Rome/Esquilino-San Giovanni
Esquilino is named for the Esquiline hill on which it stands. It lies south of the Termini station and centers more or less on the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II. It is now partly a Chinese immigrant neighborhood, and specialty groceries and shoe stores abound. (There is also still some disgruntled graffiti to be found lamenting this fact, such as "Esquilino - White and Catholic. Defend it with us."). San Giovanni is named after the Basilica, which is the parish church of Rome. The area is south-east of the Esquiline.
Get in
Metro Line A connects Termini station with the basilica of San Giovanni. There are also several buses from the downtown area, best caught at Piazza Venezia or by the Colosseum, where you can connect with Metro Line B.
See
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phone: +39 06483195address: Via Liberiana 27Built in the 9th century, this ancient basilica crowns the top of the Esquiline Hill. Tons of gold decorate the interior together with impressive mosaics (particularly when the floodlights are turned on), and there is a museum on the premises. If you are in Rome on Corpus Christi (Corpus Domini), which is the Thursday after the 8th Sunday after Easter, an early-evening service is held in San Giovanni by the Pope followed by a procession along Via Merulana to Santa Maria. Good opportunity for a close up view of the Pope.
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address: Via di S. PrassedeFantastic Byzantine mosaics and some other interesting artwork. Not to be missed.
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Santa Pudenziana
address: Via Urbana 160A very ancient church named after a saint who was in 1969 removed from the Roman Catholic calendar of saints for the lack of details of her life. But the church retains the name and is well worth visiting for an excellent 4th-century mosaic and attractive decorations on the facade. -
address: Piazza di San Giovanni LateranoThis is the cathedral church of Rome and first of the major basilicas. It's also the Pope's (as Bishop of Rome) Church. As such it ranks above all other churches in the Roman Catholic Church, even above St. Peter's. Be sure to check out the 4th-century baptistery (still in use - in Piazza di San Giovanni, slightly apart from the main basilica) and the medieval cloister (brilliant Cosmati columns)
Scala SanctaThe Scala Sancta (Holy Stairs) is, according to Roman Catholic tradition, the staircase used by Jesus Christ to approach Pontius Pilate to be sentenced to death. Attracts numerous pilgrims who climb the stairs on their knees.
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address: Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 12It was constructed to hold relics of the Passion of Jesus. They include two thorns of his crown, part of a nail and three small wooden pieces of the Cross. The authenticity of these relics is much disputed, however.
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National Museum of Musical Instruments
address: Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 9/ANext door to Santa Croce. A collection of around 3000 pieces, although only a third of these are displayed. -
address: Via Tasso 145This small museum records the liberation of Rome from German occupation during the Second World War. During the occupation the building was used as a prison. Stair lifts and chair lifts available for wheelchair users (call ahead).
Do
Buy
Mercato EsquilinoAn indoor market of ancient provenance that has moved from its longtime outdoor home all the way round the outside of Piazza Vittorio; it is still only a couple of blocks east of the piazza. The mercato is divided into a food section, with good and cheap produce, meat, and fish, and a clothing section, with clothes of all kinds, shoes, luggage, etc., at low prices and generally not fabulous quality. Get there in the morning for food; it's generally closed by afternoon.
Eat
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phone: +39 06 4464740address: Via Principe Eugenio 65Ice cream: not as marvelous as Giolitti or San Crispino but still worth trying. Prices are reasonable, quality good. Old ice cream making equipment on display.
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address: via Machiavelli 5Good value Sardinian fish restaurant. Seafood antipasto, three pasta dishes, grilled fish and dessert for around Euros 40. Don't try to order, just let them bring it to your table. Excellent Sardinian wines extra.
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address: Via Merulana 54Very upmarket (with matching prices) baker. Great window displays but you may find the taste doesn't match the appearance.
Drink
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address: Via dell’ OlmataThe oldest Irish pub.
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Druid’s Den
address: Via San Martino ai Monti 28 -
address: Piazza Esquilino 1The sister pub of the Druid’s Den.
Sleep
Budget
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phone: +39 3494232501address: Via Filippo Turati 102Double, triple and quadruple bedrooms, all rooms with free wifi.
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phone: +39 06 89531043address: Via Principe Amadeo 92 (int.9)Single, double, triple and quadruple bedrooms. Rates do not include breakfast.
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phone: +39 3923009331address: Via Giolitti 119Bathroom ensuite, free Wi-Fi, air conditioning. Breakfast included.
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phone: +39 06 77590702address: Via Giovanni Giolitti, 415Two star accommodation with private bathrooms and a breakfast hall, located south of Termini and two metro stops from San Giovanni.
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phone: +39 06 446 7202address: Via Buonarroti, 51Three stars hotel with private bathrooms and breakfast service, free wi-fi. It's near of Termini Station and the metro A stop.
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phone: +39 06 4464754address: Via Principe Eugenio, 51Large two-star hotel of with 51 bedrooms divided in single, double, twin and triple. All rooom with private bath, flat screen TV and air conditioning.
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phone: +39 06 4470 4592address: Via Carlo Cattaneo 23, 1st Floor,A new dorm style hostel situated just in a 5 minute walking distance from Rome’s central station Termini. The hostel is designed for budget minded backpackers and offers clean and large rooms with a variety of services for backpackers.
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phone: +39 06 89531043address: Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, 12Three bedrooms divided in double and twin with en-suites services, shower, television and air conditioning. Also available a common kitchen.
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phone: +39 06 99 33 03 74address: Via Daniele Manin 69, 00185 Rome, ItalyStylish single, double and triple bedrooms, all with en-suite bathroom, air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, etc.
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phone: +39 338 4280189address: Via Rattazzi, 63Located in the immediate neighborhood of Termini station, it is very easy to reach regardless whether you arrive in Rome by train or by plane.
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El Trotamundo Bed and Breakfast
phone: +39 3284488346address: Via del Pigneto 3 -
phone: +39 064880151address: Via Principe Amedeo 47All double rooms with ensuite bathroom, free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, chromatic shower, flat TV, safe lock and minibar. Breakfast included.
Mid-range
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phone: +39 06-770121address: Via Emanuele Filiberto 173Housed in a modern building in very a central position. Wifi, Pay and sat TV are among each bedroom facilities.
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address: Via Angelo Poliziano, 75,On a quiet side street. 10-minute stroll to the Colosseum through the Colli Oppio park.
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phone: +39 06 4467264address: Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 105 00185, Rome, ItalyFour-star hotel, 75 rooms with private bathrooms, bar and restaurant, free internet WI-FI, transfer from Airports, located in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, in the middle of Rione Esquilino, one metro stop from Termini Station and from San Giovanni.
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phone: +39 3284488346address: Via del Pigneto 3Private bathroom, free Wi-Fi, air conditioning. Kitchen use. Internet point. Breakfast included.
Splurge
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phone: +39 06 444 841address: Via Filippo Turati, 171 IT-00185This hotel on Esquiline Hill has 232 rooms.
Go next
- Rome/Nomentano — for the nearby Porta Maggiore