Kelso (Scotland)
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Difficult to believe now, but the tiny village of Roxburgh five miles south was once an important settlement, and indeed briefly the capital of Scotland.
Get in
By plane: the nearest airport is Edinburgh, 50 miles (81 km) away, with a good choice of flights. Newcastle Airport is 62 miles away.
By train: the nearest railway stations are Tweedbank (17 miles), terminus of the Borders Railway, and Berwick-upon-Tweed (25 miles) on the East Coast Mainline.
By bus: Borders Bus 51 / 52 runs every two hours daily from Edinburgh along the A68, via the Royal Infirmary, Dalkeith, Lauder, Earlston, and St Boswells to Jedburgh / Kelso.
Bus 67 runs every two hours daily from Berwick-upon-Tweed west via Coldstream, Kelso, St Boswells and Melrose to Galashiels.
By car or bike from the north approach along A68 or A697 before branching onto the minor roads. A689 runs up the valley from Berwick-upon-Tweed via Coldstream to Kelso and Jedburgh.
Get around
The Abbey and Floors Castle are in town, and Roxburgh Castle is only a one mile walk. There's no bus along the road to Mellerstain House.
See
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address: Roxburgh St, Kelso TD5 7JDBuilt 1128-1143 by the Tironensian monastic order (who'd split from the Benedictines), this was once one of the wealthiest and grandest monasteries in Scotland. But it suffered repeated attack and destruction, and was in a poor state even before the 1560 Reformation. All that remains is the west tower and the transept, still a striking piece of Romanesque architecture.
- Kelso Square The largest market square in Scotland with well preserved 18th and 19th century architecture reminiscent if the low countries.
Floors CastleMain residence of the Duke of Roxburghe, largest inhabited house in Scotland and open to visitors in the summer months. Art collection, tea room, garden centre and country sports.
Roxburgh CastleRuins of a medieval castle established by David I and birthplace of Alexander III. Roxburgh Castle was strategically important from the 12th to the 15th centuries and the adjoining town of Roxburgh (of which there is now no visible trace) was an important royal burgh and centre of agricultural trade with Europe. The castle is in ruins and very little of the stonework is now visible. There is however an impressive earthwork mound topped by remnants of thick stone fortifications. Remnants of the main gate are visible to the west of the castle. Worth visiting in spring via a pleasant riverside walk by the river Teviot when the weather relatively clement and before an overgrowth of Nettles impedes access.
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address: 44 Newtown Street, Duns TD11 3AUA small exhibition about the motor racer Jim Clark (1936-68). It reopened in 2019 after refurbishment.
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Mellerstain House
address: Gordon TD3 6LGSumptuous 18th C pile constructed by William & Robert Adam. Set in extensive gardens. -
Smailholm Tower
address: Sandyknowe Farm, Kelso TD5 7PGThis was a "peel tower", a fortified turret that served as a lookout and signal tower against raiders. It was built circa 1500, fell into disrepair in the 18th C but was partly restored in the 1980s. Although there are opening hours and an entrance fee, you can pretty much see it gratis by looking over the fence.
Do
- Golf: Kelso Golf Club is just north of town, Schloss Roxburgh (see "Sleep") is four miles south.
Kelso RacecourseNational Hunt course with jumps races Sept to May.
- Kelso Sevens is a sevens-rugby tournament held in May, next is 2 May 2020.
- Civic Week is held in July with horse riding, sports competitions, pipe bands and general hoo-hah. The next is 11-18 July 2020.
- Border Union Show is a large agricultural show, running since 1813, held at Springwood Show Ground (aka Borders Events Centre). It's held on the last weekend in July with livestock judging, funfair and craft, food and drink stalls. The next is 24-25 July 2020. Border Union also organises the Championship Dog Show in June, same venue, the next is 20-21 June 2020.
Buy
- Kelso Pottery near to The Knowes car park has some interesting studio pottery for sale.
Eat
- Cheap eats in town centre are Ozkans Grill, China Red, The Cobbles, Lemon & Thyme, and Kelso Tandoori.
- The Contented Vine is an Italian at 60 Horsemarket, open M-Th 18:00-21:00, F-Su 17:00-21:00.
Drink
- Rutherford's Micropub on The Square is open M-Th 12:00-22:00, F Sa 12:00-23:00.
Sleep
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phone: +44 1573 224588address: Bowmont St TD5 7DZB&B with six rooms, friendly hosts, good value for money.
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phone: +44 1573 224563address: 7 Horsemarket TD5 7HETraditional pub with rooms near The Square, sometimes noisy.
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phone: +44 1573 223303address: 36 The Square TD5 5HLFriendly comfy old coaching inn.
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phone: +44 1573 224168address: Bridge Street TD5 7HTGeorgian mansion overlooking the River Tweed and Springwood Park, great views, comfort & service.
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phone: +44 1573 228899address: 24 Bridge St TD5 7JDCoaching inn established 1725, with contemporary decor, comfy & friendly.
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phone: +44 1573 450331address: Heiton TD5 8JZThe old Rox has been well restored into this upscale confection. With restaurant, golf, other country sports and facilities for pets.
Go next
Within the Borders, Dryburgh and Melrose Abbeys are a few miles west, and Jedburgh Abbey a few miles south.
St Abb's Head is a dramatic headland on the Berwickshire Cliffs.
Edinburgh to the north is a must-see.