Kirkwall

Kirkwall has two faces, depending on where you have just come from. If arriving from a large city such as Edinburgh or Glasgow, it is a small, quiet town, with a gentle pace of life. On the other hand, if you arrive from a more remote area, such as the outer islands of Orkney, Kirkwall seems like a buzzing metropolitan centre with shops, cafes, bars, traffic and areas of housing and industry sprawling south, east and west from its busy harbour.
The presence of cruise ships in Kirkwall can make a substantial difference to the town. Arrival of a 4000-person cruise ship over summer can cause queues to attractions and a jostle for space in the tea-rooms. If you can, time your visit to not be on a cruise-day, you'll find the town much calmer.
The Tourist Information Centre is at the bus station in town centre.

By plane

• is 5 miles (8 km) south-east of town. Loganair fly to Kirkwall from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen and Sumburgh in the Shetland Islands. They also operate inter-island flights to Westray, Papa Westray, Sanday and Eday. See "Orkney Islands: Get in" for more details.

By boat

There are four ferry routes between the Scottish mainland and Orkney. The only one to Kirkwall is the Aberdeen to Shetland car ferry, operated by Northlink, which calls here several nights a week. Northbound it leaves Aberdeen at 17:00 (Apr-Oct: Tu Th Sa Su, Nov-Mar: Th Sa Su not Tu), reaching Kirkwall Hatston Terminal at 23:00 before sailing on to Lerwick for 07:30 next morning. Southbound the ferry leaves Lerwick at 17:30 (Apr-Oct: M W F; Nov-Mar: W & F not M), similarly reaching Kirkwall at 23:00 before sailing on to Aberdeen for 07:00 next morning.
For practical details and tips on using this ferry, see Shetland Islands#Get_in. Points specific to Orkney are:

• Ferries to Kirkwall, from Aberdeen and Lerwick, are evening sailings arriving by 23:00, so you don't need a cabin, a lounge seat is fine. (But you need to have sorted your Orkney accommodation, as near midnight is a poor time to start looking.) Sailings from Kirkwall to Aberdeen or Lerwick are overnight so you'll appreciate the cabin, and ability to doze on board till 09:00.
• Motorists, check that you're in the correct queue of vehicles, otherwise you'll get locked in by vehicles going all the way to Shetland or Aberdeen.
• At Kirkwall you need to disembark promptly, as the ferry will soon sail on.

is 2 miles north of town on the main road to Stromness: look for the very large wind turbine. Check-in for vehicles is at the start of the pier, check-in for foot passengers is at the end. A late-night connecting bus X10 runs from Kirkwall right to the end of the pier, back to Kirkwall, then on to Stromness - it doesn't run if the ferry's not running. Bus X1 Stromness-Kirkwall-St Margaret's Hope also passes the junction for the terminal, but the last bus is a couple of hours before the ferry.
The other three routes, described under Orkney Islands#Get_in, are:

• Scrabster to Stromness car ferry 2 or 3 times a day, 90 min;
• Gill's Bay to St Margaret's Hope car ferry 3 times a day, taking an hour;
• John O'Groats to Burwick ferry for foot passengers and cyclists only, 2 or 3 times a day May-Sept, 40 min.

Kirkwall is also the starting point for ferries between Mainland and the islands of Shapinsay, Stronsay, Eday, Sanday, Westray, Papa Westray and North Ronaldsay - see those islands for details. These sail from the piers in town centre, not from Hatston Terminal. For ferries from Stromness and Tingwall see Orkney Islands: "Get around".
Cruise ships often visit the Orkneys. They either berth at Hatston Terminal with a shuttle-bus to town, or anchor out in the bay with tenders bringing passengers ashore. The main tourist attractions get mobbed when they arrive.

By bus

June to August there's a daily bus from Inverness, which meets the John O'Groats foot-passenger ferry to Burwick, from where there's a connecting bus to Kirkwall: see Orkney Islands: "Get in".
For bus services around Mainland, see "Kirkwall: Get around".

By car

Kirkwall has numerous car parks located in the town centre and harbour area. Parking around the harbour is free and mainly unlimited time, so it is the best place to park if you are exploring the town for a whole day. However, there can be a lack of parking in the town, even in the pay car parks.
Car parks are charged at:

• Summer: 1 hour - 40p, 2 hours - 80p, 3 hours - £1
• Winter: 1 hour - free, 2 hours - 50p, 3 hours - £1

Buses are operated by Stagecoach. Most of the Orkney Mainland buses run via Kirkwall. They are geared to shoppers and school-run, and there may be long gaps in the schedule mid-afternoon. A day-ticket costs £9 adult - worth it if you're doing more than a simple return. Drivers give change within reason. No bikes on the buses. The principal services are:

• Bus X1 runs right across Mainland east from Stromness, Stenness (near the stones) and Finstown to Kirkwall, then south across the Churchill Barrier past the Italian Chapel to Burray and St Margarets Hope ferry terminal. It doesn't go as far south as Burwick ferry terminal. It's hourly between Stromness and Kirkwall, every two hours or so south of there.
• Bus 4 runs between Kirkwall and the airport every 30 min M-Sa, hourly Su, taking 10-15 min. This one is regular, Su-F 06:15-19:15, Sa till 16:15 when the last flight comes in.
• Bus 2 runs from Kirkwall via Scapa and Ophir to Houton, terminal for the ferry to Hoy (Lyness) and Flotta. Five or six daily, 20 min. Also bus 5 runs from Houton to Stromness.
• Bus 6 runs every couple of hours from Kirkwall via Finstown to Tingwall, for the Rousay, Egilsay and Wyre ferries, 20 min. Only the first and last buses of the day continue round the coast to Birsay, so they're impractical for sight-seeing. You might get there on Bus 7, twice per afternoon, which runs from Kirkwall to Finstown then across the fields to Birsay, then on to Stromness.
• There's also X10 to the ferry terminal (see "Get in"), Bus 3 via the airport to Tankerness, Toab and Deerness, and Bus 9 which circles town.
• A circular tour bus Stagecoach T11 is advertised but doesn't appear to be running in 2018.

Taxi firms: see list under "Orkney Islands: Get around".

The most attractive part of Kirkwall is the central alley, which starts as Bridge St by the harbour, turns along Albert St, then widens into Broad St with the Cathedral and palace ruins. The Kirkwall City Pipe Band often parades here on a Saturday evening. The street then narrows again to the alley of Victoria Street. Just west of the centre, circumnavigate the Peedie Sea: once a tidal inlet, it's now been enclosed into two freshwater lagoons. (Well, 2.1 if you count the little overflow pond.) Beyond the centre, Kirkwall is a modern and work-a-day place, with various marine industries sprawling along the shore.

• St Magnus Cathedral

  address: Broad Street KW15 1NX
  It was founded in 1137 but took 300 years to complete. It is an impressive Romanesque building with alternating courses of sandstone: red from Kirkwall and yellow from Eday. Probably the builders were the same as for Durham and Dunfermline cathedrals. The interior is atmospheric, dominated by red circular columns and multi-coloured textile hangings. This is a working church so it's closed to tourist visits for services, funerals, etc. It started out as part of the RC Archdiocese of Trondheim but is now a Presbyterian parish church, so ecclestiastically it's no longer a cathedral.

• Bishop's & Earl's Palaces

  address: Watergate KW15 1PD
  Two ruins either side of the street. Enter the Earl's Palace, the newer one, first for tickets. The Bishop's Palace was built in the 12th century at the same time as the cathedral, but fell into ruin. It was restored and extended in the 16th century by Bishop Robert Reid, founder of Edinburgh University. Ownership then passed to the wicked, wastrel Earls of Orkney, and in the 17th century Earl Patrick decided that it wasn't grand enough, and set about building a new palace next door. He couldn't remotely afford it, even by the stratagem of lynching the landowner instead of buying the land, and by using slave labour.

• Orkney Museum

  address: Tankerness House, Broad Street KW15 1DG
  For 3 centuries this was the home of the Baikie family from Tankerness. It now houses exhibits on Orkney from the Stone Age to the present.

• Orkney Wireless Museum

  address: Kiln Corner, 1 Junction Rd KW15 1LB
  In the early 20th century radio technology developed rapidly, and was a lifeline to remote islands like South Ronaldsay. Jim MacDonald (1927-1988) grew up there and amassed a great collection, including rare prototypes and secret-squirrel military kit. And here they are.

• Highland Park Distillery

  phone: +44 1856 874619
  address: Holm Road KW15 1SU
  The world's most northerly Scotch whisky distillery (just edging nearby Scapa Distillery), producing some 2.5 million litres a year for blend and a variety of single malts. These are more peaty than the Scapa whisky. Founded in 1798, it's now owned by Edrington Group of Glasgow, who also produce Famous Grouse, Cutty Sark, Macallan & Glenrothes, as well as vodka and rum. Longer & pricier tours than the basic involve sampling more whisky: so imagine the £250 tour?

• Scapa Distillery

  address: KW15 1SE
  Founded in 1885, though with occasional lapses in production, the present facility dates from 2004/5 and turns out a million litres a year for blend or single malt. It's only slightly peaty, the chief single malt bottling being the Scapa 16 year old. Short tour £10, 45 min, long tour £20, 90 min, booking recommended. The distillery is today part of Chivas which is part of Pernod Ricard.
• Grain Earth House is an Iron Age chamber, circa 1000 BC, entered by a 5-m underground passage. It was probably part of a larger settlement now engulfed by Hatston Industrial Estate on the north edge of town. Free to enter, but you need to collect keys from (and return them to) Judith Glue's Knit Shop at 25 Broad Street during business hours (M-Sa 09:00-21:00, Su 10:00-18:00). The chamber is at the corner of Swordfish Rd and Dakota Rd, Kirkwall KW15 1GR.
• Wideford Hill Cairn: Maeshowe all booked out? This stone cairn is of similar construction and quality yet no-one else will be there. Built around 3000 BC, it has a central chamber with three cells to the side; nowadays you enter through the roof. It's set into the hill two miles west of Kirkwall (KW15 1TS), follow Old Finstown Rd not the main road. Free to enter, any time.
• Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn, is a similar but smaller burial chamber from 3000 BC. You'll need to crawl down the passageway into the chamber. It's a mile further west along the Old Finstown Rd (KW17 2EJ), almost coming into Finstown village. Free to enter, anytime.
• Rennibister Earth House, circa 1000 BC, is a stone-lined underground chamber accessed by a hatch and a ladder. In it were found the bones of six adults and a dozen children, who may have been interred later. It's 3 miles (5 km) west of Kirkwall (KW15 1TX) on A965 towards Finstown, bus stop "Rennibister", in a farmyard. Free to enter, any time.

• Norwegian Constitution DayTo celebrate Orkney's historical ties with Norway, Norwegian Constitution Day is celebrated every year with a parade and guests from Norway.

• St Magnus International FestivalOrkney's midsummer celebration of the arts. Founded in 1977 by a group including the late Sir Peter Maxwell Davies, the Festival has grown from small beginnings into one of Britain's most highly regarded and adventurous arts events. The next event is 19-25 June 2020.

Kirkwall has a good range of craft shops, and look out for the local Orkney Fudge.

• Ortak Jewellery, Garrison Rd KW15 1RH
• Longship, 13 Broad St KW15 1DH, has knitwear and other local crafts
• Orcadian Bookshop 50 Albert St KW15 1HQ

Supermarkets: shop like a local at Tesco, Lidl or Co-op, all side-by-side on Pickaquoy Road A963, 400 yards (360 m) south of the bus station. There's another Co-op in the centre of town.

Takeaways include Harbour Fry and International Chip Shop, both on Bridge St, and Willows Chinese on Willow Rd.

Cafes

• Strynd Tearoom The Strynd +44 1856 871552, M-Sa 10:00-16:00. A cosy tearoom in an alley beside the cathedral, good cakes.
• Kirkwall & St Ola Community Centre Broad St +44 1856 871552, M-Sa 09:00-16:00. Popular cafe opposite the cathedral.
• Trenabies 16 Albert Street, M-Sa 08:30-17:30 & Su 11:30-15:30.
• Cafelolz@21 21 Albert Street, M-Sa 10:00-16:30, Su 11:00-15:00.
• Pomona Cafe 9 Albert Street, M-Sa 08:00-17:00, Su 10:00-16:00.
• Wrigley and The Reel, 6 Broad Street, M-Sa 09:00-18:00, Su 10:00-17:00. Coffee and music shop.
• Well Park Garden Centre KW15 1NE.

Restaurants

• Dil Se

  phone: +44 1856 875242
  address: 7 Bridge Street KW15 1HR
  North Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine.
• Busters Diner 1 Mounthoolie Place, daily 16:30-20:30.
• Empire Chinese 51 Junction Rd, daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-23:30.
• Orkney Hotel, Kirkwall Hotel and Ayre Hotel all have good restaurants, see "sleep" listings.

As well as the local whisky, try the beer brewed at Orkney Brewery, on the north Mainland near Skara Brae.

Budget

• Kirkwall Youth Hostel

  phone: +44 1856 872 243
  address: Old Scapa Road, KW15 1BB
  Hostel with 56 beds including 21 twin bed rooms. In weary old wartime prefabs, but good facilities and small rooms.

• Orcades Hostel

  phone: +44 1856 873745
  address: Muddisdale Road
  A high quality, family-run hostel. All of the rooms are en-suite and the kitchen and living room are stylishly decorated. Especially nice double rooms.

Mid-range

Lots of small B&Bs in Kirkwall. All the hotels are independent & family-run, with no chains. There's no stand-out "Splurge" hotel, but prices can be steep in mid-summer peak periods.

• Avalon House

  phone: +44 1856 876665
  address: Carness Road, KW15 1UE
  Small B&B at north edge of town.

• Albert Hotel

  address: 7 Mounthoolie Place KW15 1JZ
  Decent friendly hotel, with bar & restaurant.

• Ayre Hotel

  phone: +44 1856 873001
  address: Ayre Rd KW15 1QX
  Comfy spacious hotel, probably top choice in Orkney.

• Kirkwall Hotel

  phone: +44 1856 872232
  address: Harbour St KW15 1LE
  Family-run 36 room hotel.

• Lynnfield Hotel

  phone: +44 1856 872505
  address: Holm Road KW15 1SU
  3-star hotel on south edge of town next to Highland Park distillery.

• Orkney Hotel

  address: 40 Victoria St KW15 1DN
  3 star in 17th-century building.

• Apartment 76

  address: 76 Junction Rd KW15 1AR
  A self-catering first floor apartment, sleeps four (one double, two singles). The same firm lets five other apartments around Orkney.

Out of town

• The Foveran

  address: KW15 1SF
  Family-run restaurant with rooms - eight of these, en suite.

• Horrie Farm Holiday Apartments

  phone: +44 1856 861296
  address: Garralanga Rd Tankerness KW17 2QU
  Two spacious apartments surrounded by farmland teeming with wildlife.
• Scapa Flow Lodges are on Scorradale Rd near Orphir.

Kirkwall is within easy reach of the rest of Orkney. The top sights on Mainland are Stenness with its neolithic remains, Stromness the old fishing port, and the road across the "Churchill Barrier" past the Italian Chapel.
Beyond Mainland, visit one of the other islands for a tranquil contrast: Shapinsay is the closest.
And then either continue north to Shetland, or return south to the Scottish mainland - which you'll have to do to reach the Hebrides and other Scottish islands.