Paris/9th arrondissement
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The 9th arrondissement of Paris is a diverse, "in between" section of the French capital. The Grands Boulevards area of shopping thoroughfares and flagship department stores (as well as the original Opera - hence the common name for the district) is to be found in the southern part of the arrondissement (shared with the 2nd and the 8th). By way of contrast, the fading red-light and cheap shopping district of Pigalle is in the north of the 9th, closely adjoining Montmartre on the hill above in the 18th. In between the two, relatively-speaking, lies a traveller's no-man's-land / terra incognita - though the streets around St Lazare used to be the Impressionists stronghold in Paris.Get in
By Métro
Main stations are: , , , , , .
See
As with the other 19 arrondissements of Paris there are a lot of little commemorative plaques scattered around on the houses of the 9th. One example is the site of the first public demonstration of the Lumiere brother's moving picture projection system which is marked by a pair of commemorative plaques at 14, boul des Capucines between rue Scribe and rue Edward VIII.
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phone: +33 1 47 70 85 05address: 10, boul MontmartreThe Musée Grévin is a waxwork museum with some 500 characters arranged in scenes from the history of France and modern life.
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phone: +33 1 48 74 38 50address: 14, rue de la RochefoucauldThe house of the symbolist painter has now become a museum to his life and work.
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address: place de l'OpéraThe magnificent setting of The Phantom of the Opera, the inside is as opulent as the outside. However, since the opening of the Opera Bastille (12th) in 1989, the Palais Garnier has been reserved mostly for dance performances, particularly ballet.
Colorful basketball courtAn unusually colorful court in the middle of buildings.
Do
Admire the skyline from the roofs of Printemps or the Galeries Lafayette. There's also a hot air balloon at Parc André Citroën (southwest Paris), but not on windy days.
les Grands BoulevardsGo shopping at the grands magasins (department stores).
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address: 28, boul des CapucinesA music hall, which houses concerts for an older crowd. Be sure to tip the usher €2 or so.
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phone: +33 1 47 42 35 71address: 10 place Édouard VIIFrench theatre, for those with command of the language.
Buy
Particularly interesting in this area are the covered passageways built in the 19th century, charming early versions of the shopping mall. There are several in the vicinity of boulevard Haussmann and rue Vivienne, including passage Jouffroy and passage Verdeau, and across the boulevard Haussmann in the 2nd arrondissement, the passage des Panoramas.
The department stores along the boulevard Haussmann are overpriced compared to smaller specialty shops. For a more interesting selection and better quality-price ratio, venture out to the innumerable shopping streets in Paris. Make sure to say bonjour on entering and merci, au revoir on leaving. For more information on common courtesy in Paris, see the main Paris article.
The department stores along the boulevard Haussmann are overpriced compared to smaller specialty shops. For a more interesting selection and better quality-price ratio, venture out to the innumerable shopping streets in Paris. Make sure to say bonjour on entering and merci, au revoir on leaving. For more information on common courtesy in Paris, see the main Paris article.
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address: 40, boul HaussmannThe gourmet section is a Paris institution that takes up an entire floor, featuring (among many other things) several competing vendors of deluxe baguettes, a few hundred types of cheese, and an entire aisle devoted to mustard. Depending on your home country you may be eligible for a 10% discount for all goods (you just need to show a flyer that is attached to tourist office Paris maps).
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address: 64, boul Haussmann
Eat
If you're in the southern part of the neighbourhood, you might also consider arrondissements 2 or 8 - neither are more than a short walking distance. You could also visit the food section of any of the grands magasins, or one of the smaller traiteurs (shops selling prepared food), and pick up the ingredients for a piquenique in the square Louis XVI on boulevard Haussmann and rue Pasquier; square de la Trinité, at the top of rue de la chaussée d'Antanfree concerts in the church at 12:30 most Thursdays; or the square du Montholon on rue de la Fayette between rue Cadet and rue du faubourg Poissonière. Otherwise, here are some good eating options:
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Au Relais
phone: +33 1 45 23 25 22address: 7, rue CadetDownstairs is the local bar with a few tables; most patrons know the two women behind the bar by name. Upstairs is a low-ceilinged dining room. On weekdays they have a €12 lunch menu for two courses and a small pitcher of wine. The food is traditional and very good. -
phone: +33 1 47 70 86 29address: 7, rue du Faubourg MontmartreSince 1896. Menu changes daily, historic building. Nice and cheap food. Plain cooking; don't expect haute cuisine. Usually the line is bigger than the reputation.
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Corneil
phone: +33 1 49 95 92 25address: 18, rue CondorcetGood French restaurant, reasonable prices. The côte de boeuf pour deux (steak for two) is a classic. -
address: 5, rue Henri MonnierGood, reasonably priced Indian restaurant. Alcohol is not sold, so locals often bring their own wine.
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La Marmite
phone: +33 1 42 55 83 42address: 2, boul de ClichyNice sunny place for having lunch. -
phone: +33 1 42 68 86 80address: place Jacques RouchéA modern restaurant designed by Odile Decq opened in the 19th century Opéra Garnier and convenient to Galeries Lafayette or Printemps.
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Pizzeria Da Carmine
phone: +33 1 48 78 28 01address: 61, rue des MartyrsGood (real) Italian restaurant/pizzeria. Does not accept credit cards. -
Pizza Marzano
phone: +33 1 47 70 33 33address: 30, boul des ItaliensUK travellers will be familiar with the above-average pizza / pasta menu, speedy table service and very reasonable prices. This outlet has a large al fresco area for the warmer months.
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Pizza Marzano Clichy
phone: +33 1 40 16 52 30address: 10 bis, place de ClichyOn the site of an old Paris restaurant, La Champagne, this second "Pizza Express" outlet (they're both in the 9th) is close to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre. -
Le Roi du Pot-au-Feu
phone: +33 1 47 42 37 10address: 34, rue VignonThe menu is very short, but the meals are big and good. The best pot-au-feu in the world. Very nice, typical Parisian atmosphere.
Drink
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Bar des Roses
phone: +33 1 49 70 09 22address: 1, rue de Vintimille -
Le Café Zéphyr
phone: +33 1 47 70 80 14address: 12, boul MontmartreA typical brasserie with a fine choice of simple food (salads, etc.). -
I Golosi
phone: +33 1 48 24 18 63address: 6, rue Grange BatelièreOn a quiet side street, a good Italian wine bar and shop where you can buy the wines you will have tasted.
Sleep
Budget
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Hotel de Lille
phone: +33 1 47 70 38 76address: 2, rue du MontholonFamily-run, fairly Spartan, near the Gare du Nord. The area around this train station, worked by street prostitutes, is not very pleasant at night. -
phone: +33 1 42 81 18 86address: 39, rue RodierThe Perfect advertises bargain rates for backpackers and families.
Mid-range
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Hotel Best Western Opéra d'Antin
phone: +33 1 48 74 12 99address: 75, rue de ProvenceWhen you exit Hotel Best Western Opéra d’Antin and leave the large department stores behind you (Galeries Lafayette & Le Printemps), just cross boulevard Haussmann and you will find yourself before the Opera Garnier. -
phone: +33 1 48 74 03 29address: 46, rue Notre Dame de LoretteFriendly and English speaking staff. Free Wi-Fi in the rooms.
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phone: +33 1 47 70 12 90address: 11, rue de TreviseA three-star on a quiet street, yet close to bistros, supermarkets.
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phone: +33 1 42 85 05 44address: 49-51, rue La Fayette3 star hotel between Gare Saint Lazare and Gare du Nord.
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phone: +33 1 48 74 78 24address: 63, rue Sant-LazareThey serve a decent breakfast in the morning, but there is also a boulangerie and a bar down the street.
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phone: +33 1 53 16 33 33address: 2 rue de Parme 75009Boutique hotel of 29 rooms.
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phone: +33 1 48 78 61 60address: 10, rue de la Tour d'AuvergneOn a street full of surprises. A few steps away from Montmartre, rue des Martyrs, Opéra, and avenue Trudaine.
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Paris Hotel
phone: +33 1 42 85 43 43address: 23, rue Henri Monnier3 star near Pigalle. The rooms are of decent quality and the views of the street are charming and typically Parisian (lots of balconies and shutters at the front, and a pleasant garden view at the back.) There's free Wi-Fi in the rooms and a nice breakfast room. The street can get a little noisy at night, but that's typical of the area and probably not enough to keep you awake but you should be aware in case you happen to be a light sleeper. There is a Renault parking garage round the corner which charged €52 for 72 hours. -
address: 15, rue Montyon
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phone: +33 1 42 66 60 38address: 35 rue Caumartin 75009Founded in 1860, this elegant historic hotel was upgraded in 2016 to become a four-star hotel after a refit of some of its most important sections.
Splurge
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Hôtel Scribe
phone: +33 1 44 71 24 24address: 1, rue ScribeCrown jewel in the Sofitel chain and owned by Pakistan's national carrier PIA, this elegantly redecorated 4 star hotel hasn't lost any of its charm since it was first opened in 1895. All rooms are sound proofed and come with Wi-Fi. The apartments have a separate entrance and they can provide you with a nanny if needed. -
Intercontinental Paris Le Grand
phone: +33-1-40073232address: 2 Rue ScribeThis 4.5 star hotel is equipped with a health and fitness center, spa facilities, and standard internet service. It has a classic Parisian feel and a views of the Eiffel Tower.