, pedestrians and poorly parked vehicles.
Parking regulations are enforced in central Havana. There are many attended, on-street car parks, use them. Expect to pay 1 CUC for parking.

By cycle

Cycling can be a great way to get around Cuba. There are a number of international tour companies that offer guided tours, the most popular is from Havana to Santiago de Cuba. If you are travelling in February and March avoid the west to east approach as the trade winds are tough to cycle against.

By foot

Walking around Havana is by far the best way to see and experience the city: get a decent map of the city and discover new sights on foot.

The Old Town of Havana, 'La Habana Vieja, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and strolling along its streets and enjoying the beautiful buildings is a must for any visitor. Some parts of the Old Town are quite dilapidated with crumbling buildings but many others have been restored to their former glory.
An evening walk along the Prado is a great way to sip in the street life and enjoying the hums of numerous cafes and restaurants. The street is however not illuminated at night. Another favorite stroll for tourists and locals is along El Malecón, Havana's waterfront with stunning views of the city.

• Museum of the Revolution

  address: Refugio No 1
  Housed in the former presidential palace this iconic museum offers a history tour from pre-Columbian to the revolution in 1959 an on to present day socialist Cuba. Even if there's more than a hint of propaganda among the exhibitions it's still a must on any visit to Havana.

• National Capitol Building

  phone: +53 7 8637861
  address: Paseo de Martí, 422
  Completed in 1929, this neoclassical building which resembles the U.S. Capitol housed the Cuban Congress prior to the revolution. The building is being restored and will within a few years again house the National Assembly.

• Partagás Cigar factory

  phone: +53 7 8624604
  address: Calle Industria 520
  A guided visit to the original Partagás factory gives a wealth of information about production and cultivation of tobacco and cigars. It is also the place for buying authentic Cuban cigars, more expensive than on the street but with fantastic quality.

• Havana Club Rum Museum

  address: Avenida del Puerto 262
  Go on a guided tour of Havana Club, one of Cuba's most famous rums. Most of the exhibits are subtitled in English and are fairly self-explanatory.

• Plaza de la RevoluciónHuge square dominated by a statue and monument of Jose Marti and the iconic image of Che Guevara adorning the Ministry of the Interior. Arrive either early or late, as it is often swamped by tourists and gets very hot during the day.

• Lennon Park

  address: Calle 8
  Features the only statue of a western musician in Havana. Notable for the regularly stolen (and replaced) eyeglasses.

• US Embassy

  address: Calle Calzada
  This heavily fortified and guarded building is where Cuban citizens go to apply for U.S. visas. It was notable for displaying news which was unfiltered and not censored by the Cuban government on electronic billboards behind the windows of one of the floors, but these were switched off in 2009. It is also the focus for regularly staged protests.

• Hotel Habana LibreThe hotel housed Castro's soldiers for several days after they took Havana. It has an excellent selection of photos in the lobby along with one of the only 24-hour fast food restaurants in the city.

• Cámara OscuraEnjoy extraordinary 360-degree views of the city using the large Cámara Oscura in the old town.

• Havana CathedralBuilt in the 18th century and redesigned in the 1940s, this church is a prime example of Baroque architecture in Cuba. Houses the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese in Cuba.

• Plaza de ArmasSpacious and elegant, the square is surrounded by baroque constructions that give it an authentic colonial milieu. It was laid out during the 1600s, replacing an old plaza which acted as the center of religious, administrative and military activity. Until the mid-18th century, it was used for military exercises and parades. After its remodeling between the years 1771-1838, it became a favored meeting spot for the city's wealthy. Today it is also known as Céspedes Park, in honor of the country's Founding Father, whose monument stands at its center. This square is one of the most outstanding in the city, enlivened by vendors of antiques and classical books on Latin American and world literature. Attractions of remarkable historical value lay around the square such as the capok tree (Ceiba) under which the first mass for the city's founding was officiated in 1519.

• The Royal Force Castle

  address: Plaza des Armas
  The oldest bastioned fortress in the New World, completed 1577. It now houses Cuba's premier maritime museum with excellent exhibits of Cuba’s maritime past, from pre-Columbian days through to the 18th Century with the Royal Shipyard of Havana, one of the largest in the world which built nearly 200 ships for the Spanish Crown. The museum includes a huge model of Santisima Trinidad, one of the largest ships in the world during the 18th century. The fort is also a great location for viewing the harbour and city skyline.

• Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

  address: Trocadero, btwn Agraminte and Av de las Misiones
  This museum has two parts: international and Cuban art. In the part of Arte Cubano art-lovers can spend hours admiring the works of the last centuries exhibited on three floors.

• Fortaleza de San Carlos de la CabañaA well-restored fort of the 18th century that holds two one-room exhibitions about arms and Che Guevara. Every evening there is a cannon ceremony where they fire over the Havana harbour. To get there take any bus (ex. from the Parque the la Fraternidad) that crosses the tunnel and get off right after it. Walk about 600 m to the entrance. On your way you can also stop at the smaller Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnis del Morro located right next to the tunnel.

• Colon CemeteryOne of the great historical cemeteries of the world, important in both historical and architectural terms. It's not possible to see much from behind the fence.

Outdoor activities

• Walk along the MalecónOn weekends this is where the locals come to party, so bring a bottle and join in.

• Walk down the Paseo del PradoA lively pedestrian zone full of locals spending their free time.

• Latin American New Cinema FestivalA popular event held every December, screening international films and drawing around 500,000 people.

• Bike tour, Discover Havana by bike

  phone: +535 5652579
  address: 117 San Francisco street, Centro Habana. Between San Lázaro St. and Jovellar St. Havana
  Citykleta offers you a wide range of shared or private bike tours, bike excursions and events in Havana through which you can get to know the city like no other..

• Take a tour in an old carBe driven around Havana in style. Choose a car you like near the Hotel Inglaterra or outside the Museum of the Revolution.

• Go to the eastern beachesThere is a bus leaving from Hotel Inglaterra every 30 minutes. The ride takes about 30 minutes.

• National Theater

  address: Paseo & Cl 39, Vedado
  Come here for concerts, the Ballet Nacional de Cuba and teatre. Functions are hold irregularly. Officially, Cubans pay 10 CUP and foreigners 10 CUC. Beware of scams as ushers try to sell you the same ticket for up to 25 CUC shortly before the function starts (and only paying the nationals price). Instead approach them and ask them to get you a ticket in CUP for a small commission in CUC or go to the box office to get it for the official price.

Live music

Nearly every restaurant and hotel in town has a decent house band playing old favorites.

• Hotel NacionalOften hosts big name talent such as Omara Portuondo. See also information below

• La Zorra y el Cuervo, La RampaA tiny little club below street level, they often host funky and amazing jazz musicians. Go there for something a little different.

• La TropicalA venue designed to hold several thousand people. It only opens for live music. Look around for signs in the streets publicising the next event.

• Casa de la Musica de Centro HabanaThe place to be if you like to dance Salsa. Check the program before you buy tickets, there are different top-rated Salsa bands playing every night.

• Museo del RonOffers a very nice outdoors 1950s Cuban music show called Buena Vista. You can watch it with or without dinner.

• Bertolt Brecht Cultural Center

  address: 258, 13th street, Vedado. Between I street and J street
  Go dance with Interactivo on Wednesday nights. Interactivo is a collaborative group of Cuban musicians, led by the pianist, singer and composer Roberto Carcasses.

• Tropicana ShowA cabaret 1950's show, a must-see show while you are in Havana.

• The University of Havana — Offers intensive Spanish courses from 1 week/20 hours (100 CUC) to 4 weeks/80 hours (360 CUC). Contact Professor Judith Portal .
• The Instituto Superior de Arte/Escuela Nacional de Arte/CNSEA offer courses of various lengths and levels in music, dance, drama, art and Spanish.
• Dance classes of Caribbean rhythms (salsa, reggaeton, cha cha cha, merengue, bachata) with professor Raul Pedroso for 7 CUC per hour. Contact: . Mobile: (53) 05 352463450.

Havana is a surprisingly expensive city to stay in; if you stay in hotels and eat in restaurants it can work out to be nearly as expensive as other popular international destinations. The problem is that Cuba has a dual economy - if you could live on Moneda Nacional pesos it would be incredibly cheap. As a tourist this is virtually impossible. Most CUP hotels won't take foreigners or, if they do, you have to pay in CUC. If you are on any kind of a budget it is advised to stay in casas particulares; it is much cheaper, often more comfortable and the food (a recurring theme in Cuba) is almost invariably better.
ATMs are not too hard to find in downtown Havana, but American credit- and debit-cards can not be used in Havana. Credit cards issued in countries other than the USA may be issued by a bank whose parent company is a U.S. corporation. In this case, the card will not work as the parent company is bound by U.S. law. Even banks wholly owned by non-American companies may have a policy on blocking Cuban transactions in order not to compromise their US business. Always check with your bank or credit card company before leaving home to see if your card will work in Havana. Also, the ATMs do not accept MasterCard/Maestro but are marked to accept Visa.
You can withdraw money from your MasterCard in a couple of exchange offices. There is one in the basement of the Hotel Nacional, but expect quite steep service fees.
Exchanging U.S. dollars in a CADECA (Casa de cambio) will incur a 10% penalty. Sterling, euros and Canadian dollars can easily be exchanged at Cadecas and do not incur the same fee.

Whilst CUC restaurants can be quite expensive at the top end for rather mediocre food, some such as the Café de Oriente have a splendid ambiance. The average government-run restaurants are about US$20 for two.

Budget

Peso stalls are all over the city, particularly on Prado Marti.
Some restaurants like Hanoi, in Calle Brasil, offer generous meals for 5 CUC.
With Cuban national pesos, you can get ice cream for only 1 CUP (US$0.04) in small street booths scattered around the city. You can also get a filling bocadito (small ham sandwiches) or a cajita (small meal in a cardboard box) for less than 20 CUP, or a "pizza" for 7-10 CUP.
Particularly, the Terminal de Omnibus, by the Plaza de la Revolucion, has a very good peso cafe with offerings as fried chicken for only 25 CUP.

• Coppelia Ice Cream parlour

  phone: +53 7 8326184
  address: 2111 Calle L
  Practically a Cuban institution with people waiting up to an hour to get a seat. Prices are in CUP and CUC (the queues being for the CUP area). CUP-paying sections cost 1 CUP per scoop (open till 21:15) and outdoor convertible-paying section costs 1 centavo (0.01 CUC) per gram (two scoops and up, which will costs you minimum 2.75 CUC; open 24 hours)

• Chan Li Po

  phone: +53 7 8704747
  address: Campanario 453 / Zanya & San Jose
  The restaurant is located upstairs, fully air-conditioned, looks immaculate. Despite being a Chinese restaurant, they serve European dishes too. Friendly service. About 4 CUC for one pizza. Cocktails are 2.5 CUC.

• Hanoi

  phone: +53 7 8671029
  address: Corner of Teniente Rey and Bernaza
  Old fashioned restaurant, with live music and no A/C. They even serve traditional Cuban food, such as black beans with rice.

Mid-range

Keeping your eyes open you can find complete menus (starter or salad, soup, main dish, dessert and a national beverage) for 6-10 CUC. In the Vieja, there are such restaurants in the smaller, not very crowded streets.
A least one paladar charges an hefty per-person service charge on top of your bill (10 CUC per couple at Paladar Amistad de Lanzarote in Central Havana) - deceivingly printed in Spanish only in a bilingual English/Spanish menu. Also no matter what the owner insists, there is never a tax levied for eating at paladares. Always ask before ordering.
There are many good, mid-priced restaurants in Chinatown. "Bavaria" is one of the best if you can picture a restaurant named after a German province pronounced like "barbaria" with Chinese decor, serving pizzas and spaghetti.

• El Aljibe

  phone: +53 7 204 1583
  address: Avenida 7ma
  In the Havana suburb of Miramar, El Aljibe is the definitive proof that food in Cuba needn't be bland. Try the house specialty, chicken in sour orange sauce. El Aljibe also has a remarkably well-stocked wine cellar.

• La Casa

  phone: +53 7 881-7000
  address: Calle 30 No. 865, Nuevo Vedado
  This stylish restaurant, located in Nuevo Vedado, is a large California-style house typical of the 1950s. The dining room and garden are inviting and intimate. The impeccable service and consistency uncommon in Cuba, are a must in Havana.

• Paladar La Tasquita

  phone: +53 7 873-4916
  address: Calle 27 de Noviembre (Jovellar No. 160) e/ Espada y San Francisco
  Located near San Lazaro, this Paladar (small, family-run, privately-owned restaurant) serves typical criolla food. You will be dining in the living room of a local family, so don't expect anything glamorous in terms of atmosphere. On the other hand, the staff is very friendly and you will get the opportunity to taste typical Cuban food as local families prepare it: Simply delicious. The seating is limited so reserve in advance.

• DNext Bar Cafetería

  phone: +53 7 8605519
  They serve mainly Italian food, sandwiches and cocktails. Prices start at 3.5 CUC. The establishment is fully air-conditioned and ideal for a quick meal.

• Los MarinosSeafood restaurant located on a pier in Havana harbour. A great place to relax with seafood and a beer or mojito looking at the city. On the big terrace the breeze from the water is pleasant on a warm day. Prices depends on the kind of seafood, you order. Lobster is the most expensive. The seafood paella is less expensive, has lots of good seafood in it, and you get a big portion.

• Castropol

  phone: +53 7 8614864
  address: Malecón (Avenida de Maceo) 107
  Restaurant with Cuban-Asturian food. Lots of great appetizers that also works as snacks with a cocktail. The atmosphere is cosy. In front of the restaurant is a small arcade with small cast iron tables and chairs, where you can have a drink (and a snack) and look over the water and study the steady stream of old US cars on Malecon (you just have to accept the noise from the cars too)

Splurge

The restaurants inside five-star hotels tend to charge excessive amounts of money for mediocre food and service.

• La Fontana Restaurant

  phone: +53 7 202-8337
  address: Ave. 3ra. A & 46, #305
  One of the most notable grill restaurants in Cuba. La Fontana has a refined yet sober home environment, suitable for a dinner with a touch of familiarity and a placid conversation, while enjoying exquisite dishes from its specialty, updated Cuban cuisine. Reservations essential.

Breakfast

All the tourist hotels serve breakfast, typically a buffet with a wide variety of good food, although overpriced (15 CUC at the Hotel Nacional). If you stay in a casa particular ask whether you'll be served breakfast. If not, ask the landlord/lady to take you shopping. Otherwise, there's almost no hope of finding a restaurant open for breakfast. One exception is the Chan Li Po Bar-Cafeteria, open at 09:00, in Centro Habana, near Chinatown, at Perseverancia #453 (between Zanja and San Martin).
Tipping
Local Cuban people earn very low wages of perhaps the equivalent of £15 (US$20) per month, in comparison to most Western incomes, so they tend to try hard to offer a good service in hotels, bars, cafes and restaurants. Many rely on tips to supplement their low incomes, so even a 1 CUC tip is often enough to make a difference. It isn't always expected, but if you received good service, then why not?

There are two types of establishments you can go to drink in Havana: Western-style CUC bars with near-Western prices, good selection of quality drinks (and sometimes food), nice decorations, semi-motivated staff and often live music, typically found around tourist hot-spots such as Old Havana and tourist hotels. Here you will mostly meet other tourists, expats and a few Cubans with access to hard currency, but don't expect a 'local' experience.
The alternative is to seek out local neighborhood bars where you can choose from a quality, but limited, selection of drinks (mainly locally produced rum by the bottle, beer and soft drinks, very rarely will you be able to get cocktails such as mojitos), cigars of dubious and cigarettes of only slightly better quality, and sometimes snacks. Local bars accept CUPs and are dirt-cheap, although bar keepers will often ask you for CUCs instead - it's up to you to negotiate an acceptable price. These bars are also a good way to meet locals who may even open up a bit and talk about their lives after a couple of drinks.
Local bars are not that hard to find despite typically having no prominent signs displayed outside. Just ask or walk around a local neighborhood and look out for a bare-walled, neon-lit run-down room without any decorations or furniture, save for a bar and a few rickety chairs and tables, sullen staff and depressed/bored/drunk-looking customers, almost always men. Contrary to Cuba's reputation as a music and fun loving nation, these places are not boisterous affairs - they are quiet, almost subdued, music is rarely played, and have the charm of third-world railway station waiting rooms.
Nonetheless, they make for a fascinating experience (especially if you make the effort to speak to some locals - offering to buy a drink will get a conversation going, no surprise there), and they provide a good insight into what life must be like for ordinary Cubans without hard currency. As a foreign visitor, you will be generally welcomed. Discussing politics over a drink is a tricky, and typically lose-lose proposition: speak negatively about the Cuban political system and you may put your Cuban drinking companions into a very difficult position as they may very well be informed on (for hanging out with subversive foreigners); enthuse about the Revolution, Che, Fidel, Cuba's health care system, sticking it to the Gringos, etc., and people will assume that you are at best naive or at worst not in full possession of your mental faculties.
You can have a great time just outside of the Hotel Inglaterra near the Capitólio Building, drinking good daiquiris and mojitos at an affordable price.

• La Bodeguita del Medio

  phone: +53 7 571375
  address: Calle Empedrado
  The bar in which to sample a Mojito. The former hangout of Ernest Hemingway, it is best sampled in the evening once the tourist crowds from Varadero have headed back out of the city.

• El Floridita Bar

  phone: +53 7 8671300
  address: Calle Obispo
  Another stop on the Hemingway drinking tour; best visited for its atmosphere, which is almost unchanged from pre-Castro days. Their daiquirís are however - certainly much to Hemingway's grievance - mediocre.

• Los Buccaneros Hanoi

  address: Calle Brasil and Bernaza
  With the front of the Capitol building on your right from the main street, walk about two blocks to the left on the road that runs parallel to the Capitol. There are two bars called Hanoi. Go to the first one Los Buccaneros.

• Factoría Plaza Vieja

  address: Plaza Vieja
  Brewpub located on the pretty Plaza Vieja. The pub has three main beers (light, dark and black), with seasonal additions. Beer cocktails, along with a meat-based food menu, also feature.

There are 3 main areas that travelers generally stay in: Old Havana is the liveliest (some would say hectic and dirty), Central Havana is slightly quieter and parts can be a bit seedy, and Vedado is the quietest with more greenery, and is the place to find the large hotels and nicer casas particulares.
Hotels vary. Do not be surprised if you have no hot water and bad TV-reception in a hotel that still goes to the effort of having an in-hotel doctor and hosting extravagant shows of synchronized swimming in the hotel pool.

List of casas particulares

• Casa "Todo de Aitana"

  address: 14 street, #51, between Linea Ave. and 11 street, Vedado
  Full appartment for 1-3 guest. The apartment is very nice, quiet and clean, with views to the sea and sunsets. 1 bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, nice balcony. You can reserve on Airbnb https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15798248/

• Ana y Chuchi

  phone: +53 7 861 1877
  address: Aguacate 513, Havana Vieja
  Very central place with a great host who gets out of her way to make people comfortable. Three rooms of different sizes. Small windows overlook patio, breakfast and dinner are enormous.

• Casa Mabel

  phone: +53 7 8635706
  address: Industria No. 270 (altos), between Neptuno and Virtudes, Centro Habana
  A very friendly family home. 2 comfortable rooms with balcony and great view for rent.

• Jorge Leon de la Hoz

  phone: +53 7 870 7723
  address: Neptuno No. 1218 (altos), e/ Mazon y Basarrate, Vedado Plaza
  A very friendly family home, close to the Universidad de la Habana. Room rates are negotiable depending upon the length of stay.

• Señores Elsa y Julio Roque

  phone: +53 7 860 1257
  address: Consulado No. 162, apto. 2 (between Colon and Trocadero)
  A very friendly couple rent rooms in their centrally located house, and help find other houses in case they're full. Both speak good English and offer helpful information. Reservations can be made by e-mail either in English or in Spanish

• Casa Olga

  phone: +53 7 863 5547
  address: Galiano No. 206 e/Virtudes y Concordia
  Olga rents her entire 2nd floor including full kitchen, living room and three beds (one double) for 25-30 CUC. She's extremely friendly and not pushy like other casa owners can be.

• Casa Lopez

• Señora Ivette FloresRents out three private rooms with air conditioning and independent entrances

• Casa Mireya

  phone: +53 7 209 13 54
  address: 47 Ave. #5211

• Casa Mra Cristina & Guillermo

  phone: +53 5 270 8449
  address: Calle 21 e/N and O - Building #15 Apartment 7-A, Vedado
  A very friendly family home with two university-aged children who speak English. 2 comfortable rooms with balcony and great view. Ask for "mi cafecita" in the morning on the balcony.

• Casa Ines

  phone: +53 7 870 0237
  address: Calle Segunda #559

• Casa de Jesus y Saida Valdez,Calle 24 #262, Apt #5

  phone: +53 7 830 7279

• Casa Cary

  phone: +53 7 863 1802
  address: Virtudes #511

• Casa de Lydia y Felix Pedro

  phone: +53 7 832 6223
  address: 15 St #456, Vedado

• Casa Particular Havana

  phone: +53 7 830 8007
  address: 28 St #270, Apt F (between 23 and 21), Vedado

• La Casa de Ana

  phone: +53 7 833 5128
  address: 17 St #1422, Apt 1 (between 26 st and 28 st), Vedado

• Alicia Beaton, Havana

  phone: +53 7 863 9616
  address: CRESPO No. 10, e/ San Lazaro y Malecon, Vedado
  This is very convenient hostel, located close to the Malecon and near the Park Central area. The pristine house and bedrooms are located on the third floor of the building. The owners to turn off the air conditioning if you are too cold.

• Casa Nora, Havana

  address: Calle 64 No. 4105 e/ 41 y 43, Playa
  Living room, bedroom and compact kitchen. George speaks wonderful English and has a wealth of information.

• Casa Nora, Havana

  phone: +53 7 830 9800
  address: Calle 27 No. 954 e/ 6 y 8 apt 4, Vedado, Habana
  Casa Nora is a lovely apartment right in the heart of Vedado. Her wonderful, friendly family makes you feel at right at home. Very safe area. The rooms are very big with AC and television, and they have an incredible view of Vedado and the ocean. Great food as well.

• Sra. Ivón de los Angeles Acosta

  phone: +53 7 879 1223
  address: Central no. 2 entre Conil y Tulipán, Nuevo Vedado, Plaza de la Revolucion
  Nice roof terrace just for you, great meals and super friendly hosts.

• Casa Tere

  phone: +53 8642689
  address: Consulado no. 303, entre Neptuno y Virtudes, Havana Center

• Casa 1932

  phone: +53 8636203
  address: Campanario 63 bajos entre San Lazaro y Lagunas, Havana Center

• Casa Milagros Diez

  phone: +53 53905001
  address: Calle Manrique No. 208 (bajos)

• Casa Xiomara Hernández

  phone: +53 7 8639398
  Calle Aguila No. 506 Derecha 2do. Piso -right entrance of the building, second floor; entre San Jose y Barcelona.

• Casa Lázaro

  phone: +53 78625657
  address: Villegas #427 between Teniente Rey and Muralla
  Old construction, very well preserved. Offers breakfast, dinner, taxi, and laundry services among others.

• Hostel Carpizon

  phone: +53 78610443,+53 52988568
  address: Street San Ignacio corner Obispo
  The hostel is composed by two houses each one located on very centrical places. Also you can enjoy of very comfortable rooms which include terrace and backyards.

• SIEMPRE HABANA

  phone: +53 78665871
  address: Calle Habana No 923 Altos, Habana Vieja
  Very lovely place with an amazing host (Belkis) who is very generous and helpful. Two rooms with two double beds and private bathrooms.

• Ricardo's Place

  phone: +5354000696
  address: 110 D'Strampes
  Private apartment with terrace (for guests only). Free breakfast. Kitchen. Air conditioning. Good water pressure. And Internet (extra fee, optional). Not a touristic area so the plus is “this is the real Cuba”. 20 minutes away from the center (Old Havana aka Habana Vieja). A bank, cafeterias, bars, mini markets, all at no more than 3 blocks away (literally). An indoor garage is also available at no extra charge.

Backpacker hostels

• Hamel Hostel

  address: 308 Hospital Street
  12-bed dorm.

• D Robles Hostel

  address: Escobar 161 E/animas Y Virtudes
  four-bed dorms

• Enzo's Backpackers Hostel

  address: 20 De Mayo Avenue 426 10th floor. Apartment 101
  A dorm with six beds

Mid-range

• Casa de Sergio and Miriam

  phone: +53 7 860 8192
  address: Luz 109

• Hotel InglaterraPaseo del Prado, Old Havana. A popular hotel with a restaurant for those wanting to stay closer to the action yet still in the comforts of a hotel.

• Hotel Mercure Sevilla Havane

  phone: +53 7 8608560
  address: Trocadero 55 e, Prado y Zulueta Habana Vieja

• Hotel Telegrafo

  address: Prado and Neptuno, Old Havana
  A popular hotel just around the corner from Parque Central, right next to Inglaterra. Renovated and now really nice inside, a welcome haven of peace away from Vieja.

Hotels

• Tryp Habana Libre Hotel

  phone: +53 7 8346100
  address: Calle L
  A Havana landmark in a good location, it's popular with tourists and journalists, has a good 24 hour cafe on site, and a business center with decent internet connections.

• Hotel Habana RivieraPaseo and Malecón, Vedado. Located along the Malecon, Havana's waterfront boulevard, this elegant hotel is considered a classic among Cubans. Its proximity to the historical-cultural center of Havana, makes this hotel the perfect place from which to explore the city. In the night time the Riviera offers excellent entertainment featuring both the exclusive Copa Room Cabaret and one of Havana's top restaurants.

• Hotel Nacional

  phone: +53 7 836 3564
  address: Calle 0 esq. 21
  Calle 21 and O, Vedado. Overlooking the ocean on the Malecón, this hotel is legendary, having hosted international VIPs for 30 years. Many years of neglect, coupled with an only partially successful renovation, have left the Nacional a step below its former glory. That said, some stay here and rarely leave the hotel, enjoying the restaurant, terrace, frequent live performances by renowned Cuban musicians, and enjoying the views while sipping Mojitos. But did you come to see Havana, or hang out in a hotel? Maybe some of both is called for. The hotel also has an excellent, albeit expensive business centre featuring CNN, internet access and a bar.

• Hotel Saratoga

  phone: +53 7 868 1000
  Corner of Prado and Dragones, Old Havana. Opened in November 2005, it is regarded as one of the higher quality hotels in Cuba.

• Hotel Parque Central

  phone: +53 7 867 1037
  address: On Neptuno
  Similar to the Saratoga in quality, and has a beautiful ground floor lobby and a rooftop swimming pool. The Torre wing may have the best rooms in Cuba, at least by Western standards. The lobby of the Torre is very good, in keeping with the main hotel lobby. Excellent breakfast buffet.

• Hotel Conde de Villanueva

  address: Calle Mercaderes esq. Amagura, Old Havana
  A beautifully restored colonial home, this hotel is the ultimate destination for a connoisseur of Cuban cigars; each room is named after a tobacco plantation, and, of course, all rooms permit smoking. Boasts an impressive cigar shop in the hotel, in addition to a (reasonably average) restaurant. Be warned, though: if you like to sleep late, there is a peacock that wanders around the courtyard that begins to make noise as soon as the sun comes up.

• Hotel Ambos Mundos

  address: Obispo esquina a Mercaderes
  Writer Ernest Hemingway stayed and wrote most of For Whom the Bell Tolls here, a fact which adds historical charm to this well-located hotel in Old Havana. The Plaza de Armas is a few steps away, and the establishment has an elegant and lively lobby where piano and jazz musicians perform.

• Hotel Park ViewColón 101. A popular hotel in the 1920s, the Park View is a small establishment just off Prado, close to the colonial centre of Old Havana and the seawall. It does not share in the historical or decorative charm of other Old Havana properties, but it is certainly a practical option for anyone interested in exploring Old Havana and traveling on a tighter budget.

• Hotel Plaza

  address: Ignacio Agramonte No. 267
  The Plaza is one of Havana’s oldest hotels. In addition to a beautifully restored interior and a great location near many places of interest in Old Havana, the hotel also has some interesting anecdotes. Albert Einstein once dined here, and Babe Ruth stayed at one of the suites, today a museum (where his bat has been preserved).

• Hotel Santa Isabel

  address: Baratillo 9
  Considered Old Havana’s flagship hotel, this establishment is one of the classier – and more expensive – colonial-era options in this part of town. The long terrace overlooking the Plaza de Armas, shared by 10 west-facing rooms, is one of the hotel’s most evident charms, as are its colonial appeal and a magnificent location.

• Hotel Meliá La Habana

  address: Ave. 3Era. E/ 76 Y 80 Miramar
  A modern five-star hotel with very big and comfortable rooms, and possibly the biggest swimming pool in Havana.

Diario de Cuba and Tribuna de La Habana are the local periodicals. The H Magazine + Guide is an interesting publication about Havana beyond common stereotypes.
The city code for Havana is 7. Prefix with 0 or 01 when calling from within Cuba.
Internet cafes can be found at ETESCA (the state telephone company) offices, in Hotel Habana Libre, Hotel Inglatera (cheapest but slowest), Hotel Nacional and at the Capitolio.
Wireless Internet access - some high-end hotels such as Hotel Parque Central sells wi-fi scratch cards at the rate of 8 CUC per hour, which can be used inside the hotel and works well with iPhone/iPod Touch.
The emergency number is 116. The information number is 113.

Havana is quite safe for a large city. Heavily dependent on tourism, Cuban police are everywhere and pay especial attention to spots where travelers congregate (Habana Vieja, El Malecón. etc.), so you don't have to be afraid of being accosted in the daytime. Prison sentences for crimes involving tourists are extremely harsh, a fact which residents are well aware of, which adds an extra layer of deterrence. At night, however, there have been muggings in the dark streets of Centro Habana. While this part of town is perfectly safe to explore in the daytime, and can be crossed safely while going to Habana Vieja or Vedado, it's best not go there at night. If you are going to walk, do so along El Malecón, where there are lights and a lot more people.
Be wary of hustlers (jinteros/as) offering to show you a nice bar or restaurant, or offering a tour of the city, as you'll be stuck paying hefty prices to cover their commission. Just walk away and continue walking—soon enough they will leave you alone. There are a few well established scams you should learn about in order to be prepared.
In local restaurants, ask for menus or prices before ordering anything; there can be special 'tourist price menus' that get pulled out after you have consumed food or drink.
When paying, it is recommended to give the exact amount of cash. If you don't have it, it is wise to state clearly how much money you are giving and how much you should get back. Otherwise, they might try not to give you your change back.
If you're male, expect to be accosted regularly by prostitutes and/or their pimps, especially in Habana Vieja. While it's illegal, the mandatory jail time for prostitution filled prisons so quickly that the government had little choice but to start looking the other way. The result is a steady, depressing stream of solicitations that can wear down even the most cynical traveler unless he's prepared for it. Particularly disheartening are the offers from young girls, some no more than 11 or 12. Accept this situation as a fact of life in modern-day Cuba—and don't contribute to it.
People on the streets try to sell you cigars, especially in Havana Vieja. Often they say (after asking when you arrived in Havana) that the "Cigar Festival" is on today or that there is a "Cigar Cooperativa", where people sell cigars in their homes for half the price. These are usually fake cigars and they try to push you to buy a whole box of cigars even if you just want to buy a few.
The air in Havana is very polluted because of old cars and factories. This will cause respiratory conditions to some visitors.

Embassies

• Canada

  phone: +53 7 204 2516
  address: Calle 30 No. 518 (esq. 7ma) Miramar, Playa

• China

  phone: +53 7 8333005

• Egypt

  phone: +53 7 2042441

• Greece

  phone: +53 7 2042854
  address: 7802 5th Ave.& 78 str.Miramar Playa

• Indonesia

  phone: +53 7 2049963, +53 7 2049618, +53 7 2040046
  address: 5ta Avenida # 1607 esq. a 18, Miramar

• Japan

  phone: +53 7 204-3355
  address: Centro de Negocios Miramar, Edi, 1-5 to. Piso, Ave. 3ra, Esq. a 80, Miramar, Playa

• South Africa

  phone: +53 7 204 9671

• United Kingdom

  phone: +53 7 214 2210
  address: Calle 34 no. 702 e/ 7ma y 17, Miramar, Playa

• United States

  phone: +53 7 839 4100
  address: Calzada between L & M Sts, Vedado

• Iran

  phone: +53 7 204 2950, +53 7 204 2675, +53 7 204 2597
  address: 5ta. Ave. No. 3002, Esq. a 30 Miramar, Playa

• Enjoy the beach in Varadero
• Taste some nature in the Valey of Viñales
• Isla de la Juventud
• Visit the French style city Cienfuegos, the small town Trinidad and the adjacent Topes de Collantes national park
• Go east to Santiago de Cuba