Mexico City/Coyoacán

Coyoacán (from Nahuatl: place of coyotes) has been populated since pre-Hispanic times, when it was a settlement on the southern shore of Lake Texcoco. During and after the conquest it was Spain's headquarters for several years; some of the oldest Spanish buildings still standing in Mexico are located here. The city was independent until well into the mid-20th century, when it was subsumed into Mexico City. Even today the district has retained its colonial charm, and when strolling in the old town center it is easy to forget that one is immersed in the megalopolis of greater Mexico City.
Coyoacán is also the seat of UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico), the oldest university in North America and the largest in Latin America, which has itself been declared a UNESCO site. The active student body contributes to the bohemian and liberal atmosphere of the district.

By metro

Metro stations are not conveniently located to the Coyoacán center – don't let the existence of a Coyoacán station (Line 3) fool you. Be prepared for at least a twenty-minute walk from any of the nearest stations: , , and (all on Line 3). The neighborhood is safe, so you shouldn't have a problem if you decide to walk from the metro. You may also approach from station (Line 2); take the Calle 20 de Agosto exit for a picturesque twenty minute walk to the Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky museums.

By microbus

If you don't fancy a 20-minute walk from Metro Coyoacan to the main square Plaza Hidalgo, you can take a microbus also known as a pesero. These are the small green and grey buses that can be seen breaking road rules all over the city. As you leave either exit of Metro Coyoacan, cross the to the other side of the large road directly outside the metro (Avenida Universidad). Peseros will stop outside all metro stations, and all display their destinations in the front windscreen. Look for a sign saying Plaza Hidalgo, or ask the driver.

Landmarks

In the general center of Coyoacán there is a pair of large squares, and , which together are the center for a lot of the activity in the area. On Saturdays and Sundays, there's an open-air market in the squares, mostly focusing on arts and crafts, clothes (a lot of tie-dye and T-shirts), piercings and tattoos. With a bit of selectivity, and some haggling, you can pick up a lot of interesting things here, and none of them are horribly touristy or tacky. There are also impromptu African dance performances, Aztec dancers, fortune tellers, and lots more to see. The market square is surrounded by cafes and restaurants, as well as a small 16th century church and a small public library. In the smaller streets nearby are even more cafes and restaurants, as well as stores selling antiques, clothes, crafts, and so on.
The small neighborhood around the Anahuacalli Museum has several nice cafes and a quiet charm; it is popular with university students and creative bohemian types.

• Capilla de la Purísima Concepción

  address: Plaza de la Conchita
  Built in 1521 under Cortés, this is believed to be the earliest Christian building in Mexico City. As of August 2014 the chapel is undergoing restoration and is not open to the public.

• Casa de la Malinche

  address: Higuera 55
  Cortés had this house built for his Nahua mistress/interpreter, and many historians believe that he had his Spanish wife murdered here. Despite the house's historic and aesthetic significance, it is not marked by any plaques as many Mexicans today consider la Malinche a traitor. The building is not open to the public, but can be appreciated from outside.

• Rectoría de la UNAMThe main campus of UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico), known as Ciudad Universitaria, was declared a UNESCO site in 2007. For David Alfaro Siqueiros fans, the rectory building is of interest because of its large three-dimensional mosaic mural El pueblo a la Universidad, la Universidad al pueblo (The People to the University, the University to the People), created by the Mexican master from 1952-1956.

• Biblioteca CentralThe building's four sides are covered by the mural Historical Representation of Culture, created by the Mexican artist Juan O'Gorman. His masterpiece has become the most iconic building of UNAM and of Mexican culture. In July 2007, UNESCO proclaimed the Central Library and the Central Campus of the University City as World Heritage.

Museums

• Museo Frida Kahlo

  phone: +52 55 5554 5999, +52 55 5658 5778
  address: Londres 247
  Also known as La Casa Azul, this walled hacienda painted brilliant indigo blue, is where the much-revered Mexican artist spent the last years of her life. Admission includes access to the courtyard, a small series of galleries with ever-changing displays, and the historical portion of the house, which has been preserved from the days when Kahlo was alive. A small snack bar and museum shop are also on the premises, and lectures are given periodically. An iPod tour can be taken for an extra fee and if you'd like to take pictures or videos, an extra fee of M$30 will be assessed.

• Museo Diego Rivera-Anahuacalli

  phone: +52 55 5617 4310, +52 55 5617 3797
  address: C/ Museo 150
  Artist and muralist Diego Rivera built this structure to serve both as his studio and a museum to hold his collection of pre-Columbian art. The imposing neo-Aztec building sits in a parklike environment that is one of the few wildlife refuges in Mexico City. Guided tours of the main structure (in Spanish only) are given every hour or so. There is also a small gallery where art, music, and dance lessons, lectures, and concerts are held; check the placard at the entrance for details on what is being offered for the month. Secondary school groups make frequent outings.

• Museo Casa de León Trotsky

  phone: +52 55 5554 0687
  address: Viena 45, Col. Del Carmen
  Marxist theorist Leon Trotsky was granted asylum in Mexico after being expelled from the Soviet Union, where he settled in Coyoacán in 1936. He continued to be vocally critical of Stalin's policies, however, and four years later he was assassinated in his home. The museum preserves the house in much the condition as it was in Trotsky's last days.

• Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares

  phone: +52 55 4155 0920
  address: Av Hidalgo 289
  This museum offers homage to the many different indigenous cultures of Mexico, celebrating folk art, music, gastronomy, and more. They also have an impressive bookshop with art for sale from skilled artisans from all over the country.

• Museo Nacional de Acuarela Alfredo Guati Rojo

  phone: +52 55 5554 1801
  address: C/ Salvador Novo 88
  Housed in the former residence of Mexican artist Alfredo Guati Rojo, the museum is dedicated to preserving and exhibiting watercolor painting, by Mexican and international artists. Pieces in its permanent collection span from pre-Hispanic to modern times, and the building is a venue for temporary exhibits.

• Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo

  phone: +52 55 5622 6972
  address: Insurgentes 3000
  Located on the UNAM campus, this museum hosts temporary exhibits of contemporary Mexican and international artists, as well as rotating displays from its permanent art collection.

• Wander the old churches around the neighborhood
• Inspect the interesting crafts, souvenirs, and trinkets for sale in the central squares and surrounding markets, and watch children play with various entertaining toys, balloons, balls, etc.
• Watch a music or dance performance

• Cineteca Nacional

  phone: +52 55 4155 1200
  address: Avda México Coyoacán 389
  Designed by Mexican architect Manuel Rocha Díaz and completed in 1984, the Cineteca is dedicated to the preservation and showing of films in Mexico. This is a venue for current releases as well as classic films, and hosts a number of film festivals throughout the year.

• Viveros de CoyoacánA large expanse of greenery and trails that used to be divided into privately owned gardens and farm plots, but is now a public park popular with people joggers and amblers alike.

• Mercado de Coyoacán

  address: Ignacio Allende s/n
  A traditional Mexican market with a large selection of produce and food items as well as other goods; Frida Kahlo used to shop herself. There are also a number of food stalls here, making this a good place to stop for lunch.

• Bazar Artesanal Mexicano

  address: Felipe Carrillo Puerto
  An arts and crafts market with good quality items.

• Casa de Luna

  phone: +52 56 597 325
  address: Ortega 23
  Fair trade store that offers a beautiful selection of traditional Mexican folk art and an eclectic assortment of jewelry, textiles, Mexican-kitsch, nichos, Day of the Dead images, market bags, masks, milagros, etc. – varied but carefully curated. The upstairs gallery displays Mexican contemporary artwork.

• Bazar Casa del Coleccionista

  address: Francisco Sosa 1
  This place sells lots of vintage items, including china ware, toys, paintings, and ornaments.

Cafes

• Café Ruta de la Seda

  phone: +52 3869 4888
  address: Aurora 1
  Look for a small, green stucco building, without even a sign over the door, with the only indication that it's a cafe in this residential neighborhood are the tables and chairs out on the sidewalk. True to its hippie, progressive environment, this tiny cafe serves organic pastries and coffee, and has some Indian food on the menu (samosas, mango lassi). Try the green tea cake with ice cream, also made of green tea.

• Café El Jarocho

  phone: +52 55 5554 5418
  address: Calle Cuauhtémoc 134
  This is a very old, family-owned coffee roaster's shop, and there are now at least three locations in Coyoacán. They have really good and cheap coffee, bad and cheap tortas (sandwiches in French bread), and reasonably standard American-style donuts. There are benches on the sidewalk just outside the Jarocho shops where you can sit to drink your coffee, or you can do like everyone else in Coyoacán and just stroll around the park with your Jarocho foam cup in your hand. On weekends, expect to wait in line to order your coffee. A long wait in line for coffee, a bag of fresh churros, and a conversation in Coyoacán's plaza is a quintessential Mexico City date.

• Bizarro Café

  phone: +52 55 5659 8453
  address: Cuauhtemoc 168a
  A comfortable goth hangout. There is a really good bakery next door.

• La Selva Café

  phone: +52 55 5554 4070
  address: Jardín del Centenario 4
  A perennial student hangout, also serving baguettes and cakes.

Restaurants

• El Morral

  address: Caballocalco
  Very good Mexican food. Don't miss the chiles en nogada, large chiles stuffed with ground beef, raisins, and nuts, and covered with a nut cream sauce. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service can be a bit slow though.

• El Jardin del Pulpo

  address: Mercado Coyoacan, Malintzin 89 L24-25
  The "Octopus's Garden" is a casual marisqueria, or seafood place, featuring ceviche, seafood paella, whole roast fish, and even fish and chips. Dining is cafeteria-style at long tables under an awning. If you want fresh juices, agua frescas, or ice cream, those are available from two shops next door.

• Los Danzantes

  phone: +52 55 5554 1213, +52 55 5658 6451
  address: Plaza Jardin Centenario 12
  Somewhat pricey modern international cuisine with twists on traditional Mexican dishes. They also bottle and sell their own brand of mezcál. Try the seafood-chipotle chili soup, the goat cheese-filled chicken breast with chipotle chili sauce, and, if you can afford the $200 price tag, the escamoles (ant eggs) sol azteca as a starter (small, but can be shared between two people).

• Cantina La Guadalupana

  phone: +52 55 5554 6253
  address: Higuera 14
  Very good Mexican food and good drinking with the locals; Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera used to spend time here. Don't miss the "Mole," "Michele's favorite" or carne tartara. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service is good, make friends with the Meseros; they are cool.

• La Bipolar

  phone: +52 55 5484 8230
  address: Malintzin 155
  A tacky-fun restaurant/cantina owned by Mexican actor Diego Luna. Good place to go for drinks and a light meal. Try the shrimp burrito.

• Taro

  phone: +52 55 5661 4083
  address: Av Universidad 1861
  Probably the best Japanese food in Mexico City, owned by Japanese. Many Japanese people come here for lunch and dinner, so they attest to the authenticity of the meals – you won't find maki rolls with cream cheese here. Don't miss their spicy octopus entrée and the ice-cream tempura for dessert.

Grab-a-bite places

• Taquería Aguayo 1

  address: Aguayo, approx. No. 14
  Just off of the Plaza Hidalgo, this little hole in the wall has some of the best traditional food in Mexico City. Their flautas are especially delicious, both the cheese (queso) and steak (barbacoa) variety. A tight squeeze (they don't seat very many), but well worth it, and very clean. An order of flautas (brings 4) is $28 MXN ($7 apiece – best deal anywhere for something this good); quesadillas and tostadas are $7 each, and tacos $10; they also offer tortas and other traditional dishes. Very fast, efficient service. Located on Aguayo, north of the Plaza Hidalgo. If you are in the Jardín Hidalgo, with your back to the garden/kiosk and facing the colonial Casa Municipal, head left in front of the Casa Municipal and make a right on Aguayo (round the corner where the Banamex is). Stay on the right sidewalk; the taquería will be past the Restaurant El Tizoncito and Rosticería Molinos, and across the street from a BANORTE. A red awning hangs in front; the name is found only on the menu board inside.

• Las Nieves de Coyoacán

  address: Carrillo Puerto
  One of the best sorbets in the city. Try the ones made from exotic fruits: guanábana, zapote, maracuya, tuna (cactus fruit). The coconut-flavored paletas (popsicles) are also a treat.

• Tepoznieves

  address: Av Francisco Sosa 1, Local 1
  Features excellent flavors such as Beso de Angel (angel kiss), Mil Floes (thousand flowers) and spicy sorbets!

• Churrería General de la República

  address: Ignacio Allende 38
  Churros are not too popular in Mexico City, but there are a number of places in Coyoacán (including street stands) that have them. The Churreria is a good place with excellent churros and you can fill it with a number of ingredients, like chocolate, fresa (strawberry), durazno (peach), lechera (milk), zarzamora (blackberry) and more.

• Street foodThe main plaza, at different times of the year, might have street food vendors that sell extremely good flautas (long, deep fried tacos), as well as buñuelos (deep fried sugar-coated bread), esquites, and elotes (corn with chile, mayonnaise, lime, and cheese).

• El Chupacabras

  address: Close to Metro Coyoacán
  These are some of the most famous street tacos in Mexico City. Their speciality is the chupacabra taco, a combination of pork, beef and a 'secret ingredient'.

• El Hijo del Cuervo

  phone: +52 55 5658 7824
  address: Jardin Centenario 17
  Locals pack El Hijo del Cuervo which plays a mixture of rock and protest music.

• Teatro Bar El Vicio

  phone: +52 55 5659 1139, +52 55 6553 4932
  address: Madrid 13
  Cabaret venue that showcases music, theatre and cabaret shows. Shows are in Spanish.

There are not many hotels and hostels in Coyoacán, but do try the following:

• Coyote Flaco Backpackers

  phone: +52 55 5554 2203
  address: Av México 112
  Hostel that has 40 rooms all with private bathrooms. Great place to meet fellow travelers, and the staff and helpful and friendly.

• Suites Coyoacán

  phone: +52 55 5534 8353
  address: Av Coyoacan 1909
  Standard hotel that offers comfortable sized rooms at an affordable price. The location is the big drawcard though, less than a block from the Coyoacan subway station, which is about a half hour from downtown. It is also within walking distance (30 min) to two parks that have really great restaurants all around.

For those with unlocked phones, travelers can purchase a pre-paid SIM card at Sanborns (Parque Centenario 5) or at another branch of in the Centro Coyoacán shopping center.

A (taxi stand) is located on the corner of Caballocalco and Higuera, near the Plaza Hidalgo.