Leverburgh
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Leverburgh is the main village on South Harris. The main road A859 follows the west coast, running from Tarbert through Seilebost, Borve, Scarista and Northton to Leverburgh, continuing south to Rodel. A narrow lane twisting along the east coast is known as the "Golden Road" for the expense of building it.
Until 1920 the village was called "Obbe" (Gaelic An t-Òb, from the Norse word for a bay), but was then renamed for William Lever, 1st Viscount Leverhulme (1851-1925), the soap tycoon. He'd bought up all of Harris and Lewis and had grand plans for their industrial development, but he had no time for crofting or rural resettlement. On Lewis this caused a great falling out, and he pulled out of investment there. On Harris there were fewer such tensions and he established a fishing port and fish processing works in Leverburgh. The project stalled after his death in 1925, though "Mac Fisheries" continued in business until 1979.
Get in
Leverburgh is 20 miles from Tarbert along the A859. Road signs use An t-Òb, but bus and ferry timetables use Leverburgh.
By boat: most visitors arrive on the ferry from Uig on Skye to Tarbert on Harris.
Calmac car ferries sail four times a day between Berneray and , taking one hour. Berneray is linked by road to North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist.
The other ferry route is from Ullapool on the mainland to Stornoway on Lewis then south by road.
By bus: There are five buses M-Sa between Leverburgh and Tarbert, taking 45 min. Most continue to Stornoway on Lewis, another hour.
A linked bus & ferry service runs up the Western Isles through Barra, the Uists and Harris and across Lewis to Stornoway, so M-Sa it's possible to go the whole way in one day. To do so northbound you need to set off from Castlebay on Barra at 06:20, but for Harris you could leave it till 10:20, passing Lochboisedale South Uist at 13:20, Benbecula at 15:00 and Lochmaddy North Uist at 15:30 to reach Leverburgh at 17:00 and Tarbert at 17:30. Going south, you need to leave Tarbert at 10:45 to go the whole route, Leverburgh at 11:30, Lochmaddy at 13:45, Benbecula at 14:25 and Lochboisdale at 15:25 reaching Castlebay at 17:35.
Get around
Bus W10 is the Western Isles "spine route" from Barra. It runs along the west coast of Harris on A859, from Leverburgh via Northton, Borve, Seilibost, Luskentyre turnoff, and Golden Road turnoff into Tarbert, 45 mins. It continues across north Harris to Stornoway. There are six per day Mon-Sat.
Bus W13 runs up the east coast lane from Leverburgh via Rodel, Ardslave and Geocrab then either direct to Tarbert or meandering through Grosebay and Drinishader. Two run Mon-Sat, another four are school buses.
Harris Cycle Hire is based at Sorrel Cottage, Leverburgh, see "Sleep".
See
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St Clement's Church
address: RodelFine church dating from the 15th century. -
phone: +44 1859 520258address: Northton (An Taobh Tuath), HS3 3JASmall museum with exhibits on Harris history and wildlife, plus archives for genealogy research.
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address: NorthtonUnmanned exhibition about an ornithologist.
- is one of the best beaches anywhere on earth, pity the water's freezing. It's reached by a winding little lane that branches off A859 above Loch Fincastle. The island seen a mile to the west is Taransay, normally uninhabited, but there are occasional campers (who need their own boat), and in 2000 it was the location for the BBC series Castaway.
Do
- Drive or cycle the Golden Road, the switchback lane along the east coast from Rodel up to Tarbert.
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phone: +44 1859 550226address: ScaristaThe Isle Of Harris Golf Course is 9 holes amidst glorious scenery. Open M-Sa and you can often just turn up and play, but Tues & Sat in summer may be booked out to tournaments, check the club fixture list.
- Visit St Kilda. Leverburgh is the closest port for day trips, in summer but only in calm weather. Booking essential: you need to make yourself available for a two day slot and the boats sail on the first suitable day of that slot. It's a 3 hour crossing, giving you 4-5 hours ashore on Hirta the main island, plus a circuit (non-landing) of the other islands, eg Boreray with its sea stacks and swirling birds. No dogs, check the operators' websites for other rules eg minimum age, and take your own packed lunch. Operators are:
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address: 5 Ferry RdDay trips to St Kilda May-Sept, leaving Leverburgh at 08:00 and returning for 19:00.
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phone: +44 1859 502060Based in Tarbert but sailing from Leverburgh to St Kilda mid-April to Sept, leaving at 07:30 and returning for 19:30.
Buy
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address: An Clachan HS5 3TSCommunity-owned co-op, selling groceries including local specialities, newspapers (arriving mid-afternoon), fishing rods and flies, DIY supplies and crafts. Filling station 24 hours.
Eat
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phone: +44 1859 520225address: Ferry Pier HS5 3UBDoes lunches and evening meals, dogs welcome, booking advisable for summer evenings.
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Butty Bus
phone: +44 7899 786574address: Pier Rd HS5 3UFFriendly cafe next to ferry pier. -
phone: +44 1859 520779address: 36 Northton, HS3 3JABakery & takeaway shack does hot pies, pastries and soup. Fillings include local seafood, rabbit, mutton and venison, with some gluten-free or vegetarian.
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phone: +44 7876 340416address: Northton HS3 3JASmall cafe in a great setting, one of the few places open on Sunday. New owners from June 2019.
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phone: +44 1859 530268address: 4 Geocrab, Isle of Harris HS3 3HBIt's meant to be an art gallery, but visitor reviews suggest the coffee & brownies are selling better than the oils.
Drink
As the Rodel hotel has closed the nearest bars are in Tarbert.
Sleep
Budget
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phone: +44 1859 520251address: Ferry Road, LeverburghA comfortable and clean hostel, located near the ferry landing in Leverburgh.
Mid-range
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phone: +44 1859 520316address: Leverburgh HS5 3TLSmall friendly B&B. Dogs welcome.
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phone: +44 1859 520400address: 1A Strond, Leverburgh HS5 3UDGood quality welcoming B&B open April-Oct. No dogs.
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phone: +44 1859 520319address: 2 Glen Kyles, Leverburgh HS5 3TYFriendly comfy B&B, dogs welcome, does bike hire.
Splurge
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phone: +44 1859 550238address: Sgarasta Bheag, HS3 3HX6 room luxury informal hotel. Has WiFi, but no TV. Open to non-residents for dinner but reservations are required.
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address: Leverburgh HS5 3TS5-bedroom house open all year but no longer a B&B, now just does self-catering.
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phone: +44 1296 658681address: Ardslave, Isle of HarrisTraditionally built Hebridean Croft House provides self catering accommodation, 2 bedrooms sleeps 6, let weekly Sat-Sat.