London/Soho

Orientation

This is generally considered to be the area enclosed by Piccadilly Circus, Shaftesbury Avenue and Cambridge Circus to the south, Charing Cross Road to the east, Oxford Street to the north, and Regent Street to the west. Oxford Street is the main shopping street in London but much of it is in the Mayfair-Marylebone district.
The area immediately surrounding in the southern part of Soho is widely recognised as London's foremost gay village and is a very stylish part of London indeed. There is some overlap with the red light district, though there has been a decline in prostitution and strip bars in the area since the 1960s and is not quite as seedy as it once was, although you may still get solicited on the street in certain parts of Soho.
Chinatown is sometimes considered to be part of Soho, but it is south of Shaftesbury Avenue and, having a culture distinctly different from the rest of the West End, adjoins – but is not really part of – Soho.

History

Soho has a long and colourful history. The first record of the name comes from the 17th century when the area was pasture after being used as hunting park for the Royal Court of Henry VIII some 100 years earlier. Although disputed, it is widely believed that the name Soho originated as a hunting cry.
Despite this royal attention and very grand development taking place in adjoining districts, Soho did not become fashionable until recent times and was mostly known as an area settled by new immigrants. By the mid-19th century it had become the home of prostitutes and low brow music halls. Things looked up in the early 1900s when it gained something of a Bohemian reputation with writers, artists and actors moving in but the sex industry continued to dominate the district until as recently as the 1980s. This lucrative business was always run by organised crime groups and ensured that Soho was a notorious haunt of gangsters throughout much of the 20th century.
The music business began to really prosper here in the 1950s with a beatnik and jazz culture very much to the fore. Perhaps London's most famous jazz venue, Ronnie Scotts, is still thriving today in Frith Street. Many famous rock bands are also closely associated with Soho. The Rolling Stones played their first ever live concert here (at the legendary Marquee) and the Sex Pistols lived in Denmark Street and played a number of infamous gigs. In the 1970s and 1980s Soho, and the Marquee in particular, was the place in London to head for to check out up and coming and often very controversial British bands.
Since the 1980s, the whole of Soho has undergone rapid transformation and development into a fashionable district of upmarket restaurants and media offices. There are though still a few places which are easily associated with its more colourful past and even a small remnant of the previously dominant sex industry remains, much of which has been disrupted by a number of waves of police crackdowns.
Modern-day Soho has the densest concentration of restaurants, cafés, clubs and bars in central London and truly represents the vibrant, bustling heart of the city. It is also the modern hub of London's media world with multiple advertising agencies, television and radio studios and post-production companies choosing this as their base of operations.

Reading

Unsurprisingly given its colourful nature, much has been written about Soho. The following is a short selection of books, all which would be of benefit to anyone planning to visit Soho.

• Dirty White Boy, Tales of Soho by Clayton Littlewood, Cleiss Press 2008. The musings and observations of a clothing store owner in Old Compton St in the 2000s. You will struggle to find a better modern day commentary on Soho. Littlewood's book has been compared to Christopher Isherwood's writings about sordid Berlin in the 1920s. And apart from all that, it is very funny.
• Dog Days in Soho by Nigel Richardson, Phoenix 2001. A biography of one sailor's life in Soho in the 1950s, perhaps the single most notorious period in the history of the district. Poignant and very well written. Gives a fine sense of the period just before the evolution of modern day Soho.
• Soho: A History of London's Most Colourful Neighbourhood by Judith Summers, Bloomsbury Publishing Ltd 1989. Not easy to find copies of this book but it is worth the effort. It covers the social history of the district from the 18th to late 20th century.

By Tube

A Tube station serves each of the four approximate corners of Soho, all in Zone 1:

• Tottenham Court Rd to the north-east (Central and Northern lines)
• Oxford Circus to the north-west (Bakerloo, Central and Victoria lines)
• Leicester Square to the south-east (Northern and Piccadilly lines)
• Piccadilly Circus to the south-west (Bakerloo and Piccadily lines)

By train

Charing Cross is the most convenient mainline station, is a 10-15 min walk to the southeast.

By car

Driving to Soho is not recommended, owing to traffic congestion and stringent parking restrictions, and the £8 congestion charge. There is, however, a Masterpark parking station on Poland St, and another car park on Brewer Street.

By rickshaw

More entertainment than transportation really, rickshaws run in Soho and the surrounding areas. They are much more expensive than a black cab, and may seem a lot less safe, but they are a lot of fun and can often be the fastest way to get around these tightly packed streets.

By bicycle

London's cycle hire scheme (known locally as "Boris bikes") has a number of outlets around Soho including on Old Compton Street, Wardour Street, Soho Square and Golden Square.

Old Compton Street is Soho's unofficial high-street and is full of bars, cafes, clubs and shops. It is a great place to grab a coffee and watch Soho go by.

• Soho Square

  address: Soho Sq W1
  A centuries-old small park that becomes packed on warm sunny days.

• Photographers' Gallery

  phone: +44 20 7087-9300
  address: 16 - 18 Ramillies St
  The exhibitions are wide and varied, from documentary photographers to fine artists, some long gone, and some on their way up. With the crowds and chaos of Leicester Square on one side and Covent Garden on the other, this is a welcome retreat.

Explore

• Wander the streetsSoho is best discovered by wandering its streets. Take the less trodden paths and you will be amazed by the rabbit warren of streets and the seemingly endless number of cafes, bars, shops and more. Some highlights are the gay village on Old Compton St, Soho Square and a tea and cakes in one of Soho's great patisseries.

Watch

• Dominion Theatre

  address: 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ
  Home of Queen musical We Will Rock You.

• Gielgud Theatre

  address: 35 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W1D 6AR

• Novello Theatre

  phone: +44 844 482 5171
  address: 5 Aldwych, London, WC2B 4LD
  Home of Mamma Mia since 1999.

• London Palladium

  address: Argyll St, W1F 7TF
  Famous old London music hall whose boards have been trodden by many legendary names. These days it shows mostly blockbuster musical productions for the masses.

• Prince Edward Theatre

  phone: +44 20 7440-3020
  address: 28 Old Compton St, W1D 4HS

• Drury Lane Theatre Royal

  address: Catherine Street, London, WC2B 5JF

Soho has a diverse range of shops, tending towards the arty, boutique and independent style of outlet.
After a period in the 1970s and 1980s when Carnaby Street became little more than a tourist trap and a pale imitation of its innovative, trend-setting heyday in the 1960s, it is now once again a major centre of new design. There are some especially interesting independent fashion stores in the small streets and courtyards off Carnaby Street, so it is well worth exploring the area carefully.
Berwick Street is notable for a collection of independent record shops specialising in different genres of dance music.

Clothing and accessories

• Ben Sherman

  phone: +44 20 7437-2031
  address: 50 Carnaby St, W1F 9QA
  The flagship retail outlet of this iconic British fashion brand. Men's and women's clothing, accessories and shoes.

• The Great Frog

  phone: +44 20 7439-9357
  address: 10 Ganton St, W1F 7QR
  Rock and heavy metal jewellery specialist. Been in business here for more than 40 years. The iconic skull ring worn by so many famous rockers was originally designed and produced by Great Frog.

Music and record shops

• Reckless Records

  phone: +44 20 7437-4271
  address: 30 Berwick St, W1F 8RH
  Second-hand record (vinyl) store.

Gay-related

Unsurprisingly, Soho has a number of gay-related outlets, some of the best known are:

• Prowler

  address: 5-7 Brewer St, W1F 0RF

• Clone Zone

  address: 64 Old Compton St, W1D 4UQ
  The world's largest gay retail company.

Others

• Berwick Street MarketAn absolute gem and a relic of Soho's past. This is an old fashioned London fruit and vegetable market complete with shouting Barrow Boys and a whole array of colourful characters. There has been a market at this site since the early 1800s. Best early in the mornings.

• Foyles

  phone: +44 20 7437-5660
  address: 113-119 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0EB
  London's best known bookshop is a mazy warren containing a seemingly impossible number of books! It is not always easy to find your way around and although greatly improved since the renovation in 1999, the service is notably surly. Nonetheless, this place is a must for all book lovers.

• OHSO SOHO

  phone: +44 20 7287 1295 or +44 20 7287 7287
  address: 9 Berwick Street, W1F 0PJ
  Costume store, with a wide range of mid-range costumes for purchase, as well as masks. Knowledegable and enthusiastic staff.

Budget

• Cafe Valentino

  phone: +44 20 7437-8837
  address: 13a Greek St, W1D 4DN
  A small cafe, primarily notable for its very late opening hours.

• The Dining Plaice

  phone: +44 20 7437-3280
  address: 20 Berwick St, W1F 0PY
  Decent fish and chip shop in the heart of Soho. Handy for Berwick Street market.

• Ma'oz

  address: 43 Old Compton St, W1D 6HG
  The best place for a light fast-food style vegetarian/vegan meal, one of the few places in Soho where a fiver (£5) can get you fed.

• The Montague Pyke

  address: 105-107 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0BP
  Offers real ales and two-for-one offers on a variety of meals.

• Stockpot

  phone: +44 20 7287-1066
  address: 18 Old Compton St, W1D 4JL
  Good dependable 'British' cuisine

Asian fusion

• Taro

  address: 61 Brewer St, W1F 9UW
  Noodles, sushi, bento boxes and assorted other Japanese goodies. Good cheap eats and reliable quality.

• Tuk Tuk Noodle Bar

  phone: +44 20 7734-5951
  address: 56 Old Compton St, W1D 4UE
  Honest, authentic and reliable Thai food, served up quickly and is amazing value for money. Can be crowded at peak times, turnover is so fast you won't be waiting too long.

• Thai Cottage

  address: 34 D'Arblay St, W1F 8EX
  A slightly rough around the edges Thai restaurant which is always busy, thanks to the excellent value food which speaks for itself.

Italian and pizza

• Piccolo Diavolo

  address: 8 Old Compton St, W1D 4TE
  A little corner of great Italian hospitality in the heart of Soho. A good variety of Italian quality food served with passion by friendly waiters.

• Ristorante Cappucetto

  phone: +44 20 7437 2527-9472
  address: 9 Moor St
  One of the oldest established Italian restaurants in Soho - since 1962. Family run, and the service is friendly, with some really good and authentic Italian dishes. Lunchtime meal deal between 12:00-16:00 with a main course and drink for £5.50.
• Jazz @ Pizza Express, part of the popular up-market pizza chain, but with a musical twist. Jazz bands play in the basement, often requires prior booking.

Mid-range

• Andrew Edmunds

  address: 46 Lexington St, W1R 3LH
  Top quality restaurant, great romantic spot. Bookings recommended.

• Balan's

  phone: +44 20 7439-2183
  address: 60-62 Old Compton St, W1D 4UG
  Almost a Soho institution, this 24-hour eatery in the heart of the gay village offers a wide range of British and world cuisine in a stylish atmosphere. Has now gone international with branches in Miami, but the original Old Compton Street Balans is still be best, attracting clientele as diverse as the late TV presenter Dale Winton and politician and former mayor Ken Livingstone among its regulars.

• Busaba Eathai

  phone: +44 20 7255-8686
  address: 106-110 Wardour St, W1F 0TR
  One of the best choices on a street with any number of fantastic restaurants. You will find a laid back atmosphere with big low wooden tables (expect to share if your party is small). The menu features among other dishes a fine butternut squash curry.

• The Red Fort

  phone: +44 20 7437-2525
  address: 77 Dean St, W1D 3SH
  This has been the landmark Indian restaurant in Soho since it opened in 1983. High quality Indian food soon. Vegetarian options are especially good.

• St Moritz

  phone: +44 20 7734 3324
  address: 159-161 Wardour St, W1F 8WJ
  A slice of the Swiss Alps in central London, offering fondue, raclette and other winter comfort foods amongst giant alpine horns and cowbells.

• Scoop

  phone: +44 20 7494 3082
  address: 53 Brewer Street
  Come here for some genuine Italian gelato or coffee and cake. Try their hazelnut gelato, which is simply amazing.

Splurge

• L'Escargot

  phone: +44 20 7437-6828
  address: 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF
  This French restaurant has been serving up refined cuisine to the Soho faithful since 1927. It is owned and run by celebrity chef Marco Pierre White. The brasserie downstairs is slightly less formal than the Michelin-starred upper level.

• Quo Vadis

  phone: +44 20 7437-9585
  address: 26-29 Dean St, W1D 3LL
  Bit of a Soho institution that used to be owned by Marco Pierre White. Now under new management but little has changed. Top notch British grill style food in a very smart environment.

• Vasco and Piero's Pavilion

  phone: +44 20 7437-8774
  address: 15 Poland St, W1F 8QE
  Umbrian food prepared with the very best ingredients by chef Vasco. All the pasta is freshly made on the premises. The calve's liver is especially famous. Has been in business here for 40 years.

Patisseries

Have tea and cakes in one of Soho's great patisseries.

• Maison Bertaux

  phone: +44 20 7437-6007
  address: 28 Greek St, W1D 5DD
  Slightly tatty but utterly and deliciously French, since 1871. Take away or sit at one of their sidewalk tables.

• Patisserie Valerie

  phone: +44 20 7437-3466
  address: 44 Old Compton St, W1D 5JX
  The original location of this very successful business (locally nicknamed as "Pat Vals") which has expanded across London with numerous outlets now around the West End. Wonderful French cakes and pastries. Breakfast here is notably good. Has a large seating area upstairs.

Soho used to be home to a number of establishments known as "clip joints" that exploited a loophole in the law. The usual scenario of such places: someone would stand outside extolling the number of attractive young ladies inside the establishment, some of which may be offering X-rated services. Upon entering, the unsuspecting customer would be asked for a considerable sum of money for the "entrance fee" or "membership fee" for the club they have joined simply by entering, and/or charged an extravagant rate for a glass of beer. Non-payment would result in threats of physical violence and possibly being frogmarched to a nearby ATM.
Generally, Soho is a safe place for people of all backgrounds. These establishments have mostly disappeared following a change in the law, but Soho's reputation as a hub for the sex industry means there are occasionally people who engage in scams and cons. Be careful not to go any place recommended by someone on the street, as this is more than likely a scam that will cost you hundreds of pounds with the suggester getting a commission. Exercise discretion and common sense.

Pubs

• Garlic and Shots

  address: 14 Frith St, W1D 4RD
  Walk through the unassuming upstairs restaurant and head down the back stairs to find this small hidden basement bar, which boasts 101 different garlic and chilli-infused shots and loud rock/metal music. The 'Bloodshot' is highly recommended! There is also a seated outdoor smoking area out the back.

• The Crobar

  address: 17 Manette St, W1D 4AS
  Metal pub. Very fine atmosphere if you like or are among the metal folks.

• The Crown and 2 Chairmen

  phone: +44 8721 077 077
  address: Dean St, W1D 3SB
  Has had a fancy refit and has a good selection of beers. You may have to wait a little while for your drink however. Popular with local media industry crowd.

• The French House

  address: 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG
  The legendary pub in which the French resistance convened during World War II and which was the favoured haunt of legendary Soho characters such as Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud. It is a very small pub, so expect to be jammed in, particularly in winter. The pub only serves beer in half-pints. An absolute Soho institution. Think "Jeffrey Bernard is unwell".

• The Midas Touch

  address: 49 Beak St, W1F 9SB
  Popular pub with locals and usually has some good happy hour deals.

• The Tottenham

  address: 6 Oxford St, W1D 2DN
  Refurbished pub claiming to be the only pub on the whole of Oxford St. An absolute tourist trap but it is very convenient.

• The Toucan

  address: 19 Carlisle St, W1D 3BX
  Widely mistaken for an Irish bar it actually specializes in Guinness, said to be the best pint in London. Also check out their collection of over 100 different Irish whiskies.

• Sam Smith PubsSam Smith's pubs are some of the cheaper places to drink in Soho as they mostly sell their own beers brewed in Yorkshire.

• The Red Lion

  phone: +44 20 7734 4985
  address: 14 Kingly St, W1B 5PR

• The John Snow

  address: Broadwick Street

• The White Horse

  address: 45 Rupert St

Jazz joints, bars and clubs

• Ronnie Scott's Jazz Club

  phone: +44 20 7439-0747
  address: 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT
  Ronnie Scott's world-famous jazz venue. Most performances get booked up quickly: you need to reserve space on a table for dinner. Upstairs, there is a bar ("Ronnie's Bar") with more of a club-like environment.
• There are numerous other jazz bars near Ronnie Scott's, less famous and subsequently cheaper, including:

• Jazz after Dark, 9 Greek St
• St Moritz Club, 159 Wardour St

• The Cafe @ Foyles bookshop

  phone: +44 20 7437-5660
  address: 113-119 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0EB

Ain't Nothin' But...

address: 20 Kingly St, W1B 5PZ

Blues bar.

Alphabet

phone: +44 20 7439-2120

address: 61-63 Beak St, W1R 3LF

Trendy bar that manages to have a comfortable vibe, despite the great art on the wall and hip clientele.

Lab

address: 12 Old Compton St, W1D 4TQ

Popular martini bar.

Milk and Honey

address: 61 Poland Street, W1F 7NU

Cocktail club with original branch in New York City. Members only, although non-members can phone and book a table. Unlike the rest of Soho, the atmosphere is quiet and unforgiving of rowdiness. If you cannot decide on a drink, ask the waiter to make you something and specify a few characteristics (fruity, gin-based, sour, etc.) and you'll usually be very pleasantly rewarded.

Bar Termini

phone: +44 7860 945 018 (mobile number)

address: 7 Old Compton Street, W1D 5JE

Italian-style bar serving cocktails and charcuterie. Excellent (and reasonable for the area) drinks in a cosy, quiet setting. No loud music, no rowdiness.

Predominantly gay

• Admiral Duncan

  address: 54 Old Compton St, W1D 4UB
  A single room: what it lacks in space, it makes up for with drag performances. Make sure you head here on a Sunday evening for the Divine Ms Frankie Fantastique and her weekly game of "Rock and Roll Bingo".

• Comptons

  address: 53-57 Old Compton St, W1D 6HN
  A gay institution. Mostly caters to an older, rougher, fetish-oriented and bearish crowd.

• Duke Of Wellington

  address: Corner of Old Compton and Wardour Sts
  Superb "neighbourhood pub" which is popular with the beary crowd. Good music and great choice of drinks. Downstairs is always busy - upstairs is more subdued with sofa's and tables.

• Edge

  address: 11 Soho Square
  A three-storey bar: at the weekend, it stays open until 3AM with drag queens, go-go boys, etc.

• G-A-Y

  address: 30 Old Compton St, W1D 4UR
  Video monitors showing pop divas, and very cheap drinks. The G-A-Y brand also runs a late night bar, G-A-Y Late, as well as events at the nightclub Heaven (see the Covent Garden page). Fliers and wristbands for free or discounted entry are available both in and outside the Old Compton Street bar.

• Rupert Street

  phone: +44 20 7292-7141
  address: 50 Rupert St, W1D 6DR
  Popular with businessmen. Serves food and has outdoor seating.

• Shadow Lounge

  phone: +44 20 727 7988
  address: 5 Brewer St, W1F 0RF
  Where the trim, taut and terrific go to party. Often hosts incredible dance party nights.

• Yard

  phone: +44 20 7437 2652
  address: 57 Rupert Street, W1D 7PL
  Cocktails, shirtless barman and all the usual facilties of a gay bar, plus a large, enclosed outside seating area and first floor balcony—great for sunny summer evenings, great for smokers too.

Soho is a densely built district and there are not too many places to stay here.

Budget

• Oxford Street Youth Hostel

  address: 14 Noel St, W1F 8GJ
  Busy, vibrant hostel ideal for backpackers, not a place for a quiet break. Self-catering kitchen. 2-4 bed rooms.

Mid-range

Splurge

• Courthouse

  phone: +44 20 7297-5555
  address: 19-21 Great Marlborough St, W1F 7HL
  A Hilton hotel in a spectacular old building.

• Hazlitt's

  phone: +44 20 7434-1771
  address: 6 Frith St, W1D 3JA
  A quirky little hotel which occupies a number of adjacent Georgian houses. Just about as boutique as boutique gets.

• The Soho Hotel

  phone: +44 20 7559-3000
  address: 4 Richmond Mews, W1D 3DH
  Luxury boutique hotel with 91 rooms in an old converted building. Full range of five-star facilities including spa, gym, restaurant and bar. If you can afford it, a fine experience for sure.

• Netstream

  phone: +44 20 7434-2525
  address: 9-12 St Annes Ct, W1F 0BB
  Very well equipped outlet with full business services as well as a fast internet connection. Even have a few Macs.

• If you are looking for the gay nightlife, it spills across into the Leicester Square area.