Paris/17th arrondissement

By plane

Although the 17th is not particularly close to any of the Paris airports, it is there where airport buses from Charles de Gaulle Airport (Les Cars Airfrance) and Beauvais-Tille Airport (the official shuttle bus) land, stopping at Porte Maillot (Les Cars also stop at Place de l'Étoile). If you want to start exploring right after getting off your airport shuttle bus, or head to the hotel without having to transfer further, the 17th is where you can start your Paris adventure.

By Transiliens

The suburban Transiliens train lines J and L cross the district on their way to Gare Saint-Lazare, but only Transilien J stops within the 17th at Pont-Cardinet. If you arrive on Transilien L, you have to go back a short distance from Saint-Lazare to find yourself in the 17th.

By RER

RER lines A and C cross in the 17th, but do not share a common station - the Line A runs from west to east along the southern boundary of the district, with a station at Place Charles de Gaulle, while the Line C runs from South to North closer to the western border of the district with stops at Neuilly – Porte Maillot, Pereire – Levallois and Porte de Clichy.

By Métro

Line 3 has stops at Pereire, Porte de Champerret, and Wagram among others.

Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris's upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this!

• Marché PonceletStreet market.

• Le Palais des Congrès de ParisA convention centre.

• Marché des BatignollesThis covered market is known for its organic produce, and has fish and meat and a supermarket (G20) as well.

Though the diversity of cuisine is definitely a notch below the rest of Paris, the 17th arrondissement represents probably the best opportunity to experience true Parisian and French food. The area does house some of the finest Algerian and World cuisine in Paris. If you want a twist on French wine and food, go try some!

• l'Abadache

  phone: +33 1 42 36 37 33
  address: 89, rue Lemercier
  A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition, but with English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes.

• Aux Couleurs du Monde

  address: 118, rue Truffaut
  A Lao/Honduran restaurant with superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service, and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles bobos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening.

• Le Bistral

  phone: +33 1 42 63 59 61
  address: 80, rue Lemercier
  Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again.

• Bistrot des Dames

  phone: +33 1 45 22 13 42
  address: 18, rue des Dames
  The romantic bistro offers simple seasonal plates and has a charming garden in summer time.

• Brasserie Wepler

  phone: +33 1 45 22 13 42
  address: 14, Place de Clichy
  Excellent service, open late, Seafood specialities.

• Jaipur

  phone: +33 1 42 94 13 14
  address: 25, rue des Dames
  The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too.

• A Joy in Food

  phone: +33 1 43 87 96 79
  address: 2, rue Truffaut
  Vegetarian home cooking which leans heavily into Laurel's Kitchen territory. It's not the Potager du Marais (see Paris/3rd_arrondissement), but it's a close runner-up.

• Niv's

  phone: +33 1 42 36 37 33
  address: 8, rue des Batignolles
  A Franco-Italian bistro with high-end Italian dishes.

• Le Réfuge

  phone: +33 1 42 93 46 16
  address: 34, rue Lemercier
  The drinks speciality here is an assortment of flavoured vodkas. The food, served in the spacious seating area in back is traditional, including a huge cheese platter.

• Le Bar Belge

  phone: +33 1 44 70 06 07
  address: 75, av Saint Ouen
  Opened in 1954 as Paris was finally recovering from the occupation, the Bar Belge serves dozens of different Belgian beers, ales, and lambics in a locals-dominated, but very friendly room. They also have Vlaams Frites, the original "french" fries. Free Wi-Fi.

• Les Caves Populaires

  address: 22, rue des Dames
  A major bobo hangout, this one specialized in wine as opposed to the more beer-oriented Lush.

• James Joyce Pub

  phone: +33 1 44 09 70 32
  address: 71, boul Gouvion St Cyr
  Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer.

• Le Kloog

  phone: +33 1 42 29 59 18
  address: 63, rue Guy Môquet
  This cosy and well-designed little space specializes in wholesome organic treats. Vegetarian deli and free Wi-Fi.

• Sans Gêne

  phone: +33 1 46 27 67 82
  address: 112, rue Legendre
  The name means "without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free Wi-Fi.

• Lush

  phone: +33 1 43 87 49 46
  address: 16, rue des Dames
  Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.

Hotels and other accommodation facilities in the 17th are mostly to be found clustered at the extremities of the arrondissement, near the attractions - the Place de l'Étoile the Palais du Congress and Place de Clichy (Montmartre). Those provide reasonable connections to the rest of Paris, especially Place de l'Étoile. While cheaper accommodation can be found deeper into the 17th, do make sure that it has effective transportation connections you will need to visit your points of interest.

Budget

• Hotel Eldorado

  phone: +33 1 45 22 35 21
  address: 18, rue des Dames
  A former maison de rendez-vous, a home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10ː00) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk.

• Hotel Elysées Parc Monceau

  phone: +33 1 47 63 88 60
  address: 38, rue Cardinet
  Three star charm in an outstanding residential district, just around the corner from Parc Monceau.

• Hotel Prince Albert Monceau

  address: 9, rue Tarbe
  Free Wi-Fi.

• Holiday Inn Paris - Montmartre

  phone: +33 1 44 92 33 40
  address: 23 Rue Damremont Paris, 75018

Mid-range

• Hôtel Acacias Etoile

  phone: +33 1 43 80 60 22
  address: 11, rue des Acacias
  A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren't large, but they are immaculate.

• Hotel Ampère

  phone: +33 1 44 29 17 17
  address: 102, av de Villiers
  One of the most inexpensive luxury 4 star hotels in Paris. A garden in the heart of the elegant 17th arrondissement, not far from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées.

• Mercure Paris Arc de Triomphe Etoile

  address: Avenue des Ternes 27
  Modern rooms featuring frosted glass and stiff curtain dividers between sleeping areas and bathrooms, which may not be to everybody's liking. The most expensive rooms enjoy terraces with views over the 17th all the way to La Defense.

• Novotel Paris 17 Porte d'Asnières

  address: Avenue Porte d 'Asnières 34
  A typical Novotel in a faraway corner of the 17th, not really close to anything nor particularly conveniently located.

Splurge

• Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile

  phone: +33 1 40 68 12 34
  address: Place du Général Kœnig 3
  The tallest hotel in Paris is the lone skyscraper in the northwest of Paris, adjacent to the Palais du Congres. It enjoys an unobstructed line of sight towards the Eiffel Tower from the rooms facing it and its top-floor bar. After Hyatt took over the property, it is being gradually updated, but still not entirely up to the best Hyatt worldwide standards.

• Le Méridien Etoile

  phone: +33 1 40 68 34 34
  address: Boulevard Gouvion Saint Cyr 81
  The very first Le Meridien in the world, built in 1972 to cater for Air France passengers arriving on the newly-acquired widebody jets. Behind the distinctive 1970s facade are updated rooms and common areas with contemporary design and facilities. The hotel faces the Palais du Congres and caters mostly for business travellers and less so to tourists than other Starwood properties in Paris. This is the largest hotel by room count in Paris, with 1,025 rooms of various types. The less expensive Classic and Deluxe rooms have more dated decor, the Urban and Executive rooms have been thoroughly updated to 21st century standards.

• Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe

  address: Avenue de Wagram 39
  The Renaissance is a thoroughly modern property with floor-to-ceiling windows in the posh Avenue Wagram, just a short walk from Place de l'Étoile. The building was designed by the same Christian de Portzamparc who gave the Palais du Congres its current appearance.

• Le Bar BelgeFree Wi-Fi for customers.

• Le KloogFree Wi-Fi for customers.