Samothraki (population: 2,859 in 2011) is a small island that is basically the conical tip of a mountain rising out of the sea. There are two main towns; Kamariotissa and Chora; between them they provide most of the facilities one small town would normally have. There are two campsites. The island is surprisingly lush and green for an Agean Island, due to the rainfall caused by the central mount 'fengari'. The goat population (estimated at approx 100,000) outnumbers the inhabitants by 33 goats to every person.
Because the land rises steeply out of the sea, there are not many large beaches with the possible exception of the beach known as 'Fat Sand' which is located at the far end of the island from the main centers.
Samothraki is an ideal place for a rural retreat, it is very unsophisticated and lacks almost all tourist infrastructure (there is no nightlife, except during the annual music festival). The inhabitants are extremely warm, friendly people who will go out of their way to make you feel welcome.
It is the location of an annual (Greek) music festival.
By ferryThere is ferry service from Alexandroupolis run by Saos Ferries. The crossing takes 2½ hours. There is no ferry connection with Kavala or nearby islands.
For sailing boats only the harbour of Kamariotissa is deep enough but in several nice bays it is possible to anchor too, e.g. Pachia Ammos.
There are buses connecting the different locations but it is advisable to rent a car or motorbike in Kamariotissa because its very time consuming to reach most places by public transport.
Sanctuary of the Great GodsMajor archeological site of the centre of a mystery cult that rivaled Delphi, dating back to the pre-Greek period (Bronze Age). Numerous famous ancient people were initiates, including the historian Herodotus – one of very few authors to have left behind a few clues to the nature of the mysteries - the Spartan leader Lysander, and numerous Athenians. The original Sanctuary had suffered from earthquakes and pirate attacks. It was rebuilt several times and only abandoned after the Romans introduced Christianity as the official religion. In modern times, one can see remains from all eras, including the Hellenistic and Roman. There is also a small, excellent museum, with a plaster cast of the famous 'Winged Victory of Samothrace' statue, a consolation that the original was looted from the site on 1863 and is now at the Louvre in Paris. Much of the "Sanctuary of the Great Gods", at Paleopoli is forfeited, but the location in a wooded gorge is spectacular. There are also remains of a Byzantine fortress, which was built with the old stones of the sanctuary. The round building that once stood here, the Arsinoeion, was built 285 on behalf of Queen Arsinoe of Thrace. It was the biggest round building that was ever built in ancient Greece and was a place held at the victims. The so-called Hieron is the most striking ruin on the site, because of the columns that were built back in 1956.
KamariotissaKamariotissa, where the ferries arrive, is located on the west side of the island and is surrounded by hills with grass and some trees and with the high barren mountain Fengari (1660 m) as background. Kamariotissa is pretty green and there are several restaurants, coffee shops, banks, post office, supermarket, bakery, greengrocer, pharmacy, a ticket booth for the ferries. Directly at the promenade there are 2 rental companies for motor scooters and cars. The only gas station of the island is on the road from Kamariotissa to Chora. In the small waterfront park is the bus station. Its also the center of “nightlife” in low season.
ChoraThe capital of the island is Chora (Samothrace), about 5 km east of Kamariotissa. Worth seeing are the small and tightly packed houses. Chora is located at the foot of a hill, almost invisible from the sea. It was built hidden to be protected from pirate attacks from the sea in the Middle Ages. The village with its narrow, winding streets and its Genoese fortress (the original was Byzantine) is the most beautiful village of the island. From the large, central square, where you will find a few taverns, there is a beautiful view over the sea. Somewhat further down the village is Palaiopoli with its characteristic three towers from the 15th century.
ThermaTherma is also one of the attractions of Samothrace. Especially in high season it is flooded by young people who camp in one of the camping sites there. The village is in the north of the island 13 km from Kamariotissa in a forest of trees (a bus twice a day). There are healing hot springs with different temperatures for bathing, commercial with massages etc. but also an outdoor pool "for free" (most romantic at night with stars). The pool is somewhat hidden, so ask locals. Coming from the beach, turn right directly in front of the bathing house and follow the dirt road about 200 m to the basins with warm water and sea views. Therma is a small village with few inhabitants, but there are some shops, restaurants and accommodation. East of the village there are also two campsites. The village is situated on a pebble beach with clear water and a small port, from where in high season one can make highly recommended boat trips. Few km from Thermia are the natural basins of the creek Platia (Kria Vathra) and Tsumar (Mikres Vathres). Although the walk to the pools is not difficult its better to wear sport shoes than sandles. Both basins are not deep enough for swimming but enough for refershing. Its the beautiful landscape that makes it worth to go there. If you follow the path from Kria Vathra further up, you reach five more pools. The first one comes in about 10 minutes easy footpath. The next 4 pools are also easily accessible, the last difficult. From the parking lot to the sixth pool you need about 1 hour. Therma is the best place from where you can take walks to the mountain Fengari, composed mainly of granite. The path to the summit and back takes about six hours. A longer but easier route to the summit leads up from the village of Profitis Ilias in the south of the island.
Fonias PoolsEast of Therma, are the cold pools and waterfalls of the river Fonias. You can walk from the car park near to the bridge on the main road in about 45 minutes (5 km) along the Fonias Gorge to the first and most beautiful pool with a 12-m waterfall (signposted). Caution and good shoes are recommended. There are 2 more nice pools and waterfalls uphill, surrounded by impressive scenery. The 2nd pool is about 1 hour, the 3rd pool about 2 hours from the parking lot. The passages, especially to the third pool have a high degree of difficulty and are only partially marked by red dots on stones or trees. Especially on the way to the third pool, it always comes back to accidents. Since there is no mobile reception in case of an accident you will rely on another person to get help. Therefore you should never go the way alone! For a reason the stream carries the name “Killer”. As a reward for the climbing, you will be in an almost untouched natural landscape and you can refresh yourself from the strenuous hike with a bath in natural water basins at waterfalls. Most visitors are bathing naked! Bathing here is an ice cold and somewhat eerie pleasure. Near the mouth of Fonia flux there is the Fonias tower which stands on the seafront and is well worth a visit.
Ano MeridaSettlement in a remarkable landscape with plane trees and oak trees. A tavern, 1 km above Ano Merida, has good panoramic views of the countryside.
Profit IliasLakoma and Profit Ilias are simple, beautifully situated mountain villages with good tavernas, where you can enjoy particularly good goat dishes with a view of the south coast.
Chapell Panagia KrimniotissaAbove the beach of Pachia Ammos is the chapel "Panagia Krimniotisa" that should be visited for its magnificent views. The turnoff to the dirt road to the church is signposted and is located on the hill before it goes downhill to the beach. A simple restaurant at the foot of the church offers local food specialities and is highly recommended for lunch time. On the shaded terrace of the restaurant you have a wonderful view over the south coast and the beach. Usually a cooling breeze blows and makes the stay particularly pleasant in the hot summer. It is a "must see" location on Samothrace!
Pachia Amos BeachThe best beach on the island of Samothrace is the "Pachia Ammos Beach". This beach is located in the south of the island, about 15 km from Kamariotissa and is accessible by bus too. Pachia Ammos is located between two rocks, and is about 800 m long. It's a sandy beach, or rather fine gravel beach. During high season there is a tavern and a beach bar and there are rental chairs and umbrellas. Eastwards of Pachia Ammos there are three more beautiful secluded bays, used primarily as nudist beaches, but are difficult to reach. At the Pachia Ammo beach you meet most times fishermen with their boats. On request you can hire them to take you to one of the secluded bays. It is important to take the mobile numbers of the fishermen so that they can pick you up again. Camping supplies, food, water, garbage bags, etc. you have to take with you since these are lonely bays. For naked campers, Vatos Beach, with its dry river valley, is specially popular. You can also reach the beach by foot along a marked path in 1-2 hours from above the Pachia Amos beach
Vatos BeachBeautiful beach with sand and pebbles at the mouth of the Vatos gorge. There is no road connection. You can reach the beach either by boat or on foot after a difficult path through rocks. It's an excellent nudist beach, as are the bays to the east of Vatos Beach which are difficult to reach too.
Therma BeachOne of the most popular beaches on the north side with a beautiful beach bar, sun beds and umbrellas next to the small fishing port of Therma
Kipos BeachAnother "popular" beach on the east side of Samothrace, about 18 km from Therma. This pebble beach is about a kilometer long and a destination for naturists (unofficial nudist beach). Kipos Beach is also accessible by bus. Along the South coast there are a number of other smaller beaches (as Vatos beach), but which are difficult to reach. All other beaches along the coast are often coarse gravel beaches. Many of them are quite lonely outside high season and suitable for nudism.
There are many more beautiful beaches to explore. Since most of them are coarse gravel beaches, you should take umbrellas and beach loungers, or camping chairs. Lying down on a pebble beach with only a towel is uncomfortable.
- Swim in the waterfalls and pools of the river Fonias, affectionately called 'the murderer' "Phonias" (Greek: Φονιάς) (avoid it when it might rain for obvious reasons). There are more pools upstream if someone is willing to do some climbing.
- Visit the hot spring/baths at Loutra.
- Swim at the sea. There are 2 excellent beaches, in the west and east end of the island. The road running across the island is ending on both of them.
- Visit the Sanctuary of the Great Gods and the Ancient City
It can be difficult getting the bank to part with any cash on the island, make sure you have enough for a while as few places take cards or travellers cheques.
Tavern 1900Good traditional food in Chora, friendly staff, good prices, nice view.
The AlleyGood food and prices in Chora with a special traditional ambience.
PhournéloGood pizzeria in Kamariotissa directly on the sea.
Samothraki MicrobreweryMicrobrewery in Kamariotissa, Fonias Beer.
O Psaras Fish TavernTavern towards Paleopolis on the main road in the shade under large trees.
Cafe ThermaSimple kafeneio, very nice location, simple dishes (pies).
The Garden of SkyTraditional Greek tavern in Therma with good food.
Taverna KarydiesThe island's best known restaurant with excellent goat and lamb dishes at Apo Merida. Nice environment in the mountains. Very busy in high season.
O WrachosVery well-known tavern in Profitis Ilias with good food, especially goat. Shady places under plane trees. Very busy in high season.
Akrogiali TavernaGood fish restaurant with sea view on the beach of Lakoma.
Pachia Ammos RestaurantVery nice restaurant overlooking the Pachia Ammos beach.
Krimniotissa RestaurantSimple but beautifully located restaurant high on the mountain next to the chapel of the same name overlooking the Pachia Ammos bay.
NightlifeSamothrace is a quiet island and there is no real nightlife. Only in Kamariotissa and Chora there is a touch of nightlife in the restaurants and kafeneios. In high season, when a lot of young people visit the island, Therma becomes the center of nightlife, especially the beach bar Saoki next to the small harbor.
RetsinaSeriously it is one of those drinks that tastes fantastic in its native environment but doesn't travel at all.
Outside of hotels, you have three options.
- 1 Camp. There are 2 campings, both run by the municipality. Rough camping near the river was common (illegal).
- 2 Rent an apartment or house (best done beforehand but possible by asking in a bar or cafe.
- 3 Stay in a domatia, best done by asking someone when you get there. For those unfamiliar with Greek accommodation, domatia are rented rooms, sometimes adjoining locals' houses, sometimes in separate buildings. A word of warning, the accommodation in the delightful old town or chora is fairly limited and one woman called Chrisoula seems to have appointed herself unofficial co-ordinator of accommodation. She has two rooms that are small but cosy and are worth the cost, if you want more than two, beware offers of a third or fourth they will be on her sofas in her small living room. You will know her if she comes to greet you as you enter the town.