Liepāja
Understand
Liepāja city consists of two main areas of interest: the city center, and Karosta, the northern part of the city, which used to be a secret Soviet military town. The city center and Karosta have great beaches, and you will be surprised how unspoiled and beautiful the central beach is, and how white and soft the sand is. Karosta is essentially another city, because it really has a different history and look from the rest of Liepāja; Karosta is worth a separate visit. In Liepāja there is no "old town", but the center and surroundings are full of beautiful old wooden buildings, small irregular streets, etc. The center also includes the Seaside Park (Jūrmala Park) area, which has a fantastic white, soft sand beach; the park itself is great, too, with many nice buildings. Liepāja is known in Latvia as "the city where the wind is born", because of the continual sea breeze.
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phone: +371 29402111, +371 63480808address: Rožu iela 5/6Also has bicycles for rent.
Get in
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By bus
Liepāja is connected by bus service with Riga (many times every day, €8.55, 3-3.75 hr), Ventspils, Kuldīga and other towns and villages in Liepāja region, as well as Klaipėda (2 hours) and Palanga in Lithuania. To get from the bus station to the centre, take the tram at a tram stop which is on your right side when you exit the bus station building. Do not cross the railway tracks – this is the wrong direction.-
By train
The Liepāja railway station is located in the same building as the bus terminal. Trains to and from Riga run once per week only. The train leaves Riga on Fridays at 18:25, arriving in Liepāja at 21:44. The train back to Riga leaves on Sundays at 17:30, arriving in Riga at 20:43. Ticket costs €7.20. The train also stops in Skrunda, Saldus, Biksti, Dobele, Jelgava and Olaine.By car
There are two main roads to Liepāja. From Riga, the A9 runs westward for 220 km. From Klaipėda in Lithuania, the A11 runs north for 100 km. From Ventspils, on the coast further north, take the P111.By boat
A ferry service connects Liepāja with Travemünde (near Lübeck) in Germany. The ferry terminal is in Ziemelu priekspilseta, northwest of the main bus station, and 15 minutes from the centre by bus 10, 11, or 15, or minibus 3. If you have a yacht, you are welcome to Liepāja yacht harbour, located in the centre, in Tirdzniecibas channel.By thumb
It is possible to hitch-hike in Latvia and if you want, you should try it for Liepāja, too. To get out of the city to go somewhere else, go to the north tram terminus, cross the railway crossing, and you are in the best spot to hitch-hike to Riga or Ventspils, or go to the south terminus, walk 400 m until the city ends completely, and you are in a good spot to hitch-hike to Klaipėda.By plane
AirBaltic is the only airline serving Liepāja Airport with flights to and from Riga International Airport three times per week (Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from Riga at 23:25 and Monday, Wednesday and Friday from Liepāja at 05:45). From Riga International Airport, which is the largest airport in the Baltic states 220 km east of Liepāja, many direct flights to Europe and Asia, including cheap Ryanair, airBaltic and Wizz Air routes, are available. Palanga airport in Lithuania is another option 65 km to the south with scheduled services year round.
City bus 2 connects Liepāja Airport with the city centre and is well connected with arriving/departing flights (see timetables here).
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Get around
By tram
There is only one tram line running from Ezerkrasts (lakeside) residential district in the southeast to the west, then north through the center to Jaunliepaja, and ends near the metallurgic factory. It operates from 05:00 till midnight. Tram is the best transport to get to/from the railway/bus station to/from the city center. A ride from the center to the station takes approximately 8 minutes. An electronic tram ticket is also available by sending SMS, but this might be complicated for those who don't have local mobile phones.By bus
There are many bus routes, the most important for tourists being 1, 3, 4, 7 and 8 – with these you can get from the city center to Karosta and back. You can get to the southeastern part (Ezerkrasts) to see Meynard's church and Liepāja Lake by 3, 4, 10, 15, 912. Costs €0.81 from the driver or €0.57 in shops and newsagents' boutiques. There are bus stops throughout the city. Tickets can be bought in kiosks or from the driver. Ticket must be validated in the bus by inserting it in an electronic validator as in the trams. Some buses have an audio announcement system for the next stop and a LED screen in front of the bus displaying next stop name. When going to Karosta you will most likely want to go right to the last stop, so don't worry. An exception might be bus number 8, which terminates far north in summer house and garden district Skede near the sea, which is kind of too far for Karosta, however is the best bus to get as far as the Jewish Holocaust memorial or the Northern fortress. Liepāja city is relatively big for Latvian city sizes. For example, to go from the center to Karosta by bus 3, you will need approximately 35 minutes and the distance will be around 10 km.By minibus
Number 22 and 23 minibuses serve Karosta, however 23 only goes to Karosta swing bridge and you can end up waiting by a closed bridge for an hour or more. It is therefore recommended to take route 22, which will take you further into Karosta and, if the bridge is closed, will sometimes go around the channel to get there. They cost €0.57 from a shop or €0.81 from the driver. Tickets must be validated just like in trams or buses. To stop a minibus, you have to wave your hand. You can stop it only at bus stops. To stop a minibus when you are in it, you have to ask the driver.By taxi
Taxis are relatively expensive compared to other types of transport, but still cheaper than in Western Europe. This is the only public transport available at night (approximately 00:30-05:00). There are some places in the city center and near the Bus/Railway station where taxis assemble, or you can call +371 63422222, +371 63466666 or +371 63488888.By thumb
Especially getting to or from the Northern Forts can be achieved by hitch-hiking, which is about 5 km. It is probably best to walk from south (Karosta) to north (Northern Forts), to also cover the fortress north of the breakwater, and to try hitch-hiking back into the centre of Liepāja with one of the many cars that go south. There are many cars and during the day one local might just be curious enough to take you in for the ride.Talk
See
Amber clockActually a sundial-shaped design object, is on the promenade, and is created from thousands of pieces of amber, donated by anyone who wanted to do so. The sundial shows time every hour on the hour, by a special light performance. The performance can be seen much better, when it is dark outside.
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phone: +371 26541424address: Dārza iela 4/8Latvian craftwork in the former home of the mayor Schröder. See the longest amber necklace in the world (123 m or 403 ft), weighing almost 20 kg (44 lb). You can also watch weavers working a creating beautiful tablecloths, skirts etc. Also, craftsmen workshops, demonstrations of crafts, and exhibitions.
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phone: +371 63422973address: 16, Kurmajas Avenue
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Liepāja During Occupational Regimes
phone: +371 63420274, +371 29605223address: 7/9, K. Ukstina Street The Oskars Kalpaks BridgeThis iconic swinging metal bridge to Karosta is often opened to make way for ships. Designed by the German engineer Harald Hall and built in 1906. Check out the times at the bridge when the bridge is closed and ships are let through.
Churches
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phone: +371 63422208, +371 20360055address: Lielā 9Has a 55 m (180 ft) high tower, which is a perfect sightseeing place. It also has a huge church organ, made of more than 7000 pipes, which was the biggest organ in the world till 1912. It is still the biggest in Latvia and one of the biggest and most beautiful in Europe.
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phone: +371 63423384, +371 63424231address: Veidenbauma iela 1Built of red brick and the oldest of Liepāja's churches. The organ is the third biggest in Latvia. First mentioned in 1508 with a 9.70 m high wooden baroque altar from 1697. The tower can be climbed.
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St. Joseph's Cathedral
phone: +371 63429775address: Rakstvežu iela 13The biggest Catholic church in Liepāja. Built of yellow bricks, with many small towers. There is a ship model in the church, which was believed to bring good luck for fishermen. -
St. Meynard's Church
address: Ganību iela 120Very different from all the others, because it is much newer. It was a gift from Vatican. It was the Vatican's pavilion at Expo 2000 in Hannover, Germany, and brought her in 2002. The church is not in the city centre.
Many other churches are scattered throughout the city, the most important being St. Nicholas maritime cathedral in Karosta (see Karosta).
Liepāja Lake
Liepāja is surrounded by water. There are the Baltic Sea, two big lakes and some smaller ones, and four channels in the city. The city, is almost an island, especially the southern part (Vecliepāja). Liepāja Lake is the fifth largest lake in Latvia. It is lagoon type, which was part of the sea in ancient days. It is not deep, relatively narrow - up to 3.5 km (2.2 mi) - and long - about 15 km (9.3 mi). Liepāja city is on the north-western coast of the lake. If you go to Ezerkrasts (Lakeside), you can see the best lake views from Tise iela (Tise street). On one side are apartment buildings, and on the other, a meadow; behind the meadow is the lake. The lake, together with surrounding meadows (Vitinu meadows), is a nature protection area, mostly because of some rare plants growing there and many species of birds that live or come across this place regularly. This visit must be guided and pre-booked in the Tourism Information Centre, because it is a nature protection area. Swimming in the lake is not as nice as in the sea (but warmer), because the bottom is sometimes swampy. There is, however, a special place for swimming at the end of Vainodes street.There is an interesting, yet very dirty and untouristic, place called . It is the biggest island in the lake and is very close to city center, where it is connected by bridge. From the island, an approximately 1 km (0.6 mi) long jetty, accessible even by car (a very bad road though), built of metallurgical factory oven-burned metallic stones, goes into the lake, providing nice views. It is sometimes called Golodova dambis or Zirgu salas dambis, and does not appear in any travel guides except this one.
Karosta
A former secret Soviet military town. If you are in Liepāja, you must go to Karosta. It is the northern part of the city, about 10 km (6 mi) from the center. Karosta translates as War Port (or Navy Harbor) from Latvian. It used to be a secret military town for the Russian Empire, and later also for the Soviets. Latvia became independent, and some years after that, in 1994, the Russian troops had to leave Karosta. The population dropped dramatically from 25,000 to 6,000, leaving many empty houses behind. Then Karosta experienced something like a war without guns. Many houses were turned into ruins. Everything was taken away. Brick by brick, many historic, beautiful buildings disappeared forever. Now, Karosta has a population of 7,000 and a dream of renaissance, which has already started. It is now a popular tourist destination and also home for an international artists' center called K2. Many places in Karosta still look like war rubble. Some places are reminiscent of the abandoned towns of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster area.
Karosta beachThere is a beach in Karosta. There you will find some pebbles and the sand might not be that soft as in the previous beach. On the seashore of Karosta you can also see a breakwater, the longest of Liepāja`s breakwaters, stretching 1.8 km into the sea, and you can go on it by car for approximately half of its length. Just be careful of waves in windy weather. And wind is famous in Liepāja. A Latvian expression says "the city where wind was born". And as any Latvian would tell, it's Liepāja. On the shore you can also see two fortresses. This is a wild beach with steep coasts, unlike the central beach with dunes.
Eight fortressesThey are all around the city, but the most scenic and interesting ones are these two on the shores of Karosta. The one closer to the breakwater (you can even see a small part of it from the breakwater), is the Nearby Forts. The other one, further to the north, is the Northern Forts.
Nearby FortIt was blasted up shortly after being built.
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phone: +371 26369470address: LiepājaThe ruins of a 1908 fortress. Military heritage, tours with torches, underground labyrinths, fortifications, seashore, history of Karosta. It was not blasted up. So, it has much more underground labyrinths and tunnels to explore, but it is not as scenic and dramatic from the outside as the first one. Nearby the Northern Forts you can see nature-friendly energy being made by a huge wind power generator, which can be seen from far in the distance.
St. Nikolai Orthodox Cathedral
Twinned town of ChernobylEmpty Soviet style apartment buildings, left in 1994. Some are already destroyed, some 10 are still there. Many older houses are empty as well.
Contemporary Art Gallery
Submarine Accumulator Fence and HangarThe remains of a submarine base that was once here. There are also former dormitories, beautiful red brick buildings. All are abandoned and partially demolished.
Horse ArenaA roofless building, which was once used for soldiers' training to ride horses, as well as for official celebrations for up to 4000 people who could fit there. These days the building is not used, except for one nice event, when Liepāja symphony orchestra made an open-air concert here.
CastleUnfortunately in bad condition.
Do
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phone: +371 63422514, +371 63407811, +371 63422121address: Teātra iela 4Also sells tickets to various other venues all over the city, like the organ music festival.
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phone: +371 63424555address: Radio iela 8New and modern building with a grotesque brown glass façade.
Seaside ParkIn the center of the city, beside the beach, is the most beautiful park of Liepāja. It has many different tree species, three stadiums, a concert garden, bowling center, minigolf, and in summer – cafeterias and many cultural events. You will find fountains there, and if you are lucky, you will see a squirrel running up the tree.
Beaches and swimmingWhat attracts tourists the most is probably the whitest and softest sandy beach. Part of it receives the Blue Flag every summer. This indicates that the beach is really good and safe to swim at. A good thing about Liepāja beach is that it is rarely too crowded. In the evening, night or early morning, or in winter, you can sometimes find yourself all alone on a magnificent beach, stretching as far as you can see. This concerns Vecliepājas and Dienvidrietumi beach, which are located in the central and southwestern part of the city. There are also beaches in Karosta.
WindsurfingWindsurfing activities are popular and the city has both the sea and the lake, so there are wide opportunities for this and equipment can be rented in windsurfing club Rietumkrasts in Katedrales street, Karosta.
Baltic Beach PartyLatvia's biggest music festival held at the central beach.
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International Organ Music Festival
address: Liepāja/KuldīgaMostly happening in the Trinity Church. Get you ticket at the Liepaja Theatre.
Work
Buy
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phone: +371 63423517It has big indoor and outdoor sections, where you can find food and non-food items. There is a fish market in the basement of the indoor market building. Some craftworks, amber and souvenirs can be bought outside, such as amber bracelets etc. This is the best place to buy local, ecologically clean fruit and vegetables, and July is strawberry time! Everything is relatively cheap.
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Anne’s market / Jaunliepājas market
phone: +371 63425132address: Jelgavas 37It is smaller than Petertirgus, but similar products and has a big flea market section, where you can find many things from the Soviet era. - Furthermore, there are two smaller ones, one in Silku/Kalpaka street corner and another one in Karosta for cool soviet-style souvenirs and other interesting stuff.
In Liepāja you will find all shops you might want to find, except for expensive brand shops. The main shopping centres are located in the centre and in the south of the city: Kurzeme, Ostmala, Rietumu centres, XL Sala, Baata, Ezerkrasts, and Depo.
- Kurzeme is one of the largest shopping centres located in the heart of Liepāja, next to the Rose Square. The four-storey building offers a variety of shops, cafes, restaurants and various other service providers, books, jewellery, sports clothing and equipment, kids clothing and toys, women's and men's clothing, footwear, cosmetics, flowers, and sweets. Kurzeme shopping mall features more than 50 stores including global and Latvian favourite brand like Ecco, Sportland, Kidz One, Toy’s Planet, Stenders, Lauma Lingerie, NS King, VOVA, Jahonts, X Jeans, Zvaigzne ABC, Dzintars, and Laima.
- Depo is the largest DIY store in Latvia. Rietumu centres has Jysk. Ostmala has a Rimi hypermarket and many clothes shops. XL Sala has Maxima XX and many other shops. Baata is probably the trendiest shopping centre - it is not large, but has a nice selection of shops and a very good restaurant Olive. Go there by tram till the last stop in the South. And 5 minutes from there is a wonderful white sand beach of the Baltic sea.
- Visit the tourism information center; they have nice souvenirs, too. A good souvenir from little bays near fortresses in Karosta is little pebbles from the Baltic Sea. It's free and natural. Some tourists take a little jar of Liepāja central beach unbelievably white and soft sand as a souvenir.
- Stendera ziepju fabrika produces interesting soaps and soap-related products for bathing, such as Burbuļbumbas - the bubble balls.
Eat
Budget
For a western traveller, Liepāja's food prices might seem quite cheap, even for top-class restaurants. This is because the local average salary is about €400 per month.- Peter’s market (Pētertirgus, see above) – Has fresh, clean local food which is natural and healthy. Especially strawberries in July...
- Try Latvian food in a cafeteria, restaurant or just buy a Sklandrausis (carrot pie, typical for Kurzeme, Western Latvia) in Šaras (a local word used for inner pavilion of a market, in this case Petertirgus market, and the official word in Latvian would be skārņi).
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Serenāde
address: Pasta 28Has great cakes and pastries costing €0.40. -
phone: +371 63420290address: Brivzemnieka StreetA restaurant with good and cheap pizzas, meat dishes, fish - everything.
Karosta Prison CanteenIn Karosta Prison there is an authentic Soviet style canteen, but it does not operate regularly and is used by group requests only.
Mid-range
Medus
Splurge
Fontaine RoyalA very stylish restaurant on the Promenade (not to be confused with the nearby top-class restaurant in hotel Promenade). Everything is in pompous royal style, golden colored chairs and tables, etc.
Vecais kapteinisFish restaurant.
Drink
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phone: +371 63488510address: Dzirnavu iela 4A hotel's music club in an old warehouse, capacity 600 people, offering live bands from around the globe. Popular with travellers and internationals.
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Rock café "Old Viking"
address: Zivju iela 3 -
phone: +371 63427318address: Baznīcas iela 14/16
Sleep
Budget
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phone: +371 28690106address: Republikas iela 25The Liepāja Branch of the Australian Chamber of Commerce in Latvia has a guesthouse for travellers in Liepāja. With terrace, WiFi, kitchen, and equipment for the beach. It is most suited for backpackers and small groups of friends and families. Unfortunately, the hostel has seen its best times, and would really need a helping/cleaning hand, which doesn't seem to to be a priority of the owner.
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phone: +371 63420102address: Lielā iela 11Refurbished rooms, WiFi throughout the hotel, modern conference facilities, and fitness center. Also features Restaurant Upe, which serves international cuisine.
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Liela Guest Apartment
phone: +371 26316169address: Liela iela 8Average ratings, but cheap. -
Karosta Military Detention Centre
phone: +371 26369470address: Invalīdu Street 4The Karosta prison is probably the most inhospitable hotel in the world. There is no hot water, mattresses consist of wooden planks, and prison guards bark at the guests also known as prisoners. The hostel is in a former prison noted for its exceptional brutality during the Soviet era. -
phone: +371 63420956address: Juras 24Charming hotel in 2 old wooden houses on the same street, dating 1760 and 1890, with a nice backyard. Each room has its own design and charm. The reception is also a shop selling antiques and souvenirs.
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Pie Jāņa Brāļa
phone: +371 20364552address: Raiņa iela 43Kitchen, washing machine, WiFi, large common room. Average ratings.
Mid-range and splurge
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phone: +371 63403434Four-star hotel on the Bank of Trade channel in the centre, only 15 minutes walk from unique white sand beach. Hotel is preferred for businessmen and those travelling on leisure, friendly for families.
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phone: +371 63489777address: Stūrmaņu iela 1At the canal front downtown in an old factory building. Fontaine Royal offers swimming pool, health centre, conference hall, restaurant, bar and various shops. The hotel is full of royal furniture, all gold plated standing in contrast with the old factory spirit, you will feel like a king staying at the Fontaine Royal. The hotel offers the biggest conference & banquet facilities in Kurland with 300 seats.
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Robežu nams
phone: +371 28831460address: Robežu iela 7
Stay safe
Cope
Go next
- In Liepāja region there are some nice towns, 100 km of beautiful Baltic coast, and lots of forests.
- Kalvenes Zoo "Cīruļi" – It is worth visiting this park, which is very big and where animals have bigger space to live than usually in city zoos.
- Pape Nature Reserve – Another option, if you want to see wild horses and wild boar and wild coast.
- Aizpute – A town of medieval atmosphere with little irregular streets, old wooden buildings, small lakes and castle ruins, on the way to Kuldiga (about 100 km away).
- Kuldiga – The capital of Duchy of Courland, Venice of Latvia, with unique and wooden architecture, red-tile roofs, bridges, cobbled streets, the widest widest waterfall ledge in Europe, and nearby the longest underground (sand) cave labyrinth in the Baltics.
- Pāvilosta and Daugavpils – According to locals in Liepāja, these have forts similar to Liepāja but which are much better preserved.
- Ventspils – A modern and artistic sea resort city 110 km to the north, has many things to see, and is one of the tidiest places in the Kurzeme region. A long-stretching beach and recreational park provide everything for a relaxing holiday week or weekend. It gets its prosperity from the huge ice-free port, which is the busiest port in the Baltic states, and the oil transit business.
- Klaipėda – This city in Lithuania is the gateway to the Curonian Spit, a stretch of sand dunes 99 km in length. Buses for Klaipėda with a stop at Palanga go from the on Kuršu iela in Liepāja – Minibus 08:00 €5, Ecolines Bus 11:30 €4.50 (book online). The minibus does not go to the Klaipėda bus station but to the Akropolis Shopping Centre, from where you have to take a regular bus into the centre or to the bus station.