Montreal/Plateau

The Plateau is adjacent to the downtown core, so there are many ways to access it. Avenue du Parc, boulevard Saint-Laurent, rue Saint-Denis, and rue Papineau run north/south through the Plateau and are paralleled by dozens of side streets in between. East/west, rue Sherbrooke, avenue des Pins, avenue Rachel, avenue du Mont-Royal, and boulevard Saint-Joseph bisect the Plateau, with Mont-Royal carrying a lot of shops, bars, and restaurants. All of these streets are accessible by car (though Staint-Laurent is one way, going north) and served by many taxi companies.
Each of these streets and a few others are served by bus routes run by the STM. In addition, the Orange line of the Montreal Metro runs underneath rue Berri, adjacent to rue Saint-Denis. Sherbrooke, Mont-Royal, and Laurier Metro stations are also on the Plateau.
Bike routes are few but still useful. There are separated bike lanes on avenue Rachel from Parc Mont-Royal to boulevard Lafontaine and rue Brébeuf from parc Lafontaine to parc Laurier, and there are painted bike lanes along rue Saint-Urbain, rue Milton, rue Prince-Arthur, and rue Saint-Joseph. These lanes are generally not respected by Montreal drivers, so watch out. In addition, several of these lanes are not plowed during the winter, making them all but impassible following heavy snow.

Buildings

The most dominant architectural feature of the Plateau is the endless rows of Montreal duplexes and triplexes that house the majority of the Plateau's population. These buildings date from the early 20th century and, with their distinctive exterior staircases and wrought-iron ornamentation, have come to define the visual landscape of the Plateau.
In addition, there are a few buildings of note scattered around the Plateau. The Warshaw building (boulevard Saint-Laurent and rue Bagg) dates from the 1920s and was the Plateau's first skyscraper. Though it has only seven floors, it is a distinctive feature of the neighbourhood. Farther north, 4020 boulevard Saint-Laurent is recognisable by its impressive refinished neo-Art Deco exterior. Also, there are many large churches from the 19th century and the early 20th century. Most notable of these would be the oriental looking St. Michael the Archangel, located at 5590 rue Saint-Urbain at rue Saint-Vincent ouest.
On the southern end of the Plateau, on the edge of the McGill University ghetto, is the Galleries du Parc, a large 1960s-era urban redevelopment project. The Galleries are comprised of four large buildings, three of them devoted to apartments and the fourth devoted to office space. In addition, a former hotel, now a residence of McGill University, and an underground shopping complex are part of the Galleries project. The underground mall, though small, contains a variety of shops and services including the Parc Cinema, showing art-house and second-run films.

Parks

The Plateau is bordered on two sides by large parks. To the west is Parc du Mont-Royal, designed by Frederic Law Olmstead in the 1880s, and a dominant feature of the Montreal landscape. The park is well used for recreation, biking, hiking, cross-country skiing in the winter, as well as the weekly Tam Tams celebration during the summer months. Parc du Mont-Royal is safe and accessible by the adjacent Parc Jeanne-Mance, listed below, and by Ave du Parc. To the east is Parc Lafontaine, also listed below.

• Parc Jeanne-Mance

  address: between ave du Parc, ave du Mont-Royal, ave de l'Esplanade, and ave des Pins
  Located in the western part of the Plateau, adjacent to Parc du Mont-Royal. At the corner of Mont-Royal and Parc is an art deco fountain dedicated in honour of Louis Rubenstein, the father of Canadian figure skating.

• Parc Lafontaine

  address: between ave du Parc Lafontaine, rue Rachel, ave Papineau, and rue Sherbrooke
  Located in the eastern part of the Plateau, the park is well-manicured and includes an artificial lake, bike paths, sporting facilities, and an outdoor amphitheater. Very popular during summer.

• Carré Saint-Louis

  address: between ave Laval, rue Saint-Denis, and the two sides of rue du Square Saint-Louis
  A smaller park, Carré Saint-Louis is at the east end of the Prince Arthur pedestrian mall, next to rue Saint-Denis. Though a fraction of the size of either Parc LaFontaine or Parc du Mont-Royal, it is a popular and scenic local destination. Two fountains, bike paths, and easy access to a number of restaurants and shops provide a comforting background and a relaxing setting. On a side note, many of the gags on the television show Just For Laughs are performed in this park. The park is also notable for the colourful Victorian rowhouses that surround it.

• Mount Royal Park

  phone: +1 514-843-8240
  address: 1260 Chemin Remembrance
  Has an artificial lake, many paths through the wood, and the best view on the city of Montreal.

Art

There are also examples of impressive urban tableaux and graffiti art found throughout the Plateau. The side streets to the east of boulevard Saint-Laurent are well known for this, particularly avenue Duluth.

• Place Roy

  address: rue Roy est and rue Saint-André
  Public art piece in a small square featuring a stone map of the world and several scattered bronze chairs.

The Plateau area is a great place to walk around, shop, go to restos and clubs, or just hang out. There is always something interesting happening here, a very cool ambiance. It borders Mile End and Latin Quarter, both very cool areas themselves. Just get off the orange line at Mont-Royal or Sherbrooke and start walking up St. Denis or St. Laurent.

• Maison de la culture du Plateau-Mont-Royal

  phone: +1 514-872-2266
  address: 465 ave du Mont-Royal est
  Exhibits local artists.

• Théâtre de Verdure

  phone: +1 514-872-4041
  address: in Parc Lafontaine near rue Duluth and ave du Parc-Lafontaine
  3000-seat outdoor theater open for a summer program of dance, music, movies, and theater. Plan to line up early for the popular symphonies in the park series or just join the crowd of picnickers on the grass around the lake.

Festivals

• Main MadnessTwo weekends each summer St-Laurent boulevard is closed to cars for the Main Madness street fair. More an overgrown sidewalk sale than fair, restaurants, and shops set up in the middle of the street.

Though shops are dotted throughout the neighborhood, there are a few principal commercial avenues. Boulevard St-Laurent, known as "The Main" or "La Main", is the largest and most famous, with a cornucopia of restaurants, shops, bars, and other services. Below Ave des Pins, St. Laurent tends to be more upscale, particularly at the junction of Ave Prince Arthur. Further north on St. Laurent there are a variety of clothing stores, hearkening back to the street's history as the center of Montreal's garment district.
As for price, the Plateau has experienced a long stretch of gentrification, which has pushed prices upward in many locations. However, there are still bargains to be found in main places, particularly for vinyl records, books, and second-hand clothing.

Clothing

Despite on-going gentrification, St-Laurent near Rachel and Mont-Royal west of St-Denis, still have a number of vintage and second-hand frips where you can pick up 1950s prom dresses and '70s T-shirts. Local designers have claimed several spots on St-Laurent including Blank.

• Quartier Mode

  phone: +1 514-843-5555
  address: 4276 boul Saint-Laurent
  Here you can find over 32 locally made independent Montreal designers; clothing for women, well made dresses, pretty accessories and a view into Montreal's fashion community. The owner is a passionate local designer who loves making people happy and finding the right piece for her customers.

• Lustre

  phone: +1 514-288-7661
  address: 4068 boul Saint-Laurent
  A local designer boutique

• Friperie

  phone: +1 514-842-3893
  address: 3976 boul Saint-Laurent
  Vintage.

Music

• Beatnick

  phone: +1 514-842-0664
  address: 3770 rue St-Denis
  Used records and CDs.

• Primitive

  phone: +1 514-845-6017
  address: 3828 rue St-Denis

• Paul's Boutique

  phone: +1 514-284-7773
  address: 112 ave du Mont-Royal est
  Used CDs, records, and vintage T-shirts.

Coffee

• Vélo Québec

  address: 1251 rue Rachel est
  Good coffee and espresso, plus maps, bicycle kit and free air. Outside seating and plenty of free bicycle parking.

Ice cream

• Cremerie Meu Meu

  phone: +1 514-288-5889
  address: 4458 rue Saint-Denis
  Ice cream and gelato is sold in this little shop.

• Les Givres

  phone: +1 514-373-7558
  address: 3807 rue Saint-Denis
  This artisanal ice cream shop sells gourmet organic products including tasty cakes. The sorbets like the handpicked rhubarbar or the "bleuets" are as good as the cofé or the chocolate choices.

• Ripples

  phone: +1 514-842-1697
  address: 3880 Boul Saint-Laurent
  The little shop serves homemade ice cream.

Budget

• Aux Vivres

  phone: +1 514-842-3479
  address: 4631 boul Saint-Laurent
  The restaurant serves fresh vegan cuisine. There are many sandwich choices including the classic coconut grilled BLT or salads. Many things can be taken for the go. In the backyard there is a small outside terrasse.

• La Banquise

  phone: +1 514-525-2415
  address: 994 rue Rachel est
  La Banquise consistently tops locals' lists for best poutine in town (and not just because it's open for post-bar-hopping munch fests when judgment is slightly impaired). Maybe it's because they've been at it since 1968. The clientele is hip and clubworn, the walls and tables are brightly coloured, and the staff is friendly. 25 varieties of poutine make up most of the menu, but if you insist there are hamburgers and other fast-food fare, as well as a bar.

• La Binerie

  phone: +1 514-285-9078
  address: 367 ave du Mont-Royal est
  A small unpretentious eatery that became a legend. It features traditional meals for under $10, especially fèves aux lard (beans cooked overnight with bacon).

• Frite Alors!

  phone: +1 514-843-2490
  address: 433 rue Rachel est
  Pommes frites with a choice of a half-dozen toppings. Poutine. Burgers. Salads. Part of a small local chain.

• Juliette et Chocolat

  phone: +1 514-510-5651
  address: 377 ave Laurier ouest
  A chocoholic's paradise! The thick menu at this favorite dessert restaurant, chocolaterie and creperie consists of chocolate in all of its forms, from cakes to thick "grandma's style" hot chocolates to salad dressing! Busy on Saturday nights, a great date or dessert spot. Everything here is sinful.

• Maamm Bolduc!

  phone: +1 5146527-3884
  address: 4351 ave de Lorimier
  Quebecois food include what just may be the best poutine in town, served in a dozen different varieties ranging from traditional to bourguignonne (with mince, mushrooms, and red wine sauce). The portions are huge and the misnamed $7.50 petit is plenty for most ordinary people.

• Santropol

  phone: +1 514-842-3110
  address: 3990 rue Saint-Urbain
  This favorite Montreal spot serves a great selection of creative, gigantic sandwiches, soups, coffees, teas, and breads to appeal to any veggie palate. With a funky decor, a great outdoor garden in the back in the summer, bookshelves stocked with used books, and a food service for the needy, this casual restaurant is a veritable Montreal institution. Casual. Popular among students.

• Schwartz's

  phone: +1 514-842-4813
  address: 3895 boul Saint-Laurent
  Famous delicatessen for smoked meat, served up in huge, juicy, peppery slabs. Cash only. No reservations. Expect to wait for a table at most times, but the queue moves fast. Smoked meat sandwich $6.22 (with tax). A good tip: locals get their sandwiches at the take-away counter to the left of the restaurant entrance. It moves a lot faster, it's a bit cheaper - and you get the exact same sandwich!

• Soupesoup

  phone: +1 514-380-0880
  address: 80 ave Duluth est
  Best soup and sandwich in town. Not cheap, but great quality and definitely original.

Mid-range

• Au Pied de Cochon

  phone: +1 514-281-1114
  address: 536 ave Duluth est
  Modern restaurant with casual ambiance. Huge meals. The place to go for lamb and original Quebec cuisine for a reasonable price; the poutine with foie gras is particularly (in)famous. Advance reservations strongly recommended.

• Beautys Luncheonette

  phone: +1 514-849-8883
  address: 93 Mont-Royal West
  A classic for it's American brunch open since 1942, features a huge line-up. Regular people use to eat salmon bagels. The owner Hymne will seat you. While waiting you'll find postcards and reviews from all over the world including from Albert Prince of Monaco.

• Byblos

  phone: +1 514-523-9396
  address: 1499 ave Laurier est
  One of the best unknown restaurants in Montreal. Prices are amazingly reasonable for the food quality. Iranian food.

• Chez Doval

  phone: +1 514-843-3390
  address: 150 rue Marie-Anne est
  Portuguese grill.

• Chu Chai

  phone: +1 514-843-4194
  address: 4088 rue Saint-Denis
  A treat for vegetarians, vegans, and those who love them. Chu Chai specializes in Thai cuisine made with soy or vegetable protein to simulate meat. The roast "duck" is delicious, and the tom yum gai (lemongrass soup with "chicken") warms the heart. A bistro and takeout counter next door called "Chuch" has the same dishes in a more casual setting and is "bring your own wine".

• Eduardos

  phone: +1 514-843-3330
  address: 404 ave Duluth est
  Good Italian restaurant, bring your wine!

• Khyber Pass

  phone: +1 514-844-7131
  address: 506 ave Duluth est
  Afghan. Bring your own wine.

• L'Avenue

  phone: +1 514-523-8780
  address: 922 ave du Mont-Royal est
  Famous for their eggs Benedict.

• Le Poisson Rouge

  phone: +1 514-522-4876
  address: 1201 rue Rachel est
  A seafood BYOB with a wonderful prix fixe. The maitre d' is friendly and knows everything about each fish and its preparation.

• Le Majestique

  address: 4105 Boul St-Laurent
  Highly rated kitsch-nautical-themed retro diner serving oysters and other tapas-style eats and offerings from a full bar, open late.

Splurge

• La Chronique

  phone: +1 514-271-3095
  address: 104 ave Laurier ouest
  Has a casual feel until you see the astonishing creations of master chef Marc de Canck of Belgium. The table d'hôte with wines is perfect in just about every way, but don't get it if you have to ask what it costs.

• L'Express

  phone: +1 514-845-5333
  address: 3927 rue St-Denis
  A real French bistro with a zinc bar. Tartare, moules, quiche, rilettes. A splurge, but worth it.

The Plateau is full of watering holes and the best thing to do is just wander and discover for yourself. Starting west and moving east, Bar des Pins (formerly Pines Tavern and featured in Mordechai Richler novels) is famous with the McGill set for Tuesday night beer pong. On southeast corner of Prince Arthur and St-Laurent is Vol de Nuit, a good place to start the night, especially in warmer weather when the terrace is open. Boulevard St-Laurent from Prince Arthur to Mount-Royal has a good mix of bars and clubs, from classy to downright sketchy. Korova (named after the bar in "A Clockwork Orange") is up a flight of stairs, has great music, and is popular with the hippest kids around. Nearby, also on St-Laurent below Duluth, is Frappe, a bar and pool hall, and Jupiter Room. Further north, on the corner of Clarke (one west of St-Laurent) and Laurier Ave. is Dieu de Ciel, a brasserie that brews its own spectacular beer.

• Bily Kun

  phone: +1 514-845-5392
  address: 354 ave du Mont-Royal est
  Bily Kun — the name is Czech, meaning "White Horse" — is an institution in Montreal's Plateau district. Dim lighting, candles, and a huge bar give an intimate atmosphere, but Bily Kun gets hopping after 10PM with Montreal's hippest Francophones practically every night. Some of the area's top DJs spin experimental or loungey techno, but there's really no dance floor to speak of. Bar staff is kooky and nice, even if no one can quite explain the ostrich heads lining the walls. Upstairs O Patro Vys from the same owners frequently hosts small shows and events.

• Quai des Brumes

  phone: +1 514-499-0467
  address: 4481 rue Saint-Denis
  Very small and comfy watering hole in the heart of St. Denis near Parc du Mont-Royal. Velvet drapes, wood finish, and a chrome bar. Sometimes has live entertainment, which becomes a very intimate experience due to the small size.

• Casa Del Popolo/La Sala Rossa

  phone: +1 514-284-3804
  address: 4873 boul Saint-Laurent
  Established in September 2000, Casa Del Popolo is Montréal's only family-run neighborhood vegetarian hot-spot! Part fair-trade café, part music venue, part bar, part foosball hall. The Casa and its sister venue, La Sala Rossa, frequently host touring indie artists. Shows are cheap (sometimes free!). Try the goat cheese sandwich!

• Le Réservoir

  phone: +1 514-849-7779
  address: 9 ave Duluth est
  Brewpub. Very good snacks and tapas in a beautiful decor, there's a second floor upstairs.

• Bifteck

  phone: +1 514-844-6211
  address: 3702 boul Saint-Laurent
  Some of the cheapest beer in town, served with some of the saltiest popcorn in all of Creation, consumed by bohemians and students from near and far (and the occasional honest-to-God rock star). Great place to start or end a St-Laurent pub crawl: to the south, you'll find trendy, relatively expensive places; to the north, some of the best dive bars anywhere. Or you can just stay and get tanked.

• Go Go Lounge

  phone: +1 514-286-0882
  address: 3682 boul Saint-Laurent
  It's on the trendier part of St-Laurent, it looks trendy outwardly, the martini menu is certainly hip and happenin', but there's something missing: attitude. Anyone is made to feel welcome here and if there's a velvet rope and a doorman, it's only because the place really is full.

• Else's

  phone: +1 514-286-6689
  address: 156 rue Roy est
  Small, cozy space with a great selection of draft beers and fine whiskeys. It's a restaurant, but you're better off eating elsewhere and just picking at the mandatory nosh (bowl of olives, etc.)

• Dieu du Ciel

  phone: +1 514-490-9555
  address: 29 ave Laurier ouest
  One of the best brew pubs in Montreal, it has a nice atmosphere for discussions between friends.

• Le Salon Daomé

  address: 141 ave du Mont-Royal est
  Little hard to find, small door leads to the nightclub upstairs. Tip: find the door man!!

Budget

• Auberge Chez Jean

  phone: +1 514-843-8279
  address: 4136 ave Henri Julien
  Backpackers hotel with free breakfast and free wifi.

• Le Bleu Balcon

  phone: +1 514-982-0030
  address: 4420 rue Saint-Denis
  Small, three room, bed and breakfast in a typical Plateau apartment building. Shared bathrooms.

• Hotel Stay Mont-Royal

  phone: +1 514-661-0873
  address: 438 ave du Mont-Royal est
  European-style with shared bathrooms, free Wi-Fi.

Mid-range

• Anne ma soeur Anne

  phone: +1 514-281-3187
  address: 4119 rue Saint-Denis
  Boutique studio-hotel.

• A la Bonne Heure

  phone: +1 514-529-0179
  address: 4425 rue Saint-Hubert
  Charming new bed and breakfast just above Parc Lafontaine, two blocks from Mont-Royal shopping, restaurants, nightlife. Only four rooms, so book ahead.

• Chez Francois Bed and Breakfast

  phone: +1 514-239-4638
  address: 4031 ave Papineau
  Located in the lower Plateau area, close to Duluth restaurants, Saint-Laurent nightlife and more. Five rooms in a typical Montreal walk up, lovingly maintained by Francois, an accommodating host who has excellent suggestions for tourists, as well as preparing wonderful complimentary breakfasts. Free parking available.

• The Hôtel de l'Institut

  phone: +1 514-282-5120
  address: 3535 rue Saint-Denis
  Located between the Latin Quarter and Plateau Mont-Royal, facing one of Montréal’s most charming green spaces, Square Saint-Louis. Free breakfast.

Splurge

• Auberge de la Fontaine

  phone: +1 514-597-0166
  address: 1301 rue Rachel est
  Fun bed and breakfast with 25 rooms across the street from Parc Lafontaine.