Hoy
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Hoy is the second largest of the Orkney Islands. The name means "high" and it's hilly and sparsely populated. The hills draw the clouds, drizzle and midges, and Hoy feels much more like the bleak Hebrides than the green, pastoral Orkneys. The northern part of the island is an important breeding ground for birds, and RSPB reserve. Together with nearby Mainland, Hoy encloses Scapa Flow, a wartime naval anchorage. Hoy is joined by a causeway to South Walls, so for practical purposes these constitute a single island.
Get in
There isn't an air service to Hoy. There are two ferry routes from Mainland Orkney, both operated by Orkney Ferries. The ferry from Stromness to , in the north of Hoy, is for foot passengers & bicycles only. May-Sept it runs 4 or 5 times a day M-F, twice on Sat & Sun, taking 20 mins. This ferry also calls at Graemsay.
To take a car to Hoy, use the ro-ro ferry from Houton to near the south end of the island. May-Sept it runs 6 times a day M-F, twice on Sat & Sun, taking about 40 mins. The ferry passes by the uninhabited little islands of Holm of Houton, Cava and Fara, then calls at Flotta before coming into Lyness. The first and last ferry of the day serves on South Walls, which is connected to Hoy by a roadway.
Get around
You need your own wheels, cycling is good (until the rain comes on). There's a community bus along the B-road, hourly M-F between Lyness and Longhope. Between Lyness and Moaness it only runs twice a day, to connect islanders to the Stromness ferry.
See
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address: Hoy Hotel, LynessMuseum of First and Second World War Naval History. Scapa Flow was a major British naval anchorage in both wars and the German fleet was scuttled there after WW1. The museum and visitor centre are being re-built, to re-open in 2020. Meanwhile there's a temporary exhibition within the Hoy Hotel, free. The hotel itself is likewise closed for re-building so there are no toilets, use the ferry terminal a mile away. Tues & Thurs in summer 2018 there were two-hour guided walks around the old naval shore base at Lyness; dates for 2019 are not yet known.
- Longhope Lifeboat Station: a lifeboat has been stationed here since 1874. You can visit Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00. In March 1969 tragedy befell this village when the lifeboat put out in a ranging sea to help a drifting freighter. It was lost with all eight men aboard, a quarter of the village population, while the freighter drifted onto rocks at South Ronaldsay and the crew scrambled to safety. Free, donations welcome.
- Hackness Martello Tower stands on the coast a mile east of Lyness ferry pier. It's open Apr-Sept daily 09:30-17:30, adult £6.
- Betty Corrigan's Grave is midway up the island road by the Water of Hoy. In the 1770s a sailor done her wrong. She took her own life and so wasn't allowed a church burial, so here in this lonely spot she lies.
Do
Ward HillThe highest point in Orkney Islands at 1570 feet, from which all but one of the islands can be seen.
Old Man of HoyEnjoy this spectacular 137m sea stack while you can. It was created late 18th C by erosion of the sea cliffs, and its crumbly sandstone is under continual attack by the sea and by rock-climbers' pickaxes. A painting of 1817 shows it as much wider, with a flat head and two stout legs straddling an arch, like Frankenstein's monster. (Dramatic scenes in Mary Shelley's original novel are set in the Orkneys.) A few years later, the Old Man suffered a stroke so only one slender half of him survives. You get a good view if you come to Orkney on the Scrabster-Stromness ferry, otherwise it's a stiff hike. First, cycle or drive to Rackwick along the little lane that branches off the B-road just south of Moaness. (On the way, note the Neolithic Dwarfie Stane.) It's then a clear and signposted but eventually steep path, 6 miles or 3 hrs round trip, to view the Old Man. The walk can be extended to the cliffs of St John's Head, allow an extra two hours.
- Cycle or walk around , the little farm island midway between Stromness and north Hoy. No visitor amenities or sights here, just make a quiet leisurely circuit of the island lane. Keep orbiting until the next ferry hoves into view.
- You can likewise cycle across , the little island east of Longhope, served by the ferry from Houton. The north end around the pier is industrial with a big oil terminal. Follow the lane south to escape into pleasant farmland.
Buy
- Wild Heather Crafts is open in summer M-Sat 09:30-16:30. Emily's ice-cream parlour is next door. They're half a mile north of Lyness.
Eat
- Beneth'ill Cafe near Moaness ferry pier is open in summer, daily 10:00-18:00.
Drink
- Royal Hotel is next to the ferry pier at Longhope. There's a bar with decent pub grub; they may have accommodation.
Sleep
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address: Hoy Outdoor Centre, KW16 3NJ32 bed hostel, run by Orkney Council, affiliated to the SYHA.
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- A few self-catering cottages on Longhope, including Cantick Head Lighthouse. The 19th C lighthouse is still active and you can't normally go in. The keeper's cottage sleeps 4 or 5, minimum stay 3 nights, Oct-Mar £120 / night and Apr-Sept £150.
- The Hoy Hotel is closed for building work. It may re-open in 2020.
Connect
Mobile signal is passable around the two ferry terminals - locals depend on this - but scratchy on the lonely road between. So it might come to sending a postcard from the Post Office north end of the island, near the Hoy Hostel.
Go next
Back to the Mainland either to Stromness or Houton.