Popayan
Understand
The city was founded in 1537 by Sebastian de Belalcazar. Because of its beautiful colonial houses, it is known as the "white city". Popayan has played a major role in Colombia's history dating back to the early days of the Spanish conquest and into the 20th century. A number of Colombian presidents were born in Popayan including, most recently, Guillermo Leon Valencia from 1962 to 1966. Other well-known citizens include Francisco Jose de Caldas (1768-1816) and Camilo Torres (1766-1816). Popayán has one of Colombia's oldest universities: the Universidad del Cauca, founded in 1827. The university is well known throughout the country for its Law School, Medical School, and its Electronics and Telecommunications Engineering programs. Nowadays around 220,000 people live in the city.
Climate
Get in
By plane
Popayan's airport does not have heavy traffic but you can reach the city by air. There are about four daily flights from Bogota to Popayan and vice versa. The airport is open between 6AM and 6PM. There are no flights between Cali and Popayan. The airport in the neighbouring city of Cali (100-minute car ride) serves many domestic and international destinations.By bus
There are numerous bus companies available. One of the most reliable bus operators is Expreso Bolivariano. Avoid Expreso Puerto Tejada and Expreso Palmira. There is significant guerrilla activity in the countryside near Popayan and it can be risky to travel by land during periods of disturbance if you are not a local. There are daily buses from the border town of Ipiales.- from Cali: COP$12,000, 3 hours with minibus COP$14,000, 2 hours
- from Armenia : COP$40,000, 7 hours (several a day)
- from Medellin: COP$60,000, 11 hours (7PM, 8PM, 1AM)
- from San Agustín: COP$34,000, 5 hours (six a day)
- from Tierradentro: COP$20,000, 4 hours (5AM, 8AM, 10:30AM, 1PM, 3PM)
- from Pasto: COP$25,000, roughly 6 hours, but double check before you go
- from Ipiales: COP$25,000 - 40,000, 7-8 hours (better during the day) - Many buses leave in the early morning.
Get around
See
Since Popayan was a seat of power during Spanish colonial times, there are numerous architectural gems in the city. Some of the most impressive are, naturally, churches. Do not miss:
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Iglesia de San Francisco
address: Calle 4 and Carrera 9Large baroque church built during the 16th century but then destroyed by and earthquake in 1736. It was rebuilt in 1790. Its tower contains one of the biggest bell of America made from gold and bronze. Inside the church, there are ten decorated altars. -
Iglesia La Ermita
address: Calle 5 and Carrera 2The church Ermita de Jesús Nazareno is the oldest church of the city dates back to 1546. It has a refined altar and colonial paintings (frescoes) that were discovered after the 1983 earthquake. BelenSmall church perched on top of a small hill overlooking Popayan.
Parque de CaldasPopayan's central square, named after one of Popayan's most famous citizens: Francisco Jose de Caldas (1768-1816). A statue of him is visible in the center of the square. On one side of the square is a city landmark called the Torre del Reloj or the 'Clock Tower.' The clock was designed by Caldas himself and was constructed in Croydon, England before being shipped to Colombia. A few doors down from the Torre del Reloj is the city's Cathedral, which was badly damaged during the major earthquake that almost destroyed the whole city on March 31, 1983. The city took almost 20 years to fully recover from the quake but the vast majority of the buildings in the white colonial centre have now been restored to their former glory.
As for government buildings the Gobernacion and the Universidad del Cauca have excellent colonial premises.
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Puente del Humilladero
address: Carrera 6 and Calle 2Another architectural site which is a long walking bridge over a river in Popayan that was constructed in old Roman style. -
El Morro de Tulcán
address: Calle 7 and Carrera 2a hill which was an Indian pyramid dating before 1535. On the top of the hill there is a statue dedicated to the Conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar which founded the Spanish establishment of Popayán. The top offers a perfect view of the city and during week-end, a crowd is there to enjoy the sunset.
Do
Learn
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address: Calle 5 and Carrera 5The University of Cauca has 9 faculties in which it provides undergraduate and graduate training in different areas of knowledge like Telecommunications, Civil Engineering, Human Sciences and Arts.
Buy
Eat
In 2005, Popayan became the first city to be designated a City of Gastronomy as part of the UNESCO Creative Cities initiative. For cheap and genuine food, try the market near Plaza Bolivar, north of the Puente del Humilladero. Meals from COP$5,000.
- Carantanta: A kind of chip typical from the Cauca departement made from corn, It can be eaten with a soup.
- Pipian: A sauce made from peanuts. Can be served with tamales or very small "empanadas", which are potato doughnuts.
- Champús: Drink made from crushed maize, in addition to panela, lulo, pineapple, cinnamon, cloves and leaves of the orange tree.
- Manjar Blanco or Payanés: a typical sweet cream made from milk, sugar and rice.
- Manjarillo: dulce de leche with panela (unrefined whole cane sugar).
- Dulce cortado de leche: another variation of dulce de leche with cloves and cinamon.
- Breva Calada: dessert made of figs cooked with panela served on top of white cheese. Usually made for Christmas.
- Helado de Paila: Ice cream made in a large shallow and heavy copper bowl.
- Envuelto: Corn cake wrapped in a plantain leef. Can be eaten with cheese.
- Rosquilla: the Popayan version of the donut.
Cuaresnor Pan Tolima
Vegetarian option:
El Muro
Real santo domingo
Cakes and more
Stay safe
Drink
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El Sotareño
address: Calle 6, 8-05A small and friendly bar with oldish music and good atmosphere.
Sleep
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phone: +57 311 626 8840address: Calle 4 #2-21Opened in October 2011, this is one of the most laid-back hostels in the city. It's in a beautiful 16th-century colonial building in the heart of the colonial centre. Offers: Free Wifi, Computers with internet, 24-hour access, kitchen, DVD room, Lockers with power sockets, lots of information on trips. The hostel also offers the best deals on long-stay rates.
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phone: +57 314 696 0805address: Carrera 11 #4-16The backpacker's choice in Popayan since 2006 and rated considered by the rough guide to be "one of the best hostels in the country..." with private and dorm rooms, the fastest broadband internet in the city, free Wi-Fi, Skype, DVD Collection, lockers with power points, hot water showers, laundry and self-catering kitchen and breakfast service. HostelTrail also runs most of the tours in Popayan including the downhill cycling trip to Coconuco. Wednesday night is curry night. COP$10,000 for a curry and a drink.
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phone: +57 3002496240,+57 3044011561address: Calle 5 #6-19This hostel is right in the center of Popayan, in the Prque Caldas. It is in a beautiful colonial building with amazing views to the Popayan main square. In the past few months the area has been reserved only for pedestrians so that tranquility is a guarantee. It's good karma and low prices have atracted many tourists trying to visit the city or its surroundings. The services include free Wi-Fi, laundry service, big common areas, and free use of the kitchen. The area is very close to several coffee shops, supermarkets and the main commercial street.
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Hotel Pass Home
phone: +57 8243725 (Landline), +57 3164489513, +57 3207355088 (Cellular Phones)address: Calle 5 #10-114This hotel is clean and the owners (Colombian family) are very friendly. If you need a place for a tent, you can pitch here as well for COP$10,000 and you can use the kitchen for free. Free WiFi. Private rooms have cable TV with 106 channels in English, German, French, Chinese, Spanish, etc. You can also purchase a breakfast, lunch, and dinner package with local Popayan cuisine for COP$10,000 per day. -
Residencial Florida
address: Carrera 6Very simple rooms with shared toilet/bathroom. -
address: Calle 4, between Carreras 10 and 11This is a city landmark in itself. It used to be a Monastery and it was converted into a very nice hotel. It is behind the Iglesia de San Jose. It is about 4 city blocks from the Parque de Caldas.
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phone: +57 2 824 3595address: Carrera 5 # 5-59This is a very good hotel in the city center. The food is unexpectedly sophisticated. The service is cordial, especially important for non-Spanish speaking guests. The decor reflects the Spanish influence, but makes you feel at home. The rooms are comfortable for the business traveler as well as for visiting families. Reasonably priced rooms in the heart of the city.
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phone: +57 92 8244853address: Carrera 5 No. 2-07This is a smallish family run hostel with an excellent location right inside the historical center. The family seems mostly indifferent, neither helpful or rude. It offers two hot showers, kitchen use (with a fee), laundry service and breakfast for COP$3,000. Price for a dormbed was COP$13,000 but has been rising.
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phone: +57 2 8243 197address: Calle 3 # 2 -37Once a family home, now attended by owner. Very convenient location in a quiet downtown street. Rooms are large, most with private bathroom. Back garden, small swimming pool. Check-in can be arranged for guest convenience.
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Coffee Break Hostel
address: Carrera 1 #3-27Hostel located in the university neighbor. The center is at a five minutes walk distance as well as other attractions. The staff is very friendly and will help you organize tours. Rooms are comfortable and clean. The common space is nice with hammocks and pizza oven. Large and clean kitchen with everything to cook. - There is a lot of budget accommodation in Carrera 6, just across the Puente del Humilladero, north of the Rio Molino.
Go next
- Coconuco, one hour from Popayan, this small town offers the Hirviendos hot springs. HostelTrail (see Sleep) also runs the most popular trip in Popayan which is a downhill cycling trip to Aguas Hirviendos. The tour leaves at 10PM from HostelTrail and returns at around 3-4PM in the afternoon.
- Puracé National Natural Park, a national park two hours from Popayan, where it is possible to trek to the top of the Purace volcano or look for Andean wildlife. The bus leaves for the park at 5am from the main station.
- Salvajina
- Silvia, about one hour from Popayan, in the land of the Guambiano Indians. There is a spectacular market there on Tuesdays.
- San Agustin, a small town with dozens of pre-Colombian statues, waterfalls and beautiful views can be reached in about 5 hours.