Paris/1st arrondissement
For occupying such a compact space, the 1st feels remarkably different from one end to the other. The almost incredibly upscale western end of the arrondissement gives way to the hustle and bustle of the big city east of the Palais Royal, and then further east to the pedestrian (and tourist) dominated area around Les Halles and the (now closed) Samaritaine, where tourists mix with (especially young) Parisiens and Parisiennes in huge numbers (on the order of 800,000 unique visitors per day according to the Mayor's office).
The Axe historique is a line of landmarks, which passes through the 1st, extending out to La Défense in the west, and the 4th arrondissement in the east.
Understand
With fewer than 18,000 inhabitants, the 1st is statistically the least populous and least densely inhabited of all the 20 arrondissements, but at the same time among the most visited by Parisians and out-of-towners alike. Like every other arrondissement, it is divided into four quartiers, each with a different character:
# Quartier Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois runs along the bank of the Seine across the district, encompassing the Tuileries gardens, the Louvre and the western part of Ile de la cité.
# Quartier Les Halles has a markedly different, much more down-to-earth character, dominated by the eponymous massive Les Halles shopping centre (under redevelopment until 2016)
# Quartier Palais-Royal is dominated by the Palais Royal, and contains the larger part of the busy cosmopolitan Avenue de l'Opera.
# Quartier Place Vendôme in the west is centred around the Place Vendôme and characterized by a regular, 18th-century street grid. The quarter's historic buildings house the most luxurious hotels and boutiques of famous fashion and jewellery brands.
Get in
Other métro stations that are major hubs allowing easy access to the 1st arrondissement are the and , both with exits at the western border of the 1st. Lines , and traverse the arrondissement roughly from east to west, stopping close to important points such as the entrance to the Louvre museum. Lines and are fully automated and it is worth acquainting oneself with their modus operandi and safety precautions before using them.
RER C, which runs generally on the left bank of the Seine, does not stop in the 1st, but you can use it to arrive at and cross the Seine in style over the Passerelle Solferino footbridge right into the Tuileries.
The metro station is at the Rue de Pyramides, not at the pyramid at the entrance of the Louvre. For that pyramid and the entrance to the museum, travel to the station called .
Arriving from specific points
- From Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) Airport (CDG), take RER B3 to Châtelet/Les-Halles.
- From Gare du Nord (where many high-speed international trains arrive, including the Eurostar from London), the direct connections are pretty much exclusively those with Châtelet/Les-Halles on or
- From Gare de Lyon, take , which stops at Châtelet/Les-Halles and Pyramides
- From La Défense, take and alight at any station within the 1st, e.g., Palais-Royale/Musée-de-Louvre or Tuileries
Get around
Having arrived in the 1st arrondissement walking will most likely suffice for transport. Paris cabs are quite cheap, but even they don't have access to much of the car-free eastern end of the arrondissement.
If travelling from east to west by Métro you are probably better off using any station other than Châtelet/Les Halles unless you have to connect there. Although the Métro trains are fast and frequent, the crowded labyrinth at Châtelet can make getting to the trains an adventure.
See
Landmarks
Colonne VendômeThe centrepiece of a magnificent 8-sided square first laid out in 1699 to show off an equestrian statue of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The statue was removed amid revolutionary fervor in 1792 and replaced in 1806 with the Colonne de la Grande Armée. This was modelled on Trajan's column in Rome and decorated with Napoleon's military exploits. The present column is a replica, however, as the original was pulled down during the 1871 Paris Commune. Place Vendôme represents the best of well-heeled Paris, being home to an abundance of exclusive boutiques, jewellers and fashion labels—Cartier, Boucheron, Trussardi, van Cleef & Arpels—several banks, the French Ministry of Justice, and the Hôtel Ritz.
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phone: +33 1 53 73 78 50The ancient medieval fortress and prison of the city's island, site of some remarkable medieval royal architecture and the scene of Marie Antoinette's imprisonment in the period leading to her execution in 1793; lots of revolutionary associations.
Église Saint-EustacheThe massive parish church of the Les Halles area is a notable example of late Gothic interspersed with Renaissance details (including the entire front façade), as it was only completed in the 17th century. Its unique form results from a combination of relatively short length and impressive height of over 30 metres inside. The latter allows room not only for an array of stained glass windows and paintings, but also France's largest church organ of 8,000 pipes. The sculpture Écoute, depicting an oversized human head, was placed in front of the church's southern facade and has become a favourite photo spot.
Jardin des TuileriesBuilt adjoining the now-lost royal palace of the Tuileries, these gardens lying immediately west of the Louvre offer a central open space for Parisians and visitors with semi-formal gardens (an outdoor gallery for modern sculpture), various cafés, ice cream and crépe stalls, and a summer fun fair. The gardens are frequently home to a giant Ferris wheel and enclose the Musée de la Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume.
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phone: +33 1 45 20 82 56Ordered by Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642), King Louis XIII's prime Minister in 1629 (completed in 1636); originally called Palais Cardinal; it became Le Palais Royal when Anne d'Autriche, Louis XIII's wife, came to live here to get away from the Louvre palace. It eventually housed Louis XIV until the move to Versailles. It includes also a beautiful garden Les jardins du Palais Royal, enclosed by the buildings. It's been the theatre of one of the seminal events of the French Revolution (Camille Desmoulins made a famous declaration here in 1789). The Théatre Français nearby was built in 1716. There are numerous restaurants inside the garden , including famous Le Grand Véfour. There's also the controversial Colonnes de Buren, striped columns installed within the inside yard amid the 17th century architecture.
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phone: +33 1 42 60 13 96address: 2 place du LouvreThis Gothic church functioned until the 19th century as the parish church of the kings of France. In this role, the church has sometimes played a gruesome part in history. Its bell called 'Marie' sounded on the night of 23 August 1572, to launch the St. Bartholomew's Day Massacre, in which thousands of Huguenots were killed by Catholic mobs. Nowadays, the church is peaceful and an active parish church for commoners (the monarchy having long since given way to the Republic), and well worth visiting.
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phone: +33 1 53 73 8 51address: 4 blvd du PalaisSoaring stained glass windows beaming ample light onto the rich primary colours of the tile mosaics on the floor, this photogenic church was built by the French kings to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns. Make sure you go on a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte-Chapelle a miss, as the play of coloured lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day. As the chapelle is inside the Courts of Justice, there will thus be a security check.
Bourse de commerceThe former commodities exchange building is now not needed for its original purpose as the exchange has been digitized, and is mainly used for special events, often unrelated to its original function.
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address: 19, rue de la MonnaieLa Samaritaine was formerly one of Paris's greatest department stores, but closed in 2005, officially due to fire safety issues, but widely rumoured to be for financial reasons. The spectacular art nouveau building has been neglected ever since while the owners, LVMH, have been caught up in litigation with the Paris authorities and other stakeholders over redevelopment proposals. A proposal to reconstruct the building as a mixed-use development was finally granted permission in 2015 and work continues.
Museums and galleries
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phone: +33 1 40 20 53 17address: Place du CarrouselIts exhibits come from such diverse origins as ancient Egypt, classical Greece and the Roman Empire, medieval Europe, and Napoleonic France. Its most famous exhibit, of course, is Leonardo da Vinci's painting of the Mona Lisa (French: La Joconde, Italian: La Gioconda), generally to be found surrounded by hordes of camera-flashing tourists. The Louvre poses many of the same challenges to the visitor as Paris itself; overwhelming in size, crowded in high seasons, and much information available only in French. If you want to see everything in the Louvre, plan at least two full days. However, it is better to pick and choose, as the collection was assembled with an eye to completeness rather than quality. As of July 2019, due to intense crowding and reports of ticket fraud, entry now almost always requires a pre-booked timed ticket, and the Paris Museum Pass is no longer accepted.
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phone: +33 1 44 77 80 07Reopened after extensive renovations, this small museum near the Louvre houses the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume Collection, sold to the French Republic on very generous terms and numbering 143 paintings from the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th century (15 Cézannes, 24 Renoirs, 10 Matisses, 12 Picassos, 28 Derains, 22 Soutines). The collection joined the eight immense Water Lilies that Monet gave France in 1922 and which have been displayed since 1927 in two huge oval rooms purpose-built on the artist's instructions.
Jeu de PaumeBuilt during the First Empire, in imitation of the Orangerie, this small building is used by the Galerie Nationale to display temporary exhibitions of art photography, either contemporary or historic. This museum once housed many of the Impressionist painters that are now to be found in the Musée d'Orsay on the other side of the River Seine.
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phone: +33 1 44 55 57 50address: 107, rue de RivoliA monument to the French art de vivre, housed in a 19th-century wing of the Louvre that has been restored to beaux-arts splendour, its galleries and period rooms showcase eight centuries of Gallic taste in interior decoration.
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phone: +33 1 40 67 97 66address: 21, rue HéroldThe little brother of the original Musée en Herbe in the Bois de Boulogne, this museum is also geared to children. They have games and hands-on exhibits, so you won't have to supervise quite as closely as in other museums. Arts workshops are available as well, but you'll need to reserve a space in advance.
Do
A number of Paris theaters are located in the eastern end of the 1st. English language productions are not unheard of, but the opera is likely to be in Italian anyhow. Your best bet if you are interested in finding a show in either language is to pick up a copy of Pariscope which you can find at any newsstand for around €0.50. There are ticket outlets at Forum Les Halles (FNAC) among other locations.
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address: 1 Place ColetteThe theatre is one of the rare state theatres in France. The company's primary venue is the Salle Richelieu. It was enlarged and modified in the 1800s, then rebuilt in 1900 after a severe fire. The played repertoires sum to around 3,000 works.
Ô Chateau, Paris Wine TastingDiscover French wines with a native French sommelier. Informative, relaxing, and fun. In English in a beautiful Parisian loft.
Buy
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phone: +33 1 42 96 01 80address: 10, av de l’opéraThis shop sells stylish umbrellas and old-style canes, meant to last a lifetime. Also fancy hats, scarfs and gloves.
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Carrefour Express Paris Saint Honoré
phone: +33 1 49 26 04 28address: 205, rue saint HonoréA small version of the French Carrefour supermarket chain has the appearance of a neighbourhood shop, with stalls filled with fresh fruit and vegetables on its shopfront, and is about the only place to get reasonably-priced nourishment and beverages on the go when visiting the Vendôme area. -
address: 99 Rue de RivoliA diverse underground shopping precinct adjoining the Louvre Museum. Open daily including Sundays. There is also a direct access into the Louvre.
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address: 101 Rue BergerIn the late 1960s what was Paris's primary farmers' market moved out to the suburbs to be replaced by a park above ground, and a sprawling underground shopping centre below. The interior design is strikingly period (think Logan's Run). The place is showing its age now, but still draws nearly a half-million Parisians per day, mostly teenagers. There's a movie theatre and a media library too. Les Halles underwent extensive refurbishment in 2016.
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phone: +33 1 55 35 35 96address: 231, rue Saint-HonoréThe chocolatier is known for his excellent hand made chocolates especially the "praliné croquant".
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phone: +33 1 42 60 76address: 224, rue RivoliBritish and American bookshop, specialising in fine arts.
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phone: +33 1 42 21 15 47address: 10, Passage Véro DodatThe "cordonnerie" repairs shoes and leather with the best materials.
Place VendômeHigh-end jewelry and watch boutiques on the place created by Napoleon I.
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address: 19, place VendômeOn her wedding day Princess Charlène de Monaco wore a Lorenz Bäumer tiara. This new jewellery-maker fashions novel forms combined with classical influences.
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phone: +33 1 55 04 11 11address: 22-24, place VendômePrincess Caroline de Monaco got her wedding ornament at this traditional shop, open since 1906.
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phone: +33 1 42 44 17 77address: 10, place VendômeThe Swiss luxury watch manufacturer, founded in 1851, is known for precise mechanics.
Eat
On the other hand if you are looking for a nice posh place to take your mom or a date there are plenty, and some of them actually have food that is good enough to be worth the considerable prices.
Budget
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phone: +33 1 45 08 49 84address: 5, rue HéroldSmall plates, also for take-away.
Mid-range
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Aux Bons Crus
phone: +33 1 42 60 06 45address: 7, rue des Petits ChampsSmall bistro with typical French "terroir" (charcuteries de Bobosse, les rognons de veau et les andouillettes) and good wines is nice for dining. -
phone: +33 1 49 26 06 60address: 93, rue de Rivoli / cour Napoléon du LouvrePart of the Grand Louvre redevelopment. Café Marly was opened in 1994 and is on the balcony on the northern terrace of the Cour Napoléon. Patrons can enjoy direct views of the Louvre Pyramid while sitting back in comfortable chairs, watching tourists stroll by.
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Chez Denise
phone: +33 1 42 36 21 82address: 5, rue ProuvairesSmall, owner-operated bistro with traditional French country food in a nearly rustic setting. As such it's not exactly veggie-friendly. -
phone: +33 1 42 33 55 10address: 14, rue Jean-Jacques RousseauThe place in Paris to have an perfect breakfast or drink tea in the afternoon. The tartes are delicious.
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La Cloche des Halles
phone: +33 1 42 36 93 89address: 28 Rue CoquillièreThe bell no longer rings, but the brasserie-restaurant still has the flair from the old little bars from the good old times named "troquets". -
phone: +33 1 45 08 07 41address: 13, rue des Lavandieres Sainte OpportuneSmall restaurant serving mostly tasty Basque food. Fantastic choice of wines.
Splurge
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phone: +33 1 42 96 98 89address: 15, rue des Petits ChampsWhat was once just a great wine bar with decent food has become a must-visit restaurant with the addition of star chef Thierry Bourbonnais. Second-empire atmosphere with fantastic food.
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Mystery Cuisine
phone: +33 1 40 20 03 02address: 37, rue de MontpensierThe restaurant serves fusion cuisine inspired by French Vietnamese meals in an atmosphere perfect for couples.
Drink
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Bar Hemingway
phone: +33 1 43 16 33 65address: 15 Place VendômeHemingway tried to drink here once per week even before he made it big. In August 1944 Hemingway made a booze-powered drive into Paris ahead of the advancing Free French 2nd Tank Division to "liberate the Ritz", and specifically the bar which was shortly thereafter renamed in his honour. Today the bar is considered by many to be one of the best bars in the world, in no small part due to the bar-tending skills of Colin Field, who creates elaborate cocktails as a fine art, and with the rest of the staff is skilled at bringing his guests together in conversation. -
phone: +33 1 40 39 00 18address: 18, rue Saint DenisYou probably didn't think you were coming to Paris to sample Australian culture, but if after a long day of strolling from one end of the city to another you would just like to let go a bit and meet up with some fellow anglophones then you could do a lot worse than this almost legendarily hard-partying Aussie joint (ask the neighbours). Warning: as with other Aussie places in Paris for some reason, weekend nights here tend to bring out hoards of young single Frenchmen looking to chat up some (any) visiting sheilas. This has been known to lead to, um, confrontations. ~€7 pints.
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Juvénile's
phone: +33 1 42 97 46 49address: 47, rue RichelieuThe bistro serves many different wines from around the world and tapas. You can buy a bottle to take home if you like it. -
phone: +33 1 42 61 05 09address: 13, rue des Petits ChampsIt's actually a restaurant and is more upscale than Juvéniles, serving good food and good-to-great bottles of wine with a focus on the Rhône Valley, but including many from Burgundy, the Loire, as well as Italians, and "Atlantic crossing" Californians. The dinner menu by chef François Yon Great won the "Bib Gourmet 2009" award, and there are cheeses & desserts (yummy crumble) for after. Reservations recommended.
Sleep
During fashion weeks, hotels, especially the 1st, are occupied by trade professionals and visitors, as well as brand showrooms. Finding a room can be a challenge and the rates go sky-high. Consult Mode à Paris for fashion week dates and avoid them if you do not want to clash with it.
Budget
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Centre International BVJ Paris-Louvre
phone: +33 1 53 00 90 90address: 20, rue Jean-Jacques RousseauThis is just about as cheap as it's going to get in the 1st. If you are here to study at the Louvre, and want to stay focused it has a location which can't be beat, just across rue Rivoli. -
phone: +33 1 40 26 25 40address: 12, rue MondétourNext to Les Halles Metro Station.
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phone: +33 1 42 96 28 50address: 12, rue de RichelieuAnother semi-cheapie right in the middle of everything.
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phone: +33 1 42 36 20 38address: 85, rue Saint-HonoréClose to the Louvre. The place was renovated in the last few years, so the comfort level is pretty good considering it hasn't received a star rating yet.
Mid-range
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address: 218, rue de RivoliThe executive and deluxe rooms offer a breathtaking views of the Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries, and the Eiffel Tower. Classic Parisian-style hotel next to shopping and cultural hot spots.
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phone: +33 1 42 33 74 59address: 20, av VictoriaAnglophiles in Paris could do worse than to stay at this most Anglophile of French hotels. The location is good, at the very east end of the 1st, within an easy walk of Notre Dame, Les Halles, and above the central hub Métro station.
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phone: +33 1 42 61 47 31address: 5, rue des Bons-EnfantsMost reviewers give the hotel very high marks for cleanliness and comfort, but the real draw is the location: only steps from the Palais Royal/Louvre stop on Métro Line 1.
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address: 5, rue des CapucinesThis charming 3-star hotel is next to the Place Vendôme and 2 minutes walk from the Opera Garnier and famous Parisian department stores. Antique furniture and paintings create an atmosphere of typical Parisian house.
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address: 21, rue des Prêtres Saint Germain l'AuxerroisAs its name suggests, this hotel is really close to the Louvre. Rooms on the street offer an impressive view on the Louvre and its central location is ideal.
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phone: +33 1 40 26 90 17address: 17 Avenue VictoriaA cozy, competitively priced 24 room hotel with a friendly Art Deco atmosphere. It is located next to the Chatelet Theatre in the very centre of Paris across from Notre Dame. It is close to bus, taxi, Metro and RER stations: Chatelet les Halles, as well as three nearby monitored parking garages.
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phone: +33140138580address: 4 rue des HallesModern aparthotel with 9 furnished apartements, from budget studios to 2BR duplex. Various amenities including AC, kitchen and digital concierge.
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address: 8 Place Marguerite de NavarreRenovated to Novotel's newest standards, it is one of the brand's flagships and earns consistently good reviews. While much cheaper than the luxury hotels closer to Place Vendôme, it is one of the pricier Novotels in Paris, if not the world.
Splurge
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phone: +33 144 584 458address: 33-37 rue CambonIn the fashion district of Paris, the Castille Paris offers chic rooms that all look out onto the Rue Cambon. Some rooms are designed in a "Coco Chanel" style with beige and black tones.
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phone: +33 1 42 44 50 00address: 239, rue Saint-HonoréWhen the Costes brothers, who made their fortune in the Paris café trade, opened this designer hotel a couple of years ago it became an instant hit with the rich and famous, especially those of Hollywood. Whether it's worth the price for the exquisite interior decoration and the chance to rub elbows with a few movie stars is up to you to decide. They don't pay travel agent commissions, so either book it yourself, or pony up the extra €50 the agent would normally get.
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phone: +33 1 43 16 30 70address: 15 Place VendômeIf there is any one hotel in the world which is not merely "putting on" the Ritz it would be this one, whose very name has entered the English language as a generic word for luxury (or the appearance thereof). The Ritz may not in fact be the fanciest hotel in Paris anymore, but it's always in the running. It's 350 times the price of a budget room in the neighborhood, but heck, maybe it's your honeymoon.
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phone: +33 1 55 04 55 00address: 1, Place VendômeOccupying a building which was once the site of the Embassy of the Republic of Texas, the Hôtel de Vendôme is one of the most exclusive addresses anywhere, much like the neighbouring Ritz. The 29 rooms each have been decorated in the style of a different period, such as Classic, Baroque, or Deco.
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Hôtel Du Louvre, a Hyatt Hotel (under renovation until early 2019)
address: Place André MalrauxThe hotel, built in 1855, is a brand itself enough for Hyatt to take second place to it. The hotel is a cornerstone for the Unbound Collection, a new Hyatt sub-brand created for legendary properties, many of which pre-date the Hyatt chain itself. It is literally next to the Louvre and keeps the belle epoque charm alive throughout the property, albeit remaining contemporary and not pretentious. The Brasserie, where in. al. breakfasts are served, has a terrace with a splendid direct view of the Louvre. -
address: 228, Rue De RivoliIn business since 1815 and founded to cater to demanding English travellers, Le Meurice has a rare distinction of being considered an actual palace by the French government (yes, they do regulate such things). Refurbished many times, the last time in 2007 by Philippe Stark, it has followed the changing demands of discerning travellers and remains as up-to-date as possible yet retains numerous artefacts of its long history. Both its rooms and its famous ground-floor restaurant are frequent haunts of celebrities of all sorts, and it becomes a true potpourri of famous faces during the Paris Fashion Weeks.
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Renaissance Paris Vendôme Hotel
address: 4 Rue Du Mont ThaborHidden in a side street and slightly demure, the Renaissance offers a welcome break from the revival-furniture-and-chandelier-filled surrounding hotels. Tasteful decor and quality service make up for the fact that some rooms are on the small side. -
phone: +33 1 44 77 11 11address: 3 rue de CastiglioneA favourite with wealthy Russian tourists, the Westin Vendôme seems almost like a poor relative to other luxury hotels in the district, and certainly rises above the chain's average to match them. Not all rooms are created equal and to get the best one needs to shell out a significant extra for the Tuileries view and high floor. All rooms are quite large by Parisian standards though. There hotel has a sizeable area of function rooms and there is almost always something happening inside. When not closed for an event, the Summer Terrace is a highlight.
Connect
Internet cafés
Wireless hotspots
There are a number of cafés in each arrondissement which offer free wireless for customers (for 20 min at a time). In the 1st:-
Chez Flottes
address: 2, rue Cambon -
Café du Pont Neuf
address: 14, quai du Louvre -
Le Commerce
address: 12, rue Coquillère -
Tabac du Châtelet
address: 8, rue St Denis
A complete listing is available from the company which provides the service:
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phone: +33 1 42 77 35 63address: 56, rue du Temple
Of course many hotels also offer wireless connectivity, but usually for a fee.