Rome/Trastevere

By train

Trains (marked regionale, not the express to Termini) from Leonardo da Vinci airport stop at Trastevere Railway station. Then hop on tram n° 8.

By tram

Tram n° 8 from Piazza Argentina is a nice tram for the short distance from close to the Pantheon to Trastevere. It runs frequently but unless you have luggage Trastevere is close enough to walk.

By bus

• Night Bus n° 8
• Bus n° H from Stazione Termini (the main train station)

By car

Cars of non-residents of Trastevere are not permitted to park there after dark so you'll have to park close and walk if you're going by car. Beware that on weekends or on any warm evening parking can involve driving round in circles for a long time looking for a place.

• San Crisogono

  phone: +39 065818225
  address: Piazza Sonnino 40

• Casa della Fornarina

  address: Via di Santa Dorotea 20
  There is little information available on Raphael's mistress La Fornarina. Margherita was the daughter of a baker from Siena. His shop was near Villa Farnesina where Raphael was painting. It is reported that Raphael repudiated her on his death bed as he wanted to be redeemed from his sins. Four months after his death Margherita joined the monastery Santa Apollonia in Trastevere. It is said that she was model for Raphael's portrait La Donna Velata.

• Ponte SistoPope Sixtus IV della Rovere (1471-1481) gave order to replace the old Roman bridge by a new one. It was Pope Sixtus IV who also ordered the Sistine Chapel and the Opsedale di Santo Spirito to be built. So he ran out of money. He levied a tax on prostitution in order to gain money for the construction of the Ponte Sisto.

• Santa Maria in Trastevere

  phone: +39 06 581 4802
  address: Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
  One of the oldest churches in the city. The nave is lined with a mismatched collection of columns taken from ancient Roman buildings. The apse is covered in gold mosaics from the 13th century, arguably the finest mosaics in the city. Impressive mosaics also on the front. According to legend the church was founded in 222, so it would be one of the most ancient churches in the city. Written records mention a church on this place in 337. What is visible today was built in the 12th century, by order of Pope Innocent III. The facade is decorated with mosaics representing the Virgin Mary and ten unidentified figures. Most probably these mosaics are the work of Petro Cavallini who created the mosaics of the lower apse dated 1290 representing scenes from the life of Mary. The mosaics of the upper apse in byzantine style are even older and date from 1140. The columns of the nave originate from the ancient Baths of Caracalla. The facade of Santa Maria in Trastevere is even more impressive at night when it is illuminated.

• Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

  phone: +39 06 589 9289
  address: Piazza di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
  Very ornately done and beautiful inside, but don't expect any information in English. All information panels are only in Italian. It's still a beautiful site though even if you don't read Italian. According to tradition St.Cecily suffered a particular cruel death as a martyr. She was scalded, suffocated and beheaded by three strokes on her neck. As she was singing all the time during her martyrdom she is considered the patron of music. The building of today shows a mixture of various styles, from the porticus of the 12th cent. to the 18th cent. facade.

• San Francesco a Ripa

  address: Piazza S.Francesco d'Assisi
  Named after St. Francis of Assisi, who stayed nearby. Inside the Paluzzi-Albertoni chapel is one of Bernini’s masterpieces, the statue of the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni. The column in front of the church comes from the ruins of Veii (see Rome/North).

• Isola TiberinaThis is the island located in the middle of the Tiber River (Il Fiume Tevere) that separates Central Rome and Trastevere. It boasts both a major hospital, called Fatebenefratelli, and a small synagogue that was secretly used in the Second World War when Rome's main synagogue nearby was closed down. It also has a café and gelateria on the Rome side. It is a nice way of getting to and from Trastevere. Be sure to get photos from Ponte Garibaldi as Isola Tiberina truly is beautiful. The island is 270 m long and up to 67 m broad. According to the legend envoys were sent to the temple of Asklepius in Epidauros in Greece in 291BC in order to get relief from an epidemic in Rome. The envoys brought one of the holy snakes back with them. The snake swam to the Tiber Island thus determining the place where a temple for Asklepius was built. The successor of the Asklepius sanctuary is the Church San Bartolomeo which was built by the German Emperor Otto III around the year 1000. The Ponte Rotto is what is left from the ancient Pons Aemilius, the oldest stone bridge over the Tiber erected around 180 BC. The bridge was partly destroyed during a flood in 1557, re-erected by Pope Gregor XIII and finally pulled down in 1598. In 62 BC the Senatorial road construction office replaced the wooden footbridge by the Ponte Fabricio.

• Villa Farnesina

  phone: +39 06 6802 7268
  address: Via della Lungara 230
  Delightful Renaissance house that was built by a rich banker from Siena, Agostino Chigi. In 1577 it was bought by the Farnese family and has since been known as Villa Farnesina. At one time there were plans by Michelangelo to build a bridge over the river to connect the villa with Palazzo Farnese on the other side. You can tour several beautiful rooms that are all decorated with frescoes, including some by Raphael. Particularly entertaining is the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, the former entrance hall, in which nearly every person represented is without clothes.

• National Gallery of Ancient Art

  phone: +39 06 68802323
  address: Via della Lungara 10
  housed in the baroque palace Corsini where Christina, Queen of Sweden settled down in the last years of her life

• Orto Botanico dell'Università di Roma "La Sapienza"

  phone: +39 0649917107
  address: Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24
  This garden was originally established in 1883. It has over 3,500 species of plants and includes a "Scent-and-Touch" garden for those who are visually impaired.

• Museum of Rome in Trastevere

  phone: +39 06 0608 (daily 09:00-19:00)
  address: Piazza Sant'Egidio 1/b
  Permanent collection features paintings and drawings of Rome between the 18th and 20th centuries together with a fascinating black and white photo exhibition of Rome from 1950-80. Also offers rotating exhibitions, usually of the work of photographers.

The Janiculum

• Il GianicoloThis is not, contrary to popular belief, one of the original seven hills that Rome was founded on. It is the second highest after Monte Mario, though, and offers incredible panoramic views of the city as long as the authorities remember to prune the trees on the hillside (if they are too tall you can walk a few meters down the hill for views that are just as good). On the other side of the piazza there is also a nice view of the dome of St. Peter's. The Piazza and the street leading up the hill are dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi who led Italian troops against the French here in 1849. There are also several commemorative statues.

• San Pietro in MontorioThis church, which was commissioned by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, marks the point where, according to tradition, St. Peter was crucified. Particularly interesting for Irish visitors as it contains the graves of three Gaelic Chiefs who fled Ireland in 1607.

• The TempiettoDesigned by Bramante to mark the spot of St. Peter's martyrdom, this delightful miniature building is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture.

• Fontana dell'Acqua PaolaThis massive early 17th Century Baroque fountain was built to celebrate the re-opening of an old Roman aqueduct. Water played an important role in this area in Roman times as the grain was milled here using water mills.

• Manfredi LighthouseStrange to see a lighthouse on top of a hill. This was built in 1911 and was a gift to the city from Italians living in Argentina. From here you can continue down the hill, past Rome's largest and Italy's most important children's hospital, Bambino Gesu, eventually arriving at the River Tiber close to the Vatican.

• Get lost in TrastevereThe cobbled streets are narrow and winding and random but losing your way will lead you to places you might not otherwise find. Note that the cobblestone streets (locally called sampietrini) are being paved elsewhere in Rome as the vibrations from cars driving over them have been found to lead to cracking in the foundations of many of the monuments and historic sites around the city. The sampietrini are mostly being left alone in Trastevere though.

• Piazza S. Maria in TrastevereBeautiful place to hang around and watch people going by, as well as the many buskers usually found in the square. Join the students sitting on the steps of the fountain or, if you can afford it, have a drink or meal at one of the restaurants and bars on two sides of the square.

• Big Mama

  address: Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18
  Rome’s original "House of the Blues". Has been going strong for 25 years. Italian and international artists, with blues and jazz concerts.

• Viale di Trastevere, from the start of this 2.5km long street at Ponte Garibaldi (in the North) and all the way to the Trastevere Train Station (in the South) you can find stands selling fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers, clothing, accessories (such as knock-off designer purses and wallets) and a number of other things.

• Porta PorteseOn Sunday mornings there is a huge flea market. It extends from Porta Portese to Viale di Trastevere.

• Frengo's music

  phone: +39 06 5833 2402
  address: Via della Lungaretta, 65
  One of the few CD shops in the center of Rome still run by a music lover instead of a shop assistant in a franchising chain. You can find a nice selection of CDs, DVDs, Console games and Dolby Surround home stereos.

Trastevere is the best place in city to get great Italian food at reasonable prices. There are dozens of quality restaurants in this area. A few are listed below; prices for a pizza or pasta dish with some wine or beer and bruschetta are around €12-15 and should not exceed €20 per person, though if you want to spend more you certainly have the option. Restaurants tend to open much earlier here than in other parts of Rome, mainly to cater to tourists as no self-respecting Roman would go out for dinner before 8PM.

• Ai Bozzi

  phone: +39 06 58 16 640
  address: Piazza Giuditta Tavani Arquati 107
  Italian restaurant with excellent food and professional service. Traditional dishes as well innovative variations (try the fettuccine with artichokes and guanciale). Pizza is also served in the evening. Lovely outside terrace overlooking the piazza.

• Augusto

  phone: +39 06 580 3798
  address: Piazza de' Renzi, 15
  A small osteria in the heart of Trastevere. Authentic non-touristic Roman restaurant serving classic Roman dishes, hand-made desserts and wine. It's a good idea to phone ahead to see if they have room because this small place fills up fast every night, although if you don't mind waiting they'll squeeze you in if they can. They do not take reservations.

• Fior di luna

  phone: +39 06 6456 1314
  address: Via della Lungaretta 96
  Very good ice cream and made from Fair Trade products by an ice cream artist with a passion for taste.

• Glass Hostaria

  phone: +39 06 5833 5903
  address: Vicolo del Cinque 58
  Uber-modern trattoria.

• Il Conte Tacchia

  phone: +39 06 581 3189
  address: Vicolo del Bologna 87
  Roman cuisine at dinner.

• Ivo a Trastevere

  phone: +39 06 581 7082
  address: Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 158
  Get here early if you want a table without a wait. Very popular pizzeria that attracts lengthy queues of young Romans, so it must be good.

• La Fraschetta

  address: Via San Francisco a Ripa
  Reputed to have the best gnocchi in the city, but it's only offered on Thursday nights. They offer 4 different sauces with gnocchi, and if you like cheese the best bet is gorgonzola. If you want to go on a Thursday, go early because by 9PM, the normal time to arrive at a restaurant in Rome, it will be packed.

• La Gattabuia

  phone: +39 06 584813
  address: Via Del Porto 1
  Serves pizza, pasta and steak. Great atmosphere and friendly staff. Unique location and décor.

• Osteria dell'Aquila

  phone: +39 06 5810924
  address: Via Natale del Grande 52/53
  Mediterranean style restaurant. Menu is in Italian and English, and the waiters speak both languages. Open for lunch and dinner. The meals here are excellent and at very good prices. Make sure to try the seafood appetizers.

• Osteria der BelliRun by four brothers from Sardinia. Particularly recommended for its seafood dishes.

• Pizzeria Nick & Tony

  address: Via di San Francesco a Ripa 21
  Great little pizzeria run by 2 friendly Neapolitan brothers. You can get a big slice and a huge ice cold beer for €5. The place gets full of locals. That should tell you everything. get there quite early as in the evening they have a few pizzas left, most popular time is around lunch and after school. Also note that the street Via di San Francesco a Ripa has a strange numbering system - odd and even numbers are on the same side of the street so no 21 will be between 20 and 22.

• Planet Kebab

  phone: +39 06 581 9863
  address: Via Natale del Grande, 17
  Good Turkish food, from Kebab to Falafel. This place is very clean, and the guys working there are very friendly. They claim to be open every day of the year.

• San Calistus

  address: Via San Francesco a Ripa, 9
  One of the best pizzerias in all of Rome.

• Taverna Mercanti

  phone: +39 06 5881693
  address: Piazza de Mercanti 3/a
  On the other side of Viale Trastevere from most of the other restaurants. Hard to find but well worth it for perhaps the best dining experience in Rome. In the summer months you can sit outdoors. Inside it resembles a hugely atmospheric medieval barn. Pizza is the best choice here though there are other options.

• Tony's

  address: Via della Cinque
  On a beautiful old Roman laneway with indoor and outdoor seating. One of the best lasagne in the city as well as plenty of pasta, meat and seafood options. Risotto alla pescatora (seafood risotto) is delicious; don't ask for the fish if you can't get a quicky mortgage to pay for it. Prices bear no relation whatsoever to the menu.

• Trattoria de Gli Amici

  phone: +39 06 580 6033
  address: Piazza Sant'Egidio 6
  Very interesting place in the heart of Trastevere district. Run by very kind handicapped people, it has nice cuisine.

• Vincenzo alla Lungaretta

  phone: +39 06 580 0345
  address: Via della Lungaretta 170/173
  Out of the way. Great food and great service and a very reasonable price.

• Vivi Bistrot

  phone: +39 06 582 7540
  address: Via Vitellia, 102
  Suitable for children as well. Useful for arranging a picnic in the park.

• Enoteca Ferrara

  address: Piazza Trilussa 41

• Vizi Capitali

  address: Via della Renella 94

• Sora Lella

  phone: +39 066861601
  address: Via di Ponte Quattro Capi 16

• Corsetti 1921

  phone: +39 065816311
  address: Piazza San Cosimato 27

• Sala di Tè Trasté

  phone: +39 065894430
  address: Via della Lungaretta 76
  for tea and cakes

• Baccanale

  address: Via della Lungaretta
  A small bar with a great range of drinks, friendly staff and a manic display of cocktail making later on in the evening. There are several TV screens showing major sporting events. Probably the best bar in the world considering it's location and stereotypical perfection. The staff are very welcoming to tourists. It is a secret that you'll be lucky to find in the narrow, winding streets of Trastevere.

• Garbo

  phone: +39 06 581 6700
  address: Vicolo di Santa Margherita 1a.
  This is a very small gay bar located in an area not catering much to those seeking gay nightlife. The décor is fun and the staff are very nice. Drinks are good, but expensive. As it is small it can get crowded. In spite of this it's best to visit Garbo when you've had enough of Coming Out (Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 8 - by the Colosseum) or the more intense Muccassassina (Via del Comercio, 32) and are seeking a more relaxed and casual come down from your night out. They are open later than most of the other gay bars.

Budget

• Bed and Breakfast Interno 9 Rome

  phone: +39 338 343 6365, +39 347 344 7399
  address: Via Enrico Fermi 15
  Bed and breakfast with single and double bedrooms and one apartment to accommodate 4-6 people. Some bedrooms have a shared shower. Breakfast is included. Also available: a well equipped kitchen.

• Hotel Cisterna Rome

  phone: +39 06 581 7212
  address: Viale della Cisterna, 7
  2 star hotel with 24 hr reception. 20 rooms, All equipped with modern services and private bathrooms. Bookable online.

• Beyond Apartments

  phone: +39 3400086085
  address: Vicolo del Bologna 31a

• Roma Trasteverina B&B

  phone: +39 320 617 3754
  address: Via Luigi Santini 21

• Relais Rome Sweet Home Trastevere

  phone: +39 06 8376 7113
  address: Viale Trastevere, 70
  Small hotel with 4 rooms. All equipped with satTV, Wi-Fi and private bathrooms. Online booking.

• Trastevere Feltre1

  phone: +39 335 582 2564
  address: Largo Bernardino da Feltre 1
  Small design B&B with 3 rooms. All equipped with satTV and beautiful view.

Mid-range

• Arco dei Tolomei

  phone: +39 06 5832 0819
  address: Via dell'Arco dei Tolomei 27
  All the rooms come with private bath and shower.

• Grand Hotel Gianicolo Rome

  phone: +39 06 58333405
  address: Viale delle Mura Gianicolense 107
  Four star accommodation with twin, double with jacuzzi, triple and dus (double for single use). All with private bath and shower. Swimming pool, a private garden and a fantastic panoramic view of Rome.

• Hotel Santa Maria

  address: Vicolo del Piede 2
  Gated hotel just off Piazza Santa Maria. Comfortable and has a nice courtyard.

• Hotel Villa della Fonte

  phone: +39 06 580 3797
  address: Via della Fonte d'Olio 8
  Small hotel, all rooms have a private bath, free Wi-Fi, satelliteTV and A/C.

• Villa Magnolia Relais

  phone: +39 06 2038 2872
  address: Via delle Fornaci, 439
  Tranquil garden hotel with 5 rooms and 1 apartment, en-suite bathrooms, Wi-Fi, A/C and secure parking.

• WRH Trastevere

  phone: +39 06 580 6344
  address: Via di San Crisogono, 40
  Friendly modern & minimalist guesthouse.

Splurge

• Ripa Hotel

  phone: +39 06 58611
  address: Via degli Orti di Trastevere 3
  Colourful hotel with 170 modern and stylishly designed rooms and suites, fitness and meeting facilities.

• Trilussa Palace

  phone: +39 06 5881963
  address: Piazza Nevio 27/28

• Rome/North — contains the nearby Villa Doria Pamphili inside a large park