Lomé
Understand
In 1897 Lomé became capital of the German colony Togo.
In 1975 the Lomé Convention was signed between the European Economic Community and 46 African, Caribbean and Pacific states.
Get in
The main border crossing from Ghana is Aflao, less then two kilometers from the city centre. Visa on arrival is available at both airport and land border from Ghana for CFA 10,000 - 15,000 depending on your nationality and is good for one week. It can be extended for a month for no extra charge. As of january 2019, you can get a 3 month visa at the border for Ghana for 705 Ghana Cedis (145 USD) if you didn’t manage to get one in your home country.
By plane
Lomé–Tokoin International AirportThe international airport has nonstop flights from Lisbon and Casablanca and Paris. Ethiopian Airlines uses Lomé as a hub, with flights from Addis Ababa, Dakar, Johannesburg as well as a transatlantic flight from Newark. Regional carrier ASKY Airlines connects Lomé with capitals of neighbouring countries.
Get around
There are rental car agencies downtown, but if you are just coming for a few days motos are your best option.
The beach road runs directly beside the ocean from Ghana to Benin. The Boulevard Circulaire (le 13 Janvier) acts as a main artery through downtown Lomé, a hemisphere that encloses the Marche and Government buildings. It starts at the beach in Kodjoviakope and wraps around to the beach in Bea.
For an english speaking driver or guide during your stay in Lomé, call Joseph at tel: +22890074020.
See
Togo National MuseumHoused in the Palais du Congrès (National Assembly) complex, this museum contains collections, jewellery, musical instruments, dolls, pottery, weapons and many other objects showing the arts and traditions of Togo.
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Musée International du Golfe de Guinée
address: Boulevard du MonoThis small museum houses a quite large collection of authentic mainly West African historical items, such as maskes, wooden chairs, funeral ceremonial items such as stretchers and chests and similar. A bit off the city centre, right on the beach but worth a detour if you have the time.
Do
Buy
Lomé's biggest attractions are its markets. The Grand Market with a large 3-storey hall, sells everything from red peppers, green lemons, and dried fish, to combs, travel bags, and traditional medicinal remedies. On the first floor is the Nana Benz, which is noted for its clothing. The smaller and more specialized Fetish Market, CFA 3000 entrance fee and CFA 2000 if taking photos, sells voodoo fetishes, gongons, and gris-gris. There is also a souvenir market Centre Artisinale, selling wooden carvings, clay pots, authentic fabrics, local paintings and african clothing. Most of them are made on spot and of great value. As always make sure to bargain.
Eat
Lebanese restaurants are peppered throughout Lomé, with the best being in Kodjoviakope and wrapping around with the Boulevard. Recommended are Al Mohatas by the Route de Kpalime and Al Sultan's in Kodjoviakope. Most plates run CFA 1000-2000.
There are two Chinese restaurants, one in Kodjoviakope, the other in Asigame, down the street from the Togocel main offices.
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La Belle Époque
address: Rue HommaFrench Restaurant on the backside of the German embassy. Menu of the day from CFA 6500. Hamburgers from CFA 1500. -
Le Galion
address: Rue CamomilleFrench-owned hotel near the beach in Kodjoviakope which has an excellent restaurant serving omelettes, steaks, spaghetti, salads, deserts, etc. Mains run CFA 3000-5000 and they have a set three course menu for CFA 6500. -
Marox Bena Grill
phone: +228 22 224138address: 24 Rue du Lac TogoOfficial name is "Bena Grill", but no one uses this. German-style Schnitzel from CFA 3300, fries start at CFA 900, and a liter of beer will cost you CFA 2200. -
Alt München
phone: +228 22 276321address: Boulevard Du MonoMunich cuisine, but a little bit expensive. -
La Bella Luna
phone: +228 22 21 74 48address: Rue CamomillesExcellent Frenbch cuisine, nice AC inside, right on the beach next to the German embassy. A bit pricy, but the food is exquisite, if you are up for a treat. -
Hamburger du Togo
phone: +228 22 64 78 94address: Avenue Pompidou
Drink
For a more relaxed time, check out the beach close to the border with Ghana - seating is plentiful and, if you're lucky, the Castle Milk Stouts are pretty cold. Be sure to get off of the beach soon after nightfall, as it is easily the most dangerous part of the city.
Local drinks can be found if you dig a little deeper. The local brew of choice is Tchouk, locally brewed millet beer. A calabash full at a tchouk-stand costs CFA 100 in the city. Other drinks are Deha - palm wine, and Sodabe - Togolese bathtub hooch - grain liquor that burns going down and coming back up. Be wary, it is only for the truly initiated.
Sleep
There are a few nice hotels with fan/AC in Kodjoviakope and surrounding areas that will run you CFA 7000-15000. Check out My Diana's, and for the budget traveller, ask for Mammy's, down the road from the Angolan Embassy (CFA 3500 per room, rooms fit 2-3).
Budget
Auberge Le GalionDouble rooms with ensuite bathroom. Walking distance to the Aflao border crossing. Safe neighbourhood, nice relaxed atmosphere with occational live music. Popular with expats.
Mid-range
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phone: +228 22 202240Has wireless internet access, and a lovely atmosphere with a waterfall running into a small swimming pool. The food is delicious, and it's a pleasant nice place to stay. The owners are French, and very welcoming.
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phone: +228 90 05 71 29address: 42-44, Rue de la Gare
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phone: +228 22 212485address: Avenue du Général de GaulleFrench run and the food is excellent.
Splurge
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phone: +228 22238600address: Place De Independence Bp 131With its 36 floors this is Togo's tallest building, and is visible from anywhere in the city. Built in 1980 and refurbished. There is a skybar and restaurant on the top floor offering great views. You can use their swimming pool even if you don’t stay at the hotel for CFA 9,000 including 2 virgin cocktails.
Stay safe
Connect
If you ar staying in Kodjoviakope you can use your Ghana cell card, it will work perfectly.
Note that Togo's telephone numbering plan changed in 2011; see Togo#Connect for details.
Cope
Embassies
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phone: +22822234640address: Rue de la Marina Quartier Administratif - BP 337. Lomé
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phone: +22822233232address: Boulevard de la République, LoméMondays-Fridays: 9AM to noon
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British Honorary Consulate
phone: +22822222714address: Rue de Canaris, Be Château, Lomé -
phone: +22822615470address: Boulevard Eyadema B.P. 852, Lomé
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phone: +22822262443address: مدينة الاتحاد الأفريقى بجوار رئاسة الوزراء , Lomé