Prespa (Macedonia)

Prespa is a rural area of natural beauty and important history. Galičica National Park separates the region from Lake Ohrid. The villages on the western shore of Prespa slope upwards toward Galičica Mountain. On the eastern side, the villages slope upwards toward Baba Mountain in Pelister National Park. This means there are many beautiful vistas to be seen of the lake, regardless of where you find yourself. The views only get better the further up into the mountains you go.
This region's long history is evidenced by the archaeological sites found on the island of Golem Grad, as well as by the medieval churches and monasteries scattered around Prespa. The Ottoman history of Prespa is evident all over the area with the Ottoman-era village architecture visible in most every village.

People

The Prespa area consists of the villages of (from the west going clockwise around the lake): Konjsko, Stenje, Leskoec, Oteševo, Šurlenci, Volkoderi, Pokrvenik, Preljublje, Perovo, Drmeni, Ezerani, Podomočani, Grnčari, Rajca, Asamati, Kurbinovo, Pretor, Slivnica, Krani, Arvati, Štrbovo, Nakolec, Ljubojno, Brajčino, and Dolno Dupeni. Over 4,500 people live in these villages as of the last census.
Ethnic Macedonians form a large majority in the area (77%), but there is ethnic diversity in Prespa with Albanians forming 22% and Turks forming 1%. Arvati, Grnčari, Krani, and Nakolec have ethnic Albanian majorities. Further north of Prespa toward Resen are larger Turkish communities. The Macedonians are typically Orthodox Christians, while Albanians and Turks are largely Muslims. Unlike other parts of the country, there haven't been any inter-ethnic incidents in Prespa even at the height of tensions in 2001.
Prespa, like many rural regions in Macedonia, has suffered from youth migration to cities and foreign countries. The population in the last census is roughly half the 1981 number. Many villages have primarily elderly residents. In the summertime, the amount of people in the area increases with many people returning to homes that have been in their families for generations.

By car

There are three ways to get into the Prespa area via car from other parts of Macedonia, as well as neighbouring Albania (there is, unfortunately, no open border crossing with Greece within Prespa).

• Highway P504 splits off from P501, which runs north-south between Galičica and Lake Ohrid, near St Naum. P504 cuts across Galičica National Park connecting Lake Ohrid's eastern shore with Lake Prespa's western shore. There are a lot of twists and turns on this mountain road but the nature and views are spectacular.
• E-65 is a highway that runs east-west through Resen, north of Prespa. Road R1307 splits from the highway in the town of Resen and runs through the western side of Prespa to the Albanian border crossing. Road 1308 splits off from the highway west of Resen and runs south on the eastern side of Prespa all the way to the Greek border.
• One of Macedonia's four border crossings with Albania is located between the Macedonian village of Stenje and the Albanian village of Gorna Gorica.

By taxi

Cabs can be hired from Resen, Ohrid, or Bitola (or further beyond for higher prices). From Resen, fare to the furthest villages of Prepsa should be no more than 600 denars. From Ohrid or Bitola, travelling to Resen is up to 1,000 denars and then onwards to Prespa villages can be about another 700-1,000 denars (cab drivers will often factor in the cost of getting back to their home city in which they picked you up). Agree on the price before getting in the taxi.

By car

The best and most convenient way to get around Prespa is by car. This is a rural region with villages often spread quite far from each other. Exploring the mountainside in Brajčino in the morning, hitting the beach in Dolno Dupeni in the afternoon, and then dancing the night away at the nightclub in Krani is not possible to do unless you have a car at your disposal, even though these three villages are considered neighbours. Just getting to Krani's beach from the village centre of Krani is quite the hike.

By bus

A bus company out of the village of Arvati operates a small network of buses that run from the villages of Prespa up to Resen a couple times per day. Ask the locals for bus times. This is convenient if you need to make a stop in the town for certain purchases or to get to a certain village (if you have a ride back to your start). Fare is equivalent to about one Euro or less, depending on from where you get on the bus.

By thumb

Hitchhikers in Prespa, as in most of Macedonia, shouldn't have too much trouble hitching a ride. The biggest problem is picking a time of day where there simply aren't many cars passing by.

Aside from the natural scenery, the Prespa area is home to many historical sites. Golem Grad, often mistaken as the only island in the country, is certainly the most unique destination in the area.
Most of Prespa's villages are home to historic churches and monasteries, some standing since the Middle Ages; the more well-known ones are listed below. As most of the churches are locked much of the time, ask around in the respective village for a key if you wish to access the inside.

• Golem GradThe largest island in the country and the only one in Great Prespa Lake, Golem Grad is a part of Galičica National Park. It is located in the corner of Macedonia, a few kilometers from Greek and Albanian territory. It is accessible only via boat; small tour boats can usually be found in Konjsko or Stenje. The ride is shorter from Konjsko than Stenje (30 minutes vs. 90 minutes), but Konjsko itself is much more difficult to reach by car than Stenje. The island has an area of 20 hectares (50 acres) and is surrounded by caves and cliffs, the highest of which rises 50 m (164 ft) above the lake. Golem Grad is home to diverse flora and fauna. It used to be known for its snakes but it is much more of a sanctuary for birds. The island, uninhabited since the mid-20th century, is also home to many ruins of ancient settlements of varying condition. The archaeological sites include a Roman cistern, six churches, and multiple Roman and Hellenistic houses.

• Church of St PeterOne of several churches on the island but the only one completely standing, last renovated in 1934. It was built in 1360 under Serbian King Vukašin. It was built of brick and stone. The frescoes inside are not too well-preserved.

Ezerani Nature ParkCovering 1,916 hectares (4,734 acres), this protected area contains important ecosystems within the wetlands and meadows of the northern shore of Lake Prespa.

Podmočani Ethnological Museum

phone: +38975985313

This museum is located on the main road in Podmočani. It houses a rich collection of over 2,000 pieces of art, jewelry, weapons, coins, and over 160 traditional costumes from across Macedonia. The collection was started by villager Jone Evtimovski and it remains within his home to this day.

Prespa Cross & Church of Sts Peter and PaulThis small church was built in the 2000s atop a hill above Podmočani and the lake. A tall Christian cross, which is illuminated at night, was erected next to the church. The location of the cross and church offers spectacular views of the lake, the mountains, and the nearby plains.

Church of St GeorgeProbably the most important church in the Prespa region, the Church of St George was built in 1191. Located in the village of Kurbinovo, it has rather simple architecture and is one of the largest aisleless churches in Macedonia. It has frescoes both on the outside and the inside. The walls on the inside are covered in frescoes from top to bottom. These frescoes, in very good condition, are what make the church significant. The fresco of Archangel Gabriel is used on the Macedonian 50 denar banknote.

Slivnica MonasteryThis monastery complex contains one church dedicated to the Holy Mother of God. Located on the western slopes of Baba Mountain in a forested area, the monastery was built in the 17th century. The church has two main sections and a bell tower. The courtyard contains water believed to have healing abilities. Multiple sightings of the Virgin Mary have been reported at the monastery, most recently in 2006.

Monastery of St PetkaThis 15th century monastery contains a small church dedicated to St Petka. Though small, it has significant frescoes. The oldest of these are preserved on the east and west walls of the nave. The monastery sits in a flat area above the village.

The traditional architecture in Prespa is known throughout Macedonia and can be found in many of the area's villages, such as in Brajčino, Ljubojno, and Dolno Dupeni.

Beaches

Prespa is the second-most popular destination for beaches in the Republic of Macedonia after Lake Ohrid. Most of the beaches are sandy. They often have trendy names but Macedonians usually call the beaches by the name of the village in which they are located.

• Stenje BeachStenje's beach was updated in 2015 with modern facilities. It has multiple dining and bar options as well as a hotel and a church nearby. This beach is also the one located closest to its respective village in the Prespa area.

• Xotic BeachPerhaps the most popular beach in Prespa, this beach in Pretor and its surroundings provide the most amenities. This includes multiple restaurants, a hotel, a youth hostel, and a church.

• Connect BeachEasily one of the nicest beaches in the country, Connect Beach was established in 2016. This large beach contains a restaurant, a cafe, and a dock with additional seating. There are loungers, umbrellas, and cabanas placed all over the beach, though one must spend a minimum of 100 denars on drinks or food per person to use them. The beach itself is nice and sandy, but upon stepping in the water there are many sharp little rocks, so bring swim shoes.

• Krani BeachPart of the large Auto Camp Krani site, this beach has a playground, umbrellas, etc.

• Dupeni BeachLocated at Macedonia's southernmost point, at the border with Greece, this beach is south of the village of Dolno Dupeni. There are free umbrellas across the beach, but no chairs or loungers. The beach includes a couple of volleyball nets. The water here can be a little mucky at times. There is a cafe which sits at the entrance to the beach.

Events

Many villages in Prespa have an annual celebration of a particular saint's day, usually a saint to whom a church within the village is dedicated.

• St PetkaThis celebration is held on August 7th and 8th in honour of St Petka. On the evening of the 7th, villagers and visitors hike up to the Monastery of St Petka (described above in "See") and everyone is served a meal consisting of beans, cole slaw, and bread, free of charge. There is also some music and dancing in the courtyard of the monastery. The next evening, in the village centre, there is a live band playing traditional music and people dance the traditional oro dance. There are multiple vendors set up selling food, toys, and more.

• St Elijah's DayKruševo is the best-known location for celebrations of Ilinden, Macedonia's main national holiday celebrating the famous 10-day republic, on 2 August. Ljubojno, however, throws a popular celebration for the day. There is live music, food, dancing, and more.

• Vila Raskrsnica

  phone: +389 75 796 796
  Vila Raskrsnica is quite a gem. It sits in one of the most peaceful corners of Prespa, on a trail towards Pelister National Park, and has views of the lake. The interior is decorated wall-to-wall with traditional Macedonian objects. The restaurant is run by one villager who takes reservations based on what she can handle, so call ahead.

• Sunset Club Restaurant

  phone: +389 71 288 439
  Overlooks Pretor's beach. It has patio and indoor seating.

• Pizza Bar Pretor

  phone: +389 71 225 073
  On Pretor's beach. Serving pizza and other Italian dishes.

• Connect Beach RestaurantThe restaurant at Slivnica's new beach. It serves traditional skara (barbecue) and some other choices.

Any restaurant listed above is also a good place to go for drinks. In addition, every general store in Prespa sells beer, wine, or liquor that can be enjoyed with the locals on the seating outside the store.

• OazaFormerly located in Dolno Dupeni (where it was more popular), Oaza is a nightclub situated within Auto Camp Krani. It is only open in summer.

• Youth Hostel Prespa-Pretor

  phone: +389 47 480 218
  Situated steps away from the lake and close to Pretor's beach.

• Lakeview Hotel and Resort

  phone: +389 47 551 195
  This hotel has a private beach. It has a good amount of amenities and seems to offer new things every summer. It also contains a nice restaurant.

• Hotel Pretor

  phone: +389 47 480 003
  Located between the main road and Pretor's beach. It has 15 rooms and three apartments. It also has its own restaurant.

• Resen. You most likely passed through it on your way into Prespa but, if not, stop by and check out the historic Saraj estate.
• Pustec. Albania holds the southwestern portion of Lake Prespa and all of it falls within the Municipality of Pustec. There is a border crossing between Macedonia's Stenje and Albania's Gorna Gorica, making this a very do-able next stop on a tour of Prespa. There are plenty of natural and cultural attractions on this side of the border.
• Prespa (Greece). Though it sits just south of Dolno Dupeni, Greece's share of the Prespa region is not accessible from Macedonia's share of Prepa. One must go around Baba Mountain to the crossing between Bitola and Florina and drive southwest or cross into Albania from Stenje and then cross into Greece south of Small Prespa Lake. The trek, however, is worth it to see this often overlooked corner of Greece. There are many important churches as well as the island that was once the capital of Tsar Samuel's empire. Not to mention, more beautiful scenery.
• Just beyond the two national parks bordering the Prespa region are the Ohrid (to the west) and Bitola (to the east) areas. The former is a historic town listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the ancient lake on which it sits, and the latter is Macedonia's second-largest city that was once the capital of the Ottoman Empire's European territory.