Mexico City/Centro

The Centro Histórico, the original foundation of Mexico City, was built on the ruins of Tenochtitlan, the Aztec empire capital established around 1325 and destroyed by the Spanish in 1521. It contains a lot of old buildings that date back to the 16th century. Due to its importance, it was included in UNESCO's list of world heritage places in 1987.

Other areas of the city are also experiencing closings for bicycle use only.

By metro

This is probably the best way to reach the Centro Histórico, however, all the stations in the area are consistently crowded, so be prepared and alert for pickpockets.
There are various Metro lines that connect the Centro Histórico with the rest of the city.

• Line 1 (pink): , and stations.
• Line 2 (blue): Pino Suarez, (your best choice for direct access), , , and stations.
• Line 3 (light green): Hidalgo, and stations.
• Line 8 (dark green): , Bellas Artes, and Salto del Agua stations.

By Turibus

The hop-in hop-off double-decker bus makes a stop just north of the Zócalo in Monte de Piedad street in the west side of the cathedral. The one-day pass costs M$140 (M$160 for English version of the excursion – do not forget to ask for your headphone!)

By Metrobús

Line 4 (orange) of the Metrobús system has two branches that ride through the Centro Histórico. Both branches run from the (Buenavista train station) to the (San Lazáro station) adjacent to the East Bus Terminal (TAPO). In both branches there are a few specially-marked buses that continue beyond San Lazáro to Mexico City's airport, serving both terminals. Buses going to or coming from the airport charge M$30 instead of the regular Metrobús fare (M$6), and you must have a travel card which can be purchased in 7-Elevens and in machines if you can find them (the one at the airport are near the exits).

By trolley bus

The Trolley Bus rides along Eje Central Avenue. Ask the driver to drop you off at Madero street.

By car

This is the least recommended way to get around Centro Histórico since the streets are always jammed with hundreds of cars especially during weekdays. Most streets are one-way only and many are closed to car traffic. If you dare to enter the area by car, you can do so from the west through Reforma and turning right at Avenida Juárez, or if you're coming from the south, you can reach through Calzada de Tlalpan which later becomes Avenida 20 de Noviembre.
There are several parking lots in the area (valet service) that charge M$14 an hour. A non-valet but expensive is available at Bellas Artes.

On foot

The best way to get around the Centro Histórico is definitely by foot. All tourist attractions are within walking distance.

By tourist trolley

This trolley (in Spanish Tranvia Turístico) departs from Avenida Juarez 66, between the Alameda and the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The ride lasts 45 minutes around many interesting spots in the area. Operating hours daily 10:00-17:00.

By pedicab

There are a few pedicabs that can carry you within the Centro Histórico.

Historic sites

• Plaza de la ConstituciónMeasuring 240m long on either side, the Zócalo is one of the largest squares in the world. It is flanked by the Metropolitan Cathedral and Sagrario to the north, and the National Palace to the east, as well as a number of other historic buildings. A huge Mexican flag occupies the center, which is ceremoniously lowered and re-raised each day at 18:00. A wide variety of events may be hosted here, including concerts, demonstrations or other more typical social gatherings. On New Year's Day, practitioners of Mexico's indigenous religions gather to bless believers for the coming year; Mexican independence is celebrated in the plaza on 15 and 16 September.

• Templo Mayor

  phone: +52 55 4040 5600 ext 412930
  address: C/ Seminario 8
  The site of the main Aztec temple of Tenochtitlan, it was destroyed by Spanish conquistadors in 1521, who then promptly erected the Cathedral roughly over it – but not quite. Centuries later, nearly completely forgotten, its actual location was discovered by accident in 1978 when electrical workers found a piece of a large stone disc depicting the goddess Coyolxauhqui. This sets off a few furious years of archaeological digging, resulting in a rather surprising (and extremely significant) discovery that nested underneath the original Aztec temple was six distinct smaller, older temples. You can see each layer walking through the dig site.

• Museo del Templo MayorThis excellent four-story museum was designed by Mexican architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, and built in 1987 to showcase the many artifacts found on the site. Highlights include the Coyolxauhqui disc as well as the many thousands of offerings found during the still-ongoing excavation.

Palacio Nacional

address: Plaza de la Constitución s/n

The palace in its current form began construction in 1693 and served as the Palace of the Viceroy of New Spain until the Mexican War of Independence, when it became the executive seat of the President (though today it is no longer his official residence). The walls inside the palace display murals by Diego Rivera depicting the history of Mexico from the pre-Columbian age to the Mexican Revolution. You can also visit the Recinto Legislativo, a replica of the first Mexican Congress, and tour the home of Benito Juárez. Tours in English are free; ask for one at the information desk.

Palacio de Iturbide

phone: +52 55 1226 0004

address: Francisco I Madero 17

One of the oldest buildings in town, built in the late 16th century, it was first home to the local nobility and later the residence of Mexican Emperor Agustin de Iturbide. The building is owned today by the Cultural Trust of Banco Nacional de Mexico, the Mexican branch of Citibank.

Plaza de la FundaciónThis place is allegedly where the Aztecs found the eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus (nopal), the divine sign of the gods to settle down and establish the city of Tenochtitlán. It features a sculpture by Juan Olaguibel made in 1970.

Nacional Monte de Piedad

address: Monte de Piedad and Cinco de Mayo

This building, which was completed in 1758, was built on the grounds of the house of Aztec emperor Moctezuma and later the residence of the Spanish conqueror Hernán Cortés. The building was acquired in 1838 by the Nacional Monte de Piedad, a pawn shop established in 1775 that still operates today.

Casa de la Primera Imprenta de América

phone: +52 55 5522 1535

address: Lic Francisco Primo de Verdad 10

This building, which dates from 1524, housed the first printing press in the New World, which operated from 1539 until 1560. After this time the building was used for a number of purposes until it was restored by the Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana (UAM) in 1989; it now houses a museum displaying some of the first books printed in Mexico.

Religious buildings

• Catedral Metropolitana de MéxicoThe largest cathedral in the American continent. Designed by Claudio de Arcinieaga, construction started in 1573 and lasted for more than 300 years. Be sure to check out the side chapels where parishioners leave offerings for the various saints. For a bird's-eye view of the plaza, you can take a 40-minute tour (Spanish language only) of the upper levels and bell towers of the cathedral (M$12).

• Sagrario MetropolitanoA side chapel next to the Cathedral completed in 1769. The façade is an excellent example of Mexican Churrigueresque architecture.

Templo de San Francisco

address: Francisco I Madero 7

This church was started in the 16th century and completed in the 19th century; it was built in the grounds of the zoo of Aztec Emperor Moctezuma.

Templo Expiatorio Nacional de San Felipe de Jesús

address: Francisco I Madero 9

Built in 1897 on the site of the former Vasque Church of Aranzazu.

Santa Teresa La Antigua

address: Licenciado Verdad 6

Built in 1678 and refurbished in 1845.

Templo de la Enseñanza

address: Donceles 104

Tucked away on a side street, this very narrow gem of a church was built in the 1770s and is notable for being an outstanding example of Mexican Churrigueresque architecture. Even more remarkable than the façade, however, are the nine gilt retablos inside.

Plazas

• Plaza de Santo DomingoThe second largest square in Centro Histórico after the Zócalo. It is surrounded by various important buildings such as the Palacio de la Inquisición, Santo Domingo convent and the old Customs House.

• Museo de la Medicina Mexicana

  phone: +52 55 5623 3123
  address: República de Brasil 33
  This museum managed by the Medicine Faculty of the National University now shows the history of health care in Mexico since the 19th century. Features a great replica of an old pharmacy. It is housed in the Inquisition Palace, built between 1732 and 1737, which was the head office of the Holy Inquisition, the religious authority famous for torturing heretic people.

Plaza Manuel GamioFeatures an open-air diorama of the old Tenochtitlán.

Plaza Manuel Tolsá

address: Tacuba 8

In this beautiful square you can find the Palacio de Minería, the National Art Museum and the statue of Spanish king Charles IV also known as El Caballito (the little horse).

• Museo Nacional de Arte

  phone: +52 55 8647 5430
  address: Tacuba 8
  Housed in the former Palace of Telecommunications, this beautiful Porfirian-style building was built in 1904 by architect Silvio Contri. The museum presents a permanent collection of early Mexican paintings as well as other temporary exhibits.

• Palacio de Minería

  phone: +52 55 5623 2929
  address: Tacuba 5
  Formerly the Mining College, this building dated from 1792 features an old library and a chapel. It serves as venue for the yearly Mexico City Book Fair.

Plaza de las Tres Culturas

address: Lázaro Cárdenas Eje

So called because in one city square you can see three different time periods of Mexico City's development mixed together: the pre-hispanic Aztec temple grounds of Tlatelolco, the 16th-century Spanish Church of Santiago, and a modern 20th-century skyscraper, now home of the University Cultural Center Tlatelolco (CCUT) for UNAM.

• Zona Arquelógica TlatelolcoThe temple, like Tenochtitlan's Templo Mayor, was built in several layers and is now the site of continuing archaeological exploration; it occupies the largest amount of area, on the north and west side of the plaza. If you're not around for the tour, you can guide yourself along the path (complete with English plaques) that takes you through the ruins, which deposits you in front of the Church of Santiago, on the east side of the plaza.

• Templo de SantiagoThe colonial church, built by Spaniards immediately after destroying the temple in their conquest of Aztec lands, was constructed using stones "borrowed" from the temple itself. Despite its weathered appearance, the interior is well-maintained and should still hold regular Mass, although doors may not always be open to the public.

• Centro Cultural Universitario Tlatelolco

  phone: +52 55 5117 2818 x49646
  address: Ricardo Flores Magón 1
  To the south, you'll see the modern-day tower and its adjacent buildings, which were built for the Secretary of External Relations (SRE), now headquartered across the street (though they still have offices in the church's adjoining cloister). UNAM runs the building as a conference hall and cultural center, and has a few exhibits open to the public: Memorial 68 (see Museums, below) and the Blaisten Collection, showcasing modern art.

Museums

Mexico City prides itself in having the largest number of museums in the world, and most of these museums are in Centro Historico. Highly recommended are the Museo Nacional de Arte, Museo del Templo Mayor and Museo Franz Mayer. Remember most museums are closed on Mondays.

Art museums

• Museo Franz Mayer

  phone: +52 55 5518 2266
  address: Hidalgo 45
  Housed in a 18th century building, houses the largest and finest collection of decorative arts in Mexico. The collection, including objects from Mexico, Europe and Asia ranging from the 16th to the 19th century was a donation of German-Mexican philantropist Franz Mayer.

• Museo José Luis Cuevas

  phone: +52 55 5522 0156
  address: Academía 13
  Housed in the former convent of Santa Ines built in 1600. The museum's collection features works by Mexican artist Jose Luis Cuevas and also presents some works from Picasso and Rembrandt.

• Academía de San Carlos

  phone: +52 55 5522 0630
  address: Academía 22
  Housed in a building dated 1785 originally conceived as the former Royal Academy of Beaux Arts. It is administered by the National University and features permanent and temporary painting collections.

• Museo Mural Diego Rivera

  phone: +52 55 5512 0754
  address: Puente de Alvarado 50
  This museum was built to house Diego Rivera's famous mural Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central ('Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central'), which the painter created for the Hotel del Prado in 1947-1948. The hotel was destroyed in the earthquake of 1985, but the mural survived and was moved to this location. The museum also hosts permanent and temporary exhibits.

• Museo Nacional de la Estampa

  phone: +52 55 5510 4905
  address: Avda Hidalgo 39
  Features a collection of old engravings and other graphic arts.

History museums

• Museo de la Ciudad de México

  phone: +52 55 5522 9936
  address: José María Pino Suárez 30
  This museum presents the history of the city in an 18th century mansion; the building itself is possibly more interesting than the contents. It is believed that a conquistador's house was previously on the site, as evidenced by the southwest cornerstone of an Aztec serpent head likely taken from the Templo Mayor.

• Memorial del 68

  address: Avda Ricardo Flores Magón 1
  In UNAM's University Cultural Center Tlatelolco (CCUT) at the Plaza de las Tres Culturas (see Landmarks, above), Memorial 68 is a well-put together museum chronicling the events surrounding the police massacre of student protesters at Tlatelolco in 1968, around the time of the Summer Olympics, which were hosted in Mexico City that year. It's definitely worth a look, but all explanatory text and video interviews are in Spanish only, so brush up your vocabulary or bring a translator.

• Museo Memoria y Tolerancia

  phone: +52 55 5130 5555
  address: Plaza Juárez
  Opened in 2010, this museum is dedicated to the remembrance of genocides and crimes against humanity committed around the globe, with the goal of promoting peace and tolerance. Separate sections of the museum are devoted to the Holocaust, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Rwanda, the Khmer Rouge, Darfur, Armenia, and Guatemala.

Garment museums

• Museo de la Indumentaria Mexicana

  address: Izazaga and 5 de Febrero
  Collection of traditional Mexican clothing.

• Museo del Calzado El Borceguí

  address: C/ Bolivar 27, 1st Floor
  Private collection of old shoes from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. The museum belongs to the shoe store El Borcegui, established in 1865 and still selling shoes today.

Other museums

• Museo Nacional de las Culturas

  phone: +52 55 5542 0187
  address: C/ Moneda 13
  Housed in the former Mint building built in 1734. The museum is dedicated to anthropology of the world.

• Centro Cultural de España en México

  phone: +52 5521 1925
  address: República de Guatemala 18
  This is the official cultural center from the Spanish Embassy and features temporary exhibits.

• Museo de San Ildefonso

  phone: +52 55 5702 2991
  address: Justo Sierra 16
  Managed by the National University, this museum features great permanent and temporary exhibits.

• Museo del Estanquillo

  phone: +52 55 5521 3052
  address: Isabel La Católica 26
  One of the newest museums in the city, this contains the personal collection of paintings, photography, and books of the Mexican journalist and writer Carlos Monsivais.

• Museo de la Caricatura

  phone: +52 55 5702 9256
  address: C/ Donceles 99
  Depicting the history of Mexican cartoons (political and amusing cartoons).

• Museo de la Luz

  phone: +52 55 5702 4129
  address: El Carmen 31
  Managed by the National University, this museum is mostly for students on everything to do with light (photography, electricity, vision, etc).

• Museo de la Charrería

  phone: +52 55 5709 4793
  address: José María Izazaga 89
  This museum features everything about the Mexican Cowboy, known as Charro.

Other attractions

• Palacio de Bellas Artes

  phone: +52 55 5512 2593
  address: Avenida Juárez and Eje Central
  Designed by Italian architect Adamo Boari. Construction started in 1905, however due to the Revolution War, it was not completed until 1934. The building is so heavy that it has sunk 4½m into the former lakebed. It is considered to be one of the best examples of Mexican Art Deco architecture; architectural and interior features include its copper cupolas and a Tiffany stained-glass stage curtain designed by Mexican painter Gerardo Murillo.

• The main attraction for visitors is the building's collection of large murals on the 2nd and 3rd floors, by David Siqueiros, Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, and Juan O'Gorman. Of these, highlights include Siqueiros' masterpiece Nueva democracia and Rivera's El hombre contralor del Universo, a reproduction of the original commissioned and destroyed by Nelson Rockefeller in New York.

Secretaría de Educación Pública

phone: +52 55 3601 1000

address: Republica de Argentina 28

This former convent, built in 1729 and now housing the Education Secretariat, should not be missed by Diego Rivera fans. The building has 124 mural panels extending over two city blocks and filling three levels, with the most elaborate panels on the ground floor. There is also a David Alfaro Siqueiros mural in the main stairwell. Photography permitted, no flash.

Palacio Postal

address: Tacuba 1

One of the most beautiful buildings in the country and considered a National Heritage Building. Built in 1906, this European style building houses the main post office. Most of the materials used to build it were brought from Italy.

• Museo Postal

  phone: +52 55 5510 2999
  address: Tacuba 1
  Housed in the Postal Palace, features old postal stationery and mail boxes.

Torre Latinoamerica

address: Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 2

Construction started in 1948 and was completed in 1956. This was Mexico's first skyscraper, boasting 44 floors and 182 meters. There is an observatory in the 42nd floor.

Banco de México

address: Cinco de Mayo and Avda Eje Central

Office of the Mexican Central Bank, built in 1925.

Suprema Corte de Justicia de la NaciónThis building was completed in 1945 and was designed by architect Antonio Muñoz Garcia.

Centro de la Imagen

phone: +52 55 4155 0850

address: Plaza de la Ciudadela 2

This is one of Mexico City's premier exhibition spaces for photography, with rotating exhibits of work by Mexican and international photographers. The center also has a small bookstore.

Biblioteca Miguel Lerdo de Tejada

phone: +52 55 3688 9837

address: República de El Salvador 49

This Baroque building was built as a church, but in the 1960s was repurposed to house a library. For visitors the primary interest is a series of enormous murals painted by the Russian emigré painter Vladimir Kibalchich Russakov (known in Mexico simply as Vlady). The murals in the main room are titled La Revolución y los Elementos (or 'Revolution and the Elements'). They required eight years to complete and are considered to be among the artist's most well-known works.

Biblioteca de México José Vasconcelos

phone: +52 55 4155 0830

address: Plaza de la Ciudadela No 4

Located in a former tobacco factory, it is one of the largest libraries in the city. It contains several beautiful courtyards and smaller libraries decorated according to the character of different Mexican authors who donated their book collections to the library.

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

phone: +55 9157 2800

address: Eje 1 norte Mosqueta s/n

Next to Buenavista train station, it is the largest library in Mexico and functions as a central library for other libraries in the country. It is housed in an impressive modern building filled with artworks and book shelves that hang from the ceiling. The ground floor houses free temporary exhibits and the grounds include a botanical garden with native plants.

Other interesting adjacent neighborhoods

• Colonia San RafaelColonia San Rafael is just 1 km west of the historic city center. It was established in the late 19th century as one of the first formal neighborhoods outside of the city center and initially catered to the wealthy of the Porfirio Díaz era. These early residents built large mansions, many with French influence, and many still remain. This neighbourhood has now a large number of movie theatres and Museums (El eco, El Chopo, El Museo Nacional San Carlos) and galleries Yautepec, La 77, @ El patio 77 B&B, Hilario Galguera.

• Colonia Santa María la RiberaA colonia in the Cuauhtémoc borough of Mexico City, 2 km west of the historic center. This area was designated as a "Barrio Mágico" by the city in 2011 and it was created in the late 19th century. The colonia reached its height between 1910 and 1930. In the 1930s, the middle class moved in and a new era of construction began. Today, the colonia is a mix of old mansions and homes (with over 1,000 categorized has having architectural or historic value), small shops and businesses, tenements and abandoned buildings. The colonia has one major park Alameda and museums (Museo de Antropologia, Museo de Geologia de la UNAM as well as reopened Chopo museum housed in a cathedral like building, it is undergoing a dramatic modernist makeover by Enrique Norten, the star architect who lives in Mexico City and New York.

Until the 1950s the Centro Histórico was the main shopping district of the city. Many of the prestigious department stores of the country such as Liverpool and El Palacio de Hierro opened their first stores here. Today, the area is still one of the busiest shopping areas of the city. The area has several streets dedicated to a particular kind of shopping, something inherited from the Spanish. Shopping in the Centro is a real back-in-time experience as many of the spaces where the stores are located are truly historic.

Markets

• Mercado de la Merced

  address: bounded by Santa Escuela, General Anaya, Rosario, and Cerrado del Rosario
  One of the largest and most famous markets in Mexico, La Merced was built in 1890 and covers several blocks.

• Mercado de Sonora

  address: Av Fray Servando Teresa de Mier
  One of the more interesting markets, this specializes in traditional medicines, as well as paraphernalia for Santa Muerte and voodoo. Endangered animals are also sold here, and the market is regularly raided by the police.

• Mercado de San JuanSpecializing in gourmet foods, this market is frequented by many of Mexico City's top chefs. On offer are many foods imported from Europe and elsewhere, including such specialties as European cheeses, Spanish and Italian sausage, and pre-Hispanic foods.

• Mercado de Artesanías de San Juan

  phone: +52 55 5521 7846
  address: Ayuntamiento s/n
  Vendors here sell a full range of Mexican handicrafts from across the country, including pottery, textiles, carving, leatherwork, and jewelry.

• Mercado de la Ciudadela

  phone: +52 55 5510 1828
  address: C Balderas 97

• Mercado Lagunilla

  address: Prolongación Paseo de la Reforma and Francisco Bocanegra
  This huge street market features antiques and other new goods such as clothing, crafts, food, jewelry and toys. It is considered safe to stroll in this street market, but try to remain in the streets near Francisco Bocanegra and Comonfor, because beyond that the market eventually blends into Tepito, another market which is a lot less safe.

Specialized streets

• Avenida de República de SalvadorThe first half of the street (from Avenida Eje Central Avenue to Avenida Isabel la Católica) specializes in all sorts of electronics. From spare and parts (speakers, wiring, transistors) to complete home theater systems, audio mixers and lighting for dance clubs. The other half of the street (from Isabel la Católica) specializes in stationery and paper.

• Avenida Eje CentralYou will notice that this street is full of street vendors. Be careful, the area is extremely crowded making it a paradise for pickpockets. Between the streets of República del Salvador and República de Uruguay, there is a shopping center known as as well as the . Both are enormous indoor markets of little stalls hawking computer parts and electronics.

• Calle del Artículo 123Specializes in appliances, from spare and parts to industrial vacuums and blenders.

• Calle VictoriaSpecializes in lighting, from wiring and electric outlets to chandeliers and lamps.

• Calle de DoncelesSpecializes in photography.

• Calle de República de CubaSpecializes in printing (books, posters, thesis). In this street there are a few libraries selling very old books (18th and 19th centuries).

• Barrio Chino

  address: Calle Dolores
  This street has become a pedestrian-only street full of Chinese restaurants and stores.

Department stores

• El Palacio de Hierro

  phone: +52 55 5229 3154
  address: Avda 20 de Noviembre 3
  This department store was established in 1891. The name of this store, (The Iron Palace) was named like that after it was the first iron and steel building in the city.

• Liverpool

  phone: +52 55 5133 2800
  address: Venustiano Carranza 92
  This department store is housed in an Art-Deco building that was built in the late 1920s.

• Sanborns

  phone: +52 55 5512 1331
  address: Francisco I Madero 4
  This department store and restaurant is housed in the former residency of the Counts of the Valley of Orizaba, and is a must-see for any visitor to Mexico City. Revolutionist Emiliano Zapata had breakfast here during his entrance to Mexico City in September 1916. This was the first store of the Mexican Sanborns chain, founded by the Sanborn brothers, American immigrants in Mexico City and later sold to Walgreens in 1946 and then to Grupo Carso in 1985. There are more than 100 Sanborns stores in the country today.

• Sanborns

  phone: +52 55 5518 1038
  address: Isabel la Católica 35
  This department store is housed in a building completed in 1900 named 'Casa Boker' after a warehouse store with that name that still occupies part of the building.

• El Nuevo Mundo

  phone: +52 55 5130 0353
  address: Venustiano Carranza 72
  Still contains old fashioned practices such as old-style shopping processes. When decide to buying something, the salesman will prepare a small receipt, then you take it to the cashier to pay.

• C&A

  phone: +52 55 5130 0360
  address: Venustiano Carranza 79
  Netherlands-based department store fashion retailer.

Bakeries

• Pastelería Ideal

  phone: +52 55 5512 2522
  address: República de Uruguay 74
  Established in 1927. This is a good place for traditional bread, pastries and desserts. Ask for Danes de Chocolate, the place's delicacy.

• Pastelería Ideal

  phone: +52 55 5130 2970
  address: Av 16 de Septiembre 18
  Another branch of the famous bakery. On the 1st floor is an interesting exhibit of the types of cakes they can create on commission, many of them outrageously decadent.

Shopping malls

There are a few shopping malls in and around the Centro Histórico.

• Forum Buenavista

  phone: +52 5541 4533
  address: Avda Insurgentes
  The largest shopping mall close to the centro. Includes a large supermarket.

• Patio Juárez

  address: Avda Juárez
  A small shopping mall.

• Café de Tacuba

  phone: +52 55 5521 2048
  address: Calle de Tacuba 28
  Housed in a former convent, this institution serves up tasty Mexican dishes all day for reasonable prices. It is very popular so arrive early. Menu is in English and Spanish.

• Cafeteria El Cuadrilatero

  phone: +52 55 5510 2856
  address: Luis Moya 73
  This torteria is owned by former luchador Super Astro, and serves not only tortas but also standard Mexican fare. Their enormous torta Super Gladiator is free if you can eat the whole thing in 15 minutes.

• La Opera Bar

  phone: +52 55 5512 8959
  address: Cinco de Mayo 10
  This restaurant has been serving Mexican food since the early 1900s and retains the same furniture since then. When you get there, look up to the ceiling, as you will see the famous gun shot accidentally fired by Pancho Villa.

• Café el Popular

  phone: +52 55 5518 6081
  address: Cinco de Mayo 52
  A quintessential breakfast joint offering a range of tasty egg dishes for well under US$4 and surrealistically low chrome ceilings.

• Dulcería de Celaya

  phone: +52 55 5521 1787
  address: Cinco de Mayo 39
  This confectionery shop sells old fashioned sweets. It was established in 1874 and still has its original cabinets from that age.

• Ostionería Las PalmasFantastic ceviche, superior huachinango al ajillo; everything very fresh, very tasty and very inexpensive.

• La Terraza

  phone: +52 55 5521 8600
  address: Francisco I Madero 73
  Restaurant on the roof of the Hotel Majestic overlooking the Zócalo, with stunning panoramic views of the city.

• El Huequito

  phone: +52 55 5510 4199
  address: Av Bolivar 58
  This taco joint is good if you want to try tacos al pastor, as featured in Anthony Bourdain's Mexico show.

• El Ehden

  phone: +52 55 5542 2320
  address: Venustiano Carranza 148, 2nd floor
  This restaurant is favored by the local Mexican-Lebanese community, many of whom still own the small businesses and textile shops in the immediate area. It serves a range of standard Lebanese dishes, including an excellent mezze.

• El Mayor

  phone: +52 55 5704 7580, +52 55 5704 7584
  address: Calle República de Argentina #15
  A newer rooftop establishment with great seating overlooking the Templo Mayor, this restaurant specializes in creative twists to traditional Mexican dishes. It's very popular for lunch, so it's best to arrive early.

• Hostería de Santo Domingo

  phone: +52 55 5510 1434
  address: Belisario Domínguez 70-72
  Housed in a former inn, this restaurant opened in 1860 and is the oldest restaurant in Mexico City. It serves classic traditional Mexican dishes in a lively atmosphere, and is very popular with residents.

The Centro Histórico is the best place to partake in traditional cantina fare, including drinks where light meals and appetizers, called botanas, are served alongside for free. There are cantinas everywhere in the neighborhood, all with interesting historical significance, live music, and interesting business types from the area. They are typically a male hangout, but women are accepted and safe, just be prepared to get some special attention if you show up.

• Salón Tenampa

  phone: +52 55 5526 6176
  address: Plaza Garibaldi 12
  The original and most famous Mexican cantina, traditional home to the bohemians and mariachis of the 40s and 50s. Huge selection of tequila and mezcal, light Mexican food, and mariachi bands.

• El patio 77

  phone: +52 55 55928452, +52 15554550332
  address: García Icazbalceta, 77, Col San Rafael
  El patio 77 is the first eco-friendly B&B in Mexico City. This only 8 rooms' eco-friendly B&B is a huge French style mansion from the 19th century.

• Casa de los Amigos

  phone: +52 55 5705 0521, +52 55 5705 0646
  address: Ignacio Mariscal 132, Col Tabacalera
  Established in the 1950s by the Quaker community in Mexico City, the Casa continues to be actively involved in local activities with a stated mission of promoting peace and international understanding. They run an affordable guest house (with either private rooms or dorm beds) with a two-night minimum, and is popular with international students or volunteers on extended stays, though there are still many who are "just tourists."

• Hostel Mundo Joven Catedral

  phone: +52 55 5518 1726
  address: República de Guatemala 4
  A clean and safe hotel in a perfect location. Some rooms have partial views of the rear of the cathedral, but these are noisy due to the church bells. While rooms are quite simple, everything looks and feels fresh. Discount with a Hosteling International card.

• Hotel Principal

  phone: +52 55 5521 1333
  address: Calle de Bolívar 29
  Clean, friendly, and well run hotel with a range of rooms. Most overlook a quiet inner courtyard. Doubles from a little over US$20.

• Best Western Hotel Majestic

  phone: +52 55 5521 8600
  address: Av Madero 73
  The location is great, the rooms are clean and comfortable but the service is vaudevillian. The restaurant on the top floor has a superb view of the Cathedral and Presidential Palace but the food isn't worthy of the atmosphere.

• Hostel Moneda

  phone: +52 55 800 221 72 65
  address: Moneda 8
  Cheap and lively hostel with a good bar on the top floor, free buffet breakfast and dinner and free internet access. It's a good place for backpackers looking to party and it has a small book exchange. Rooms are basic but clean with bathrooms accessible from the dorms. Staff is helpful and speak English.

• Hotel Tuxpan

  address: Republica de Colombia
  A very good deal that is only a few blocks to the Zocalo. Clean with cable TV, nice restrooms, and mirrors on the ceiling. Only M$110 a night.

• Hotel Virreyes

  phone: +52 55 5521 4180
  address: Izazaga 8
  A former luxury hotel turned funky backpacker hostel, the Virreyes has spacious rooms, albeit with simple thrift furniture and a lobby that turns into a cinema, music spot and a place to hang. Former Virreyes occupants include Hollywood stars Rock Hudson and Piper Laurie and Mexican prizefighter Kid Azteca.

• Hotel de Cortes

  phone: +52 55 5518 2181
  address: Avda Hidalgo 85
  This charming and atmospheric inn has lodged travellers since its beginnings as a hostel for Augustinian missionaries. The former friars' quarters are comfortable, and continuing renovations and polishing are pleasing to those seeking a unique experience. Has an on-site restaurant, private parking, and free Wi-Fi.

• Hotel Juarez

  address: 1A Cjon De Cinco de Mayo 17
  Just east of the intersection of 5 de Mayo and Isabel la Catolica, a well taken care of budget hotel. Large rooms, TV, phone (free local calls) and private bathroom, very central location. Rooms may not all have windows.
• Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, Plaza de la Constitucion (Zocalo). Also known as "Centro Mercantil", this building built in 1899 was once a luxurious shopping center. It was converted into a hotel in 1966. The lobby of this place was featured in the film "Frida".

• Hostel Mexico City

  phone: +52 55 5512-3666, +52 55 5512-7731
  address: República de Brasil #8
  Close to the Zócalo in the Historic Center. Breakfast included, Internet, laundry, lockers, tours and tourist information.

Overall, walking in the Centro Historico is safe. The best recommendation is to avoid those streets with an excessive number of street vendors. Use your common sense.