New Orleans/Mid-City and Esplanade Ridge

Mid-City is a portion of the city that is easy to get around in either with or without a car.
The restored Canal Streetcar line starts at the riverfront of the French Quarter (at Esplanade Avenue and the levee), turns on to Canal Street to go through the Central Business District, and continues into the heart of Mid-City. Once at the intersection of Canal Street and Carrollton Avenue in the center of Mid-City, the Canal streetcar branches into two lines. Cars marked "City Park" turn on to Carrollton Avenue, with the line ending at City Park in front of the NOMA Museum, a short walk from the Fairgrounds. Cars marked "Cemeteries" continue to the end of Canal Street at the far edge of Mid-City where a number of the city's old cemeteries are located.

• City ParkThe large park has winding lanes through old trees for walking or driving through, and includes such attractions as an outdoor sculpture garden, a botanical garden. As of 2011, renovations and improvements since Katrina have City Park looking more beautiful than ever. "Storyland", a children's playground based around fairy tale characters, has been a favorite of local children for generations, and has added attractions in recent years. The Carousel Gardens Amusement Park has a beautiful merry-go-round (known to local old timers as "the flying horses" dating back to 1906, as well as an assortment of other amusement park rides including a miniature railway to ride around part of the park. During nights of the Christmas season there is an elaborate celebration with lights, additional rides, and music in the park called "Celebration in the Oaks".

• New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA)Worth a visit for art lovers; the art of this fine museum was fortunately high enough to escape the flood. Highlights from the permanent collection include a fine collection of Fabergé eggs and jewelry, and paintings from France and Latin America. Open until 8:30PM Thursday nights. Louisiana residents get in free after 5PM with ID.

• Degas House Historic Home Courtyard and Inn

  phone: +1 504 821-5009
  address: 2306 Esplanade Ave
  French Impressionist artist Edgar Degas. The only home and studio of the French Impressionist Master, Edgar Degas, open to the public anywhere in the world. Degas lived with relatives in this house on Esplanade Avenue during 1872-1873; it is now a bed & breakfast, gift shop, wedding and special event venue. Tours are available daily. Secured offstreet/motorcoach parking.

• FairgroundsHorse racing venue, and for two weekends of the year serves as the venue for the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival.

• Pitot House Museum and Gardens

  address: 1440 Moss St
  Historic house of a former mayor from the era of the Louisiana Purchase at the start of the 19th century.

Cemeteries

Go to the cemetery? Yes, many visitors do, leaving alive and well with an interesting experience. Due to the high water table, most New Orleans tombs are in above ground crypts. Traditionally, many of the well to do adorned their tombs with marble or bronze decoration and statuary, and many of the city's less affluent joined fraternal organizations which built elaborate group crypts.

• Saint Louis Cemetery #319th-century above ground tombs. Safe to walk around in during the day, this is popular with visitors.

• The Cemeteries is the informal name for a group of separate but adjoining or nearby cemeteries concentrated around the inland end of Canal Street. These include Odd Fellows Rest and Greenwood Cemetery. Some interesting monuments, but cemetery connoisseurs agree your time is best spent a little further on:

• Metairie CemeteryThis cemetery is just outside of Mid-City by most definitions, but is only a short drive from this neighborhood or a 5 minute walk from the end of the "Cemeteries" branch of the Canal streetcar line (Walking directions: from the end of the line, go left along City Park Avenue, past Greenwood Cemetery on the right, and continue under the Interstate overpass; Metairie Cemetery is on the right). Metairie is the city's most elaborate cemetery, with many interesting 19th century grand tombs and monuments.

• Longue Vue House and Gardens

  address: 7 Bamboo Road
  #. Elegant mansion set in lush gardens is pretty and historic. In Western central New Orleans off Metairie Road, a short drive from Metarie Cemetery and Mid-City.

• Mid-City Bayou BoogalooPopular festival one weekend each May featuring free live local music along the banks of Bayou St. John near Orleans Avenue. Lots of local food and crafts vendors too.

Live music

• Banks Street Bar & Grill

  phone: +1 504 486-0258
  address: 4401 Banks St
  Local less well known live music acts, ranging from rock to all types of jazz, often at no cover; if they're good (often they are) put a buck or so in the tip jar.

• Chickie Wah Wah

  address: 2828 Canal Street
  Eclectic schedule of local artists. Music venue in a comfortable bar, easy parking as well as right on the Canal Streetcar line. The kitchen serves a limited menu significantly better than average bar food. Tel 304-4714.

• Rock-n-Bowl3000 S. Carrollton (at Earhart Boulevard note they moved a dozen blocks closer to the river from their old location in Spring 2009). Dance, or drink, or bowl while listening to great live local music. A great place to experience traditional Zydeco music or Cajun music, if you bowl or not. Also Rhythm & Blues acts, swing dancing.

Mid-City restaurants are loved by locals, and the visitor can easily find out why. If the French Quarter and Central Business District seem too overwhelmed by tourists, one can get away to Mid-City and enjoy some of New Orleans best and most distinctive food surrounded by locals.
As mentioned above, visitors flock here during the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and to a lesser extent during Voodoo Experience. At these busy times it's best to either make reservations well in advance, or expect to wait in lines, or plan to eat in another part of town.

Budget

• Betsy's Pancake House

  address: 2542 Canal St
  Pancakes & such for breakfast and lunch.

• Bode's Catfish Shack

  address: 3735 Ulloa Street
  Some of the Gulf Coast's best fried catfish along with good soul food in this clean little place tucked away in an unprepossessing Mid City neighborhood. Lunch and early dinner, closed Sundays. Tel. 304-1471

• Doson Noodle House

  address: 135 N Carrollton Ave
  Vietnamese.
• Fellini's Cafe, 900 N. Carrollton. Artsy cafe with good food.
• Fiesta Latina, 133 N. Carrollton. Mexican & Central American

• Juan's Flying Burrito

  address: 4724 S Carrollton Ave
  Tasty Mexican, good prices. The staff sometimes have Punk Music on the sound system very loud.

• Lazaro's

  address: 4413 Banks St
  Pizza & po-boys.

• Little Tokyo

  address: 310 N Carrollton Ave
  Japanese

• Liuzzas3636 Bienville. New Orleans-style down-home Italian with a Creole touch. No credit cards. Tues-Sun 11a-10p

• Liuzza's By The Track, 1518 N. Lopez (at Ponce de Leon, a block off Esplanade towards the Track). "The other Liuzza's" is also a neighborhood favorite, known for Creole gumbo, seafood, and garlic roast beef po'boys. Reasonably priced lunches, also open for dinner weekdays.
• Mona's Cafe, 3901 Banks. Middle Eastern. Mona's also has restaurants in Marigny and Uptown, but this one has a fair sized Middle Eastern grocery attached as well, in case you need to buy a bag of loose tea leaves, a bucket of hummus, or a hookah.
• Neyow's Creole Cafe 3340 Bienville (at Davis Parkway). New Orleans Creole, lunch & dinner. Closed Weds; dinner only Sun. Tel. 827-5474
• Nonna Mia 3125 Esplanade. Pizza, pastas, and panini. Tel. 949-1717. Lunch & dinner 7 days.

• Parkway Bakery & Tavern

  address: 523 Hagan St
  An authentic neighborhood po-boy shop and bar; a favorite with locals.

• Ruby Slipper

  address: 139 South Cortez Street
  Tel. 309-5531. Breakfast & lunch Weds-Fri, Brunch Sat-Sun.
• Santa Fe 3201 Esplanade. Southwestern. Some people may remember its former location in the Marigny neighborhood.

• Theo's Pizza

  address: 4024 Canal Street
  Popular pizzaria from the Uptown neighborhood opened their Mid-City branch in late 2009. Tel. 302-1133

Snacks

• Angelo Brocato's214 N. Carrollton. Italian ice cream, pastries, and sweets, a century old tradition.

• The Bean Gallery637 N. Carrollton. Coffee, sandwiches, gelato. Wi-Fi. Tel. 324-8176

• Blue Dot Donuts

  address: 4301 Canal Street
  Donuts of both common and unusual types (Key lime?! Maple bacon?!) Come early in the day for best variety. Mon-Sat 6a-6p; Sun 6a-3p. Tel. 218-4866
• Fair Grinds Coffeehouse, 3133 Ponce De Leon (just off Esplanade Avenue), coffee and light eats; neighborhood atmosphere; free Wi-Fi. Tel. 913-9072

Mid-range

• Cafe Degas3127 Esplanade. Very good French.

• Cafe Minh

  address: 4139 Canal Street
  Vietnamese.

• Canal Street Bistro

  address: 3903 Canal St
  Breakfast & Lunch daily except Tues; Dinner Weds-Sat. Eclectic. Tel. 482.1225

• Five Happiness

  address: 3605 S Carrollton Ave
  Local favorite for Chinese.
• Katie's Restaurant & Bar, 3701 Iberville. Neighborhood mainstay before Katrina; reopened March 2010. Creole Italian, fresh seafood and sandwiches. 11a-10p Tues-Sun; Lunch only Mon.

• Juicy Lucy's

  address: 133 N Carrollton Ave
  Quality burgers, specializing in "juicy" versions stuffed with cheese and other extras. 11a-midnight
• Lola's, 3312 Esplanade. Mediterranean and Spanish. Menu highlights include romescu lamb. The palleas fresh made to order take half an hour but regulars find them worth the wait.

• Mandina's

  address: 3800 Canal Street
  Louisiana, Italian, and Seafood.

• Venezia

  address: 134 N. Carrollton Ave
  Creole-Italian and Pizza, another Mid-City landmark.

Splurge

• Ralph's On The Park

  address: 900 City Park Ave
  Highly regarded Contemporary Louisiana cuisine in a recently renovated 1860s tavern building.

• Redemption

  address: 3835 Iberville Street
  "New Orleans Revival Cuisine". Housed in an old church building; pre-Katrina visitors may remember it as the former location of "Christian's" Restaurant.

• Bayou Beer Garden

  address: 326 N Jefferson Davis Pkwy

• Beach Corner Lounge

  address: 4905 Canal St
  Dive bar, burgers

• The Bulldog

  address: 5135 Canal Boulevard
  Great beer selection; nice outdoor patio area.

• Pearl Wine Co.

  phone: +1 504 483-6314
  address: 3700 Orleans Ave
  Bar and adjacent wine store.

• Finn McCool's

  address: 3701 Banks St
  Very authentic Irish Pub, perhaps New Orleans' most internationally diverse clientele. Popular with European ex-pats and soccer fans. Pub trivia Monday nights. Can get smoky.

• Mick's Irish Pub

  phone: +1 504 482-9113
  address: 4801 Bienville St
  Neighborhood bar. Darts, ping-pong tables, cheap drinks.

• Mid-City Yacht Club

  address: 440 S St Patrick St
  New since Katrina, a friendly, unpretentious bar with a great beer selection. Watch the game on one of the HDTVs, throw some darts, or just hang out. Ball field across the street has baseball, softball, and soccer during the summer.

• Pal's Lounge

  address: 949 N Rendon St
  Authentic old Mid-City neighborhood bar. Air hockey table. Eclectic crowd. Don't leave without taking a look at the men's room.

• India House Hostel

  phone: +1 504 821-1904
  address: 124 S Lopez St
  Dorms (single-sex or co-ed) and private rooms (en suite or shared bathroom) available.

• NOLA Jazz House

  phone: +1 504 975-1311
  address: 3416 Canal Street
  Funky hostel located on the corner of Canal and Jeff Davis. Convenient to Canal streetcar line. Free breakfast, free wifi, ourdoor patio, and communal kitchen.

As of Spring 2012, the Mid-City branch of New Orleans Public Library is in the American Can Factory Building at 3700 Orleans Avenue. Many of the cafes listed above have free wi-fi.

Mid-City is an excellent microcosm of New Orleans as a whole in that some upper-income neighborhoods are bordered by lower-income neighborhoods and the level of safety can change from block to block. The neighborhood is generally safe in the daytime, but avoid areas on the Eastern side of Broad and around much of Tulane Avenue. The area closer to City Park around and to the West of N Carrollton is generally very safe, but always have your wits about you in this urban area.

Mid-City's central location allows easy access to other parts of town. Take the Canal Streetcar to the French Quarter and the Central Business District. Drive or take the bus to the other end of beautiful Esplanade Avenue to arrive at the lower edge of the Quarter and the hip Faubourg Marigny neighborhood (alternatively reached by taking the Canal Streetcar to the far end at Esplanade and the river levee). Lakeview and Lakeshore neighborhoods are a short drive away to the north west; to the north east is the Gentilly neighborhood. The Carrollton neighborhood at the upper end of Uptown can be driven to by taking Carrollton Avenue to the other end. The #32 bus "Leonidas" runs from Carrollton Avenue at Esplanade Mid-City to the Old Carrollton Riverbend neighborhood then ends by the Zoo in Audubon Park. However it winds through a rather rough section of Hollygrove en route, and it runs less than once an hour. Those relying on public transit may wish to consider getting to Uptown and Carrollton by a more indirect route: take the Canal Streetcar to the Central Business District, then the green St. Charles Streetcar up. While this route is longer, it may be less aggravating and is certainly much more picturesque.