Luxor/East Bank
The East Bank of Luxor is the central part of Luxor township, centred on the twin foci of the Temple of Luxor and the Temple of Karnak.
Understand
The layout of Luxor town is fairly straightforward: arranged about the temples of Karnak and Luxor, 3 km (1.9 miles, apart in the north and south of the city respectively) are four main roads with a network of many small streets between them:
- the Corniche el-Nil (usually just referred to as 'the Corniche', running along the east bank of the Nile and connecting most of the major attractions
- Sharia al-Mahatta, linking the railway station with the area around Luxor Temple
- Sharia Karnak, running inland parallel to the Nile and the Corniche
- Sharia Televizyon, in the southern part of the town, an area of inexpensive accommodation
Completed major works include widening the main road along the corniche allowing the coaches from the Red Sea resorts to quickly access Karnak temple & the Valley of the Kings.
Get in
Get around
See
City centre
Temple of LuxorLargely the work of Amenhotep III and Ramsses II the Great (whose colossi and obelisk stand at the entrance). Also to be seen is the small "hanging" Mosque of Abu al-Haggag, its position a reflection of the ground level that had built up before excavation of the temple precinct. Also good from the outside, if you already spend your budget at Karnak, due to the low surrounding barrier. If you have a good zoom lens, there is a great shot from the northern end outside. This temple is more compact, has more of the large statues but is not as vast and has not so great obelisks. Opt for Karnak if you need to choose.
Church of Archangel MichaelA church with impressive large dome. You need a passport to get in.
Karnak
Complex consists of four main parts: the Precinct of Amun-Re, the Precinct of Mut, the Precinct of Montu, and the dismantled Temple of Amenhotep IV, of which only the Precinct of Amun-Re and the Precinct of Mut are open to the general public. The term Karnak often is understood as being the Precinct of Amun-Ra only, because this is the only part most visitors see. There are also a few smaller temples and sanctuaries connecting the Precinct of Mut, the Precinct of Amun-Re, and the Luxor Temple.
Precinct of Amun-ReAnother large temple complex. Very crowded during sunset, when the sun is very low. But also good then.
Karnak Open Air MuseumAn off-shoot to the Karnak temple complex, accessed just before the Second Pylon at left, featuring an amazing array of statuary and reconstructed temple structures. Don't miss this! Ticket to be bought from the Karnak ticket office.
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Evening Light and Sound ShowThere is a separate light show in the evening, without access to temple, but with a view from a nearby hill.
Precinct of MutContains at least six temples: the Mut Temple, the Contra Temple, and Temples A, B, C, and D. All in a pretty bad shape. There is also a sacred lake Isheru surrounding the Mut Temple from the three sides.
Precinct of MontuThe main features are the Temple of Montu, Temple of Harpre, Temple of Ma'at, a sacred lake and the Gateway of Ptolemy III Euergetes / Ptolemy IV Philopator, which is the most visible structure on the site and can be easily seen from inside the Precinct of Amon-Re. Most monuments are poorly preserved.
Museums
Luxor MuseumA small but quality collection of antiquities, mainly from the Luxor region. Includes most of the remarkable collection of pharaonic statuary found in a hidden cache within Luxor Temple in 1989, displayed in a special annex.
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Museum of Mummification
address: Corniche el-NilAs the name suggests, the small but fascinating collection is devoted to mummification practices.
Further away
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Temple of Montu
address: MedamudAn Egyptian temple dedicated to the worship of Monthu. Because of Montu's strong association with raging bulls, the temple was a major centre of worship for bulls, containing many statues of bulls for worship and reliefs. Most of these statues are now located in various museums around the world. The temple consists of an open forum with a tower and enclosing two mounds that housed the chapels of worship. El-Tod TempleThe site of an Ancient Egyptian town and a temple to the Egyptian god Monthu.
Do
- Pay a visit at the Brooke Hospital for Animals - and leave a donation!
- Visit ACE - Animal Care Egypt - it has new premises, and operates free for Egyptians. Donations are always accepted - but consider buying their clothing range or books, as a charity, they totally rely on such things.
- Pay a repeat visit to Luxor Temple at night - atmospherically lit, it has a completely different mood to that found in the daytime and is usually more intimate than with fewer visitors.
- Watch the sun go down over the Nile: preferably from the terrace of the Old Winter Palace hotel, with a drink in your hand. Listen to cacophony from thousands of small birds that roost in the trees lining the Corniche.
Buy
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Gift Shop everything for €2
phone: +20 101461739The same stuff you can buy everywhere else, but at a fixed price of €2.
Eat
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address: Sahaby streetThe restaurant is on the rooftop of Nefertiti Hotel.
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Jamboree Restaurant
phone: +20 10-146 1712A clean, air-conditioned establishment with roof terrace, serving a range of mid-priced Egyptian and international dishes of above average quality including Cajun chicken (LE22.50), tasty jacket potatoes (LE9-13) and a safe salad bar. Operated by two owners, Mr Hamdy and Mr Amer. -
El Zaeem
address: Salah El-Din Square'Chain' feel, red uniforms. Offers fresh simple and cheap food such as shwarma and hawashi for LE5 or less. Note that they have an Arabic menu with the 'correct' prices, and an English menu (or no menu at all) with higher prices, such as LE10-25 for shawarma. Therefore, reading Arabic is necessary to get the local price, or ask for the Arabic version and compare. Kam ThaiSmall cafe run by Thai owner.
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phone: +20 95 2361451address: Al Roda Al Sharifa StreetExcellent English-run restaurant serving both English and Egyptian food to a very high standard at reasonable prices.
McDonald'sProvides cheeseburgers and a safe haven from the nearby souk.
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phone: +20 95 235 9752address: 90 Mohamed Farid StSpecialises in Egyptian food with a groovy decor of Egyptian antiques (and antique-like furnishing). Gives you a Western-style experience with Egyptian food. Very friendly service that can be a little slow at times. It's expensive for Egypt with starters around LE10-25, mains around LE30-60 and juices LE10-20. Because it's the top pick of a very well-known guidebook series, you really do need to book here otherwise you'll be turned away at the door.
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A Taste Of India
phone: +20 193732727address: St Joseph Hotel StreetA licensed Indian Tandoori restaurant with a good selection of international dishes including steaks. Good selection of vegetarian dishes. Quite popular restaurant owned by English ex-pat.
Drink
However, if you prefer a feshly made sugar cane drink, go to one of the many fruit juice shops. To prevent being cheated, as everywhere else, act cool, and make sure you have small coins available.
Sleep
Budget
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Bob Marley Peace Hotel (or Boomerang)
phone: +20 1091 361 544address: Mohaned Farid RoadOne of the highest rated budget places in town with friendly owner and great breakfast. Though, a little loud at a small side road and the Internet is very slow. -
The Bob Marley House - Sherief Hotel
phone: +20 1004416536address: Badr St.Not as cosy as Bob Marley Peace Hotel, but equally friendly, fast Internet, and only loud at 7:30AM when the nearby schoolchildren arrive. -
Fontana Hotel
phone: +20 100 959 8123address: Sharia RadwanClean and friendly, breakfast included, do haggle over the price. -
Oasis Hotel
phone: +20 122 473 2255address: Mohamed Farid Stbreakfast and internet included. Lovely breezy rooftop where tea and cake are served daily at sunset. Big rooms with firm beds and ceiling fans. Super close to train station - good for stumbling in after deboarding an overnight train. The internet is often turned off at night because it needs to 'rest'. Also, prices among the guests widely vary for a room - bargain hard. Moderately decent place to stay. When they say free tea with breakfast, they mean just the first. Same with the tea after sunset. You may be unpleasantly surprised with a bill if you think it is free after the first one. -
New Everest Hotel
phone: +20 122 468 9271address: Station street (al-Mahatta)breakfast, internet, Wi-Fi, bike rental, student discounts, helpful staff for trip organisation. -
ALPA apartment
phone: +20 1005688439address: El ShomosThis two-bedroom apartment is situated on the 4th floor of a typical building where locals live, ideal for leisurely exploration of Luxor. Air conditioned with spacious rooms furnished to accommodate up to four people. Consists of a living room with comfortable settee, table and satellite TV. Bathroom with shower, a double room and a twin room with French doors leading to a small balcony. Grocery, fruit and vegetable shops, restaurants, pubs and coffee shops are close. Luxor airport is 10-15 minutes away and if you wish your airport pick up can be arranged for you. Clothing can be laundered cheaply if requested. Trips and excursions can also be arranged. The owner who speaks English and has an extensive knowledge of the local area, antiquities, sites and activities.
Mid-range
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Mara House
phone: +353 868936972address: Salah Al Din Al AyoubiA boutique hotel, tucked away in a quiet residential area behind the train station. The decor is arab/mamluk style and quite charming. Serving the Salahadeen Feast only to in-house guests. Nefertiti HotelClean and friendly. Roof terrace with view over the Nile, pool table, internet (unreliable) in rooms and lobby, simple breakfast included
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phone: +20 95 2372284address: 13 Nawfal Lane, off CornishA good mid-range hotel, well-located with a rooftop garden, bar and pool.
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phone: +20 95 2381334address: Karnak Temple St.Basically comfortable, the hotel has more than 60 single and double rooms. All rooms overlook the swimming pool and the garden. Hotel offers home-cooked Egyptian buffet.
Splurge
Various large chains like Hilton, Sheraton, Novotel and Steigenberger also have high-end hotels in Luxor.
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address: King's Island (Jazirat al-Awamiyyah) LuxorA nice comfortable hotel with 332 rooms & suites. All the rooms are bungalow style, with satellite TVs, direct dial telephones, mini-fridge, private baths with showers and bath and individually controlled air conditioning. There are also terraces which usually face large garden areas and sometimes unusual for Egypt, non-smoking rooms. Recreational activities include an outdoor swimming pool, four tennis courts with flood-lighting, a jogging track, football pitch, table tennis, bicycles, a billiards room, volleyball courts, gymnastics, massages and felucca sailing. The main restaurant is good for breakfast but the dinner buffet is expensive.
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phone: +20 95 2380425address: Corniche el Nile StreetBuilt in 1886 during Queen Victoria's reign, this Sofitel chain hotel is the place to stay in Luxor. It is very central, well-appointed, and has good service and quite a bit of history. It was on the bulletin board in their lobby that Howard Carter first announced his discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb. Often block-booked by tour groups, so reserve well ahead or be prepared to be flexible with dates.
Connect
Phone
Luxor town has 4 telephone offices, allowing people to avoid the often hefty charges levied by hotels and mobile carriers for international phone calls.
The main telephone office is on Sharia Karnak, adjacent to the souqs and almost opposite the Emilio Hotel. It is open 24 hours a day. Another, smaller branch can be found below the grand sweeping entrance to the Old Winter Palace Hotel on the Corniche (open 8AM-8PM); whilst a third telephone office exists at the railway station (open 8AM-8PM) and the fourth telephone office is in Sheraton street, next DHL office.
If you wish to use your cell phone in Luxor, it is advisable to visit the Vodafone shop at the bottom of Television Street. You can buy a Holiday Sim Card, which costs LE25, and you will avoid any roaming charges, even on international calls. Just top up the card as necessary. If your phone is 'locked' by your phone company, they will advise where you can get it unlocked for a fee of between LE30-50.
Or buy a local SIM card.
Post
If you want to buy stamps, you need small change because no one will sell you if you don't have.-
Luxor's main post office
address: Sharia al-Mahatta -
Post Office
address: Saad ZaghloulA small post office with English-speaking service.