New Orleans/French Quarter
Understand
The French Quarter or "Vieux Carré" ("old square" in French) stretches along the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue (13 blocks long) and back from the Mississippi to Rampart Street (6 blocks wide).
"The Quarter" is compact. One can spend an enjoyable vacation here without leaving it for several days. If the French Quarter is your headquarters, consider leaving your car behind and not bothering to rent one if your health permits a few blocks walk. Parking is difficult, expensive, or both. Occasional trips to other parts of town can be made by streetcar or cab. The neighborhood is pedestrian friendly. Take care walking at night, particularly on dark or deserted streets. If you've been drinking, a cab is advisable.
The "Upper Quarter" (between Canal Street and Jackson Square) is the area most patronized by visitors, but the "Lower Quarter" (between Jackson Square and Esplanade Avenue) also has shops and restaurants sprinkled amongst the residences.
Get in, get around
Take the streetcar in if you're in Uptown or Mid City. Driving in on Interstate 10, take the Orleans Avenue or Vieux Carré exit. Once you're in the Quarter, it's best seen on foot. If you do drive within the Quarter, expect it to be slow, and watch for the pedestrians and bikes. The Quarter is very doable on a bike, but again be especially alert.
The Quarter is wider (from Canal to Esplanade) than it is deep (from the River to Rampart).
Bourbon and Royal Streets (see below) are the main avenues running through the width of the French Quarter; sections are often closed off to motor vehicles. Parallel Chartres Street is often a better option for pedestrians actually heading somewhere when Royal and Bourbon are jammed with visitors. The heart of the Quarter is Jackson Square, listed below.
See
Bourbon StreetSome 8 blocks of Bourbon from Canal Street down are given over to catering to the hard drinking tourists. If getting drunk with other tourists is the goal of your vacation, this is the place for you. Even otherwise, this notorious strip of tourist traps is worth at least a quick look for its gaudy sleaziness. Bourbon has not only countless bars but also many fine restaurants featuring delicious local cuisine for people who want to experience the local foods.
Royal StreetStrolling Royal Street by day is as essential a New Orleans experience as Bourbon Street by night. 1 block away in distance, a world in attitude. There are art galleries, upscale antique stores, landmark hotels and interesting specialty shops. Lots of temptations for those with money, but is also fun window shopping for those not spending a dime.
Jackson SquareThe old town square, often live music is going on here, as well as street corner painters and tarot readers. Around the square are:
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phone: +1 504 568-6968address: 701 Chartres StColonial city hall, now a museum; Louisiana Purchase agreements transferring the city from France to the USA were signed here.
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phone: +1 504 568-6968address: 751 Chartres StColonial church offices, now another museum, including a New Orleans Mardi Gras display.
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phone: +1 504 525-9585address: 615 Pere Antoine AlleyA symbol of New Orleans, this is the oldest Roman Catholic Cathedral in the United States and has a giant statue of the Virgin Mary with her arms extended gracing the middle of the courtyard.
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Pontalba Buildings4-story brick apartment buildings have specialty shops, restaurants, and a tourist information office on the ground floors.
Moon WalkA brick walking path along the Mississippi River across Decatur Street from Jackson Square. The curious name comes from its dedication to former New Orleans mayor Moon Landrieu.
Chartres StreetParallels Bourbon and Royal Streets, one block closer to the river than Royal. While less famous with visitors, those who enjoy historic architecture will find the city's greatest concentration of preserved colonial era buildings along Chartres, along with early 19th century town-houses. Plus it passes through Jackson Square. A pleasant walk with local shops, cafes, restaurants, and bars scattered along the street.
Lower Decatur StreetRight around the corner from the historic US Mint, and the French Market. A French Quarter neighborhood with shops, dining, and entertainment. Late at night the bars really hop with local color.
New Orleans Jazz Park Visitor's Center & Headquarters
Jean Lafitte National Park and Preserve
Historic New Orleans Collection
Old Ursuline Convent
Cigar Factory New Orleans & Museum
House museums
Some elegant old homes are now museums:-
phone: +1 504 568-6968address: 523 St Ann St
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phone: +1 504 523-7257address: 1113 Chartres St
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phone: +1 504 525-5661address: 820 St Louis St1830s mansion.
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phone: +1 504 525-5661address: 1132 Royal StHome of famous local 19th-century architect.
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phone: +1 504 568-6968address: 632 Dumaine St18th-century Creole home.
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address: 718 Toulouse St
Do
Carriage ridesMule-drawn carriages have driven tourists around the Quarter since the gasoline rationing of the 1940s. Carriage drivers are licensed tour guides and give tourists a full blown tour consisting of a mix of history, architecture, restaurants & stories, though some drivers have been known to spin stories that are more colorful than factual. Available to tourists is a 30-minute tour of the French Quarter, hour tour of the St. Louis No.1 Cemetery/French Quarter combo, hour and one half or two hour Garden District tour, or any combination thereof. Carriage drivers also do bar-hopping tours, shopping by carriage, Marigny tours & ghost tours. There are several options from group rates 6-8 people to private tours for 1-4 people. Things have changed quite a bit in the carriage industry in the past 7 years! Drivers are more customer service oriented & courteous.
Street entertainersPerforming for tips from tourists, varying greatly in talent. The still mime-ers are a sight to see, they stand still alone or with a partner and when you give them a tip they will move very slowly in tandem, like a robot. There are excellent musicians who enjoy keeping up their chops out of doors. There are also hacks with little talent other than scamming money. Beware of the Got-yo-shoes-ers; these are scammers who go up to tourists saying "I bet you I know whe' you got yo' shoes!". If they succeed in getting the tourist to take the bet, the answer is "You got yo' shoes on yo' feet!" They usually have a large and threatening-looking friend or someone who looks like they just smoked too much crack nearby to make sure bets are paid. You will almost always encounter one of these burnt out hustlers, when they do just politely reply: "They are on my feet" and they will know the jig is up.
Walking toursPlentiful but often pricey. Most cost $10-20 per person, but there are a couple of good, free walking tours. Or you can simply walk and see all of the landmarks since most are labeled and you can go in and read about it yourself. Park rangers from the Jean Lafitte National Park (see above) offer a free walking tour of the French Quarter that is very informative. Space is very limited, and spots on the tour are only given out on the day of the tour at 9AM. You should try to show up at least half an hour early to reserve a spot. You'll learn the real history of New Orleans, which is often as colorful as the tall stories.
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address: 1 Canal StThe only aquarium in New Orleans. In the French Quarter. Features an IMAX theatre. 10AM-5PM daily.
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address: 423 Canal StIn the historic Old Customs House Building. The Audubon Institute, which also runs the nearby Aquarium and the Zoo up in the Audubon District, opened the Insectarium in 2008. 10a-5p daily.
Live music
- Bourbon Street. Upper Bourbon has been given over to catering to hard-drinking out-of-towners, and this part of the street has a number of music venues (not named here) whose owners make their money off them, with loud mediocre bands hired cheaply. Nonetheless, despite what some say, it is still possible to find New Orleans jazz on Bourbon Street.
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phone: +1 504 561-0432address: 733 Bourbon StGood house bands in the evenings, and is often a venue for out-of-town and international musicians versed in the New Orleans style.
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Irvin Mayfield's Jazz Playhouse
address: 300 Bourbon St -
Maison Bourbon
phone: +1 504 522-8818address: 641 Bourbon StSometimes has decent bands (though as often doesn't), as many good local Dixieland players lacking a better gig for the moment often wind up here. As the doors are open to the street, you can listen a bit from outside, judge for yourself whether they have a band you'd enjoy, and walk on by or go on in as appropriate.
Buy
- Art or high-end antiques on Royal Street.
- Tacky t-shirts and souvenirs on Bourbon Street.
- There are several good used book stores on Chartres, Royal, Pirates' Alley, and elsewhere in the Quarter.
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phone: +1 504 581-5820address: 1025 Decatur StIf you're looking for Christmas decorations, this is the place. They have thousands of ornaments including New Orleans and Mardi Gras themed.
Eat
Budget
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phone: +1 504 522-5973address: 724 Iberville StNo ambiance, but good, oysters and other southern delights. Be ready to wait in line. Great food, Great price. 1/2 dozen chargrilled oysters for $9.99 simply can't be beat, especially since Louisiana oysters are far superior in size to those from anyplace else. For an entertaining and social experience, sit at the bar, where you can talk to the oyster shuckers about the celebrities and pro athletes who they have recently seen in the restaurant.
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phone: +1 504 566-0077address: 1141 Decatur St
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phone: +1 504 522-1230address: 1212 Royal StAfrican food. Good lunch specials. Many vegetarian and vegan options.
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phone: +1 504 524-3689address: 1241 Decatur StSandwiches, salads, omelets, quiches. Wireless internet access.
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Central Grocery
phone: +1 504 523-1620address: 923 Decatur StOld Italian-American grocery sandwich shop, famous for their enormous muffuletta sandwiches originated by this family in 1910. One is enough to feed four hungry people! Order 1/2 to start for 2 people! -
phone: +1 504 598-1010address: 900 Bourbon StGood eggs, burgers, and such. Heavily (though not exclusively) gay clientele. They cook your burger under a hubcap!
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phone: +1 504 525-9053address: 1109 Decatur StYou can get good Cajun food at a really good price here. Locals favorite. Best fried chicken in the city! Patrons must be 21 or older to enter due to the presence of video poker machines.
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phone: +1 504 267-4406address: 301 N Peters St
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Felix's Restaurant & Oyster Bar
phone: +1 504 522-4440address: 739 Iberville StThe Acme's traditional competition and usually a shorter wait, too. A very good oyster bar with other traditional cajun fare. -
Jimani
phone: +1 504 524-0493address: 141 Chartres StWhen you want a great roast beef sandwich at 2 in the morning. -
phone: +1 504 524-8129address: 511 St Louis StLunch counter with some eat-in tables; one of the largest po-boy menus around. Excellent breakfast biscuit sandwich!
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phone: +1 504 522-6746address: 1212 Royal StItalian and pizza.
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phone: +1 504 523-0120address: 838 Esplanade AveAwesome, huge burgers and loaded baked potatoes. Potent drinks, parrot-head juke box. Lil slice of paradise.
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phone: +1 504 522-1125address: 727 St Peter StLimited but high quality grill menu, including 14 types of burgers.
Breakfast & snacks
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phone: +1 504 525-4544address: 800 Decatur StServes coffee and beignets, across Decatur from Jackson Square. A local landmark since the 19th century.
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phone: +1 504 962-5603address: 505 Decatur StThe upper French Quarter branch of a small local chain. Great iced coffee drinks for hot days.
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phone: +1 504 581-6996address: 941 Royal StThe lower French Quarter branch of a small local chain. Great iced coffee drinks for hot days.
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phone: +1 504 524-4663address: 617 Ursulines AveFrench pastries and light breakfasts & lunch.
Mid-range
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phone: +1 504 525-4455address: 430 Dauphine StIncredible French/Euro/NOLA food by esteemed chef, Susan Spicer. Fabulous wine selections. Many locals' favorite. Must RSVP.
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French Market Restaurant and Bar
phone: +1 504 525-7879address: 1001 Decatur StServes boiled crawfish and other down-home delicacies. Happy hour M-F 3PM-5PM with raw oysters $.50 each. Has downstairs restaurant and balcony seating upstairs. -
phone: +1 504 525-9752address: 81 French Market PlA local favorite for Mexican. Breakfast available on the weekends.
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phone: +1 504 301-3347address: 307 Exchange PlSmall restaurant tucked away on a side street serving creative dishes. Opened in 2009 and quickly became a favorite with local foodies. A few years later it's certainly been "discovered"; try to go there sometime other than the busiest days and not during the busiest dinner hours to avoid long waits for a table.
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phone: +1 504 525-1486address: 630 St Peter StAn institution for gumbos and similar traditional Louisiana dishes.
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phone: +1 504 569-0198address: 430 Barracks StGood Northern Italian cuisine in a city where Southern Italian is dominant. Small place; either make reservations or try to catch them off peak hours.
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phone: +1 504 522-9500address: 95 French Market PlUpscale pizzeria in the French Market.
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phone: +1 504 523-2078address: 201 Royal St
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phone: +1 504 523-0377address: 309 Bourbon StA casual spin-off of Arnaud's where you can try their famous Caesar salad dressing and the eponymous remoulade without wearing a jacket and tie. Same shrimp remoulade and gumbo as the main restaurant for a lower price.
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phone: +1 504 587-0093address: 547 St Ann StGood casual food. Some visitors may remember them on Decatur Street years ago; here at their new location on Jackson Square they added a soda fountain.
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address: 625 ChartresOpened in 2010; quality food and drink in a beautiful old Spanish Colonial era building.
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phone: +1 504 525-8676address: 823 Decatur StPronounced "two jacks"; despite the weird spelling, it's been here since 1856 so they must be doing something right. The locals swear by it.
Splurge
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phone: +1 504 581-4422address: 713 St Louis StAntoine's lays claim to being the oldest same family owned restaurant in the country. Opening in 1840, this French Creole restaurant is where Oysters Rockefeller was invented in the 1890s -- and the only restaurant where the original authentic Oysters Rockefeller can be eaten, as the recipe is a closely guarded secret. Your waiter is your guide here; treat them well and ask their recommendations. Before dining, ask your server for a tour of the historic restaurant. There are more than 15 dining rooms, all of which reek of tradition and are steeped in history. Make sure to take a peek down the vast and cavernous wine cellar, which can take the breath away from a true wine lover. Antoine's has opened a beautiful new bar. Step off of St. Louis and step into history.
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phone: +1 504 523-5433address: 813 Bienville StAnother of the great old French Quarter classics.
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phone: +1 504 525-9711address: 417 Royal StOne of the famous local traditions; fine Creole cuisine, known for their gourmet breakfasts. Ask to sit in the courtyard, on the balcony, or in one of the upstairs rooms. Be sure to try the Bananas Foster, which was invented here. Great for upscale New Orleans breakfast.
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phone: +1 504 522-7261address: 613 Royal StA place for daily brunch (with a live jazz combo) and post-night out hangover cures; beautiful courtyard.
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phone: +1 504 525-2021address: 209 Bourbon StClassic Creole on Bourbon Street. Despite being in the tourist strip of Bourbon Street, locals do eat here. For the true experience, wait in line for the downstairs dining room (reservations can be made for the upstairs room, but locals don't eat there), and refuse the menu when you're seated. Let your waiter know your tastes and let him feed you.
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phone: +1 504 524-7394address: 416 Chartres StChef Paul Prudhomme's place; this is the restaurant that taught New Orleans and the world not to sneer at the Cajun food of rural Southwest Louisiana. Not a major dress code kind of place. Reservations far in advance are essential.
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phone: +1 504 522-6652address: 534 St Louis StVery good, run by chef Emeril Lagasse, not quite as pricey as his namesake restaurant in the Central Business District, and not as severe a dress code.
Drink
The French Quarter has a wide variety of bars for all sorts of tastes.
The legal drinking age is 21, sometimes though not always strictly enforced. If you are over 18 but under 21, you generally won't have much problem in New Orleans. Just play your cards right, act like an adult, drink responsibly and you'll have a good time. Don't argue with bartenders, liquor store owners or police officers unless you want to spend the night in OPP (Orleans Parish Prison) -- not pleasant. Rule of thumb for anyone wanting to party in Louisiana, regardless of age, don't drink and drive -- those staying in the Quarter will find bars within an easy walk, and others can take a cab.
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Aunt Tiki's
address: 1207 DecaturPunk version of a tiki bar on Lower Decatur -
phone: +1 504 586-0972address: 830 Conti StHigh-end cocktails with a dress code.
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phone: +1 504 522-8397address: 901 Bourbon StClaims to be the USA's oldest gay bar ("in exile" since the original Lafitte's (see below) went straight back in the Eisenhower Administration). Everyone welcome.
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Carousel Bar
address: 214 RoyalRenowned for generations for the slowly rotating "Carousel" section; also has non-rotating seating. -
phone: +1 504 522-0571address: 527 Decatur StMicrobrewery, also serves food.
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address: 734 Toulouse StTwo dark gothic bars (having split up some ten years ago) open at midnight. The "Original Dungeon" has a bit more cooler atmosphere, but fewer patrons, since it's a little harder to find--down an alley next to "Front of the Dungeon." The Front of the Dungeon's bathroom is a hoot, hidden behind a secret door in the bookcases, and with a toilet so bad as to be borderline unapproachable.
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phone: +1 504 561-0432address: 733 Bourbon StBest known as a trad jazz venue, but also has a bar with good draft German beer even when there isn't live music.
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Johnny White's Pub and Grill and Hole in the Wall
phone: +1 504 524-4909address: 718-720 Bourbon StDown home bar. This location has a restaurant upstairs in addition to the bar. Just around the corner on St Peter is Johnny White's Bar—which is a bar only. -
phone: +1 504 286-5862address: 331 Decatur St
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phone: +1 504 593-9761address: 941 Bourbon StPiano bar towards the end of the touristy part of Bourbon Street, lit entirely by candlelight. Supposedly once the in-town headquarters of pirate & smuggler Jean Lafitte, many colorful stories are told about this location. They pour great Hurricanes.
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Le Roundup
phone: +1 504 561-8340address: 819 St Louis StThe ultimate dive bar, home to transsexuals, hookers, transsexual hookers, cowboys, and Quarter eccentrics. -
phone: +1 504 525-5169address: 1107 Decatur StA great Irish/Quarterpunk bar, long a favorite of bohemian locals.
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Molly's On Toulouse
phone: +1 504 568-1915address: 732 Toulouse StA local Irish pub with a pool table & the best juke box in the French Quarter. Irish Car Bombs are $5.50! Great selection of Irish Whiskeys. -
phone: +1 504 524-9752address: 500 Chartres StThe place to go if you like the thought of good drinks in a more than 200-year-old building whose owners are proud that the interior hasn't been repainted since World War I, with classical music playing over the sound system. Napoleon never made it here, as he died before the local plan to rescue him from exile and start his empire afresh in Louisiana could be carried out. Napoleon House also serves good sandwiches and a limited food menu, with service at a speed somewhere between leisurely and glacial-- don't stop here if you're in a hurry to be somewhere else.
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phone: +1 504 593-9491address: 800 Bourbon StLoud hip gay disco.
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phone: +1 504 529-2107address: 801 Bourbon StNew Orleans' largest gay nightclub since 1974.
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phone: +1 504 525-4823address: 718 St Peter StFamous for strong Hurricanes, Mint Juleps, TNTs, Purple People Eaters; popular tourist hangout for a reason. Has been trendy for generations. Has an impressive fire/water fountain and patio.
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phone: +1 504 523-1927address: 600 Bourbon StHome of the Hand Grenade, "New Orleans's Most Powerful Drink", is a staple of Bourbon Street decadence. Definitely a must-try.
Sleep
Places within the French Quarter or just outside of it on Canal Street are the most centrally located, and also cost more than rooms in other parts of town. Those wishing a fuller immersion in the city may wish to go ahead and pay extra for a location from which they can find many days of things to do with no need of a car or transit.
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phone: +1 504 561-5881address: 919 Royal StEnjoy and relax in one of the rooms and suites overlooking the tropical courtyard. Is also one of the oldest hotels in the French Quarter.
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phone: +1 504 962-0500address: 739 Canal St
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phone: +1 504 529-2345address: 320 Decatur StLovely courtyard, pool and balconies
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phone: +1 504 523-2222address: 717 Orleans StBuilt in 1817 in the heart of the French Quarter.
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phone: +1 504 569-0600address: 131 Decatur StThis 80-year-old inn offers a complimentary continental breakfast in its elegant lobby.
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phone: +1 504 523-1515address: 915 Royal St
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phone: +1 504 586-1800address: 415 Dauphine StAn unforgettable hotel in the heart of the French Quarter. Its historic townhouse walls and a palm-filled courtyard surround you with luxury in a bed-and-breakfast atmosphere.
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phone: +1 504 561-5621address: 501 Decatur StGreat location with reasonable rates, it's known for its courtyard atmosphere.
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phone: +1 504 523-2400address: 910 Iberville StCaters to business, leisure, family, and is also gay/lesbian friendly. Spacious suites with huge bed, kitchen, large bathroom, living room with fold out, and 2 TVs. Valet parking, free bell-hop, lots of amenities, and free breakfast. They also feature fantastic massages at their spa.
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phone: +1 504 524-7611address: 541 Bourbon StA beautiful historic hotel located on the site of the old French Opera House. Notable for its balconies overlooking Bourbon and Toulouse Streets and a beautiful courtyard with pool.
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phone: +1 504 581-1303address: 301 Dauphine StAn historic hotel occupying what were four 19th-century townhomes.
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phone: +1 504 581-2678address: 1003 Bourbon StA boutique hotel in the residential area of Bourbon Street. Visitors will enjoy the sights and sounds of Bourbon Street as well as a retreat into their own personal French Quarter home.
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address: 214 Royal StIn an elegant early-20th century sky-scraper (the only one within the confines of the Quarter itself, just constructed just before large new constructions were prohibited here) has long been one of the top upscale Quarter hotels. The hotel includes a rooftop heated pool with views of the skyline and an award-winning restaurant, the Hunt Room Grill.
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phone: +1 504 529-5333address: 621 St Louis StThe Omni Royal Orleans has been a recipient of the AAA four-diamond award for the past 27 years.
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phone: +1 504 529-7269address: 717 Barracks StEvery room features a queen-sized bed, private bath and fireplace, and private entrance to the courtyard.
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phone: +1 504 586-0300address: 300 Bourbon St
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phone: +1 504 581-7300address: 730 Bienville StLuxurious furnishings, with a beautiful courtyard.
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phone: +1 504 524-4401address: 911 Burgundy StEmbodies the architecture and ambiance of the 18th-century French Quarter.
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phone: +1 504 525-8509address: 708 Ursuline Ave13 guest rooms, each with private bath, ceiling fan, air conditioning/heating, cable television and wireless Internet access.
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phone: +1 504 586-8000address: 1001 Toulouse StThis hotel has a beautiful courtyard with a real New Orleans atmosphere; renovated historic homes surround what is now the courtyard with a fountain and pool.
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phone: +1 504 524-3900address: 1006 Royal StOn the finest shopping street in the French Quarter, this hotel has a European feeling complemented by authentic laced iron balconies, high ceilings with fans, and enclosed courtyards with fountains.
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phone: +1 504 524-3333address: 920 N Rampart StWithin walking distance of the hotel, explore the historic, artistic and eclectic charms around you.
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phone: +1 504 525-2300address: 717 Conti StA heated saltwater courtyard pool and breakfast area.
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address: 625 St Anne St.Beautiful historic hotel in the quarter. They have interior rooms (no windows) that are a great bargain to stay in an incredible space.
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phone: +1 504-324-4888address: 727 Rue ToulouseOne of the most historic hotels in the Quarter, everyone from Tennessee Williams to Audobon has spent time there.
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phone: +1 504-587-3700address: 135 St. Charles AveA boutique hotel.
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phone: +1 504 581-1200address: 316 Chartres Street, 70130Boutique hotel.
Hostels
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phone: +1 504 571-9854address: 129 Burgundy StFree wireless internet, 24 hour reception. 14 night maximum stay.
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phone: +1 504 493-0310address: 914 N Rampart StFree wireless internet, free breakfast, 24 hour reception. Dorm rooms only open to students and foreign travelers, and there is a 7 night maximum stay.
Bed and Breakfasts
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phone: +1 504 525-9949address: 730 Dumaine StGay-friendly bed and breakfast in the center of the Quarter.
French Quarter Guest HousesIncludes the Inn on St. Peter, the Inn on St. Ann, the Inn on Urselines. Meticulously restored suites and rooms in different locations in the gay part of the Quarter. Gay-friendly accommodations and crowd.
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phone: +1 504 324-4888address: 727 Toulouse StOne of the most historic hotels in the Quarter, everyone from Tennessee Williams to Audobon has spent time there.
Connect
- Cafes including CC's and Envie (listed above at eat) have free wi-fi for customers
Go next
Just "below" (down river) from the French Quarter is the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood, across Esplanade Avenue, with hip music joints and restaurants. A little further downriver and you are in the Bywater, a funky neighborhood with genuine corner bars, great restaurants and a friendly atmosphere.
Inland or "back" (away from the Mississippi River) from the Quarter is the Tremé neighborhood.