Makarska

By plane

• The nearest airport is Split SPU, 85 km north (and 25 km beyond the city of Split). In summer this has frequent package flights from north Europe and most visitors to the Makarska Riviera arrive this way.
• To the south is Dubrovnik DBV with even more seasonal flights. It's 160 km south and you have to cross Neum in Bosnia and Herzegovina for all of 10 mins to reach anywhere else in Croatia. If you hire a car at Dubrovnik to reach Makarska, they'll charge extra for taking the car out of Croatia, and apply that charge to every day of the hire even though you only make the short transit there and back. Most transits are trouble-free but see Neum for other difficulties you may face.

By bus

• Promet buses run every 30-60 mins between Makarska and Split taking 90 min to two hours, fare 56 kn. They run along the coastal Highway 8 via Baška Voda, Bratuš, Brela, Marušići and Omiš. A few services then hairpin up the side of the river gorge to pass through Tugare but most stay on the coast to reach Split via Stobreč.
• There are four buses a day from Dubrovnik (3-4 hours via Neum) which continue north to Split then variously to Šibenik, Zadar and Zagreb.
• Makarska is central on Ul. Ante Starčevića at the junction with Ul. Stjepana Radića. There's a ticket office and a couple of little cafes and kiosks, and a shopping centre adjacent.

By boat

• The Jadrolinija ferry sails between and Sumartin on Brač island, taking an hour; 4 or 5 sailings a day so a day-trip is simple. Single fare adult 15 kn, car 150 kn. Public transport from Sumartin is very limited so either take your own transport or have it teed up for your arrival. The ferry has limited capacity and is not a ro-ro but a ro-three-point-turno.

• The Old Town is small but well-preserved, stretching back from the harbour through alleys and piazzas, especially pleasant at dusk. The main church of Sv Marka (Co-Cathedral of St Mark) has a baroque interior.
• Municipal Museum on the quayside has a small but interesting display. It's open M-F 07:00-15:00, Sa 09:00-12:00; 5 kn.
• Malacological Museum is the grand name for this collection of sea-shells, usually open 10:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00. Worth looking in for the venue, an old Franciscan monastery south end of the centre.
• (St Peter) is a small island that (like many other islets along the Dalmatia coast) has become joined to the mainland by infill, so it's now an anvil-shaped peninsula separating the harbour from the main beach. It's a bosky park with a stubby lighthouse at its west end and an old church. The south shore is popular with nudists so you might also see some stubby pale zucchini.
• is the coastal ridge stretching south from the harbour all the way to Tucepi. There are quiet paths (a bit rough for cycling), woodland, and little beaches. Wild camping is not recommended, as there are bugs and spiky vegetation.
• or "Lourdes Makarska" is a woodland grotto with shrine. It's 2 km north of town off Highway 8, helpfully signposted "No entry except Driving School vehicles" in Croat.
• The mountains rearing up behind Makarska comprise Biokovo Nature Park, stretching 36 km along the coast and 9 km inland. It's a huge landscape of limestone karst crags, cliffs and ravines but the most accessible part is the village of . This has an old church and the scrappy remains of a castle built into the cliffs, but its main attraction is the Botanical Garden, a protected habitat rather than a formally-laid out garden.
• Get further into the park via the lane that begins near on Highway 512. The park toll booth is here: 50 kn for one day, 100 kn for 3 days or 250 kn for 7 days. The lane zigzags up to Vrata, whence the south fork descends eventually to Igrane, while the north fork threads its way up Vlaška Ravine to the park's highest point of Sveti Jure (St George) at 1762 m. You're going to need a car with a stout first & second gear, or come on a tour; and make sure it's a clear day, there's no point when it's socked in by cloud. There's accommodation and a few cafes within the park.

• Water activities eg parasailing, jet skiing and motor boat hire: lots of operators along the beach strip. Wibit is a water obstacle course on inflatable rafts. The beach itself is just a narrow strip of shingle; no tides as this is part of the Med.
• Scuba dive with

  More

  phone: +385 98 173 99 26
  address: Kresimira IV 43
  They go out daily at 09:00 for two-tank dives, returning 13:00-ish. PADI courses available.

Events

• Battle of Makarska or Mucules in 887 AD was when the local pirates of Neretva bested the Venetians, who thereafter had to pay protection money for their ships to pass. It's enthusiastically re-enacted each year on 18 Sept, starting at dusk around 19:30 on the harbour pier. Cutlasses, brass bands, camp sailorettes doing pop routines, wizz-bangs and flares, war-canoes mobbing a diesel-powered schooner, tricorn hats from a Captain Morgan advert, and wide-screen display, all contribute to the authenticity and glorious victory.
• Autumn Jazz Festival is next held 23 Sept - 11 Oct 2019.

• Money: most places don't take Euros, and many don't take credit cards. There are lots of small exchange kiosks, commission-free and with rates within +/- 5% of the official rate so these are good value. Plus lots of ATMs dotted around but these will incur charges from your bank.

• Supermarkets: Lidl is south edge of the centre along Ul. Europske zajednice (open daily 08:00-21:00). Two other local chains are Tommy Maxmarket and Studentica.

• There's an outdoor market for souvenirs, beach gear and snacks on the spit of land west end of the harbour. There's also a kids' play park here.

• Ivo

  address: Ul. Ante Starčevića 41, Makarska
  Good unpretentious fare.

• Jež

  address: Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 90, Makarska
  Mediterranean restaurant, good for seafood and meat dishes.

• Kalelarga

  address: Kalalarga 40, Makarska
  Fresh seafood, slow service so make a night of it. "You never know what you'll be eating" said one reviewer, who enjoyed the donkey in red wine.

• Restoran Herc

  address: Šetalište Dr. Franje Tuđmana, Makarska
  Good food and service.
• Restauran Berlin is a good choice on the beach strip near Hotel Park. It's part of Villa Kapulica, which rents apartments & rooms from €40 a night.

• Riva

  address: Obala kralja Tomislava 6a, Makarska
  Good sea-food restaurant. Busy people, they also run Café Bar Nautica, Pizzeria Centrum, a couple of villas, and a motor launch.

• Susvid

  address: Trg fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 8, Makarska
  Good seafood, steak and Med cuisine, cash only. They also own Peskera restaurant.

• Jeny

  phone: +385 91 587 8078
  address: Čovići, Tucepi
  Good restaurant especially the 5-7 course tasting menus - but expensive, and they only take cash.

• Konoba Veza

  phone: +385 21 623 224
  address: Srida Sela 1, Gornje Tucepi
  Good traditional restaurant up the hill above Tucepi.

• There are bars and cafes along the beach strip, while the dance clubs are around the harbour.

• DeepBar and dance club in a seaside grotto.

Budget

• Hostel Makarska Subtub

  phone: +385 21 615 372
  address: Prvosvibanjska 15
  First backpackers' hostel in Makarska. It is in a safe, quiet neighborhood. Peaceful, clean hostel with friendly atmosphere. It is run by a traveller who can give you all the info you need about Croatia. With dorms and en suite private rooms.

Mid-range

• Villa Buljubasic

  phone: +385 95 80 80 364
  address: Put Pozara 11b, 21300 Makarska
  Ten suites, all equipped with air conditioning, TV/satellite, WiFi, bathroom, fridge, balcony and grill area, 350 m from beach, with parking.

• Villa Alma

  phone: +385 98 967 4779
  address: Put Požara 11

• Vila Ventus

  phone: +385 91 5665374
  address: Molizanskih Hrvata 18A
  2 rooms with use of kitchen, 2 apartments with own kitchen, 2 double rooms, all with A/C, 5 min walk from the beach.

• Villa Jarak

  phone: +385 21 615 083
  address: Kralja Krešimira 108
  Open Apr-Nov, clean spacious apartments and rooms with balconies close to the beach; all rooms with AC, bathroom, satellite TV, free WiFi, and kitchen.

Splurge

• Hotel Dalmacija Sunny

  phone: +385 52 465 000
  address: Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 41
  Large 4-star on beach, some facilities need updating but generally to a good standard. Often used by package tours.

• Hotel Park

  phone: +385 21 608 200
  address: Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV
  Large central 4-star often used by package tour companies. Clean & comfy, friendly service; go B&B as the evening restaurant is nothing special.

• Split can easily be done as a day-trip by bus, though it deserves a longer stay. Further north are Trogir, Šibenik and Krka National Park.
• Dubrovnik is a must-see, but for a day-trip you're better joining an excursion, lots available. Reckon 300 kn for a non-guided tour, which will pick-up from central hotels. The public buses are slow and sparse - okay for transfers, but tedious for a day-trip. All transport has to cross Neum in Bosnia & Herzegovina.
• Sumartin on Brač island is an hour away by ferry.
• Hvar island can be reached by ferry from Drvenik, but it's better to sail from Split, a longer crossing but it brings you straight to the charming old town.