Ilhabela

Ilhabela is considered one of the natural paradises of the São Paulo coast, along with Ubatuba (Ilhabela means literally "beautiful island" in Portuguese). It is known for its forest-covered mountains, its amazing beaches, its savage trails - and difficult not to mention, also its vicious sand flies.
In pre-colonial times, the largest island of the archipelago, São Sebastião, was called Maembipe by Native Brazilians, who used the island for trade and prisoner exchange. The island was discovered in 1502 by the Portuguese, and although settlement began shortly thereafter, the village of the island was officially founded only in 1806, with the name of Vila Bela da Princesa ("Beautiful Village of the Princess"). The municipality would finally be named "Ilhabela" in 1945. In 1977, the majority of the archipelago's area was declared a state park and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

To get to Ilhabela it is necessary first to go to São Sebastião (the city on the coast, not the island), where a ferry boat, located at the end of Al. São Sebastião (downtown) departs. The bus from São Paulo is about R$70, and ride sharing about R$35-40. There are buses from São Paulo that stop at the ferry boat point, if you are not up to walk 1 km from the São Sebastião intercity bus terminal.

• São Sebastião - Ilhabella Ferryboat terminal

  address: Av. Antônio Januário do Nascimento, s/n - Centro, São Sebastião
  From here you can catch a ferryboat to/from Ilhabela. Ferry boats depart every 30 min. between 06:00-00:00, and every 1 hour between 00:00-06:00. The duration of the crossing is 15 min. In high season, a queue of up to 1 hour for vehicles is not uncommon.

Since construction in Ilhabela is mostly restricted to the West coast of the São Sebastião island, there is really just one avenue and getting around, by bus or by car, should be simple. The coast has many slopes, making cycling not a very attractive option. Walking is fine, as there are plenty of sidewalks and other infrastructure for pedestrians, but the occasionally long distance between towns can be a problem.
Additionally, the municipality operates several bus services that run the length of the island (one-way R$4 without / $R2.50 with IC card). While not as comfortable as traveling by car, the bus provides a cheaper alternative for those looking to get around the island.
There are also a couple of non-pavimented roads that give access to remote points of the island, like the Castelhanos beach in the East coast. To reach the other side of the coast, you do not necessarily need a 4WD—the road is a proper but unpaved track. Note that only in the morning you are allowed to go west to east, and in the afternoon to go east to west on the Ilhabela-Castelhanos road, which is controlled by the national park staff at the entrance.
The rest of Ilhabela can only be reached by boat or by trails in the rainforest.

Northwest beaches

The beaches of the Northwest coast are easily accessible using the main avenue and the non-pavimented road in the north. Most have calm waters and are adequate for nautical sports. They occasionally suffer from pollution originated in the mainland.

• Armação

  address: Armação
  Suitable for windsurf and kitesurf. Contains a charming church, Capela Imaculada Conceição, and some kiosks and restaurants.

• Pedra do Sino

  address: Garapocaia
  One of the most famous beaches of Ilhabela, it gets its name from its rock formations, which produce a bell-like sound when they hit each other. With shallow and calm waters, and white sands surrounded by coconut trees.

• Ponta AzedaSmall and with calm waters.

• Siriúba

  address: Av. Leonardo Reale, 2986 - Siriúba
  Quiet beach surrounded by coconot trees, with calm waters.

• BarreirosBeautiful beach with 600 m extensions and calm waters. Before reaching the beach there is a nice view of the São Sebastião channel.

• ItaquandubaSmall and quiet beach, with calm waters. Mostly frequented by locals.

• PequeáClose to downtown and good for sailing. With bars and restaurants.

Southeast beaches

The beaches of the Southeast Coast are difficult to access and mostly desert. Many have strong waves, being indicated for surfing.

• CaveiraDiving point. Only accessible by boat.

• EnchovasOne of the most beautiful spots of the island. With thick and yellow sands, rocks and a river.

• IndaiúbaWith white sands and calm waters. Only accessible by boat.

• BoneteConsidered by the British Guardian to be newspaper one of the 10 most beautiful beaches of Brazil. With strong waves.

• Sailing and surfingIlhabela is called "the capital of sailing" for good reason, as the calm waters and strong winds between the main island and the continent are perfect for nautical sports such as sailing, kitesurf and windsurf.

• Scuba divingThere are a good number of places indicated for scuba diving.

• Boat ridesFor those who want a more relaxed time, an option are the boat rides to remote beaches, fishing spots and the smaller islands.

• Parque dos CastelhanosThe park gives access to the beach(es) on the other side of the island.

• WaterfallsThe Parque dos Castelhanos offers some refreshing waterfalls to take a dip right at its entrance. There is also a great bird observation tower. 4 km, 1 hr.

Trekking and mountain biking

Besides the full south, east, west jungle Bonete Trail, the island offers many shorter hikes, e.g. Pico do Baepi. Also, inside the island, trekking and mountain biking shall give plenty of adventure for those who seek it.

• Bonete Jungle TrailIf you need a brake from the constant Brazilian hassle and concern for your life, this is where you need to head. You can see monkeys, all kinds of birds, lush jungle forests, beautiful beaches, picturesque waterfalls, and take a dip in on of the many river pools. You should do the full trail, because you really do not want to take the bus twice. There are some camping site along the trail, both backcountry as well as serviced ones.
  South parking / bus stop to Bonete: 2-3 hr. Bonete to Praia de Indaiúba (private): 2 hr. Praia de Indaiúba to Castelhanos: 2 hr. Castelhanos to Cambaquara: 3-4 hr.
  Watch out, the trails are often very slippery (everything that looks green). Some claim that it is good to use a repellent against the sand flies, but instead of all those chemicals you are better off just using long clothes. The beaches are not really enjoyable due to the sand flies anyhow. Praia das Enchovas is deserted and rocky, no place to put up a tent.
  Download coordinates: GPX, KML.

• Pico do BaepiThe highest mountain on Ilhabela with great views.

• Cheiro Verde

  phone: +55 12 3896-3245
  address: Rua da Padroeira 109
  A reasonably priced option, specialized in seafood-based Brazilian dishes like moqueca and bobó de camarão.

• Cura

  phone: +55 12 3896-1311
  address: Av. Princesa Isabel, 337 - Perequê
  Self-service restaurant with 60 options of warm dishes. Pay per kg.

• Max Paladar

  phone: +55 12 3896-3700
  address: Av. São João, 243 - Perequê
  Traditional self-service restaurant in a rustic environment. Claims to serve 90% of the food with 0% trans fat.

• Praia do Bonete Ilha Bela

  address: Bonete

• Nautica NEMA

  phone: +55 12 7812-5634
  address: Bonete

• Quiosque do Alemão

  phone: +55 12 3894-7011
  address: Praia de Castelhanos - Castelhanos

• Me Gusta

  phone: +55 12 3896 1328
  address: Avenida Pedro Paula De Moraes, 690; Jardins

Camping, serviced and backcountry, is possible on the eastern side of the island. To find appropriate sites, checkout OpenStreetMap, which is used by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd (complex with many add-ons) and MAPS.ME (easy but limited). If you additionally find good spots to put up a tent, help other hikers by marking the place on OpenStreetMap.

Budget

• Camping Leo

  phone: +55 12 3896-6010
  address: Castelhanos, Ilhabela - State of São Paulo, 11630-000
  Basic campground. No electricity. Close to the beach. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Camping-do-Leo-1139666829424633/

• Chalés do Paolo Ilhabela

  phone: +55 12 3895-8503
  address: R. Florentino G Viêira Neto, 80 - Barra Velha
  Rua Florentino Garcia Viera Nerto, 80 - Barra Velha,

• Hostel Trópico de Capricórnio

  phone: +5511998281199
  address: Rua da Cocaia 741
  Inexpensive and laid-back hostel, about 1.5 km from the Ilhabela ferry station.

• Mirailha Pousada e Chalés

  phone: +55 12 3895-1359
  address: R. Pedro Luciano, 99 - Barra Velha
  Travessa Pedro Garcia, 99, Barra Velha,

• Sambaqui Hostel

  phone: +55 12 98250-4233
  address: Praia do Bonete
  Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sambaquihostel

Mid-range

• Hotel Costa Azul

  phone: +55 12 3896-1365
  Saco do Indaiá

• Hotel Ilha Flat Hotel

  phone: +55 12 3895-3000, +55 11 6858-4805
  Perequê

• Hotel Mercedes

  phone: +55 12 3896-1071
  address: Av. Leonardo Reali, 2222
  Praia do Viana,

• Hotel Pousada do Capitão

  phone: +55 12 3896-1037
  Av.Almirante Tamandaré, 272,

Splurge

• Real Villa Bella

  phone: +55 12 3896-1288
  address: Av. Força expedicionária Brasileira, 234
  Vila,

• Hotel Maison Joly

  phone: +55 12 3896-1201, +55 12 3896-2364
  address: Rua Antonio Lisboa Alves 278, na Vila

Ilhabela is, without doubt, a natural paradise, which can also mean hell for humans. The rainforest in the archipelago is well known for the borrachudos, a sand-fly-like insect whose bites will give you an excruciatingly itchy experience. Use a good quality repellent all the time, in every exposed part of your body including the bottom of your feet, in case you are wearing sandals or flip-flops. Or just wear long clothes to cover your body, instead of using all those chemicals.
Beach pollution problems have started to appear in the west coast of Ilhabela, and at some times of the year, some beaches may not be suitable for swimming. The water quality is weekly monitored by the state water agency (CETESB), so if you see a red flag of CETESB in the beach, don't go swimming (information also available online ).

Some bus stations in the center provide free WiFi. But just walking around will reveal other open and free WiFi spots.